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Marantz AV8801 Preamp/Processor Official Owner's thread - Page 143

post #4261 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

It is good that you did not hear a difference bi-amping.
You should not have. The only purpose would be to prevent clipping from the bass affecting the highs.

Sunfire amps are not easily clipped smile.gif

- Rich



I was actually wondering why you were going that route Rich. I think in my case the sound suffered so I went back to a single amp. I would love to hear how my speakers would sound bypassing the internal crossovers.
post #4262 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

Given that firmware updates are fairly rare - I have a perfect short-term solution for problems like this.

Buy a long ethernet cable (50 foot, or 100 foot, or whatever you need). And simply string it from your nearest physical ethernet connection directly to your Marantz. Just let the cable drape over the middle of the floor, the couch, the dining room table, whatever. Then - after the firmware update is done - remove the cable, bundle it back up, and put it back in the storage closest where it belongs.

I've actually done this a number of times when needing a "temporary" internet connection in a location in the house that just didn't want to play well with my wireless network or whatever the problem was.

Alternatively I guess you could always physically move the Marantz next to an ethernet hub - just for the amount of time it takes to do the update. You don't need an attached monitor to perform the update. The display window on the front of the Marantz gives you all the details you need to step through the firmware update. I just think "really long ethernet cable" is a simpler stop-gap measure.

I have so many devices in my home theater that need Ethernet connectivity that I snaked a CAT 6 cable to my hem theater. Beats WiFi and temporarily stringing Ethernet cables!
post #4263 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlxG View Post


Thanks Kal,

I was studying ARC (HDMI phase lock loop) circuit and find it very useful for clock recovery while minimizing jitter at bay. Do you feel AV8801 HDMI signal path is good enough for playing high res music, or do I have to rely on a much better Blu-Ray player via its analog path?

I do believe that it is good enough and, although there is better, it is what I use.

post #4264 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by denaliman View Post

Damn! i have no connection set up yet. I haven't figured out the best solution since I cannot run cat 5 cable directly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by randman View Post

I have so many devices in my home theater that need Ethernet connectivity that I snaked a CAT 6 cable to my hem theater. Beats WiFi and temporarily stringing Ethernet cables!

I agree with you entirely Randman. I was trying to offer alternatives to denaliman (see quote above) - who for some reason couldn't run a direct ethernet route but still wanted a firmware update.

I used to have a wireless bridge-mode router in my home theater setup, but replaced it by running an ethernet cable and adding an 8-port Monoprice hub to give more bandwidth and a more reliable connection. You're right. Every device wants an ethernet connection these days...
post #4265 of 5722
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosano View Post

Not sure if its been answered but does anyone know what issues / features the new update does? I did it by the way with no issues.

Thanks

I will update the first post as soon as I have this information.
post #4266 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

I have the XLR assigned, COAX, HDMI, and 7.1 all assigned to the Blu-ray input.
I switch by sending the direct input codes from my Pronto.
Switching is <1 second so it is very easy to compare without delay.
I stand by my observations.

What makes you think that Pure Direct does not digitize the XLR inputs.
Bass management and all other features work.
Did you open the case and observe the path of the bits? wink.gif
The manual is vague.

- Rich

Obviously your observations are in question due to the fact you stated you have sub output via the XLR input while in "Pure direct " which is why I suggested using the 8801's remote and confirming that its indeed in "Pure direct" it may also have something to do with my using the CD input and assigning the XLR input there! who knows! but the fact remains there's no sub. And as previously stated its the closest in sound next to running the Oppo105 direct to the amp that alone should tell you something as you've tried it as well, all i can say is try it or not and don't use the game mode as its "digitized" as well tongue.gif
post #4267 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

I looked in the dust and could not find your sound tongue.gif

- Rich

Sounds to me you should've gotten a preamp with a hometheater bypass say a P7 or such, do to the fact 90% of what the 8801 is capable of in your setup is not used rolleyes.gif proper setup and patience have put my setup in the SOTA and my ears are reaping the benifits and as soon as the 'Dust ' settles you can find your way to sonic nirvana biggrin.gif
post #4268 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post

Sounds to me you should've gotten a preamp with a hometheater bypass say a P7 or such, do to the fact 90% of what the 8801 is capable of in your setup is not used rolleyes.gif proper setup and patience have put my setup in the SOTA and my ears are reaping the benifits and as soon as the 'Dust ' settles you can find your way to sonic nirvana biggrin.gif

Honestly, if the P7H came with HD format decoding an 6 HDMI inputs, and black, I would be on it.

- Rich
post #4269 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

Honestly, if the P7H came with HD format decoding an 6 HDMI inputs, and black, I would be on it.

- Rich

Just let the 105 handle the HD codecs, all you'll need now is an hdmi switcther and can of matte black spray paint ( use proper ventilation) and your home free biggrin.gif
post #4270 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post

Sounds to me you should've gotten a preamp with a hometheater bypass say a P7 or such, do to the fact 90% of what the 8801 is capable of in your setup is not used rolleyes.gif proper setup and patience have put my setup in the SOTA and my ears are reaping the benifits and as soon as the 'Dust ' settles you can find your way to sonic nirvana biggrin.gif

I was thinking the same thing - glad you mentioned it. That's why my sonic nirvana is to find the best hdmi implementation possible. Otherwise, a P7 would be ideal.

Dave
post #4271 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

Given that firmware updates are fairly rare - I have a perfect short-term solution for problems like this.

Buy a long ethernet cable (50 foot, or 100 foot, or whatever you need). And simply string it from your nearest physical ethernet connection directly to your Marantz. Just let the cable drape over the middle of the floor, the couch, the dining room table, whatever. Then - after the firmware update is done - remove the cable, bundle it back up, and put it back in the storage closest where it belongs.

I've actually done this a number of times when needing a "temporary" internet connection in a location in the house that just didn't want to play well with my wireless network or whatever the problem was.

Alternatively I guess you could always physically move the Marantz next to an ethernet hub - just for the amount of time it takes to do the update. You don't need an attached monitor to perform the update. The display window on the front of the Marantz gives you all the details you need to step through the firmware update. I just think "really long ethernet cable" is a simpler stop-gap measure.

I have considered the long cable approach. My ethernet is on the second floor where my home office is, my HT is in the basement on the opposite side of the house. My 8801 is in my middle atlantic rack so it's not that east to get to and pull out.
post #4272 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by denaliman View Post

I have considered the long cable approach. My ethernet is on the second floor where my home office is, my HT is in the basement on the opposite side of the house. My 8801 is in my middle atlantic rack so it's not that east to get to and pull out.

Can you use one of the power line Ethernet products?

- Rich
post #4273 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by denaliman View Post

I have considered the long cable approach. My ethernet is on the second floor where my home office is, my HT is in the basement on the opposite side of the house. My 8801 is in my middle atlantic rack so it's not that east to get to and pull out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

Can you use one of the power line Ethernet products?
I have employed NetGear PowerLine AV200 adapter's (4 total) in multiple rooms within my house, it actually has functioned pretty good for me (better than I thought it would). I have three separate systems, in separate rooms, linked by AV200's, to one Linksys router. I even have NetGear switches connected to AV200's, which then multiple components are daisy-chained from.
post #4274 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlxG View Post

Thanks Kal,

I was studying ARC (HDMI phase lock loop) circuit and find it very useful for clock recovery while minimizing jitter at bay. Do you feel AV8801 HDMI signal path is good enough for playing high res music, or do I have to rely on a much better Blu-Ray player via its analog path?

http://us.marantz.com/DocumentMaster/US/mz_av8801_u_eng_bg001.pdf

While not stating it is ARC compliant, there i mention of:
Hybrid PLL jitter reducer for accurate audio clock
post #4275 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post


I have employed NetGear PowerLine AV200 adapter's (4 total) in multiple rooms within my house, it actually has functioned pretty good for me (better than I thought it would). I have three separate systems, in separate rooms, linked by AV200's, to one Linksys router. I even have NetGear switches connected to AV200's, which then multiple components are daisy-chained from.

That sound good.
I ran a Cat-6 and have a FIOS via gig Ethernet/FIOS wired to all fixed computers and to
the entertainment system:
  • 8-port Netgear switch connecting the following:
  • ASUS Wireless N router
  • AV8801
  • TiVo Premiere
  • Oppo BDP-105
  • Oppo BDP-95
  • Apple TV
  • Dune HD
  • HTPC

It is amazing how this list has grown over the years.
I also have an outdoor Wireless G routine (hardwired) in the Garage attic so I can listen to music while blowing Snow (sometime for hours).

I keep the wireless reserved for portable devise: 4 iPads, 2 iPhones, and two laptops, and the visitors.

These days, someone has to become the Home IT specialist smile.gif

- Rich
post #4276 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

That sound good.
I ran a Cat-6 and have a FIOS via gig Ethernet/FIOS wired to all fixed computers and to
the entertainment system:
  • 8-port Netgear switch connecting the following:
  • ASUS Wireless N router
  • AV8801
  • TiVo Premiere
  • Oppo BDP-105
  • Oppo BDP-95
  • Apple TV
  • Dune HD
  • HTPC

It is amazing how this list has grown over the years.
I also have an outdoor Wireless G routine (hardwired) in the Garage attic so I can listen to music while blowing Snow (sometime for hours).

I keep the wireless reserved for portable devise: 4 iPads, 2 iPhones, and two laptops, and the visitors.

These days, someone has to become the Home IT specialist smile.gif

- Rich



So you have the switch coupled to your router via one Ethernet connection Rich?
post #4277 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by comfynumb View Post

So you have the switch coupled to your router via one Ethernet connection Rich?

I disconnected the FIOS router and have them activate the Ethernet jack (No coax).
In the basement, I have a Cisco RV042 router handling all DHCP and no other device dolling out IPs.
This device is also setup as a VPN which works very well with my iPhone and remote desktop connections (no need to pay for GoToMyPC).

The RV042 connects to a 24 port (dumb) switch that serves the entire house.
This has mostly home run connection except to the home entertainment center where the 8-port Netgear Pro-safe switch is used.

I did the wiring when we bought the house and renovated.
I have two more TiVo's and BD players setup in other rooms with NetGear 4-port switches for each.

I am three switches deep in some cases, and never have any problems achieving giga-bit speed.
I reserve wireless for portable devices since switches are cheap and fishing1 home run per entertainment system was not difficult.

- Rich
post #4278 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

I disconnected the FIOS router and have them activate the Ethernet jack (No coax).
In the basement, I have a Cisco RV042 router handling all DHCP and no other device dolling out IPs.
This device is also setup as a VPN which works very well with my iPhone and remote desktop connections (no need to pay for GoToMyPC).

The RV042 connects to a 24 port (dumb) switch that serves the entire house.
This has mostly home run connection except to the home entertainment center where the 8-port Netgear Pro-safe switch is used.

I did the wiring when we bought the house and renovated.
I have two more TiVo's and BD players setup in other rooms with NetGear 4-port switches for each.

I am three switches deep in some cases, and never have any problems achieving giga-bit speed.
I reserve wireless for portable devices since switches are cheap and fishing1 home run per entertainment system was not difficult.

- Rich



It sounds complicated.
post #4279 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by comfynumb View Post

It sounds complicated.

Setting up the RV42 was but just used the supplied router from your IPS.

From there on use Gigabit switches.

I think the new ones are fine but my 4-year-old NetGear 24-port switch slowed down 100mb connections even though it was Gigabit.

From there on, find a way to home run to your entertainment system wired: Either Ethernet or power-line.
Use a switch to connect all stationary devices.
Reserve wireless for stuff that moves.

- Rich
post #4280 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woof Woof View Post


http://us.marantz.com/DocumentMaster/US/mz_av8801_u_eng_bg001.pdf

While not stating it is ARC compliant, there i mention of:
Hybrid PLL jitter reducer for accurate audio clock

Not the same thing.  PLL is often used for this purpose with HDMI and other links.  ARC requires both the source and receiver to be compliant.

post #4281 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post


I disconnected the FIOS router and have them activate the Ethernet jack (No coax).

My apartment is wired for coax and, as it is constructed of reinforced concrete, retrofitting with CAT5/6 would be a nightmare.  So, I kept the FIOS router and use MOCA taps wherever I need ethernet.  Works quite well.

 

I ran CAT6 in my woodframe house (basement access) with equal results.

post #4282 of 5722
Wowser. One of my good friends tried to do the update Thursday night and it has been stuck in update mode ever since! eek.gif

Two calls into them has not helped get it out of update mode. Both had him try something different. I guess they said the servers have been very busy and many are taking a long time to update. Just letting everyo e know here. I suggest doing it at midnight.... If at all...
post #4283 of 5722
In some cases, when having difficulty with a firmware update, it is indeed best to wait for a few days after the initial release as the D&M servers can be overloaded in the first few days.
post #4284 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

Not the same thing.  PLL is often used for this purpose with HDMI and other links.  ARC requires both the source and receiver to be compliant.

I think this is similar to ASRC used on Benchmark DACs. Not sure if it is standard on other AVRs
post #4285 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

My apartment is wired for coax and, as it is constructed of reinforced concrete, retrofitting with CAT5/6 would be a nightmare.  So, I kept the FIOS router and use MOCA taps wherever I need ethernet.  Works quite well.

I ran CAT6 in my woodframe house (basement access) with equal results.

MoCa is good.

I eliminate their router because I use TiVo's and wanted a VPN router (and did not want two separate networks),
Also, My basement was the wrong place for the wireless.

Unfortunately, whenever you change a router, you have to call tech support to get them to initialize that ONT thingy.

IMO, any wire is better than any wireless for a fixed device.

- Rich
post #4286 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

In some cases, when having difficulty with a firmware update, it is indeed best to wait for a few days after the initial release as the D&M servers can be overloaded in the first few days.

Indeed. It can be like a crapshoot sometimes.

Any advice on getting it out of update mode?
post #4287 of 5722
Joe,

I was updating a Denon AVR that did this a few months ago and there was a fix listed in the manual. You had to do a factory reset to the unit in order to make it responsive again (and lose all your settings).
post #4288 of 5722
Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

Indeed. It can be like a crapshoot sometimes.

Any advice on getting it out of update mode?

If it is like most devices, hold the power button until it powers off.
Of course, in update mode, that should not be dangerous, but wink.gif


- Rich
post #4289 of 5722
Thanks guys. I'm here now and no luck. I also tried to hold the game and sleep with the power button and the music and movies with the power button (their suggestions) with no luck. There has to be away to get this out of this loop. Hard to believe it is locked up like this. Keeps going to 14% then starting over. Connected directly into the router.

eek.gif
post #4290 of 5722
IMO the 8801 needs to be rebooted occasionally. I found that unplugging it for 30 seconds while it's turned on and plugging it back in greatly improves it's response time for settings and updates. I've had zero incidents others have reported. After all it is a computer.
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