I tried your suggestion to compare OPPO 105 HDMI versus 7.1 outs:
to me the 7.1 feed sounded better than the HDMI audio
Thanks for the feedback.
I am not sure if this is well known, but the video and audio source settings are stored per input.
I set the Blu-ray source to use the 7.1 input, turn off the video processing, and use Pure Direct.
I'm going to have to try them, your about the third person that said they sounded better. Is it a warmer sound or more dynamic?
It is warmer when using Pure Direct and disabling all video processing, including setting Video Mode to Game.
But, the big difference I find in Pure Direct is in the sound stage and overhang. I guess they made that mode for a reason
I have no need for processing in the Marantz since the Oppo can do all the audio processing I need on the 7.1 inputs and it does a great job on video.
While there is a difference indeed between feeding the 8801 hdmi/xlr or using the 7.1 inputs I cant say one indeed sounds better but shall we say presents the music different, After getting Audyssey dialed in to satifaction with mains set to 80hz and using Dynamic EQ the sound is indeed compelling vs. using the xlr from the 105 ( full range) which has what what can be called a "fuller" or "warmer" sound, but the 8801 + Audyssey for 2ch can have a pristine detailed deeper sound stage with even tighter bass definition ( not thin sounding at all) because of the use of the sub, both configuration have there merits and detractors of course but both sound extremely good and out shines the other depending on material. now using the 8801 hdmi with no Audyssey still retains a toe tapping midrange and drive and pace which again depending on material can hold its own against the 7.1( for stereo) or the xlr inputs. But hands down with multi ch sacd the hdmi 8801 + Audyssey is a beast!
I abandoned Harmony and all IR for that matter. Went to iRule and am controlling through the home network. Individual speaker up downs are available, as well as some limited feedback from the Marantz.
A bit of a learning curve - but the whole iRule project has gotten a very high WAF from she who must be obeyed.
I also abandoned IR control when I realized my plasma and CCFL LCD displays caused major IR interference and compromised IR control: an IR repeater made things worse
but it is a lot of work to set up and keep it working
While there is a difference indeed between feeding the 8801 hdmi/xlr or using the 7.1 inputs I cant say one indeed sounds better but shall we say presents the music different, After getting Audyssey dialed in to satifaction with mains set to 80hz and using Dynamic EQ the sound is indeed compelling vs. using the xlr from the 105 ( full range) which has what what can be called a "fuller" or "warmer" sound, but the 8801 + Audyssey for 2ch can have a pristine detailed deeper sound stage with even tighter bass definition ( not thin sounding at all) because of the use of the sub, both configuration have there merits and detractors of course but both sound extremely good and out shines the other depending on material. now using the 8801 hdmi with no Audyssey still retains a toe tapping midrange and drive and pace which again depending on material can hold its own against the 7.1( for stereo) or the xlr inputs. But hands down with multi ch sacd the hdmi 8801 + Audyssey is a beast!
I'll say it again, its nice to have options
Sounds good to me.
Now that I fixed some issues, and installed the Outlaw 7500 I love the sound.
I may try direct from the Oppo to the Amp, but Oppo recommends that the input impedance for directly connecting an amp to the 105 be 47k ohms.
Now that I fixed some issues, and installed the Outlaw 7500 I love the sound.
I may try direct from the Oppo to the Amp, but Oppo recommends that the input impedance for directly connecting an amp to the 105 be 47k ohms.
I also abandoned IR control when I realized my plasma and CCFL LCD displays caused major IR interference and compromised IR control: an IR repeater made things worse
but it is a lot of work to set up and keep it working
What did you replace it with?
an RTI system with touch pads and remotes
my second choice would be iRule: excellent program
I've been using an iPad mini with Roomie Remote. It does all the major stuff on the Marantz....but definitely not all inclusive. Missing STATUS as mentioned earlier I think, the Harmony was able to use an older Marantz code for that.
I turned my processor on today when I got home and it's not passing video or audio. I tried both monitor outputs. I checked the cable too. It's good. Any ideas? The front display is working properly, so I'm guessing I have menu access.
See if you can access the menu system using the LCD display make sure the HDMI output is set.
Try another cable.
If you have an HDMI computer monitor then try hooking it up.
I turned my processor on today when I got home and it's not passing video or audio. I tried both monitor outputs. I checked the cable too. It's good. Any ideas? The front display is working properly, so I'm guessing I have menu access.
First put it in standby, then unplug it. Wait 2-5 seconds, then plug it back in & turn it on &try again. IF IT DOESN'T WORK, it should though, try again. Lastly, fixed or not, call marantz & report your loss of HDMI signal. Exactly the same problems. I get these random loss of video. Either from standby or switching inputs on two different units. Please call & let them know. The more people report, they can fix it.
I cannot hear the difference in sending the status code to display information in the large LCD window while playing a source in Pure Direct Mode.
Not when it turns on, not when it turns off.
This is something you can try.
Perhaps there is a difference but not one I can detect.
I can hear the difference in Pure Direct mode turning Lip-Sync: Off, Video Mode: Game, Video Processing: Off.
Many cannot hear any difference between Pure Direct and Direct.
I hear one and prefer Pure Direct.
- Rich
At the risk of being redundant, the point was whether or not there is a command to do what you wanted (turn on the display in Pure Direct), not whether or not you can or believe you can hear a difference in any of that.
At the risk of being redundant, the point was whether or not there is a command to do what you wanted (turn on the display in Pure Direct), not whether or not you can or believe you can hear a difference in any of that
Actually, I was looking for a command to turn the circle display on while in Pure Direct mode so I could see the volume.
I couldn't find one and I programmed a bunch into my Pronto.
Plenty turned on the rectangle display.
In order to do this, I programmed volume up/down sequence.
The other point was illumination of these displays has no audible effect on the sound quality.
I really have no idea what point your point is.
Are you asking a question?
Who is using more than one zone? I would like to connect a 2nd room with dedicated system for 2.0 playback. Anyone doing the same? What connection did you use? I only see analog as my choice. I would have preferred to send it spdif, toslink or coax.
I have to agree, I love my 8801. I was on the hometheater forums and asked about the MM8077 amp. I was refered to a $300 stereo crown amp instead of the 8077. I think I will keep my order for the 8077 instead. Should be here soon.
I have to agree, I love my 8801. I was on the hometheater forums and asked about the MM8077 amp. I was refered to a $300 stereo crown amp instead of the 8077. I think I will keep my order for the 8077 instead. Should be here soon.
I have an Outlaw 7500 paired with the AV8801 and it sounds fantastic.
It is more powerful, no fans, and a great deal.
A little tougher on your back though
You might want to stay tuned for Mark's review.
I think he had the 8807 for a time.
If the crown was a drivecore, I will attest to it's capability. I have one now for my L/R and the thing is dead silent. They are pretty solid performers for sure, but alas, they are only 2 channel so you need several to get your whole system going. This is my second one I've owned and I see possibly more in my future for sure
I am using 3 amps now for an 11.1 system and am looking forward to reducing my amps to 2. I would prefer to not need 5. If that was the care I would just go with 11 mono-blocks.... not going to happen.
I am using 3 amps now for an 11.1 system and am looking forward to reducing my amps to 2. I would prefer to not need 5. If that was the care I would just go with 11 mono-blocks.... not going to happen.
LOL
I tried monoblocks several years ago and had significant hum issues
My Outlaw is on the truck for delivery today: I am resting up getting ready to do some heavy lifting
iPad definitely has more "real estate" than the iPhone. I ahve no experience with Roomie - but on iRule - you can set up both an iPad and an iPhone. I am guessing a mini would be the same as the iPad...only smaller
iRule is really very customizable - and] if you have done any object oriented programming its pretty easy to pick up. I gotta give a hand to their user support - i get fast answers off their website - very very good support.
iPad definitely has more "real estate" than the iPhone. I ahve no experience with Roomie - but on iRule - you can set up both an iPad and an iPhone. I am guessing a mini would be the same as the iPad...only smaller
iRule is really very customizable - and] if you have done any object oriented programming its pretty easy to pick up. I gotta give a hand to their user support - i get fast answers off their website - very very good support.
I tried monoblocks several years ago and had significant hum issues
My Outlaw is on the truck for delivery today: I am resting up getting ready to do some heavy lifting
wouldn't the humming issue be a problem with ground?
i've run many monoblocks at once, and never had a problem.
More than likely, the hum situation is still there, but the amps being used now are plugged in differently, or have lower gain, so the buzz/hum isn't as significant. I had pretty bad humm issues as well, but just looked at different ways to plug my amps in and all is well now
Spent an hour on the phone with Comcast Paid Support, they set a static ip for the 8801 and opened ports on the router with no joy. Marantz Support says they do not have the capability to connect down to the 8801 so the only option at this point is to have the unit serviced. So back to my dealer it goes.
I hope the rest of the folks who cannot connect have better luck!
My dealer Sound Advice brought out a new AV8001 and it would not connect either. So they took the new unit next door and on my neighbor's network it had no trouble connecting and downloading the updated firmware which means my network is the issue.
I spent several hours on the phone with Comcast's fee based support group who really know their stuff. Unfortunately after connecting to my network and applying all their tricks and tweaks the Marantz unit would still not connect through my Comcast Arris TG852G Telephony/Modem/Wireless Router. The fix was to purchase my own wireless router and then have the Arris put in bridge mode so I could use my Lynksys EA6500. After having the Comcast Modem put in bridge mode I ran the Lynksys install software and within 10 minutes all my network devices including the AV8801 were connecting flawlessly with solid fast signals.
So the moral of the story is if you have a Comcast Telephony Wireless Modem Router combo don't waste you time if your Marantz won't connect on its own. Get your own router, put the Comcast piece in bridge mode and connect with ease.
My dealer Sound Advice brought out a new AV8001 and it would not connect either. So they took the new unit next door and on my neighbor's network it had no trouble connecting and downloading the updated firmware which means my network is the issue.
I spent several hours on the phone with Comcast's fee based support group who really know their stuff. Unfortunately after connecting to my network and applying all their tricks and tweaks the Marantz unit would still not connect through my Comcast Arris TG852G Telephony/Modem/Wireless Router. The fix was to purchase my own wireless router and then have the Arris put in bridge mode so I could use my Lynksys EA6500. After having the Comcast Modem put in bridge mode I ran the Lynksys install software and within 10 minutes all my network devices including the AV8801 were connecting flawlessly with solid fast signals.
So the moral of the story is if you have a Comcast Telephony Wireless Modem Router combo don't waste you time if your Marantz won't connect on its own. Get your own router, put the Comcast piece in bridge mode and connect with ease.
Not sure if this helps. I have Comcast also, but I only use their modem and my own Netgear wifi router. I just upgraded routers to the newer WNDR4500 with good results.