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Marantz AV8801 Preamp/Processor Official Owner's thread - Page 315

post #9421 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post

Does the AV8801 have a 12 volts trigger for the power amp, I don't seem to find this information anywhere.
Also if I put the unit in-wall, furnace room and it have lots of breathing space does it realy require a fan?
It would run 2 or 4 hours max since it would be for movie only.

Thanks

Ray



It has 12 volt triggers and you may not need a fan on it but in my experience she does run warmer than other gear. I'm a firm believer that cooler runs more efficient and I've heard sound degradation in other gear I've owned from heat. Try it out but if it feels to warm on top throw a fan on it pulling the warm air out. I posted a link to one a few posts back that I really like, and threw a couple of rubber feet on it and it works like a charm.
post #9422 of 11305
Not sure if this has been discussed but I am wondering if anyone knows the 8801 will support upcoming HDMI v.2.0 standard?
post #9423 of 11305
As it is an HDMI 1.4 device, no, although it will still support 4K 24/30 frame video.
post #9424 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

As it is an HDMI 1.4 device, no, although it will still support 4K 24/30 frame video.

Opps..so a new replacement might be imminent by probably next year then since HDMI v2.0 is on the loose?
post #9425 of 11305
^^^
Unless your going with a 4K panel there's really no need to have HDMI 2.0, or worried about having Atmos and 32 speakers in your room, which isn't coming to HT anytime soon. It will be years before HDMI 2.0 makes much sense IMO. Read this link and what the author isn't saying is... His long it will be before 2.0 is absolutely necessary, which is potentially a long time. I just bought a Panny ST60 1080 plasma, I went to see UHD and although pretty spectacular at my 10' viewing position I wouldn't see any difference over 1080. By the time cable and satellite companies go full 4K it'll be the year 2020 IMO, some are still 720!



http://m.cnet.com/news/hdmi-2.0-upgrade-path-where-do-the-manufacturers-stand/57607131?ds=1
post #9426 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by dschamis View Post

Anyone else having a problem with the 8801 and the PS4? It doesn't seem to do the HDMI handshake right - audio is fine - video looks like crap - there are black bars on the top and bottom of the screen.

I tried the PS4 on a 1080p Panasonic plasma and it worked fine.

David

This is now really making me crazy.

To review - all other inputs on the 8801 work fine (DirecTV, PS3, etc.)

The PS4 connected directly to the projector works fine.

But when I connect the PS4 via the 8801, and resolution looks terrible. Its as if there is an EDID problem - it just doesn't seem to be able to sync to the correct resolution.

Any ideas now that the PS4 has been in the wild for a while?

Thanks,

David
post #9427 of 11305
wOriWS

I also have a square room, with no room treatments. I am reasonably certain it would sound better. The thought of running Audyssey for the first time with the 8801, and liking it, is enough to make me literally have a bowel movement on myself. I get Wayyyy to jacked up about this crap. I have two ex wifes that would vouch for this. I once ran Audyssey during halftime of a Super Bowl party. Needless to say, it did not go over well. Try keeping a house full of drunks quiet. Especially when one of them is your old lady.

post #9428 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by dschamis View Post

This is now really making me crazy.

To review - all other inputs on the 8801 work fine (DirecTV, PS3, etc.)

The PS4 connected directly to the projector works fine.

But when I connect the PS4 via the 8801, and resolution looks terrible. Its as if there is an EDID problem - it just doesn't seem to be able to sync to the correct resolution.

Any ideas now that the PS4 has been in the wild for a while?

Thanks,

David

Maybe video conversion off and a different hdmi cable? Maybe try a different 8801 input? Mine has been working fine since launch day...
post #9429 of 11305
Hello I switched from the 80.2 and I watch 95% movies most of the time. At this point I couldn't be any more happier and frankly don't know of anything the Integra does better. For me the GUI, remote and center channel clarity were worth the cost alone. Good Luck
post #9430 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spewayafese View Post

wOriWS


I also have a square room, with no room treatments. I am reasonably certain it would sound better. The thought of running Audyssey for the first time with the 8801, and liking it, is enough to make me literally have a bowel movement on myself. I get Wayyyy to jacked up about this crap. I have two ex wifes that would vouch for this. I once ran Audyssey during halftime of a Super Bowl party. Needless to say, it did not go over well. Try keeping a house full of drunks quiet. Especially when one of them is your old lady.

That was a great story for a late night laugh biggrin.gif sad thing is I don't blame you at all, I once got an acute case of "could it sound just a tad better" but fought it off with everything I had wink.gif
post #9431 of 11305
Thread Starter 
Folks... You got me concerned about temperature on my AV8801. My AV8801 is on a lot (my wife uses it during the day), and as you can see there is not a lot of space on top:



I purchased this USB fan: AC Infinity AI-MPF80A, which is quiet (requirement!): 26 CFM| Noise: 22 dBA

From reading here, I need to "turn off the network hub and the rear usb port selected." (not sure why the network hub needs to be off, not that I use it?) to connect it using USB.

What would you recommend:
1. Place the fan on top of the unit, rear/left pulling air out
2. Mounting it at the back blowing air over the top of unit
3. Mounting it at the back pulling air out from the top of the unit

I am leaning towards option #1, but I have about 1 1/4" of space between the top and the shelf above so it might not be sufficient since the fan itself is 1" leaving only 1/4" for airflow.

Thoughts?
post #9432 of 11305
^^^

I had my fan blowing across the top and that worked well on my open shelf.
The screw fell out so I placed it on the left side next to the power cable and that works about as well.

I used this Gelid fan which is 5 Volt capable, plugged into the read USB port for power.
When the network hub is set to off it also stops the USB port from being powered when powered off and the rear usb is selected.

- Rich
post #9433 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by exm View Post

Folks... You got me concerned about temperature on my AV8801. My AV8801 is on a lot (my wife uses it during the day), and as you can see there is not a lot of space on top:



I purchased this USB fan: AC Infinity AI-MPF80A, which is quiet (requirement!): 26 CFM| Noise: 22 dBA

From reading here, I need to "turn off the network hub and the rear usb port selected." (not sure why the network hub needs to be off, not that I use it?) to connect it using USB.

What would you recommend:
1. Place the fan on top of the unit, rear/left pulling air out
2. Mounting it at the back blowing air over the top of unit
3. Mounting it at the back pulling air out from the top of the unit

I am leaning towards option #1, but I have about 1 1/4" of space between the top and the shelf above so it might not be sufficient since the fan itself is 1" leaving only 1/4" for airflow.

Thoughts?



You need a thinner fan like this one, this is just an example and I'd shop for one that flowed 50 CFM or use two 25 CFM fans. Just a thought but I'd get one or two on top (with rubber feet on the bottom) pulling the warm air out. Cool gear runs more efficiently and lasts longer... Especially if it's on a lot wink.gif



http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005C31GIA
post #9434 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by exm View Post

Folks... You got me concerned about temperature on my AV8801. My AV8801 is on a lot (my wife uses it during the day), and as you can see there is not a lot of space on top:

I purchased this USB fan: AC Infinity AI-MPF80A, which is quiet (requirement!): 26 CFM| Noise: 22 dBA
From reading here, I need to "turn off the network hub and the rear usb port selected." (not sure why the network hub needs to be off, not that I use it?) to connect it using USB.
What would you recommend:
1. Place the fan on top of the unit, rear/left pulling air out
2. Mounting it at the back blowing air over the top of unit
3. Mounting it at the back pulling air out from the top of the unit
I am leaning towards option #1, but I have about 1 1/4" of space between the top and the shelf above so it might not be sufficient since the fan itself is 1" leaving only 1/4" for airflow.
Thoughts?

You might be able to use what I use, and that's a pair of low profile bower fans from CoolerGuys.com:
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556094272.html
I have these controlled using a thermostat set to come on at 85 degrees F, and off at 78 degrees F.
They're quiet, and reliable. (The programmable thermostat control is also from CoolerGuys.com).

post #9435 of 11305
thanks to all the ideas in this thread I just got this pair of usb powered 5v fans for $16. They are too thick (an inch and a 1/16th) to help in exm's situation. They are rated at 20cfm each, hopefully this weekend I'll get them set-up.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LHBCQA/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
post #9436 of 11305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Norseman View Post

You might be able to use what I use, and that's a pair of low profile bower fans from CoolerGuys.com:
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556094272.html
I have these controlled using a thermostat set to come on at 85 degrees F, and off at 78 degrees F.
They're quiet, and reliable. (The programmable thermostat control is also from CoolerGuys.com).


Thanks! Just purchased the thermostat and I cancelled the usb fan I ordered. I ordered these instead (CFM: 20 per fan, dBA: 17).

Question: do you have both fans pulling air out of the marantz?
post #9437 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by exm View Post

Thanks! Just purchased the thermostat and I cancelled the usb fan I ordered. I ordered these instead (CFM: 20 per fan, dBA: 17).

Question: do you have both fans pulling air out of the marantz?
The difference with the blower fans is that they pull hot air up and out of the Marantz, and eject it horizontally toward the rear (my cabinet is open to the rear).
post #9438 of 11305
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Norseman View Post

The difference with the blower fans is that they pull hot air up and out of the Marantz, and eject it horizontally toward the rear (my cabinet is open to the rear).

So you have both of them pulling air out?
post #9439 of 11305

I've tried numerous applications of a fan for my system that is located in a cabinet with an open back. I don't understand what all of the fuss is about cooking the 8801. Mine rarely gets more than a little warm, but a "cooler guy's" blower fan, as mentioned above, works by far the best. It sits on the top of the device and blows warm air back and out of the opened back cabinet.

 

The real heat is generated by the amplifier(s) that are beneath the shelf that the Marantz occupies. They are like space heaters. For these I cut an opening in the side of the cabinet and mounted an AC Infinity Fan to exhaust air out of the cabinet. These little fans move 52 cfm, but they are  louder than the projector fan (except it is further away from the seating area so not a problem). To properly exhaust warm air out of the cabinet, you must mount the fan at the very top of the cabinet, and allow for inflow of cool air at the bottom. If you're willing to cut a hole in the cabinet but mounting at the top isn't practical, the opposite certainly works as well. Mount the fan in reverse, at the very bottom of the cabinet so that forces cool air onto the underbelly of the amplifier(s). This coupled with a blower fan on the top grille of the amp forces the air up and out the back. This works very well if you're really having a serious overheat problem.

 

I just now enjoyed reading some of the postings here.  Most of us are nuts. (I am including myself). But some are over the top nuts. The guy who couldn't restrain himself from running Audyssey during a super bowl party, I imagine might cool his system down by adding dry ice every hour or two!

 

MS

post #9440 of 11305
I am just about ready ordering an AV8801 and will need to get some fan also.

Anyone tried some of these
http://www.amazon.ca/Coolerguys-120x120x25mm-USB-Fan-Grill/dp/B001NJ27QM/ref=pd_sim_ce_2

Ray
post #9441 of 11305

Ray,

 

The fan that you posted is only going to work on top of the unit if you've got plenty of space above the unit.  If there's only an inch or two of space above the preamp, but open space behind it, you want to get the coolerguy's blower fan that sucks in the air and blows it out at a right angle. Then again, if you do have plenty of room above the Marantz, you don't really need a fan.

post #9442 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by spentmuch View Post

Ray,

The fan that you posted is only going to work on top of the unit if you've got plenty of space above the unit.  If there's only an inch or two of space above the preamp, but open space behind it, you want to get the coolerguy's blower fan that sucks in the air and blows it out at a right angle. Then again, if you do have plenty of room above the Marantz, you don't really need a fan.

I got about 4-5 inches above and the equipment is in wall with plenty of space around



Is your above recomendation would still be the best option?

Ray
post #9443 of 11305

Ray,

I think the dry ice option would work.

Just kidding.  And nice setup! I doubt that you need any fan at all. There's plenty of room for air to circulate around your equipment. Is there any natural air-flow in that space behind the wall unit? I'm guessing there is.

 

Mike

post #9444 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by spentmuch View Post

Ray,
I think the dry ice option would work.
Just kidding.  And nice setup! I doubt that you need any fan at all. There's plenty of room for air to circulate around your equipment. Is there any natural air-flow in that space behind the wall unit? I'm guessing there is.

Mike

Thanks

It the furnace and hot water room. Lots of space but it is close.
I see how hot it run after a movie.

Ray
post #9445 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by exm View Post

So you have both of them pulling air out?
That's right.
I've noticed that the AV8801 gets warmest at the rear/left (when viewed from the front), so I make sure one blower fan is positioned directly over that spot, and the other is sort of in the middle,...not much heat emanating from the rear/right...
I actually have them triggered to come on when my amp cabinet (below) gets to 85 degrees F., which is about a half hour after the system has been operating.
I would have set the temp control to come on later (say at 88 or more degrees as the instructions suggest), but my XPR-5 amp runs pretty cool (cooler than the AV8801!), so I set the programmable thermostat at a bit lower start temp.

Here's the programmable thermostat I use:
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556090885.html
That also controls another 140mm cabinet mounted fan in the amp cabinet. - all three fans are triggered by this one programmable thermostat.
The programmable feature is nice because I can set it to come on later in the summer and earlier in the winter, so that the house ambient temperature doesn't dictate too much when it starts.
post #9446 of 11305
The power cord does not matter. You will see zero improvement from it. The AV8801 has a great power supply that's more than capable of removing the noise shown on the oscilloscope plot (assuming it's an actual before and after plot which I'm pretty sure it's not). Don't take me the wrong way, I respect others opinions, but this is AV Science after all. Well, I guess psychology is a science...

On a brighter note, I finally re-bought that AV8801 I sent back to amazon many months ago since they sent me the wrong unit (was an amazon warehouse open-box deal that didn't even have an AV8801 in it!?!). Seems the new a-stock price has dropped significantly from a certain seller on ebay, making the AV8801 an even better buy. However, you guys have me worried with all the pictures of fans above your AV8801. I was hoping it'd run cooler than my Onkyo did!?!
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post

Good clean unrestricted power is a system building fundamental that to often gets over looked but can be a Paradigm shift when done right (cable choice,conditioning etc..) and take a piece like the 8801 and kick it up several notches by revealing potential one may not know it has.

Well done Sir wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by zuluwalker View Post


1. Hiss was still present when cold booted.
2. hissing begins one click after volume is increased from off.
3. No hiss until AV8801 is plugged into amps.
4. All are on the same line. They all go through the same power conditioner.

Your last point Got me thinking, so I did a few things. I took my Conditioner off of the dedicated power line, and placed it on another of a different phase. That cut the hiss in half. Perhaps I have more utilities and appliances on the first phase?
This was an issue. For sure. I could cause a direct effect on the hiss by playing with the power cord. It was not a tight fit.

I bought a new Power Cord.
Thanks everyone for helping. In the end I did some work to manage the power line, made a cable adjustment, and in the end reduced the hiss by half for free with just some good old hard work troubleshooting. The remaining hiss was eliminated by using a cord made by Shunyata Research. I bought a Digital Alpha Power cord.



http://www.shunyata.com/Content/products-SignalDigAlpha.html

Here is an example of the cable in action, pics are from the website.

AlphaDigital02.png 37k .png file
post #9447 of 11305
Nice amp! I almost bought that one; however, I ended up getting an ATI as there was a great deal on it at the time. They also make the higher end Outlaw amps. Both are a great american made product.
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post

I got about 4-5 inches above and the equipment is in wall with plenty of space around



Is your above recomendation would still be the best option?

Ray
post #9448 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by etc6849 View Post

Nice amp! I almost bought that one; however, I ended up getting an ATI as there was a great deal on it at the time. They also make the higher end Outlaw amps. Both are a great american made product.
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post

I got about 4-5 inches above and the equipment is in wall with plenty of space around



Is your above recomendation would still be the best option?

Ray

Yes Sir.

I am surprise you did reconize it was an Outlaw (7700) and yes ATI and Outlaw use to be very sililar in spec since they were made by the same manifacture if I recall right.
I use to own one of the first Outlaw 750 and was impress and too bad one of those big guy company (Outlaw was professional enough to never mention the name) attend got to kill and succeed to make a very good high-end A/V processor disapear from a smaller company and this is how I end-up with the Onkyo PRS886 offer by Outlaw to satisfied their customer..

I am going to get the Marantz AV8801 to get me to the next step of sound nirvana, and also get another XLR cable to take full advantage of the XT32 for the second sub.
Fans are cheap to buy and I did not know until today that some can be power by USB port.
I will put this 3th on my list, if needed since I got 6" above it (just checked).

Ray
Edited by darthray - 12/15/13 at 12:01am
post #9449 of 11305
We should call this the 8801 cooling thread tongue.gif I'm thinking of moving to 11.1 I have seen in a few discussion threads that there are a few 8801 owners using this capability. Any thoughts around setup and use, that you can share with other owners looking to join you
post #9450 of 11305
Quote:
Originally Posted by etc6849 View Post

"You will see zero improvement from it."
"Well, I guess psychology is a science..."

Clearly you have kept an open mind. I am definitely enjoying the notiable benefits of "zero". I will wait for your reply about how I ignore the science, and must also believe in witchcraft, blah blah blah.

Too bad you left ZERO room to allow for other facts.
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