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DIY build with 2 LMS-R 15s, could use some advice!

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
After spending a few months reading around through most of the DIY build logs on here. I finally decided that I want to give DIY a shot...

Currently my system is..

Panasonic ST50 plasma
Pioneer VSX-1121K
Arx A1 center
Arx A5 front right/lefts
Arx A2s as my rears
Cheapo blu ray player. (for now, planning on building a HTPC next spring)
APC H15 power cleaner
Omnimount RE18 rack
Rythmik FV12P subwoofer
and tons of other stuff

The room is about 11X13X triangle ceiling, (Not really sure how this affects the sound waves)

The Rythmik is a nice subwoofer, it sounds good. I don't think it is integrated well with my A5s, as the sound seems off like a delay. Since I have MCCAA or whatever it is (I don't like it) I don't have my subwoofer EQ with everything else. I like the sub I just want more... a lot more... biggrin.gif

What I am thinking (For now) is...

2 TC sounds LMS-R 15s
1 EP4000
2 sealed enclosed boxes

Next spring

4 LMS-R 15s
LG Clone 10K 4 channel amp
4 separate sealed boxes.

I would be building the boxes myself, I think it would be really neat to give it a shot. I might spray paint them black or I will put some sort of vinyl over the boxes. I would like to go the sealed route, I know it takes gobs more power to get the same SPL as a ported. I honestly don't have enough confidence in myself to be able to build a ported box.

I don't know what would be the best size to make the boxes, I was planning on either Birch ( I think that's the better stuff?) or MDF 3/4''. I would also fill the boxes with pillow cotton stuff from Walmart, although I don't really know enough anything about the fill part of it so can someone maybe explain? Thanks

Also when it comes to actually building the boxes and braces etc, I am clueless. I am actually 17, go to high school, and work, and I pay for everything that is my room... Lucky for me my aunt does HVAC, my step dad is a pipe fitter/carpenter and my mom is a electrician/network admin. So between them all, I have I think every tool that I would need to build the boxes EXCEPT the tool that cuts perfect circles? I have a jig saw and a dremmel (Sp?) but I would like to be able to do this right the first time. What is that tool called? Also I know you have to put glue inside in the box to really seal the box up. I read about Titebond 2 and 3? I think 3 has a slower set time so you can adjust it? Not really sure... What glue/caulking do you guys recommend? I have a caulking gun already. What screws do you guys think are the best? I also have nail gun, I read over on another site about using a nail gun? Not really sure... I was planning on just using screws on the sides of the box, then adding some sort of putty type stuff. Sanding it all down, then painting the boxes. I guess I don't really know much about the boxes. If someone could design something using a CAD program or something. I could go off of it. If I have instructions I can build it. The boxes can't be wider then 18'' though. I thought about duel opposed but I just don't have the room.

My goals right now is to have the OmniMic ordered by mid-October range and to have the boxes built and finished by end of October. I actually start my new job tomorrow after school. Then have the subwoofers and amp ordered sometime in late November/early December.

What should I use to actually EQ the subwoofers? How do I wire them? I read about parallel etc, but I honestly just got confused. Since the subwoofers have two voice coils and both are 2ohms, is there a way to create a two ohm load per subwoofer? I don't know anything about this part, so any help would be greatly appreciated... The subs will sit on each end of the bed.

Here is some of the parts I was looking at on Parts Express

partsexpressorder.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Just a few parts, for all I know most of those could be wrong...

Anyways I appreciate any and all help guys!! Thank you very much!!!

Pictures of the room

photo2og.jpg

photo3es.jpg

photo5fdw.jpg

photo7qnk.jpg

photo8gp.jpg

This is what my ceiling does.

photo9bd.jpg

This is where I want one of the subs to sit.

sub1fx.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Edited by Aus1095 - 9/27/12 at 5:39pm
post #2 of 8
You'll possibly need a router with a cutting bit and a jig to cut a circle. The router may not be cheap but the circle jig isn't expensive. Maybe one of your family members has a router.

Your project as is and the upgrade path is pretty damn good. Especially for your first time in on DIY. That system should be overkill in a room twice your size. biggrin.gif If you really wanted to go vented, it's easy. I could model up something in a minute but the LMSR models better sealed and your room is pretty small. Sealed would be the best way to go anyway and you told me you wanted <20hz extension so you'll go better than than and get extension to 5hz. wink.gif

Some form of post processing EQ should be considered and one of the first choices is the Behringer BFD but you should take a look at the MiniDSP as it's not much more and gives you tons more capability... or more so, useful capability for you need. You can do your EQ and shelving filters with that and have independant control of up to four subs. Perfect! smile.gif

Glue is easy. Just use wood glue. If you want to seal up some seams, use whatever is reasonable. I used Liquid Nails for my LLT project and other older projects. Baltic Birch is a good choice for stock but MDF 3/4" is fine too and less expensive. Good for home use.

OmniMic is good choice and easy to use for measurements. It's a nice all-in-one system and I have one myself. I like it.

Almost there and you haven't even started yet. smile.gif
post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

You'll possibly need a router with a cutting bit and a jig to cut a circle. The router may not be cheap but the circle jig isn't expensive. Maybe one of your family members has a router.
Your project as is and the upgrade path is pretty damn good. Especially for your first time in on DIY. That system should be overkill in a room twice your size. biggrin.gif If you really wanted to go vented, it's easy. I could model up something in a minute but the LMSR models better sealed and your room is pretty small. Sealed would be the best way to go anyway and you told me you wanted <20hz extension so you'll go better than than and get extension to 5hz. wink.gif
Some form of post processing EQ should be considered and one of the first choices is the Behringer BFD but you should take a look at the MiniDSP as it's not much more and gives you tons more capability... or more so, useful capability for you need. You can do your EQ and shelving filters with that and have independant control of up to four subs. Perfect! smile.gif
Glue is easy. Just use wood glue. If you want to seal up some seams, use whatever is reasonable. I used Liquid Nails for my LLT project and other older projects. Baltic Birch is a good choice for stock but MDF 3/4" is fine too and less expensive. Good for home use.
OmniMic is good choice and easy to use for measurements. It's a nice all-in-one system and I have one myself. I like it.
Almost there and you haven't even started yet. smile.gif

Yeah, I think I am going to stick with sealed, can you model up a sealed enclosure please? Like the ones in your build thread...

I looked at the miniDSP, but I didn't really understand any of it. There website IMO wasn't very user friendly. I will check out that Behringer unit though.

Do you have to glue the seams? Alright I will use MDF 3/4'', what about nails/screws?

Yeah I have heard good things about the Omnimic.

Also going to add pictures of my room to show where I want the subs to sit.
post #4 of 8
Yes, you have to glue it. You can use finish nails or some screws to help hold it together while the glue dries.
post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

Yes, you have to glue it. You can use finish nails or some screws to help hold it together while the glue dries.

Do you put glue where the boards connect and thats what holds it together or do you put it on the inside where the boards come together, but are held together by finish nails?
post #6 of 8
Glue is in the seams between the boards when you're putting the pieces together. You put caulk or silicone sealant on the inside where the boards come together when you're done to ensure it's airtight. If you use silicone sealant be sure to let it dry for more than 24 hours before putting the drivers in the box.
post #7 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus1095 View Post

Do you put glue where the boards connect and thats what holds it together or do you put it on the inside where the boards come together, but are held together by finish nails?
You can glue boards together, or you can glue and screw boards together. Forget finish nails. Either way, use a good amount of glue, keep you joints tight with precise cuts, and don't worry about using silicone/caulk for air leaks. As long as you did you job right, you won't need it.
post #8 of 8
Another good spot would be next to your A/C where it looks like a small garbage can is now. If it would fit, I think that would be a good spot for one.

I did a model for you. I figure since you're really limited on space and have a 2,000w amp in your upgrade path that I would get these babies in a small but optimal enclosure. Two cubic feet per sub driver. Pretty small.

LMSR15forAus.gif
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