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Marantz AV8801 Preamp/Processor Official Owner's thread - Page 149

post #4441 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by comfynumb View Post

That's what my other pre/pre and avr did. I must have missed a setting.

Unless you're sending LPCM or mch analog from the player to the processor then the processor just plays it straight through without any decoding necessary.
post #4442 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by whoaru99 View Post

Unless you're sending LPCM or mch analog from the player to the processor then the processor just plays it straight through without any decoding necessary.



Maybe I changed my Oppo's settings.
post #4443 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve71 View Post

I'm going to have some pretty long runs, so I think it makes sense to run XLR cables from the pre-pro to the amp (behind the screen) rather than seven long runs of speaker wire.

My amp is fully balanced, but I don't think I'm prepared to shell out for a fully balanced pre-pro. Besides I want to try an eleven ch setup and I believe the marantz-av8801 is the only pre-pro with that many channels.

Not trying to tell you what to do, but why would you want to run the xlrs over the speaker wire?

The speaker wire is carrying a significantly stronger signal, is less prone to noise and interference and should be cheaper with sanely-priced 12-14g then a dozen "x" long xlrs.

James
post #4444 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by comfynumb View Post

Is there a setting on the 8801 that let's the surround mode automatically match up to the DVDs audio soundtrack?

On the Marantz:

Setup Menu --> Inputs --> Input Select --> Decode Mode

Decode Mode should be "Auto" for what you're asking for.

On that same screen, you probably want "Input Mode" to also be "Auto".

If that doesn't fix the issue - please describe the issue.

While playing the disc in your Oppo, click the Oppo's INFO (i) button - to display what the Oppo thinks it's sending.

After that Oppo info clears off the screen (but while the disc is still playing), on the Marantz, go to:

Setup Menu --> General --> Information --> Audio

to see what the Marantz thinks it's receiving (Input Signal) and how the Marantz has chosen to process it (Sound Mode).
post #4445 of 11305
I got mine today and love it! It replaces a Sony 6400ES AVR, which I was using as a pre/pro with my Parasound A51. The 8801 just trounces it! Far warmer yet also more detailed, and the Audyssey EQ makes a huge improvement. I originally intended to go the purist route, but I went ahead and went for the calibration, and man, it made a huge improvement. The sound is far more present and detailed with the Audyssey EQ turned on. However, I don't use the dynamic EQ or volume. Highly recommended.
__________________
post #4446 of 11305
When I crank a TV-show Blu-ray (such as Justified, Season 1) up to the "0" volume level (on a scale of -80 to +20), the Audyssey corrected HDMI-based signal sounds harsh to me. When I switch over to the 7.1 RCA inputs from the Oppo player, I prefer their sound. But I don't think I noticed the harshness at quieter levels.
post #4447 of 11305
Question for Oppo users who prefer (or sometimes prefer) the 7.1 RCA inputs over the HDMI sound through the Marantz - do your speaker configurations match in the Marantz and in the Oppo?

I was often preferring my 7.1 RCA inputs - but now I realize I was "cheating". When using HDMI through the Marantz, besides Audyssey correction, I also had "proper" bass management - that is - all speakers set to small and cross-overs set based on the particular speaker. But - when using the RCA inputs from the Oppo BDP-105 - I forgot to correct the settings in the Oppo. I forgot the Oppo has its own set of speaker config settings - settings only used for the 7.1 RCA analog outputs. And in those settings my front speakers were still set to "Large".

So maybe the difference I was hearing was more a factor of "Large" speaker sound from the Oppo vs "Small" speaker sound from the Marantz instead of the Audyssey processing in the Marantz. So maybe I really just prefer "Large" speaker settings for the front. Time for more testing for me between 7.1 RCA and HDMI after I make sure the speaker config settings and distances are configured the same in both the Oppo settings and the Marantz settings...
post #4448 of 11305
I'm jumping on this bandwagon. I ordered mine from Soundvideo and it'll be here Monday. Special thanks to Audiofan1, Joerod, and many others for the candid comments and review of the 8801. Thanks as well to Kal for his professional review and his numerous comments on the merits of room correction. Once I have it set up I will also share my perceptions of the sound quality using a BDP-95 and in comparison with my Aragon Soundstage. The Soundstage was the only processor I ever encountered that convinced me not to have a dedicated stereo preamp on the mains. The 8801 has some big shoes to fill. All the positive comments in this thread from people who are using serious equipment are encouraging. Thanks again to all who took this plunge before me and shared the experience. I bought a Nuforce 83 and the 95 based on experiences and opinions posted on AVS. No disappointments yet!

On a side note @ Bill222, I also use all Aragon amplification. One XLR Palladium feeds each of the five full range channels and six channels of two 8008BBX3 amps drive twelve sub voice coils for the .6. Obviously the electrical requirement is non-trivial. This system sounded great on three 120V circuits but I had to chase down ground loop and hum problems and occasionally experienced noise through the system generated by outside sources like fluorescent light ballasts. I believe those minor pops were a major factor in the destruction of a number of B&W tweeter coils/diaphragms. They're not cheap and they never blew with a small pop in the system but seemed to suffer latent damage. I considered major power cleaners like the Furman but decided on a different solution. I installed four 240V two pole dedicated circuits that run my entire system. There is also a large toroidal transformer that transforms the 240 into a differential 60-0-60 for those 120V components that are not easily converted to 240. You can't believe the improvement in the sound. Better still, I've yet to pop another tweeter diaphragm in spite of 650 watt peaks during parties. I also never trip circuit breakers now. Zero hum and noise. Zero issues having to chase noise gremlins to arrive at zero hum and noise. The only downside is a visit from the police who were peevish at 03:30 but didn't cite me. If this idea sounds good to you, know that your Aragon amps are converted to 240V by simply removing the fuse block on the rear panel and adjusting the voltage selector. Plus you need to cut the fuse value in half but fuses are cheap. You have enough amplification to warrant a serious power delivery setup. My system sounds better even at low volume now.

I was all set to buy $1000 power cords for each component when I discovered almost 3/4 of a mile of transmission line between my house and the huge substation nearby. Then I found another 30 some odd miles of nasty aluminum 150KV cable from the substation back to the power plant. My messages to Centerpoint Energy in regards to upgrading all of this to pure oxygen free copper with a trace of silver have gone unanswered so it looks like I'll have to suffer through this power cable disaster.
post #4449 of 11305
Delay time as well, I try to get my settings as close as possible for comparisons, for instance, after running Audyssey it reported to the 8801 which set the mains at 12.6 ft from the MLP to get this close in the 105 you have to decide between 12.50 or 12.75 ft, as you can see you can't get it dead on a changing this is the 105 does have an effect on the overall impact of the sound the fact that its a no no to change the settings in the 8801 while one is using Audyssey makes it a tough call, also careful placement of the mic in the MLP for the first Audyssey measurement in my opinion is crucial ! and due too spending time with it I can get my distances anywhere from 13.0ft down to 12.5ft depending on that particular mic placement as each has given different results, but I settled on the 12.6 for mains because the fact I may not want to use Audyssey for 2/ch via hdmi to allow the 8801 to strut its stuff.

The end result is a non bright calibration and pin point accuracy and timing of effects for movies and equally good imaging for stereo playback as well over hdmi . wink.gif
post #4450 of 11305
@Boozehound21 Hmmmmm..... Very interesting. Right now, most of my main system (tv, a/v rack, and 3 of my Aragon amps) are all sitting on the same, standard 15-amp circuit, which is also shared with the sound-system in next room (since the two rooms share a wall - and it's the same circuit).

I am just about to install 4 separate 20-amp circuits - to give each Aragon amp and the subwoofer its own circuit. When I talked to Aragon support, they said this would give me more reserve power if needed - but they don't really think I need it - since I'm never tripping any breakers. I'll have to ask them about 240v performance vs 120v performance. Since I'm renting - I'm not sure it makes sense to run multiple 240v circuits to the living room compared to running the more standard 120v, 20 amp circuits.
post #4451 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boozehound21 View Post

I'm jumping on this bandwagon. I ordered mine from Soundvideo and it'll be here Monday. Special thanks thatsto Audiofan1, Joerod, and many others for the candid comments and review of the 8801. Thanks as well to Kal for his professional review and his numerous comments on the merits of room correction. Once I have it set up I will also share my perceptions of the sound quality using a BDP-95 and in comparison with my Aragon Soundstage. The Soundstage was the only processor I ever encountered that convinced me not to have a dedicated stereo preamp on the mains. The 8801 has some big shoes to fill. All the positive comments in this thread from people who are using serious equipment are encouraging. Thanks again to all who took this plunge before me and shared the experience. I bought a Nuforce 83 and the 95 based on experiences and opinions posted on AVS. No disappointments yet!

On a side note @ Bill222, I also use all Aragon amplification. One XLR Palladium feeds each of the five full range channels and six channels of two 8008BBX3 amps drive twelve sub voice coils for the .6. Obviously the electrical requirement is non-trivial. This system sounded great on three 120V circuits but I had to chase down ground loop and hum problems and occasionally experienced noise through the system generated by outside sources like fluorescent light ballasts. I believe those minor pops were a major factor in the destruction of a number of B&W tweeter coils/diaphragms. They're not cheap and they never blew with a small pop in the system but seemed to suffer latent damage. I considered major power cleaners like the Furman but decided on a different solution. I installed four 240V two pole dedicated circuits that run my entire system. There is also a large toroidal transformer that transforms the 240 into a differential 60-0-60 for those 120V components that are not easily converted to 240. You can't believe the improvement in the sound. Better still, I've yet to pop another tweeter diaphragm in spite of 650 watt peaks during parties. I also never trip circuit breakers now. Zero hum and noise. Zero issues having to chase noise gremlins to arrive at zero hum and noise. The only downside is a visit from the police who were peevish at 03:30 but didn't cite me. If this idea sounds good to you, know that your Aragon amps are converted to 240V by simply removing the fuse block on the rear panel and adjusting the voltage selector. Plus you need to cut the fuse value in half but fuses are cheap. You have enough amplification to warrant a serious power delivery setup. My system sounds better even at low volume now.

I was all set to buy $1000 power cords for each component when I discovered almost 3/4 of a mile of transmission line between my house and the huge substation nearby. Then I found another 30 some odd miles of nasty aluminum 150KV cable from the substation back to the power plant. My messages to Centerpoint Energy in regards to upgrading all of this to pure oxygen free copper with a trace of silver have gone unanswered so it looks like I'll have to suffer through this power cable disaster.

Now that's what I'm talking about sweet setup I've spent many a day dreaming about the Palladium's and with a power foundation like that I'll bet it does sound good cool.gif and welcome to the 8801 forums!
I'm looking forward to your impressions on the 8801 !
post #4452 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

@Boozehound21 Hmmmmm..... Very interesting. Right now, most of my main system (tv, a/v rack, and 3 of my Aragon amps) are all sitting on the same, standard 15-amp circuit, which is also shared with the sound-system in next room (since the two rooms share a wall - and it's the same circuit).

I am just about to install 4 separate 20-amp circuits - to give each Aragon amp and the subwoofer its own circuit. When I talked to Aragon support, they said this would give me more reserve power if needed - but they don't really think I need it - since I'm never tripping any breakers. I'll have to ask them about 240v performance vs 120v performance. Since I'm renting - I'm not sure it makes sense to run multiple 240v circuits to the living room compared to running the more standard 120v, 20 amp circuits.

Might I suggest 10 awg wire, I have one 10awg and one 12awg both 20 amp lines but if I had to do it again both would be 10awg as it has a least to my ears better sound quality and dynamics!
post #4453 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

On the Marantz:

Setup Menu --> Inputs --> Input Select --> Decode Mode

Decode Mode should be "Auto" for what you're asking for.

On that same screen, you probably want "Input Mode" to also be "Auto".

If that doesn't fix the issue - please describe the issue.

While playing the disc in your Oppo, click the Oppo's INFO (i) button - to display what the Oppo thinks it's sending.

After that Oppo info clears off the screen (but while the disc is still playing), on the Marantz, go to:

Setup Menu --> General --> Information --> Audio

to see what the Marantz thinks it's receiving (Input Signal) and how the Marantz has chosen to process it (Sound Mode).



I'm going to check all my settings later today.

Thanks,
John.
post #4454 of 11305
My 8801 is on the truck for delivery today. Can't wait to set this baby up and compare the sound to the Anthem AVM50v it is replacing.
post #4455 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

Question for Oppo users who prefer (or sometimes prefer) the 7.1 RCA inputs over the HDMI sound through the Marantz - do your speaker configurations match in the Marantz and in the Oppo?

I was often preferring my 7.1 RCA inputs - but now I realize I was "cheating". When using HDMI through the Marantz, besides Audyssey correction, I also had "proper" bass management - that is - all speakers set to small and cross-overs set based on the particular speaker. But - when using the RCA inputs from the Oppo BDP-105 - I forgot to correct the settings in the Oppo. I forgot the Oppo has its own set of speaker config settings - settings only used for the 7.1 RCA analog outputs. And in those settings my front speakers were still set to "Large".

So maybe the difference I was hearing was more a factor of "Large" speaker sound from the Oppo vs "Small" speaker sound from the Marantz instead of the Audyssey processing in the Marantz. So maybe I really just prefer "Large" speaker settings for the front. Time for more testing for me between 7.1 RCA and HDMI after I make sure the speaker config settings and distances are configured the same in both the Oppo settings and the Marantz settings...

Bill-

You and I are in a similar situation. I have been comparing the analog outputs of my Oppo 103 to its optical output.

I am presently using my Lexicon MC-12BEQ, and, utilizing the bass management inside the Lexicon. In the Oppo I have all speakers set to large.

My Lexicon cannot decode DTS HD or Dolby Tru HD, so, I have to let the Oppo do the HD decoding and feed into my Lexicon's 5.1 analog inputs. My Lexicon is able to apply bass management and room correction to the analog inputs.

The optical output of the Oppo only provides standard DD and DTS, however, I prefer the sound of that of the HD codecs. The main difference is in the bass output. I was under the impression that the analog output levels were identical to that of the digital. From a conversation with Oppo technical support I was told that the SW output on the Oppo is attenuated by 10db compared to the other channels (on the analog outputs). So, I bumped up the SW trim in the Oppo by 10 db, This made the bass too much, and, nearly unbearable.

I then spoke to another tech at Oppo support who told me that the only way to ensure the levels are equal is to use a calibration disc and an SPL meter. They recommended the AIX Blu-ray calibration disc. I have ordered this disc, and, hope that using it and adjusting my levels accordingly will end my confusion.

I will be trying this approach when my AIX disc arrives next week. If this does not equalize the level adjustments it looks like I will be keeping the Marantz, and, give up on using the anaolog outputs.. However, that being said, after hours of A/B blind comparisons I honestly can't tell any difference between the non-HD and the HD sound codecs. Originally I swore that I could; it must have been the placebo effect. Maybe when I get the levels adjusted I will tell a difference?

I will report back with my findings.

David
post #4456 of 11305
The AIX configuration/testing blu-ray disc is a minor miracle. If I remember correctly Oppo used to include it for free with their players, but these days you have to buy it separately.

On any system I setup - or after any major configuration change - I always try out the 7.1 channel identification tests from that disc - both the DTS-HD MA and Dolby TrueHD tests. That's two separate tests. If a system has problems, I find that it's usually in the DTS-HD MA playback. Sometimes the entire DTS signal seems to be 10db lower. Other times I see a 5.1 or 6.1 system improperly handle the mapping for the rear-surround channels of a 7.1 soundtrack.

And yes - I do like having a sound-level white-noise track on a Blu-ray - so you can actually test the sound level while playing a Blu-ray - so your system is being tested in its normal playback configuration. And I do use that exact test to manually trim my speakers - but what about the sub-woofer? I don't know how to get the sub-woofer to register properly when using that test. I've heard that subwoofers are notorious for not being easily read with a simple Radio Shack sound-meter.
post #4457 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

The AIX configuration/testing blu-ray disc is a minor miracle. If I remember correctly Oppo used to include it for free with their players, but these days you have to buy it separately.

On any system I setup - or after any major configuration change - I always try out the 7.1 channel identification tests from that disc - both the DTS-HD MA and Dolby TrueHD tests. That's two separate tests. If a system has problems, I find that it's usually in the DTS-HD MA playback. Sometimes the entire DTS signal seems to be 10db lower. Other times I see a 5.1 or 6.1 system improperly handle the mapping for the rear-surround channels of a 7.1 soundtrack.

And yes - I do like having a sound-level white-noise track on a Blu-ray - so you can actually test the sound level while playing a Blu-ray - so your system is being tested in its normal playback configuration. And I do use that exact test to manually trim my speakers - but what about the sub-woofer? I don't know how to get the sub-woofer to register properly when using that test. I've heard that subwoofers are notorious for not being easily read with a simple Radio Shack sound-meter.

I too have had difficulty measuring the output of my sub using the test tones and my old RS analog SPL meter. However, since I will be comparing the relative volume between digtial and anlog, I will simply strive for equal readings. I hope the AIX disc is easy to use and ends my frustration.
post #4458 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

The AIX configuration/testing blu-ray disc is a minor miracle. If I remember correctly Oppo used to include it for free with their players, but these days you have to buy it separately.

On any system I setup - or after any major configuration change - I always try out the 7.1 channel identification tests from that disc - both the DTS-HD MA and Dolby TrueHD tests. That's two separate tests. If a system has problems, I find that it's usually in the DTS-HD MA playback. Sometimes the entire DTS signal seems to be 10db lower. Other times I see a 5.1 or 6.1 system improperly handle the mapping for the rear-surround channels of a 7.1 soundtrack.

And yes - I do like having a sound-level white-noise track on a Blu-ray - so you can actually test the sound level while playing a Blu-ray - so your system is being tested in its normal playback configuration. And I do use that exact test to manually trim my speakers - but what about the sub-woofer? I don't know how to get the sub-woofer to register properly when using that test. I've heard that subwoofers are notorious for not being easily read with a simple Radio Shack sound-meter.

So, does this mean that the level calibration needs to be diffferent for the DTS-HD MA and the Dolby Tru-HD? If this is true then it is a deal breaker, and, I will just keep the Marantz and stay in the digital realm. HDMI is sooooo much easier than analog.
post #4459 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdlynch View Post

So, does this mean that the level calibration needs to be diffferent for the DTS-HD MA and the Dolby Tru-HD? If this is true then it is a deal breaker, and, I will just keep the Marantz and stay in the digital realm. HDMI is sooooo much easier than analog.

Not to worry. When the channel identification test sounds fine in Dolby TrueHD but is almost silent in DTS-HD MA - that's not a calibration difference. Nope. That's a bug. And so far - for me - it's always been a bug in the receiver or the pre-pro. The blu-ray players get it right, and the receivers and pre-pros get it wrong.... The simple solution is - let the Blu-ray player do the decoding for DTS-HD MA. So - if playing from a PS3 - it means set the PS3 to send out audio as PCM over the HDMI. If playing from an Oppo, you have choices - either have the Oppo send PCM over the HDMI, or use the Oppo's analog outputs.
post #4460 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

Not to worry. When the channel identification test sounds fine in Dolby TrueHD but is almost silent in DTS-HD MA - that's not a calibration difference. Nope. That's a bug. And so far - for me - it's always been a bug in the receiver or the pre-pro. The blu-ray players get it right, and the receivers and pre-pros get it wrong.... The simple solution is - let the Blu-ray player do the decoding for DTS-HD MA. So - if playing from a PS3 - it means set the PS3 to send out audio as PCM over the HDMI. If playing from an Oppo, you have choices - either have the Oppo send PCM over the HDMI, or use the Oppo's analog outputs.

Bill- thanks for the clarification. You have left me with hope that I can get my system set- up properly, and, be able to keep my Lexicon.
Edited by jdlynch - 3/28/13 at 12:50pm
post #4461 of 11305
On the Audiogon forum there has been some discussion of the Denon preamps.
The Denon has an extra crossover that allows for LFE+Main to output bass in Pure Direct and Direct Mode.

The same is true for the AV8801 and the Crossover settings are used.

So you can use your sub in Pure Direct and Pure modes with LFE+Main in all modes except using the 7.1 Ins.
However, your speakers operate in Large made even when they are set to small and all bass steering functions are not active in these modes.

- Rch
post #4462 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by cal87 View Post

I asked Marantz directly, and was told that the 7701 and 8801 are identical in dimensions.

I ordered the MA 7701 shelf and faceplate, and can confirm that it does fit.

I actually decided to go with the Marantz rack ears, so if anyone wants the Middle Atlantic kit for a good price, let me know.

The specs at the Marantz website show the following dimesions:

W x H X D
8801 = 17.32" x 7.28" x 15.33"
7701 = 17.32" x 7.36" x 15.98"

So the 7701 face plate should fit but have a slight gap at the top, thats assuming the feet's that prop it up are the same height as well.
Does GetGrey have a face plate thats more like the standard MA face plate making the unit flush mount instead of popping out of the rack?
post #4463 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP View Post

The specs at the Marantz website show the following dimesions:

W x H X D
8801 = 17.32" x 7.28" x 15.33"
7701 = 17.32" x 7.36" x 15.98"

So the 7701 face plate should fit but have a slight gap at the top, thats assuming the feet's that prop it up are the same height as well.
Does GetGrey have a face plate thats more like the standard MA face plate making the unit flush mount instead of popping out of the rack?

The Marantz rack ears make the unit sit flush in the rack. There is a small vented filler piece that fits in under the unit to take up the left over rack space (1/2 U) where the feet are. it fits perfect in the rack spaces. I am not sure if the MA faceplate comes in far enough on each side to cover the curvature of the 8801. If it does IMO I think it would look out of place. I attached a couple of pics using the rack ears. Sorry for the poor quality.
post #4464 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by comfynumb View PostThis is off their website, kind of laughable how they contradict themselves. So they sell and install products that are referred to in that blog as having inferior audio/video quality?

"Marantz should be a company needing no introduction. They make a variety of superb value audio and home theater products including a number of excellent surround receivers and pre-processors such as the AV7701. The pace of technology in the pre-processors and receivers is rapid and therefore realistically you should be planning on replacing these every 3yrs or so"

Yes it is, I have a Classé SSP-800 bought about two years ago so I should be good for an other year,

 

I just got rid of my Parasound amp which was 18 years old :)

post #4465 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by mastermaybe View Post

Not trying to tell you what to do, but why would you want to run the xlrs over the speaker wire?

The speaker wire is carrying a significantly stronger signal, is less prone to noise and interference and should be cheaper with sanely-priced 12-14g then a dozen "x" long xlrs.

James

Actually, you're right. Runing XLR's to the mains was my plan when I was going to DIY tri-amped speakers with a digital crossover. I just bought a ton (literately) of passive speakers, so it probably makes more sense to just run speaker cables.

The speakers are 102db/w/m so most of the time there will be very little voltage going to the speakers, so noise might still be a problem. The HT space is 30x40, so the speaker wire runs will be very long.
post #4466 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

On the Audiogon forum there has been some discussion of the Denon preamps.
The Denon has an extra crossover that allows for LFE+Main to output bass in Pure Direct and Direct Mode.

The same is true for the AV8801 and the Crossover settings are used.

So you can use your sub in Pure Direct and Pure modes with LFE+Main in all modes except using the 7.1 Ins.
However, your speakers operate in Large made even when they are set to small and all bass steering functions are not active in these modes.

- Rch

That's misleading info ! you cant use the the sub in "Pure Direct " mode ! wink.gif
post #4467 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdlynch View Post

Bill- thanks for the clarification. You have left me with hope that I can get my system set- up properly, and, be able to keep my Kexicon.

Hi JDlynch! when i used the oppo 95 with my Anthem I never had to use the +10db boost I'm not sure why as this may have been a Processor dependent thing which the Anthem and Lexicon do properly, I did how ever use three different methods to get the levels right, one was an DTS demo setup disc I had from a long gone Millenium DTS decoder which had full range test tones and sine wave sweeps and I used an Rat shack meter and indeed no boost was needed. So I would indeed say when you get your disc in it should help you get the levels correctly setup and to reconfirm use the test tones on a THX disc you may have around as well!

good luck on your venture smile.gif
post #4468 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve71 View Post

Actually, you're right. Runing XLR's to the mains was my plan when I was going to DIY tri-amped speakers with a digital crossover. I just bought a ton (literately) of passive speakers, so it probably makes more sense to just run speaker cables.

The speakers are 102db/w/m so most of the time there will be very little voltage going to the speakers, so noise might still be a problem. The HT space is 30x40, so the speaker wire runs will be very long.

It is better to run longer interconnects than longer speaker wires. This is one of the very reasonsfor balanced signals...to facilitate running long low level interconnects without problems vs long, lossy (relatively speaking) high power/high current speaker wires. Your low level signals are not as delicate as many say. It is basically a voltage signal with extremely low current so the losses over long runs is virtually nonexistent. Considering too, balanced runs and shielding on top of that, long low level instead of long speaker cable is the way to go.
Edited by whoaru99 - 3/28/13 at 12:23pm
post #4469 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

On the Audiogon forum there has been some discussion of the Denon preamps.
The Denon has an extra crossover that allows for LFE+Main to output bass in Pure Direct and Direct Mode.

The same is true for the AV8801 and the Crossover settings are used.

So you can use your sub in Pure Direct and Pure modes with LFE+Main in all modes except using the 7.1 Ins.
However, your speakers operate in Large made even when they are set to small and all bass steering functions are not active in these modes.

- Rch

Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post

That's misleading info ! you cant use the the sub in "Pure Direct " mode ! wink.gif

Nope. I wont say your are wrong, I will just ask how much money you want to bet. wink.gif

You cannot do bass steering in Pure Direct and Direct mode since your speakers are always treated as Large.
You CAN set Bass management LFE+Main and the bass from the mains will ALSO be sent to the Sub Pure Direct and Direct modes.
Note: I am running the latest firmware. Bass LFE+Main sends output to my sub for all inputs EXCEPT the 7.1 analog inputs.

I have my remote programmed to the status command which shows information in the larger LCD. This accurately displays the output channels.
The sub lights up, confirming this FACT.

- Rich
post #4470 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill222 View Post

I am just about to install 4 separate 20-amp circuits - to give each Aragon amp and the subwoofer its own circuit. When I talked to Aragon support, they said this would give me more reserve power if needed - but they don't really think I need it
just curious how much something like this cost's? (installing 4, 20A circuits) that is? My home has some issues tripping breakers, engaging a hair-dryer or even the garbage disposal.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Marantz AV8801 Preamp/Processor Official Owner's thread