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JL 10W7 Sub Build... Please help a newbie with his first sub build!

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
I used to be really big into car audio and have a few 10" subs that aren't being used so I figured that I'd put them to use. I want to use two JL 10W7's for my home theater sub build. I know that 10" subs aren't the greatest for HT but I think they'll do fine if put into the proper box. Here's the rundown:

I'm basing this build off of this. Scroll down to the bottom on the second page.


Room: 12'(Deep) x 16'(Width) with 8' ceilings with wide opening to dining room which is next to it.

-I want to have one sub on each end of the room (16' Width part of room) standing next to my boston acoustics VR3 towers.
-I want sub box to be no higher than 40" (to match VR3's height) ~16" wide and ~22" deep (Can change the width and depth a little).
-Both subs will be powered by a Crown XLS 2500 Class D Pro Amp (775w x 2 @ 4 Ohms, 1200w x 2 @ 2 Ohms)
-I talked to Crown and they stated that the amp has a 24db per octave roll-off at 20Hz so I don't think that I'll need a subsonic filter to protect the sub from overexcursion.


1. I modeled the 10W7 in WinISD and came up with 4^3 ft. box tuned to 20Hz with a 6" flared port measuring 43" but that's without any eq/filter setting which I know will change the curve. Can somebody help me incorporate the crown roll-off into this model? I'm thinking the crown will put out ~900watts to each sub.

2. Do I have to worry about over excursion with this sub?

3. Can I make the whole build out of mdf and then put another layer of birch plywood over the mdf for a nice finishing touch so that I can stain it and put a nice lacquer over the stain? I don't know if gluing the two different materials together will work out ok.

4. I know that i'm going to have to do bracing but don't know how to go about it and how to calculate the space used by bracing, as well
as, the 6" flared port.

5. Do you use polyfill in a ported enclosure or is that only for sealed enclosures?

6. I'm looking at a single 6" flared precision sound port for this build since it's the biggest that they make. Will just the one port be ok?How do I mount it to the box since there's no screw holes and how can I get the 43" length that I need with the 90 degree bend? Is the port velocity ok with this build?

7. What would be a good height to put the sub at? Does it matter?

Thank you everybody! I know that it's a lot but I want to get this beast built! smile.gif

BTW, on the bottom of the first page there's a WinISD file for this driver that you can download and modify if needed. Just make a note that there's a highpass crossover setting in the EQ/Filter section that needs to be removed as I don't have a HP crossover for the subsonic frequencies.
post #2 of 14
Here's what you get per box with the filter:


2) Doesn't look like it

6) The 6" port is bigger than you need.
post #3 of 14
1178, two good tens can do ok to get you started, but don't expect anywhere near the same performance in the home as in a car. pressure vessel gain is huge in cars. zero outdoors. somewhere in between in real home rooms.

+1 to stereo's post above.

if the above plot is confusing, the dark blue line is the frequency response.

i get substantially the same thing using another program.

775 watts doesn't hit xmax anywhere. if it would be cheaper, two 3.5"x30" flared ports should be fine.

my w.a.g. for volume of driver, bracing and port is going to be around 0.5-0.75 cubic feet. volume is volume. if you don't remember the formulas, just do a search.

stuffing subs may help reduce some out of band resonances, but itsn't critical.

i don't know the answer to your question about wood.
Edited by LTD02 - 9/29/12 at 10:19am
post #4 of 14
I would love to see someone build a theater sub using the JL Audio w7s. I have always loved those subs for car audio and have always been curious about their potential in a home theater type setting. OP- Definitely keep us posted on this, and hopefully someone who is more knowledgeable than myself, will answer your questions.
post #5 of 14
My custom built (not by me) 4-way active speakers use JL 8W7's as the bass drivers. I'm quite impressed.

I'm looking at using a 10W7 I have here for building out a sub (hence how I found this thread)
post #6 of 14
Thread Starter 
Good to hear... and if you already have the driver why not. I was in the same situatuion as you are. It's currently being worked on and is slow going because I'm a college student and spend most of my time on my studies. I'm currently concentrating on my final exams for my 4 current classes and will be taking a 6 week course this winter then picking up 4 classes this spring. The build is also being done at a friends house so I have to deal with his schedule as well. To be honest, I haven't done much on the build as the guy who's helping me (or should I say I'm helping him) build the box is retired and seems to be enjoying himself a decent amount. I don't think that he minds as long as I do well in school and is doing all the work for free. smile.gif Basically, I'm just paying for the materials. I do think that when it comes to finishing it up I'll have to do all the sanding and staining but that's fine with me. I just told him that I would prefer to do that in the next 1.5 months while I only have one class to deal with rather than trying to work on it in the spring with 4 classes.

Back to the build, I'm building a 24" cube with 3/4" walls and a 1.5" front. After bracing, port, and speaker displacement I will have 4.5^3 ft. of available space with a 48" long port which will give me ~21 HZ tune. With the crown amp that i'm using it'll put out 775 watts @ 4 Ohms. With these specification it'll put out 110 dB at 20 Hz and 113 dB from 46 Hz and up with a 21 Hz HPF. This is my first sub but from what I understand that isn't too shabby for a single 10" sub. I'm building two so you can add ~6 dB to each of those numbers to give 116 dB at 20Hz. That should sound pretty nice I would think. smile.gif

Here's some pics of the build: http://s493.photobucket.com/albums/rr299/Audiophile1178/JL%20Audio%2010W7%20Ported%20Home%20Theater%20Sub%20Box%20Build/

Here's the WinISD graph:

Keep me posted on what you decide! When I get them finished I'm post of some pics on this thread or start a new one. There's hardly any builds with JL Audio subs!
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
I have a dilemma. I'm in the process of building my two boxes for these subs and just realized that if I connect 2 subs in parallel to get 1.5 Ohms (they're 3 Ohms per sub) and then add another in series I'd end up having 4.5 Ohms. I was originally going to power each sub on it's own channel but if I add another one I could bridge it and probably put out ~2,100 watts or so at 4.5 Ohms. The amp does 2,400 watts at 4 Ohms bridged. Does that sound like a correct final Ohm load for two 3 Ohms subs wired in parallel and then another added to that in series? Also, from my understanding all three subs would get the same amount of power?

Here's the dilemma:

2 Sub Build:

-Each sub would be on it's own channel and would be getting at least 775 watts.
-I could use the amps gains on each channel to do some fine adjustments on the subs.
-At 20 Hz WinISD shows 117.4 dB

3 Sub Build:

-The amp would be bridged and each sub would be getting around 700 watts.
-I wouldn't be able to adjust the gains on the amp for each sub as it would be global but I don't think that this would really matter.
--At 20 Hz WinISD shows 120.3 dB

My question to you all is it worth going through the hassel of building another ported box for a 3 dB gain considering my room is fairly small?

WinISD Graph:

post #8 of 14
Putting two in parallel and one in series with that would be a big no-no.
post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post

Putting two in parallel and one in series with that would be a big no-no.
I believe you and the two ported boxes are near completion so I'm just going to use the two and I'm sure it'll be more than enough as I'm not really using any subs at the moment. The two should hold me over more than enough for now. I'd just like to understand why it would be a big no-no??? confused.gif Are you not supposed to combine series and parallel for subs? Is this method only for regular speakers?
post #10 of 14
Because the drivers would not all get the same power as each other in such a configuration.
post #11 of 14
OK, so I know this thread is a little older......but I have been trying to figure out how to use my JL 10w7 as my home theater sub and I don't really know what would be good for amplification. I know the w7 has a single 1.5 ohm voice coil, but does that mean I have to find a home amplifier that is rated for constant 1.5 ohm use? My setup is as follows:

Integra DTR-7.8 receiver
Def Tech BP10B fronts
Def Tech ProCenter 2000 center
Def Tech BPX surrounds
Def Tech ProMonitor 100 surround backs

So I already have a box built that I had originally placed in my car......I know, pretty lame and cheap but its already built sitting around not doing anything so I might as well try to use it right! So the box is a down-firing slot ported box built directly to JL Audio's enclosure specifications for the 10w7. My issue comes with the amp. Like I said before, I'm not sure if I have to find a 1 to 1.5ohm rated amp to power it or if I can just use something like this Dayton 500W plate amp: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-806

Thanks in advance for any help ANYONE can offer!!!
post #12 of 14
Originally Posted by 00cbirdw View Post

I know the w7 has a single 1.5 ohm voice coil!

Sorry, don't know why I got mixed up (probably because I USED to have 2 of the 10w7's running @ 1.5 ohm)......they're actually single 3 ohm voice coils. I dug a little deeper and found some people recommending the Behringer Europower EP4000......any opinions on this amp? Thanks biggrin.gif
post #13 of 14
Thread Starter 
For any future references the build is done and can be viewed in this post:

post #14 of 14
A single EP4000 would work great in my opinion! Or you could always step up to the CV5000 from Cerwin Vega, or perhaps a Crown XLS model. I don't think the differences between the CV and the EP4k are going to be that different, but I could be wrong.
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