Marantz AV8801 Preamp/Processor Official Owner's thread - Page 71

Just wondering if the 8801 has the same zone capability as the 4520 (play HDMI or optical digital source in main room to the zone outs when using all zone stereo)? I would assume it would.

Thanks

I might have embellished "sob story". I asked about it 10 days after I bought the processor, and they told me the promotion was when you bought them both together. No big deal.

I need to get the time to swap it with my current 5 channel amp and see if I notice a difference....

Sure, but these should not be needed to adjust for the proper voltages supplied to the XLR inputs.

I do not expect this to be a problem since it is Preamp 101.

- Rich

My 8801 keeps giving me blank screens when I change inputs between hdmi sources. This was after the firmware update.....I can pull up the OSD fine, but why is it doing this.....Anyone else? Here Are my sources I usually switch;

CX7000ES -1
CX7000ES -2
HTPC - Nvidia GTX680
Panasonic 3D player
360
PS3

I mostly use the top three. It does this 95% of the time. As soon as I switch to the Changers, it shows for a second then black......I switch it back to the previous input, usually the HTPC, still black.....Only way to get vdeo back is unplugging the unit. Any ideas? I already did factory reset.....I have a feeling it is one of my hdmi inputs, specifically Changer 2's, or hopefully, & better yet, only the cable.
I will update.
Edited by Geronimo.USMC - 1/23/13 at 12:46pm

Will the MM8077 drive a 4ohm load? The specs only mention 6ohm and no bridge capabilities mentioned.

Good question. It shows 0 in the specs which could be a typo or indicate that something else is required.

If you do not care about style, pick up an Outlaw 7700 that sound great and are 4 ohm capable:

http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/7700.html


- Rich

Hi again,

I have no point here, I was simply trying to understand why DTS Neo X 11 was fully operational in the 4520 that I just left and why this is not the case with the 8801 that I have now. All this knowing that they seem to be sharing similar internal architecture where HDAM modules of the 8801 are replacing amps of the 4520.

Now whatever the reason of this DTS Neo X 11 bug, I can confirm here that even after the Audyssey Pro 12 points calibration I've made, no miracle happened and when trying to process DTS Neo X 11 with an Dolby THD or DTS MA input W&H speakers are inactive.

So for the time being when DTS Neo X 11 isn't usable, we will be reverting to my previous favorite Audyssey DSX (+ EX) 11.

And let's hope that thrang's Marantz contact is right so that the FW fix will be arriving soon.

Hugo

The primary point of that function s to level the volume across different sources since not all sources have the same output voltage.

However, if this input is running into an ADC then, as I understand it, it is advantageous to have the input signal amplitude as high as possible within the confines of the ADC bits for optimal resolution. Since some value of voltage has to be chosen/associated to the maximum bits of the converter (again, in my limited understanding) then anything over this would create an out of range/overload/peak condition. One could choose a high value of the input voltage vs. bits to cover every base but then most bases likely would be a compromise in resolution because of the lower input voltage.

So, what's a good answer? Make variable the input sensitivity of the preamp.

I have a crazy feeling the firmware will be released soon...

The complaint was about the XLR analog outputs from the Oppo BDP player getting distorted.

There are specific voltages involved that must be handled properly.
If you screw that up, it doesn't matter what happens down the line analog or digital. There will be a problem.

Again, this is such a basic function of a preamp, I cannot imaging that the 8801 got this wrong.

- Rich

Such a tease.

- Rich

Sounds good. Let's hope they fix the HDMI blackouts & network gremlins along with the Neo:X....

I connected my Xantech connecting block to the Marentz' Flasher ports using a 3.5mm mono cable . Works great!

Which Xantech block are you using?

I hope there are fixes for:

- NeoX issues (including the center image option noted in the manual)
- multi zones powering on incorrectly
- loss of OSD (generally after some repetitive resolution switching as far as I can tell)
- random save/load configuration failures

Id like to see improvements for
- virtual inputs (ability to assign physical inputs to more than one virtual input)
- temporary level gain controls (Integra style)
- options for surround mode defaults per input (preset, last valid, etc., Integra style)
- Dolby Volume

But still immensely satisfied with the sound quality of this component....

The manual's explanations for PLII Music controls (Panorama, Dimension, Center Width), also on p.124 with the Neo:X Center Gain, make no mention of which sources are applicable. I can assure you that the PLII controls only operate with 2-ch sources. This confirms my earlier conclusion this was the case for Center Gain.

P.123 does have the disclaimer: >>You can adjust the surround audio sound field effects to match your preferences. The items (parameters) that can be adjusted depend on the signal being input and the currently set sound mode.<< So that technically absolves them, but it would still be nice to have some info on page 124 noting they only work for 2-ch sources. If a fix is needed, it's the manual and not the product.

I'll take the temporary level gain controls along with independent music and movie configurations crossovers etc.., something I do miss from my Anthem avm20:D

Hi Joe,

1- thks ,
2- I now completely understand why you switched from a 4520 to a 8801 ² .

Hugo

I have the 791-44 Xantech connecting block. I assume any Xantech connecting block would work ok. The 789-44 also works.

I have the 789-44 and most systems I plug in direct with the mono cable do not work that way, so this is good to know.

Thanks

Doesn't it have it in a way already?
I haven't gotten mine yet, but my AV8003 remembers the last setting for the input.

I agree it could be great to be able to set it in the meny what default should be.

i resolved my logitech harmony one powering on all zones by having it learn the on/standby button from my original remote.

taught the button to power toggle, power on and power off. don't have any issues with it turning on all zones anymore.

i think the issue might have been with aftermarket remote controls using some older command that might have worked well for previous marantz prepros but not this one. might not be a marantz problem.

Except I've had the issue physically powering the unit from the front panel...

hmm that i have to look into, if thats the case, wow this unit has got quite some problems.

atleast i got my universal remote working, my biggest worry is wife turning it on and not knowing that its still on hours later

Mine is staying on the last surround mode chosen per input....if I'm understanding the concern correctly....

WIth the Integra 80.3, there was a menu item that let you choose the presets for each input - you could choose last valid used, or you could have it default to a specific surround mode every time that input was selected (if that specific default wasn't valid, I believe it then reverted to the last valid used). So if some particular program material sounded better with a rarely used mode that you otherwise didn't normally like, the next time you chose that input, the more common default you selected would be reactivated as opposed to the lesser used mode.

Believe me, not a game-changing option, but it was nice to have that level of control.

You need discrete codes to make re-selection of an existing input work.
Power toggles are no good.

- Rich

I just ordered the AV8801. I want to put it in my HT rack. Does anyone have the Marantz rack kit installed? any pictures installed in rack? Not sure if I should go with the Marantz kit or have Middle Atlantic make me a custom RSH faceplate.

I just got an 88 and have been debugging the connections. Thanks to all who have posted. The information everyone is providing is very useful.
I have a few questions/concerns/comments.

1. Concern: 10 seconds after the unit powers up from standby, I'll hear a tick/pop. It's loud enough to be annoying but just under the limit of what i'm willing to tolerate. All the external amps are ON at the time (and are not currently being driven by the DC triggers). Is this expected behavior?

2. Comment: I suspect this is not an 88 problem. I am hearing an appreciable amount of hum when I connect my cable DVR via HDMI (I've seen a few of the posts on this). Do I really have to use analog connections to avoid this? The box itself is plugged into the same circuit as the 88 but i see that the cable is grounded to a spike in the earth outside the house. I will try my Jensen ISO-MAX and my Furman IT Reference 20i to see if it clears up the problem and I'll report back.

3. Comment: I suspect this is also not an 88 problem but is interesting. When I connect my older RP DLP to the 88 via HDMI (it is on a different circuit), it also adds significantly to the noise level.

4. Question: Are multiple circuits from the same circuit panel guaranteed to have the same ground?

5. Question: The dc triggers have different amps. What does that mean to me (and Al Franken)?

Maybe someone is familiar with these issues and would care to comment? Thanks in advance for all the help.