or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › My First Ever DIY Sub
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

My First Ever DIY Sub - Page 6

post #151 of 233
I'd try running the cable through your HTS2000 first. It shouldn't degrade the picture quality. If that doesn't work you can try an isolation transformer for the cable TV line.
post #152 of 233

Things you can try that might help Hummmmm

 

  • Plug everything including sub into same outlet.
  • Try plugging sub into completely different circuit(different room) just to see if helps, not a solution.
  • Double check Grounding on Cable wire where it enters your home.
  • Make sure RG6 is grounded to only one earth ground where comes into house.
  • If your RG6 has a ground wire and your power conditioner has a ground lug on back attach it there.
post #153 of 233
Thread Starter 
Got my sub operational. It's not finished, just got grill frame ready, need four 1.5" x 1.5" blocks (and magnets that Amazon seems to have lost) to use to gain needed grill cloth clearance from sub surround since it's not flush mounted. Also spikes won't be here until tomorrow and I need to pick up one more bag of Polyfil.

Can anyone confirm using hot glue to get a good solid hold on the magnets? I have read that N48's are pretty strong.

I can confirm other Epic owner's claims...this is probably the stiffest sub I've ever broken in. More so than my L7s too.

Gotta love technology though...I don't even need to burn 25hz sine wave CDs or MP3s...just hit the Bass Mechanik channel on Pandora and let it play.

My evaluation so far? Massive upgrade from what I had. But I'm withholding judgment until the speaker is broken in, I can get the box off of the carpet, and do a proper calibration and placement.

This sub has some major excursion!
post #154 of 233
Thread Starter 
OK, so I'm going to get a good Home Theater test for my finally completely upgraded system tonight...Prometheus on 3D Blu Ray...awww yeaaahhh! biggrin.gif

Will post thoughts tomorrow.
post #155 of 233
I use epoxy for neo magnets. Superglue would work too, but hot glue is a little wimpy for that application I think. Neo magnets are very strong. eek.gif

Also, if amazon falls through on them they are available at home depot in various sizes.

For grill standoffs I use rubber cabinet feet: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=269-265
post #156 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfrey0118 View Post
Gotta love technology though...I don't even need to burn 25hz sine wave CDs or MP3s...just hit the Bass Mechanik channel on Pandora and let it play.

 

 

Hey if you like that type of music Daft Punk Tron Legacy Sountrack channel is pretty cool too, I like that whole soundtrack by Daft Punk.....

post #157 of 233
+12. The Tron Legacy ST received good reviews all-around when they should have been superb, lol.

Excellent, excellent, soundtrack, sounds marvelous on a great rig.

have a great weekend.

James
post #158 of 233
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Things you can try that might help Hummmmm
  • Plug everything including sub into same outlet.
  • Try plugging sub into completely different circuit(different room) just to see if helps, not a solution.
  • Double check Grounding on Cable wire where it enters your home.
  • Make sure RG6 is grounded to only one earth ground where comes into house.
  • If your RG6 has a ground wire and your power conditioner has a ground lug on back attach it there.

Can you expound on these points? I checked outside and all I got is a corroded dual female connector and one cable wire coming out of the ground and one going into the house. The connection is so corroded I pulled them apart easily without unscrewing...no ground at all. The cable runs through the attic to a 5 way, -7db attenuated splitter, and then to the rest of the house, i.e. internet cable for rooms, etc...Only when I disconnect the main wire coming into the house does the hum stop. Not sure who did the cable like that but I don't like it.

Comcast can't come out until Tuesday.

What is RG6? What is a power conditioner and where would it be located? Is there a homemade remedy? Why can't I just find a ground in the attic somewhere and run it to the splitter?
post #159 of 233
Thread Starter 
Got my grill cloth on. Back is messy, but who cares since no one sees it...

Got a good lay, cloth nice and tight, no wrinkles or sags...





I sanded all the corners where the cloth touches so it won't wear down. Now I just need to lay my 1.5 x 1.5 x .75 blocks at the corners, epoxy the magnets to the blocks and the corners of sub box and then put feet on and I'm done...Incidentally I ordered chrome spikes from PE.com, but they are way too small, they'll just sink into the carpet, so I better return 'em and order bigger ones.
post #160 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfrey0118 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Things you can try that might help Hummmmm
  • Plug everything including sub into same outlet.
  • Try plugging sub into completely different circuit(different room) just to see if helps, not a solution.
  • Double check Grounding on Cable wire where it enters your home.
  • Make sure RG6 is grounded to only one earth ground where comes into house.
  • If your RG6 has a ground wire and your power conditioner has a ground lug on back attach it there.

Can you expound on these points? I checked outside and all I got is a corroded dual female connector and one cable wire coming out of the ground and one going into the house. The connection is so corroded I pulled them apart easily without unscrewing...no ground at all. The cable runs through the attic to a 5 way, -7db attenuated splitter, and then to the rest of the house, i.e. internet cable for rooms, etc...Only when I disconnect the main wire coming into the house does the hum stop. Not sure who did the cable like that but I don't like it.

Comcast can't come out until Tuesday.

What is RG6? What is a power conditioner and where would it be located? Is there a homemade remedy? Why can't I just find a ground in the attic somewhere and run it to the splitter?

RG6 i mean cable wire.

The cable wire is not grounded at all? You can try replacing the splitter wih one that has a ground lug on it and ground it to earth.

Dont spend too much time or money troubleshooting, the isolation transformers work well and are pretty cheap. I think Jensen makes a decent one.

Google+ Power Conditioner.
post #161 of 233
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post


RG6 i mean cable wire.

The cable wire is not grounded at all? You can try replacing the splitter wih one that has a ground lug on it and ground it to earth.

Dont spend too much time or money troubleshooting, the isolation transformers work well and are pretty cheap. I think Jensen makes a decent one.

Google+ Power Conditioner.

So if the splitter is in the attic, how do I make sure it's earth-grounded?
Edited by mfrey0118 - 10/14/12 at 7:05am
post #162 of 233
Thread Starter 
Got the grill ready finally! Now I don't have to watch my 18 month old like a hawk to make sure she doesn't go poke daddy's cool new subwoofer.

All I have left now is the spikes...




Question, do I really need to avoid turning my sub on for 24 full hours while the epoxy cures or can I at least listen at normal listening levels? I don't want the vibrations to ruin the set.
Edited by mfrey0118 - 10/14/12 at 7:05am
post #163 of 233
Thread Starter 
Well, it passed the WAF. She said it looks like we bought it from the store, which was nice of her to say but we all know it's home made, right? lol...

I have to say I like the magnets. They have great hold, the grill does not make a sound even at full volume. And it always snaps right back into place, just place the grill to where the grill magnets are about 1-2 inches to the right of the magnets on the box and slowly move to the left and it snaps right in. Then just gently slide them off when needed. Where the magnets touch has almost no vibration at all. The epoxy is working well.

My larger spikes will be here tomorrow and then I'll be done.

Still breaking it in and feeling her out a bit then I'll post thoughts on the sound.

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who participated in my thread. Without a great forum like this I would've never had the motivation to attempt something like this. smile.gif
post #164 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfrey0118 View Post

Well, it passed the WAF. She said it looks like we bought it from the store...
As well it should; you did a very nice job!!
post #165 of 233
Thread Starter 
Hey does anyone have a simple DIY remedy for screws that strip? Several on the sub are starting to strip. Just get bigger screws? Toothpicks and epoxy in the holes?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbov View Post

As well it should; you did a very nice job!!

Thanks man. It's awesome listening to the bass and thinking to myself "I made that"...
post #166 of 233

Where?  On driver mounting screws?

 

That driver is pretty beefy ain't it?

 

I'd rotate the driver and use new holes or drill them out and insert Heavy duty T-nuts or use bigger screws if they will clear the driver holes.

post #167 of 233
Hey man glad your project is a success. Every sub I built, the screws started to strip after installing/removing the driver a few times. Larger screws definitely work, and seem to last through more cycles than thinner screws.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfrey0118 View Post

Hey does anyone have a simple DIY remedy for screws that strip? Several on the sub are starting to strip. Just get bigger screws? Toothpicks and epoxy in the holes?
Thanks man. It's awesome listening to the bass and thinking to myself "I made that"...
post #168 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfrey0118 View Post

Hey does anyone have a simple DIY remedy for screws that strip? Several on the sub are starting to strip. Just get bigger screws? Toothpicks and epoxy in the holes?
Thanks man. It's awesome listening to the bass and thinking to myself "I made that"...

Toothpicks and tightbond II works well, BUT, you would be better served to use T-nuts or Hurricane nuts and socket head cap screws at this point.
post #169 of 233
Thread Starter 
OK I just ordered #8 size hex head bolts with T screw nuts.

Also, I noticed the amp starts to clip with gain less than halfway up and volume at about 75% with a 25hz sine wave...is this due to box restrictions/tuning or do I need to troubleshoot? I've managed to counter with a -10db slope .75 Q EQ cut at 20hz. Wiring is correctly in series.

Other than that, so far this thing has impressed me.

When measuring, I use c weighted correct? And I place the meter 1m away from speaker aimed at the center, correct?
Edited by mfrey0118 - 10/18/12 at 6:04am
post #170 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfrey0118 View Post

OK I just ordered #8 size hex head bolts with T screw nuts.

Also, I noticed the amp starts to clip with gain less than halfway up and volume at about 75% with a 25hz sine wave...is this due to box restrictions/tuning or do I need to troubleshoot? I've managed to counter with a -10db slope .75 Q EQ cut at 20hz. Wiring is correctly in series.

Other than that, so far this thing has impressed me.

When measuring, I use c weighted correct? And I place the meter 1m away from speaker aimed at the center, correct?

The amp can be made to clip reguardless of gain setting. That knob just attenuates to input voltage. Turn it down more or until your gain stucture works for all components without clipping.

Those amps dont do well with sine waves at high power. It has a tracking power supply which doesnt cooperate with sine waves. Much the same way as SMPSs and class D amps behave. Thats the reason its rated/tested "1/3 Duty Cycle" and not RMS. Does it clip with program material or just sine waves?

Your power limited IMO with your setup youll clip the amp before the driver complains, which isnt a necessarily a bad thing. As long as you dont clip the amp and damage the driver you should be safe. Just keep the red lights out(assuming it has red lights).
post #171 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfrey0118 View Post

OK I just ordered #8 size hex head bolts with T screw nuts.
Also, I noticed the amp starts to clip with gain less than halfway up and volume at about 75% with a 25hz sine wave...is this due to box restrictions/tuning or do I need to troubleshoot? I've managed to counter with a -10db slope .75 Q EQ cut at 20hz. Wiring is correctly in series.
Other than that, so far this thing has impressed me.
When measuring, I use c weighted correct? And I place the meter 1m away from speaker aimed at the center, correct?

I would have gone w/ at least #10 if not 1/4". I should have specified that in the earlier post. sry

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-778

Yes, the clipping is just due to the gain structure of the amp. The position of the volume knob is meaningless. You want to set the amp gain far enough below clipping to allow for peaks, typically 6db.

Meter should be set to C weight slow. Place it at the listening position unless you are trying to measure the response of your box with as little room response as possible. Then you would place the meter as close to the cone as you can get it without it touching.
Edited by nograveconcern - 10/18/12 at 7:00am
post #172 of 233
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post


The amp can be made to clip reguardless of gain setting. That knob just attenuates to input voltage. Turn it down more or until your gain stucture works for all components without clipping.

Those amps dont do well with sine waves at high power. It has a tracking power supply which doesnt cooperate with sine waves. Much the same way as SMPSs and class D amps behave. Thats the reason its rated/tested "1/3 Duty Cycle" and not RMS. Does it clip with program material or just sine waves?

Your power limited IMO with your setup youll clip the amp before the driver complains, which isnt a necessarily a bad thing. As long as you dont clip the amp and damage the driver you should be safe. Just keep the red lights out(assuming it has red lights).

So in your opinion, what would I gain by switching the amp out with the SPA1000? it's got the same cut out size and depth so it'd be an easy swap...
post #173 of 233
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfrey0118 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post


The amp can be made to clip reguardless of gain setting. That knob just attenuates to input voltage. Turn it down more or until your gain stucture works for all components without clipping.

Those amps dont do well with sine waves at high power. It has a tracking power supply which doesnt cooperate with sine waves. Much the same way as SMPSs and class D amps behave. Thats the reason its rated/tested "1/3 Duty Cycle" and not RMS. Does it clip with program material or just sine waves?

Your power limited IMO with your setup youll clip the amp before the driver complains, which isnt a necessarily a bad thing. As long as you dont clip the amp and damage the driver you should be safe. Just keep the red lights out(assuming it has red lights).

So in your opinion, what would I gain by switching the amp out with the SPA1000? it's got the same cut out size and depth so it'd be an easy swap...

IDK, maybe nothing.

Do you think the driver is maxed out? Do you have a multi meter? If so i am curious how many volts you get before clipping into a sinewave.

What SPLs are you seeing?
post #174 of 233
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

IDK, maybe nothing.

Do you think the driver is maxed out? Do you have a multi meter? If so i am curious how many volts you get before clipping into a sinewave.

What SPLs are you seeing?

Well, what does 1/3 power cycle equate to in RMS? Can I assume like 375? So not only do I not have any headroom, but I'm short by over 100 watts...so assuming nothing is malfunctioning, getting the SPA1000 would likely result in an increase in SQ and SPL at the lower freqs, correct?
post #175 of 233
It doesn't really work like that. It's more an issue of on average the in application use of the sub should require full power output not more than 1/3rd of the time. They don't intend the amp to play 1000W sine waves endlessly. This is why the manual says,
Quote:
It is not recommended for use in DJ, pro-sound, or other high-duty-cycle applications. The amplifier runs cool thanks to its high efficiency, but care should be taken to leave some room for air circulation above and behind the amplifier.
The limitation is likely thermal.
post #176 of 233
AFAIK there is not a conversion from one to another. My gut says the 1000 would be a bit much. Doubling the power technically nets 3db, and idk if your excursion would still be controlled or how close to the thermal capacity of the driver.

Prob safer to put the extra money towards more drivers.
post #177 of 233
Thread Starter 
Probably right. Thing thing does rock, by the way, makes my walls shake and rattle and my wife say "I'm not going to put up with this crap!!"...biggrin.gif
Im just trying to gun for perfection.

Only issue really is that in order to hit 20-25hz to where you can actally hear/feel it, I need zero cut on the EQ. This results in clipping at 20-25hz on a sine wave with relatively little gain applied. This also results in the higher freqs not hitting hard, and having a lot of room to turn the gain up and get more SPL out of the 30-80hz range, which the driver can handle easily...

So my compromise with what I have is to cut the EQ at 18hz until I can turn it up to about 80% volume on a sine wave with no clipping by working the Q and Level of the EQ.
Edited by mfrey0118 - 10/18/12 at 6:28pm
post #178 of 233
congratulations mfrey.
post #179 of 233
Thread Starter 
Just ran a 18hz sine wave and hit 105db at the speaker with the meter. Same with 20.
post #180 of 233
Sweet 105db is not too shabby!

If your clipping on the low stuff you might try using these scenes: WOTW- Pods emerge scene, Inception- dunk scene and marketplace scenes. Those are some of the hottest program materials Ive found on bass. If your system doesnt clip on those you should be good. This is assuming you dont have a bunch of boost in the midband.

All im sayin is sine waves will clip the amp waaaay before program material will and you might find another db or two in there by setting your gain that way.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › My First Ever DIY Sub