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Marantz AV8801 Preamp/Processor Official Owner's thread - Page 147

post #4381 of 11327

Just Received my AV8801 and installed it over the weekend. At the moment, I'm running 2CH with a sub.

I use both an Oppo BDP-95 and a Cambridge 751BD. So far I've watched parts of a concert and listened to some music.  My first impressions have so far been excellent and very happy with my purchase.  The concert through the Oppo sounded amazing.

However, I do have a concern with the loss of video signal across a number of sources. I believe, but have yet to confirm, that the loss of video is contained to both my blu-ray players. In saying that, when I first installed the marantz, nearing the end of the end when setting up my sources, I received an invalid source input or unsupported input, can't remember the exact message, and the screen blanked out.  I had to turn off the marantz in order to recover the video signal. I have a set top box and a media player connected to the marantz but they don't seem to experience any video loss.

With both my blu-ray players, I'm having to change sources on the remote from one input to another to eventually get my video back. At times, the video will return straight away, other times it may take more than several attempts in source changing before the video signal returns.

I have all my connected devices to the AV8801 set to 1080p and 24p to Auto.  Would 24p cause an issue?  Prior to my AV8801, I had an Integra 80.2.  I've never had this problem when my devices were connected to my integra receiver but now experience video problems with the marantz.  I am still trying to determine if the unsupported error message was produced by the Marantz or the Sony TV.  Has anyone experienced this?

I thought that this may be an upscaling issue and have disabled the IP scaler and up conversion but my problems remain.

Cheers for your help in advance.

 

Update: The loss of Video happens across all connected devices. I have to keep changing from one source to another until I finally get a picture.  Even when I go into setup mode on the AV8801, the screen blanks. Is there a video setting I'm missing or could there be an actual hardware problem with the Marantz. I would have expected the marantz, like any other receiver I've had in the past to turn on and switch between sources without any problems.


Edited by pasadena - 3/26/13 at 6:53am
post #4382 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by pinoy ako View Post

Does anyone paired this with new Marantz NA-11S1 network audio player?
Thanks a lot.

I'm not sure why you would want to do that when the 8801 does a fair bit of duplication in functions as the 11S1
post #4383 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

I hate to say it but that is a good gameplan. I have since received 3 or 4 emails from my website from others who have had their 8801s go into a coma from attempting this update. I am going with the "Only fools rush in where angels fear to tread" attitude for now on with updates for my 8801.

I wish the others a speedy recover for their 8801. Hang in there. At least they should be 100% covered under warranty (3 years)...

I updated mine Sunday morning around 12:30am. It went into authenticating. When I check it 9 hours later it was still flashing Authenticating. Pulled the plug and it reset. Now when I go to the update page it is not looking for the update. How do I tell if the update worked?
post #4384 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr_Mark View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

I hate to say it but that is a good gameplan. I have since received 3 or 4 emails from my website from others who have had their 8801s go into a coma from attempting this update. I am going with the "Only fools rush in where angels fear to tread" attitude for now on with updates for my 8801.

I wish the others a speedy recover for their 8801. Hang in there. At least they should be 100% covered under warranty (3 years)...

I updated mine Sunday morning around 12:30am. It went into authenticating. When I check it 9 hours later it was still flashing Authenticating. Pulled the plug and it reset. Now when I go to the update page it is not looking for the update. How do I tell if the update worked?

go into menu/ information and scroll down to see firmware info
post #4385 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by markrubin View Post


just a few hints I have learned with Denon/ Marantz wired ethernet firmware updates:

--save your settings to your pc
--disconnect any connection to RS232 port(s): they are shared with ethernet port
--Internet Explorer seems to work best: twice as fast as using FF (when using a browser)
--run wired ethernet direct to your router if possible so as to bypass switches/ connected devices
--disconnect any devices from 8801 ethernet ports
--run 8801 network diagnostics: you must have 3 OK's
--select 'start update' rather than' check for update' (if sure there is an update available)
-- wait until others have reported success before attempting updates: attempt firmware updates during off peak hours

updated guidelines: please let me know if I missed anything
post #4386 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by TL5 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I use it daily, and it works flawlessly. You are still going to have a seperate volume control inside airplay, but you should be able to adjust this to an appropriate level where your AVR's level will default to when selecting the airplay device. For instance, I have my airplay volume set at about halfway down, so if I turn on my AVR and then press play to have some tunes, it automatically changes the AVR to -47dB, and then I use the marantz app if I want to adjust it up or down from there. the -47dB is just a good average starting point smile.gif

Thanks for the info. So are you saying whatever the volume is set at it iTunes (in your example -47db) that's the starting point when you first activate airplay, and the volume on the Marantz takes it from there? I'm just trying to determine if there are in fact two volume controls active at one time - the one in the Marantz and the level control in iTunes. That's something I don't want - especially if the iTunes volume control is digital.

Well, yes, there are both volume controls in play at the same time, but the volume control in your Remote app, or itunes anchors to the marantz's volume control so they work in sync (most of the time). The only thing I do is to make sure I don't turn on the AVR and the standalone Itunes volume is maxed, is to set the automatic iTunes volume rocker at close to 50% so that equates to around -50dB or -40dB's on the marantz when it powers up. After I have both going though, I always use the marantz app's volume rockers to adjust the different zone's volumes as it just seems a little easier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zuluwalker View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by TL5 View Post

Just wondering how Airplay works (and sounds!) on the 8801. I have been using my Squeezebox Classic for streaming itunes - anybody compare this to Airplay in the 8801? One thing I'm trying to figure out: If I want to stream itunes from my PC to the AV8801 & use the Apple remote app on my Touch, what controls volume? Doesn't itunes have it's own volume? If so, is there a way to change it to "fixed" so I don't have both the itunes & 8801's volume controls active?

We can do that!?! Sweet mother of pearl...I need to try this!

You should!!! Walk in the door, press play and be ready to rock! It is killer with the addition of AppleTV's on your secondary systems, then you have whole home audio, all from Itunes smile.gif
post #4387 of 11327

How reliable is the Marantz, a friend of mine had to exchange his twice!

post #4388 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by wse View Post

How reliable is the Marantz, a friend of mine had to exchange his twice!

 

What was the problem on both occasions?

post #4389 of 11327
It sounds like Marantz may need more servers.
Edited by comfynumb - 3/26/13 at 9:10am
post #4390 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

Wow, A Sunfire gets hot. I have never had more than warm, but mine was in an open credenza.
Also, I find it is less dusty to blow away from the equipment.

- Rich



Mine is is on a a stand with the 8801 next to it. If I run it at a fairly high volume for about half hour it will get pretty warm back by the toggle switch.
post #4391 of 11327
I have the Outlaw 990 which at some point needed a firmware update an i thought it was a bit problematic understanding the directions so i decided NOT to do the update for fear that I would have a bigger problem on my hands so I left we'll enough alone. Recently I had made the decision to purchase another processor since the 990 seems to be well outdated. I can say that in the time it was a very good processor and I am glad I purchased the 990.
I am keeping my 7700 amp from Outlaw and I will make a decision between the Marantz 7701 and the 8801. I have six channels that I am using and while the 8801 is an impressive piece of equipment I can't get pass the idea that some of what the 8801 offers I would not be utilizing. Two of my friends have the Integra 80.3. They love it. They have Paradigm and Focal speakers. The model numbers I do not remember. I myself have dare I say B&W 804S speakers and reading what people are using for equipment with these speakers or any B&W speaker it seems Marantz,Rotel and MacIntosh are the processors and receivership being used.
Reading about these problems about 2 channel and a firmware update make me a bit nervous to pull the trigger with Marantz. Updates should be as simple as plug n play in my opinion.
All of this said comparing the 8801 & 7701 what would be the smartest decision to make when choosing?
$3600 is a bit steep compared to $1300 with a $300 trade in for my Outlaw 990.

Thanks
post #4392 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

You should always follow the natural flow of hot air and don't work against it. This means, instead of blowing into it (against the natural flow) sucking out the air thus supporting that flow.
If you blow the hot air into the unit you are distributing the temperature rise even further into places where it didn't happen before.

I have to disagree with this one. Or at least clarify. Maybe you're using a "closed" cabinet vented by fans? In that situation, I would agree with what you said. Work with the natural air-flow to move more air through the components. In that case, the idea would be to simply move air through the cabinet. So "pulling" air out the top would make the most sense both for increased air-flow and letting hot-air rise. In addition if you could "push" air into the bottom of the cabinet - below the components (assuming you are already "pulling" air with fans out the top) - that would probably be even better.

But - I use an open-air rack (solid shelves with supports at the four corners attaching to the next shelf). So it's open on all four sides. When two of my amps started shutting down from over-heating, I added two fans - one for each amp. Originally, I had them pointing "away" from the amps (but still lined up with the heat sinks and almost touching the amps), to try to "pull" air over and away from the heat sinks. It didn't help at all. The problem is with open-air racks, there is no control over where the air is pulled from. There is no detectable breeze "behind" the fan. When I reversed the fans to blow across the heat-sinks, it worked. The temperature of the amps lowered and they haven't shut themselves off since then. And there is now a warm breeze coming through the front of the amplifier rack, as the fans are located in back, blowing the hot air forward - off the amps and into the room. Combined with the heat generated by the 60" plasma TV, and frankly the front of the room seems to be populated by various space heaters.
post #4393 of 11327
I always pull the heat out which still sucks cool air in along with more dust
post #4394 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

I have to disagree with this one. Or at least clarify. Maybe you're using a "closed" cabinet vented by fans? In that situation, I would agree with what you said. Work with the natural air-flow to move more air through the components. In that case, the idea would be to simply move air through the cabinet. So "pulling" air out the top would make the most sense both for increased air-flow and letting hot-air rise. In addition if you could "push" air into the bottom of the cabinet - below the components (assuming you are already "pulling" air with fans out the top) - that would probably be even better.

But - I use an open-air rack (solid shelves with supports at the four corners attaching to the next shelf). So it's open on all four sides. When two of my amps started shutting down from over-heating, I added two fans - one for each amp. Originally, I had them pointing "away" from the amps (but still lined up with the heat sinks and almost touching the amps), to try to "pull" air over and away from the heat sinks. It didn't help at all. The problem is with open-air racks, there is no control over where the air is pulled from. There is no detectable breeze "behind" the fan. When I reversed the fans to blow across the heat-sinks, it worked. The temperature of the amps lowered and they haven't shut themselves off since then. And there is now a warm breeze coming through the front of the amplifier rack, as the fans are located in back, blowing the hot air forward - off the amps and into the room. Combined with the heat generated by the 60" plasma TV, and frankly the front of the room seems to be populated by various space heaters.



I actually use two floor fans and blow cool air right on my gear. So I'm with you. What's the difference if your sucking out or blowing in? If you suck out your still creating a "breeze" inside the unit. I saw someone post his opinion that blowing air on your gear heats up the circuit boards and I was wondering what people thought on here.
post #4395 of 11327
My 8801 sits on an open rack on the top shelf more than 12" from the rear wall and the temp is can reach 101 to 102 with no AC blowing ( as its still winter rolleyes.gif) or the rooms air purifier with the purifier on and say the ceiling fan its about 97-98, this at the rear of the unit directly on top of the hdmi board else where the temp is 95-97 , I do leave it on for 3-4 days at a time but when idle I leave it in the Pure direct mode to bypass as mush hdmi processing as possible I don't use my 8801 to process video signals I go direct to the display . whats everyone else temps look like?
post #4396 of 11327
I'm not sure about my exact temps, but it gets warmer than my prior pre/pro and as warm as some AVR's I've had. That's why I figured it can't hurt to cool it a little.
post #4397 of 11327
Wow my 4520 don't even get that warm
post #4398 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by a1usedcomp View Post

Wow my 4520 don't even get that warm

This temp was taken directly above the board as it sits at the rear of the unit with the vent holes above the board, the thermometer was less than an inch away! other than that it runs fairly cool!
post #4399 of 11327
For those that are getting these fans, how are you supplying the power?

I want to add a fan or two, but I only want the fan on when the system is on.
post #4400 of 11327
I have both of my fans plugged into one of these -

http://www.walmart.com/ip/21099388?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=&wl3=21486607510&wl4=&wl5=pla&veh=sem

- a foot-switch extension cord. And it's plugged directly into the wall. All of my AV components are plugged into a shared power conditioner, but I handle the fans separately. They just plug into this foot-switch, and the foot-switch goes straight into the wall.

This way - I just step on the foot-switch to turn on the fans. I put the switch just under the front of my AV rack, since I'm already walking over to turn my amps on anyway (the amps require manual switching - they don't have triggers...).
Edited by Bill222 - 3/26/13 at 2:58pm
post #4401 of 11327
Here a couple of USB fans you can buy on Amazon.
These would be naturally switched when plugged into the USB port on the back of the AV8801.

Here is one that you just position and go:

http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-USB-Powered-Portable-Cooling-Solution/dp/B003XN24GY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1364335463&sr=1-2&keywords=USB+fan

Here is a larger one from Coolerguys:

http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-120mm-Cabinet-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B002MZ5ZLK/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1364335463&sr=1-14&keywords=USB+fan

USB is the way to go.

- Rich
post #4402 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

I have both of my fans plugged into one of these -

http://www.walmart.com/ip/21099388?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=&wl3=21486607510&wl4=&wl5=pla&veh=sem

- a foot-switch extension cord. And it's plugged directly into the wall. All of my AV components are plugged into a shared power conditioner, but I handle the fans separately. They just plug into this foot-switch, and the foot-switch goes straight into the wall.

This way - I just step on the foot-switch to turn on the fans. I put the switch just under the front of my AV rack, since I'm already walking over to turn my amps on anyway (the amps require manual switching - they don't have triggers...).



That's a good idea smile.gif
post #4403 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

Here a couple of USB fans you can buy on Amazon.
These would be naturally switched when plugged into the USB port on the back of the AV8801.

...

USB is the way to go.

- Rich

I have heard people grumble about putting fans (brushless fans?) on the same power as that used by the rest of your AV system. They claimed it could introduce noise? Or bad magical-vibes that would impact the sound quality of your system? I think they would definitely be unhappy to hear of USB-driven fans run directly by the AV8801 - but I have no idea the actual basis for the objections.

Are any of those objectors present to explain the issue?

Along those same lines - I have an HTPC plugged into the same conditioner used by the rest of my AV system. And that HTPC has a fan inside of it. Is the fan in my HTPC going to cause those same problems that an indentical, "external" fan would if plugged into my AV system?
post #4404 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

I have heard people grumble about putting fans (brushless fans?) on the same power as that used by the rest of your AV system. They claimed it could introduce noise? Or bad magical-vibes that would impact the sound quality of your system? I think they would definitely be unhappy to hear of USB-driven fans run directly by the AV8801 - but I have no idea the actual basis for the objections.

Are any of those objectors present to explain the issue?

Along those same lines - I have an HTPC plugged into the same conditioner used by the rest of my AV system. And that HTPC has a fan inside of it. Is the fan in my HTPC going to cause those same problems that an indentical, "external" fan would if plugged into my AV system?

I suppose that could be a problem.
I an open backed cabinet in a vacation house, I used a smart power strip and a plug in USB power supply to drive two fans when the system is powered on.
I have haven't had any problems with that setup.

- Rich
post #4405 of 11327
Hi guys,

I need some help entering the high-end.

I'm thinking about getting the AV8801 and using two Emotiva XPA-5's and one XPA-3 for power. This gives me the 11 channels and two sub channels or use powered subs and keep those as spare channels for the future.

I really want the AV8801 mainly for the true 11.2 XLR outputs. I probably don't need most of the other features it has (higher res DAC) so please let me know if there is a cheaper alternative that provides two 11.2 XLR outputs.

Will the AV8801 work well with the Emotiva XPA amps?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Adrian
post #4406 of 11327
ppcguru

Even if you aren't into some of the "features", I would still highly recommend it to anyone that wants a very good sound.
post #4407 of 11327
Does Middle Atlantic make a custom face plate for the 8801 yet? it looks like the 7701 faceplate will not fit properly.
post #4408 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by ppcguru View Post

Hi guys,

I need some help entering the high-end.

I'm thinking about getting the AV8801 and using two Emotiva XPA-5's and one XPA-3 for power. This gives me the 11 channels and two sub channels or use powered subs and keep those as spare channels for the future.

I really want the AV8801 mainly for the true 11.2 XLR outputs. I probably don't need most of the other features it has (higher res DAC) so please let me know if there is a cheaper alternative that provides two 11.2 XLR outputs.

Will the AV8801 work well with the Emotiva XPA amps?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Adrian

I ran an XPA-5 off it for a few months, so yes it works well. Are you planning on moving the amps pretty far from the 8801? If not there is no real reason to run XLR's.
post #4409 of 11327
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP View Post

Does Middle Atlantic make a custom face plate for the 8801 yet? it looks like the 7701 faceplate will not fit properly.

Getgray created one and its perfect. Get in touch with him here on the forum. He can sell you one.
post #4410 of 11327
Yes, I saw the pics of that one, looks like a nice finish, but I do not like how the 8801 sticks out of it. I prefer the flush style mount the Middle Atlantic gives.
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