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Marantz AV8801 Preamp/Processor Official Owner's thread - Page 342

post #10231 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post

I got some fans for piece of mind.
Set mine On at 85 and Off at 80 degrees F.
This what I use to suck the warm air out, not trying to cool the the Marantz/power amp by blowing air in.

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556094272.html
and the dual thermostast controller
http://www.coolerguys.com/cgdpsled.html

Work very well, but it add lots of cable management to do.

If you go that way, I strongly sugest you spend a few more bucks for cable management on longer probes.
Also, what I did was to put a piece of heat resistand tape to hold the probe wire agains the the fan and give it a little bend so you probe is where you want it to be, right next to the fan.

Some may differ, but for me a couples of hundred bucks includind $50 for shipping to Canada was worth the piece of mind for my equipment to never over heat.
Also, read my post #10095 on pg 337 from a paste and post from a friend of mine who is an electronic engineer who also use fans.

Ray
That's the (pretty much) exact same cooling set up that I'm using, but have it to come on at 87, and off at 79 degrees.
It works flawlessly, affords peace of mind, and its quiet too.
post #10232 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post

Mine has worked since day one , before using it ( dialog enhancement) press the movie button to be sure its in movie mode ( DTS, DD or sacd) and then try it and be sure you use the 8801 remote for this and press the set up button and make your selection then the enter button and then the Back button to back out. Also do you guys with the problem Bitsetream or use LPCM not saying that it, but checking all possibilities, but do try the above with the 8801's remote wink.gif
Hi audiofan1, when you say put it on 'movie mode', do you also mean also when the source is the cable HDTV input?
I assume that (like other menu changes) that this change is also independent per source input?

(And to answer your question - my Blu-ray player is set up for Bitstream output).
post #10233 of 11289
Audyseey is not sweeping my second sub in the setup...

It just keeps listing "1spker" for subwoofer...

What am I missing ?
post #10234 of 11289
I am connected to sw2...

The sub is on...

If I disconnect the rca I get feedback to the sub....

Audyssey is not even giving a sec d sub speaker on the setup picture menu....
post #10235 of 11289
Have you tried going in to the setup menu and setting it to 2 subs manually?
post #10236 of 11289
I had sw2 set to xlr.... got it on now.

BUT I have less bass with three subs than I did with 1...

What the F*CK? I even set the db up 3... still...
post #10237 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Norseman View Post

Hi audiofan1, when you say put it on 'movie mode', do you also mean also when the source is the cable HDTV input?
I assume that (like other menu changes) that this change is also independent per source input?

(And to answer your question - my Blu-ray player is set up for Bitstream output).

Yes! it should retain it for different inputs independently ! the key for now seems to be following the steps above with the 8801's remote. Did you give it a shot?
post #10238 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by baranowski View Post

I had sw2 set to xlr.... got it on now.

BUT I have less bass with three subs than I did with 1...

What the F*CK? I even set the db up 3... still...

It is possible to cause cancellation between multiple subs. where are the three subs? There are settings such as phase and distance settings that can help this problem. Also the position of the subs makes a difference in room interactions. The subs can also cancel out bass from your mains as well depending on how they are crossed over.

Audyssey is also not designed for 3-4 sub setups yet. Even the 2 sub calibration is not as good as a manually performed setup. It can't optimize subwoofers as well as you could using a microphone/laptop/software. I am in the process of getting a new mic to adjust my subwoofers until they are coordinated into a fairly linear response.
post #10239 of 11289
Two on the front wall one on the back wall
post #10240 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by baranowski View Post

Two on the front wall one on the back wall

I would try and adjust the location of the rear wall sub or sometimes even better: place all the subs on one wall.

The extra sub is particularly beneficial in correcting nulls in the response of other subwoofers. You really MUST make measurements in order to do this. It is well worth the effort to setup subs, sometimes with their own equilizer.

Getting subs to work well is really a labor of love but well worth it and not expensive usually. The subwoofer threads really get into optimal placement and how to adjust subwoofers for best effect.
post #10241 of 11289
Pretty limited on placement. .. 3, 15" woofers really don't place in a lot of places.

All speakers are crossed over at 80.... lfe is 80 as well.

My one sub was on the long wall to the right side of the couch...
post #10242 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Norseman View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post

I got some fans for piece of mind.
Set mine On at 85 and Off at 80 degrees F.
This what I use to suck the warm air out, not trying to cool the the Marantz/power amp by blowing air in.

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556094272.html
and the dual thermostast controller
http://www.coolerguys.com/cgdpsled.html

Work very well, but it add lots of cable management to do.

If you go that way, I strongly sugest you spend a few more bucks for cable management on longer probes.
Also, what I did was to put a piece of heat resistand tape to hold the probe wire agains the the fan and give it a little bend so you probe is where you want it to be, right next to the fan.

Some may differ, but for me a couples of hundred bucks includind $50 for shipping to Canada was worth the piece of mind for my equipment to never over heat.
Also, read my post #10095 on pg 337 from a paste and post from a friend of mine who is an electronic engineer who also use fans.

Ray
That's the (pretty much) exact same cooling set up that I'm using, but have it to come on at 87, and off at 79 degrees.
It works flawlessly, affords peace of mind, and its quiet too.

Your the one that told me through a PM of the hot spot on the AV8801,
and I do thank you for that.

I might try your setting since I cannot monitor the fans since my equipment is the wall and the back is in another room.
A 9 degree window might be a bettter option than 5 degree window as I am not sure how fast the fans cool of the unit.
Or it just keep the temperature regulated since the Marantz want to run hot.

Ray
post #10243 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post

Yes! it should retain it for different inputs independently ! the key for now seems to be following the steps above with the 8801's remote. Did you give it a shot?
Not yet, but I will try it tonight if I can wrestle the remote away from my better half...tongue.gif
post #10244 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post

Your the one that told me through a PM of the hot spot on the AV8801,
and I do thank you for that.

I might try your setting since I cannot monitor the fans since my equipment is the wall and the back is in another room.
A 9 degree window might be a bettter option than 5 degree window as I am not sure how fast the fans cool of the unit.
Or it just keep the temperature regulated since the Marantz want to run hot.

Ray
I'm sure your settings are fine too, as I think the AV8801 has a rather wide temperature tolerance anyway, but no harm in playing around with different settings.
In the winter, I'll set the on & off points lower (87/79), as I keep the house at 68 degrees.
But in the summer I'll set it a bit higher (say on at 89, off at 81 or so), just to keep things relative, but it probably doesn't matter either way.
Theoretically, we could just set them up to come on when the equipment is turned on, and off when they're turned off I suppose. Wouldn't hurt them to be cooled all the time...but for now I'll stick with the settings I have. Sounds like you're set up really well already.
post #10245 of 11289
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post

I got some fans for piece of mind.
Set mine On at 85 and Off at 80 degrees F.
This what I use to suck the warm air out, not trying to cool the the Marantz/power amp by blowing air in.

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556094272.html
and the dual thermostast controller
http://www.coolerguys.com/cgdpsled.html

Work very well, but it add lots of cable management to do.

If you go that way, I strongly sugest you spend a few more bucks for cable management on longer probes.
Also, what I did was to put a piece of heat resistand tape to hold the probe wire agains the the fan and give it a little bend so you probe is where you want it to be, right next to the fan.

Some may differ, but for me a couples of hundred bucks includind $50 for shipping to Canada was worth the piece of mind for my equipment to never over heat.
Also, read my post #10095 on pg 337 from a paste and post from a friend of mine who is an electronic engineer who also use fans.

Ray

Thanks and nice setup. The problem is that we're still relatively close to the Marantz, and even with the ultra quiet fans I can hear them... So that's why I invested $150 in another shelf wink.gif
post #10246 of 11289
My dialog enhancer now sticks. Thanks audiofan1 for your cure.
post #10247 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by exm View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post

I got some fans for piece of mind.
Set mine On at 85 and Off at 80 degrees F.
This what I use to suck the warm air out, not trying to cool the the Marantz/power amp by blowing air in.

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556094272.html
and the dual thermostast controller
http://www.coolerguys.com/cgdpsled.html

Work very well, but it add lots of cable management to do.

If you go that way, I strongly sugest you spend a few more bucks for cable management on longer probes.
Also, what I did was to put a piece of heat resistand tape to hold the probe wire agains the the fan and give it a little bend so you probe is where you want it to be, right next to the fan.

Some may differ, but for me a couples of hundred bucks includind $50 for shipping to Canada was worth the piece of mind for my equipment to never over heat.
Also, read my post #10095 on pg 337 from a paste and post from a friend of mine who is an electronic engineer who also use fans.

Ray

Thanks and nice setup. The problem is that we're still relatively close to the Marantz, and even with the ultra quiet fans I can hear them... So that's why I invested $150 in another shelf wink.gif

9 inchs of space above should be good smile.gif pretty close to the 12" recomended by Marantz.
And yes, if you can hear the fans it does cancel the purpose of having such a nice piece of equipment for the ultimate sound since it will become a distraction.
Someone with their equipment further away or someone like me can benefit of the fans.
You did your due diligence and gave it as much space in between as you could and you should be good to go smile.gif

And thanks for the complement of my set-up!

Happy listening.

Ray
post #10248 of 11289
I Changed The subwoofer settings from -10.5 To 0 that has help greatly. But still seems weird I had to change them that much
post #10249 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by blazar View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by baranowski View Post

Two on the front wall one on the back wall

I would try and adjust the location of the rear wall sub or sometimes even better: place all the subs on one wall.

The extra sub is particularly beneficial in correcting nulls in the response of other subwoofers. You really MUST make measurements in order to do this. It is well worth the effort to setup subs, sometimes with their own equilizer.

Getting subs to work well is really a labor of love but well worth it and not expensive usually. The subwoofer threads really get into optimal placement and how to adjust subwoofers for best effect.

+1 on that
Subs can be difficult at time.
In my room, I got 2 at equal distance at the front, but when dealing with 3tr one it could be benifial or a step back.
Sound like you have lots of experience to do, if time permit you.

If this help you or not.
I got 2 PB13 Ultra in a 12 x 18 ft room, and my 2 butt-ckikers usally give up before the subs.
Also since I got the Marantz, I did back-up the SMS-1 by 8 on a volume of 0-100 (for the butt kickers {I do not know the scale in db}).

Good luck.

Ray
post #10250 of 11289
All,
Is it possible to take the video from one HDMI input and Audio from another HDMI input for the same Input say "Bluray". For example, I can choose Split A/V in the Oppo which sends video over HDMI 1 and audio over HDMI2 output. I want to be able to set Input 3 in the marantz to HDMI1 output from Oppo and Input2 DVD to HDMI2 output from Oppo. Is this possible?
Interestingly, even if I choose Split A/V, the 8801 is getting high-resolution audio (DTS-HD Masteraudio) from HDMI1 output of the Oppo.
Thanks,
-Jai
post #10251 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcomp124 View Post

All,
Is it possible to take the video from one HDMI input and Audio from another HDMI input for the same Input say "Bluray". For example, I can choose Split A/V in the Oppo which sends video over HDMI 1 and audio over HDMI2 output. I want to be able to set Input 3 in the marantz to HDMI1 output from Oppo and Input2 DVD to HDMI2 output from Oppo. Is this possible?
Interestingly, even if I choose Split A/V, the 8801 is getting high-resolution audio (DTS-HD Masteraudio) from HDMI1 output of the Oppo.
Thanks,
-Jai

I've been exploring the same thing. Seems the answer is NO. You can't select different HDMI-Ins for audio and video. A real bummer! 

 

Split A/V setting only takes effect when both HDMI-monitor outputs are connected...so if you only connect HDMI-monitor-1 output, I don't think this setting has any effect.

post #10252 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDOz View Post

I've been exploring the same thing. Seems the answer is NO. You can't select different HDMI-Ins for audio and video. A real bummer! 

Split A/V setting only takes effect when both HDMI-monitor outputs are connected...so if you only connect HDMI-monitor-1 output, I don't think this setting has any effect.
Thanks for the clarification. Also, if under DVD, if I choose option 2, then I think Split A/V kicks in and I get video only while choosing Bluray.
post #10253 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcomp124 View Post


Thanks for the clarification. Also, if under DVD, if I choose option 2, then I think Split A/V kicks in and I get video only while choosing Bluray.

Sorry, what is option 2?  Not being able to assign video and audio separately is a real pain. Apart from limiting my set-up options, how am I supposed to watch sports on TV while listening to music?

 

I'm having all sorts of problems getting my Sat TV receiver to talk to the marantz via my Oppo. I felt that the split AV setting "might" be involved in some set-ups I tried. Thought I finally had it working with Sat--Oppo--Marantz---TV (single monitor-out) but have now noticed that sometimes when I change channels to a 5.1 channel, the Marantz display shows "stereo" and I get no sound.

post #10254 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDOz View Post

Sorry, what is option 2?  Not being able to assign video and audio separately is a real pain. Apart from limiting my set-up options, how am I supposed to watch sports on TV while listening to music?

I'm having all sorts of problems getting my Sat TV receiver to talk to the marantz via my Oppo. I felt that the split AV setting "might" be involved in some set-ups I tried. Thought I finally had it working with Sat--Oppo--Marantz---TV (single monitor-out) but have now noticed that sometimes when I change channels to a 5.1 channel, the Marantz display shows "stereo" and I get no sound.
Sorry, what I meant by Option 2, is HDMI input slot 2. Those are the different options you can choose in the assign mapping window.
post #10255 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcomp124 View Post


Sorry, what I meant by Option 2, is HDMI input slot 2. Those are the different options you can choose in the assign mapping window.

It may be that the Split AV setting only kicks in when both HDMI-outs from the Oppo are connected and "active"

 

BTW; I have the zone 4 HDMI-out of marantz connected to a 2nd TV, which cannot decode mutichannel audio. If I'm watching a multichannel source and I turn on that 2nd TV, the HDMI-audio-out to both TVs automatically switches to stereo.

post #10256 of 11289
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post

I got some fans for piece of mind.
Set mine On at 85 and Off at 80 degrees F.
This what I use to suck the warm air out, not trying to cool the the Marantz/power amp by blowing air in.

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556094272.html
and the dual thermostast controller
http://www.coolerguys.com/cgdpsled.html

Work very well, but it add lots of cable management to do.

If you go that way, I strongly sugest you spend a few more bucks for cable management on longer probes.
Also, what I did was to put a piece of heat resistand tape to hold the probe wire agains the the fan and give it a little bend so you probe is where you want it to be, right next to the fan.






Some may differ, but for me a couples of hundred bucks includind $50 for shipping to Canada was worth the piece of mind for my equipment to never over heat.
Also, read my post #10095 on pg 337 from a paste and post from a friend of mine who is an electronic engineer who also use fans.

Ray

Very nice setup Ray. I have those fans on my 8801, but not the thermostat like you have. I have a "smart" power strip that determines when the 8801 is on and turns the fans on at the same time. Since I'm in Vegas, I just figure things are going to be hot most of the time and have the fans set to a speed that keeps things around 85 - 87 deg F (and the fan is slow enough that I don't hear it). My little 135w/ch amp is at 95 deg F though, so I might switch to your dual thermostat system or just add another two fans like I have on the 8801 and go that way...hmmm.
post #10257 of 11289

I love these small fan controllers, and use them to cool my car audio, my HTPC and my Marants AV8801 :D

 

They are not adjustable, but they vary the fan voltage linearly from 5V (30C) to 12V (50C), which makes them excellent for "low noise self adjustable cooling", I think.

 

http://www.noisemagic.com/product_info.php?products_id=16&MODsid=d5128c25898604540e73dea243c2ff1c

post #10258 of 11289
Hey guys,

Currently trying to decide between the Yamaha CX and the Marantz AV8801, I have read most of the threads on the forum and I am still a little unsure on one of the key needs I have, I am hoping someone can help me out. I currently have a Denon AVR-A100, not a bad unit at all but it is not quite meeting my needs at this point so I am going to go the separates way.

Anyway, besides my main HT/Audio room TV I have an outdoor TV which I want to connect through the CX or 8801 also, I will be using a sound bar for the outdoor TV which connects to the TV through an optical connection, the outdoor TV connects to the receiver through HDMI. When I do this through my AVR-A100 I get the video fine but will get no sound unless I go to the receiver and switch the HDMI Audio Out setting from "Amp" to "TV" so that I can get the sound to play on the outdoor TV, this is a pain....
So, I think the answer is yes for either the CX or 8801 units but want to make sure; am I correct in assuming that the 8801 will handle both Video and Audio to my outdoor unit through HDMI without the need to make these changes in the receiver I am having to make now?

Hope I made sense, thanks in advance for your replies.

Bill
post #10259 of 11289
^^^

Bill

neither unit will resolve the issue you describe: however in the 8801 HDMI control menu you can select some specific inputs, or last input, so that when you turn the 8801 off, it outputs as you want (same as switching to TV from Amp)

so when you go outside, turn the 8801 off and the source will automatically provide output to your outdoor TV.

I believe the Yamaha would work the same way
post #10260 of 11289
Greetings all... I have a question/concern. I'm told that the 8801 will not pass through 4K signal from the Sony 4K server to my VW600. I guess I have to run 2 HDMIs to the projector and switch inputs from there rather than use the 8801 for all switching. If this is true it's not cool. What good is 4K pass-through if it doesn't work, or is proprietary depending on the input source? Sad.
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