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Official OPPO BDP-103 Owner's Thread - Page 163

post #4861 of 9052
I tried playing around with network streaming for the first time last night. The extent of my previous experience with streaming is very limited (formerly a Squeezebox Touch resided in my system). First, I set the 103 to allow streaming on my network. Then, I enabled sharing on my music folder which contains both FLAC and Amazon mp3 downloads. When I went into Network on the 103 I saw two separate options to choose: the first one allowed me to access it, but there was nothing in the Music folder. The second showed a username and password login. After playing with the share settings, and getting no results I finally copied my music info to the folder that I could access on the 103. After I did this, I could play any of the mp3 downloads, but my FLAC files were nowhere to be found.

After doing some reading this morning, I think my best option to play FLAC files from my computer would be to download JRiver (or some other DLNA server), and push the files to the player.

Question: after I install the server how should the 103 be setup in order to play the file? Like I said, I'm really out of my depth here...

The other option would be to plug an external flash/hard drive into the USB port on the 103 with all my files.

Question: what external HD would you recommend? I would like to keep it under a $100 if possible, and not use an external power supply.

Finally, of these two options would either sound better than the other?

Thanks,

Jim
post #4862 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamtheatre View Post

I tried playing around with network streaming for the first time last night. The extent of my previous experience with streaming is very limited (formerly a Squeezebox Touch resided in my system). First, I set the 103 to allow streaming on my network. Then, I enabled sharing on my music folder which contains both FLAC and Amazon mp3 downloads. When I went into Network on the 103 I saw two separate options to choose: the first one allowed me to access it,

That was probably a DLNA server. Windows Media Player?
Quote:
but there was nothing in the Music folder.

People often have better luck with other DLNA servers.
Quote:
The second showed a username and password login.

That was the SMB server.
Quote:
After playing with the share settings, and getting no results I finally copied my music info to the folder that I could access on the 103. After I did this, I could play any of the mp3 downloads, but my FLAC files were nowhere to be found.

After doing some reading this morning, I think my best option to play FLAC files from my computer would be to download JRiver (or some other DLNA server), and push the files to the player.

Question: after I install the server how should the 103 be setup in order to play the file? Like I said, I'm really out of my depth here...

There isn't any setup on the player end.
Quote:
The other option would be to plug an external flash/hard drive into the USB port on the 103 with all my files.

Question: what external HD would you recommend? I would like to keep it under a $100 if possible, and not use an external power supply.

Seagate makes various USB-powered hard drives in that range. You can find them at office supply stores and Walmart.
Quote:
Finally, of these two options would either sound better than the other?

Same.

-Bill
post #4863 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grawski View Post

I am also having an audio problem with the 103.

My connections are as follows.

DirecTV Genie HDMI out to OPPO HDMI in (on the back)

OPPO HDMI out #1 to the TV HDMI in.

OPPO HDMI out #2 to ONKYO HDMI in.

The problem occurs when I change DirecTV from Live channel to a taped program.

As soon as I make the change, in either direction, the audio is gone.

If I turn off the TV, and turn it back on, I have audio.

If I change the OPPO input from HDMI (back) to Bluray, and then back to HDMI (back), I recover the audio.

There is a workaround, but I feel as though it shoud not be the final fix.

I'd appreciate any suggestion here.

P.S. This is day one for the OPPO. Firmware update was performed prior to problems.

Also, selected reset all factory settings.


I have the exact same setup as you.  Genie to HDMI Back of Oppo, HDMI1 from Oppo to TV and HDMI2 from Oppo to my Onkyo.  The work around that I am using is to use the 8 second skip back button (or you could probably use reverse or maybe fastforward) and that gets the audio started.  Let me know if that works for you.

post #4864 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcclain View Post

That was probably a DLNA server. Windows Media Player?
People often have better luck with other DLNA servers.
That was the SMB server.
There isn't any setup on the player end.
Seagate makes various USB-powered hard drives in that range. You can find them at office supply stores and Walmart.
Same.

-Bill

Thanks, Bill.

So, just to clarify, when I run JRiver to play FLAC on my laptop, the 103 simply needs to be on?
post #4865 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamtheatre View Post


So, just to clarify, when I run JRiver to play FLAC on my laptop, the 103 simply needs to be on?

I believe that's correct.

-Bill
post #4866 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamtheatre View Post

Thanks, Bill.

So, just to clarify, when I run JRiver to play FLAC on my laptop, the 103 simply needs to be on?

Thanks, again.

One final question: If that was the SMB server that was asking me for a username and password, and I never created such a thing, then how does one access it?
post #4867 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Bass management (crossover processing) should only be happening in one place for any given method of listening. The Speaker Configuration settings in the OPPO only apply to the multi-channel Analog outs (and not even then, if you are playing an SACD using DSD-Direct-to-Analog conversion, or are using the Asynchronous USB DAC stereo Input).

So with HDMI Audio output, your crossover processing should be set in your HDMI-capable AVR.

For multi-channel Analog, it is pretty common except in high end models that crossover processing is not available in AVRs. If it *IS* available, that will require the AVR to re-digitize the multi-channel Analog input (since the processing is done digitally) and then re-convert the result back to Analog for output.

For stereo Analog, the AVR likely offers crossover processing, but again this requires re-digitization of the input. If you would prefer to avoid that, then you do the crossover process in the OPPO -- using the multi-channel Analog outputs.

Sophisticated crossover processing which happens as part of Room Correction systems like Audyssey also requires re-digitization.

So, for HDMI Audio the settings in the OPPO don't apply. Make the settings in your AVR.

For multi-channel Analog audio, the way to DISABLE crossover processing in the OPPO (i.e., so you can do it in the AVR instead -- via re-digitization) is to set all speakers to Large in the OPPO. "Large" in this context has nothing to do with the physical size of the speakers. It is just standard language meaning "no crossover processing".

If you want to do the crossover processing for multi-channel Analog in the OPPO, then set speakers to small. You'll need to make sure your AVR is not also doing crossover processing. If your AVR doesn't even offer that, then there's nothing to do. If it does offer it, you'll need to decide how to disable it. Disabling re-digitization -- i.e., some sort of Analog-Direct setting -- would be one way. Another would be to set speakers Large in the AVR -- knowing that the OPPO has already done the crossover job.

Selecting a Crossover frequency is something of a matter of trial and error unless you have a way to measure the actual bass response of your room, and your individual speakers AS POSITIONED in that room. But there are a few Rules of Thumb:

1) Don't set a Crossover too high or you will start shifting male voice dialog into the subwoofer -- not a good thing. Try to keep the Crossover below 100Hz. 80Hz is a better choice.

2) Keep in mind that the Crossover is not a sudden switch between bass in the speaker and bass in the subwoofer. It actually rolls into effect over a range of frequencies -- typically an octave (factor of 2 in frequencies). Throughout that range BOTH the main speaker and the sub will share the job of reproducing the audio. That means that you want to make sure both are ABLE to do that. So if your main speakers are rated down to 30Hz, you don't want to set a 30Hz crossover because the mains will be called on to participate in bass for the octave BELOW the crossover -- 15-30Hz in this example. Instead you should set the Crossover at 60Hz (or higher) so that you know the main speaker can produce quality output for the full octave below the crossover -- 30-60Hz.

3) Even if you have expensive speakers sold as "full frequency range" it is wise to STILL use a subwoofer and crossover processing. That's because even top quality "full range" speakers have trouble producing the lowest bass frequencies AT VOLUME. Unless your main speakers have powered woofers you really should plan on using a decent subwoofer for bass below 30Hz (the bass you more feel than hear).

Before you can test your Crossover you need to make sure your speakers and Sub are matched in volume trim. A calibration disc and a Sound Pressure Level (SPL) meter is the way to do this.

The AIX Audio Calibration, Blu-ray, disc has a Crossover test track which sends a test tone to the Left Front which sweeps up and down through the bass range. At the higher frequency end, all of that should be coming out of LF. At the lowest bass end, all of that should be coming out of the Subwoofer (due to the Crossover). In between, varying amounts come out of BOTH the Sub and LF.

If your speakers and Sub are in proper volume balance, and if your Crossover Frequency is well chosen for the capabilities of your Sub and mains, and if your room has no significant bass response issues, that test should produce constant volume across the frequency range (except at the very lowest frequencies which will be hard to hear). There is another factor that comes in as well and that is the combo of Polarity and Phase settings in the Sub. Both of these are related to keeping the output of the sub in precise alignment with the output of the main speakers through the Crossover range when they are both playing the same bass at the same time. If they are out of Phase then you can get "cancellation" between the Sub and the mains -- which will lead to the perception of anemic bass.

Using a wide frequency range noise tone played into the front speakers (like the hiss between FM radio stations), you can test Phase adjustment in the Sub. Adjust Phase for maximum bass -- i.e., minimum bass cancellation. The effect is subtle (since most of the range of the test tone is not subject to cancellation), so it takes some patience and practice to set this. Phase is a timing effect, so the time alignment of the speakers (speaker distance settings) has to be set correctly first.
--Bob

Bob,

Great info. If I understand this (and I'm only just beginng to do so), no matter how "full range" my speakers are, I should set them to small?

Then reduce the crossover to maybe 30 or 50? I've always set my speakers to large because they are all full range...
post #4868 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamtheatre View Post


Thanks, again.

One final question: If that was the SMB server that was asking me for a username and password, and I never created such a thing, then how does one access it?

I don't use Windows very often; all I know is its networking procedures are a nightmare and everyone struggles.

Instructions on setting up SMB so that the OPPO can access it have been posted here before. Perhaps someone will post a link?

I would put this in the FAQ if someone could provide a procedure known to work reliably for everyone.

That said, I think SMB authentication still requires some work in the OPPO firmware. It's not as reliable as I would like for my Samba server on Linux or my ASUS router.

-Bill
post #4869 of 9052
I am reading the thread, but I'm only on page 30 smile.gif

I think I will just stick with JRiver. Seems to be one of the best options for what I need it to do (replace the Squeezebox Touch).

Thanks Again,

Jim
post #4870 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuromancer View Post

This is usually due to a buffering error. If you are using the USB extension cable that came with the player and move the WiFi dongle to a location where the reception is higher. If at all possible, use Ethernet as it is far more reliably.

Try setting your IP Configuration (Network Setup) from AUTO (DHCP) to MANUAL. Change your DNS 1 to 008.008.008.008. Press Enter so you see 8.8.8.8 for DNS 1. Highlight OK at the bottom then exit Setup.

Try Netflix again.

Would someone mind explaining what the significance of using DNS1 set to 008.008.008.008?

One would still use their normal DNS in addition to this one also right?

Thanks.
post #4871 of 9052
I just got my 103 a few days ago. It is most impressive. Thanks for the great posts on this thread for convincing me to take the plunge. It meets all my expectations and then some!

Questions:

1) Regarding the Roku stick that Oppo is offering for a special deal. Are people happy with it? Any major deficencies? Or would you recommend one of the Roku boxes instead?

2) While skimming through the posts on this thread I thought I saw some reference that the stick could only use the front HDMI port on the 103? Did I read that right? And if so, what is the difference between the front and rear HIDMI inputs?

Thanks
post #4872 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackVette View Post

Bob,

Great info. If I understand this (and I'm only just beginng to do so), no matter how "full range" my speakers are, I should set them to small?

Then reduce the crossover to maybe 30 or 50? I've always set my speakers to large because they are all full range...

That would be my recommendation, assuming you have a decent sub that can handle the octave below 30Hz (e.g., a THX Ultra 2 sub). NOTE: A lot of lower priced subs sold for home theater use actually roll off pretty fast themselves below 35Hz, so they won't really contribute all that much down there. Also the sub has to be properly sized for the room. A sub has to huff a lot of air to pressurize the room at 20Hz. If the Sub is too small for the room you won't really get its spec'd low frequency performance.

As for which Crossover to use, begin by checking the low frequency spec for the speakers and at least double that. For example, if the "full range" speakers are rated down to 20Hz, don't use a crossover lower than 40Hz.
--Bob
post #4873 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tal L View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuromancer View Post

This is usually due to a buffering error. If you are using the USB extension cable that came with the player and move the WiFi dongle to a location where the reception is higher. If at all possible, use Ethernet as it is far more reliably.

Try setting your IP Configuration (Network Setup) from AUTO (DHCP) to MANUAL. Change your DNS 1 to 008.008.008.008. Press Enter so you see 8.8.8.8 for DNS 1. Highlight OK at the bottom then exit Setup.

Try Netflix again.

Would someone mind explaining what the significance of using DNS1 set to 008.008.008.008?

One would still use their normal DNS in addition to this one also right?

Thanks.

That's Google's free DNS service.

A lot of these Internet services assign which streaming server farm you'll connect to according to your geographic location -- often set by which DNS server is involved in making the connection. Depending on who's providing your Internet service, the DNS server they include by default may result in a misleading location and thus a poorer choice of streaming server connection.

Using a different DNS service may get you assigned to different Netflix streaming servers which have faster connection to your location.

You could also try the free DNS service provided by OpenDNS. Google OpenDNS for details.
--Bob
post #4874 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

That would be my recommendation, assuming you have a decent sub that can handle the octave below 30Hz (e.g., a THX Ultra 2 sub). NOTE: A lot of lower priced subs sold for home theater use actually roll off pretty fast themselves below 35Hz, so they won't really contribute all that much down there. Also the sub has to be properly sized for the room. A sub has to huff a lot of air to pressurize the room at 20Hz. If the Sub is too small for the room you won't really get its spec'd low frequency performance.

As for which Crossover to use, begin by checking the low frequency spec for the speakers and at least double that. For example, if the "full range" speakers are rated down to 20Hz, don't use a crossover lower than 40Hz.
--Bob

Thank you Bob,

My speakers including sub are custom made so I don't know the specs....

The sub is large and unpowered I use an external amp to power it.

I'm pretty sure it can handle frequencies though. I'm thinking of buying a second sub but am not sure I need it yet.

I bought a new amp when I got my Pioneer SC68 last week and between the two of them my bass sounds even better than before.

I'm looking forward to trying this.
post #4875 of 9052
Does the dual core processor really make a noticeable difference in overall responsiveness and speed? In terms of usability how much of an improvement can I expect from the MediaTek dual core CPU?
post #4876 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcclain View Post

I don't use Windows very often; all I know is its networking procedures are a nightmare and everyone struggles.

Instructions on setting up SMB so that the OPPO can access it have been posted here before. Perhaps someone will post a link?

I would put this in the FAQ if someone could provide a procedure known to work reliably for everyone.

That said, I think SMB authentication still requires some work in the OPPO firmware. It's not as reliable as I would like for my Samba server on Linux or my ASUS router.

-Bill
Personally, over the years I've tried many file storage devices such as: dedicate file serving Windows PC's, Linux laptops with USB HDD's, ethernet HDD's and media players with internal and external HDD's. However, for the last year or so I've been running a Synology 212+ NAS (with 2No internal HDD bays and bunch of USB3 ports). And I've got to say having an NAS has proved to be the best method of serving files I've used by far...

The NAS was fairly straight forward to set-up and offers UPnP connectivity (which 'does not' require a login/password by the Oppo) and SMB connectivity (which 'does' require a login/password by the Oppo - ie: the same one you use to access the NAS's GUI from your computer).

And even though my network and switch-gear runs at a maximum of 100Mbps, I'm able to play .M2TS and MKV contained files up-to 70Mbps via both UPnP and SMB, which is more that enough for playing Blu-ray back-ups by the Oppo wink.gif

EDIT: All my 2Ch and 6Ch FLAC files have their meta-data displayed quickly and correctly. Same too with AAC (.M4A) files...


Cheers all
Edited by SeeMoreDigital - 1/24/13 at 12:53pm
post #4877 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tal L View Post

2) While skimming through the posts on this thread I thought I saw some reference that the stick could only use the front HDMI port on the 103? Did I read that right? And if so, what is the difference between the front and rear HIDMI inputs?

Thanks

Correct. The front one is MHL, which is a new socket standard, although it is compatible with older connectors like HDMI in this case.

See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mobile_High-definition_Link

-Bill
post #4878 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhed View Post

? For you 103 owners. Is any of you experiencing any lockups on newly released bd? I ask this because my new Pio 62 is locking up on some scenes on movies like Looper. And had major lockups on newly release Dredd. If the 103 plays smoothly, im thinking of returning my 62 to get a 103 instead. Pioneer hasn't release any updates for the 62. Thanks..

I played both Looper and Dredd 3D, both played flawlessly!
I liked Looper, Dredd was dreadful.....
post #4879 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tal L View Post

Questions:

1) Regarding the Roku stick that Oppo is offering for a special deal. Are people happy with it? Any major deficencies? Or would you recommend one of the Roku boxes instead?

2) While skimming through the posts on this thread I thought I saw some reference that the stick could only use the front HDMI port on the 103? Did I read that right? And if so, what is the difference between the front and rear HIDMI inputs?

Thanks

Personally I'd choose the Roku 2 XS box. It offers a choice of wireless or Ethernet and adds a USB port. Functionally they are all much the same as the Stick. None of them really benefit from being run through the Oppo, other than for convenience if you have a shortage of inputs elsewhere. Wireless is a "major deficiency" in my book, and the Stick must use wireless.
post #4880 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamtheatre View Post

I tried playing around with network streaming for the first time last night. The extent of my previous experience with streaming is very limited (formerly a Squeezebox Touch resided in my system). First, I set the 103 to allow streaming on my network. Then, I enabled sharing on my music folder which contains both FLAC and Amazon mp3 downloads. When I went into Network on the 103 I saw two separate options to choose: the first one allowed me to access it, but there was nothing in the Music folder. The second showed a username and password login. After playing with the share settings, and getting no results I finally copied my music info to the folder that I could access on the 103. After I did this, I could play any of the mp3 downloads, but my FLAC files were nowhere to be found.

After doing some reading this morning, I think my best option to play FLAC files from my computer would be to download JRiver (or some other DLNA server), and push the files to the player.

Question: after I install the server how should the 103 be setup in order to play the file? Like I said, I'm really out of my depth here...

The other option would be to plug an external flash/hard drive into the USB port on the 103 with all my files.

Question: what external HD would you recommend? I would like to keep it under a $100 if possible, and not use an external power supply.

Finally, of these two options would either sound better than the other?

Thanks,

Jim

My library is 99.9% FLAC and I have no issues. I think your issues are in the network or DLNA software outside the Oppo, not the codec.

In DLNA speak, the Oppo is both a:
  • Digital Media Player: pull/play files off a Digital Media Server using the Oppo UI, and a
  • Digital Media Renderer: play files pushed from a Digital Media Controller using the DMC UI

If you want to push files to the Oppo using some other interface it will need to be DMC. I think JRiver does this, but you should check. You probably also need a Digital Media Server (DLNA Server) installed somewhere.

I am using Media Monkey beta version as a DMC. It is working one song at a time and is a bit buggy, but that it on the MM side.

If you connect a USB drive to the Oppo, then you will only be able to pull files, not push them. You could connect a USB drive to the DLNA server elsewhere on the network, but it sounds like your library is already on the network somewhere.
post #4881 of 9052

just got a new 103!

 

overall very good.

 

build quality is excellent.

 

no difference with BR playback that i can tell (2D or 3D)

 

sound is excellent, and more 'crisp' then the sony 590 is replaces

 

one thing i'm having trouble with:

 

i have 5.1 FLACS published via a ps3media DLNA server, which i traverse and play back with the oppo. the lists of tracks are always showing up twice in the list though, and both play. i've checked all the settings in the dlna server and don't see anything that would cause it to broadcast a duplicate file name for each track. anyone seen this behavior? this didn't happen when the sony looked a these tracks (wouldn't play them though :) )

 

maybe i should just go the SMB path instead, although i haven't got past the login/password issue with those yet (network share via mac mini).

 

thanks for any help, nice to be in the oppo club!

post #4882 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajaxmike View Post

My library is 99.9% FLAC and I have no issues. I think your issues are in the network or DLNA software outside the Oppo, not the codec.

In DLNA speak, the Oppo is both a:
  • Digital Media Player: pull/play files off a Digital Media Server using the Oppo UI, and a
  • Digital Media Renderer: play files pushed from a Digital Media Controller using the DMC UI

If you want to push files to the Oppo using some other interface it will need to be DMC. I think JRiver does this, but you should check. You probably also need a Digital Media Server (DLNA Server) installed somewhere.

I am using Media Monkey beta version as a DMC. It is working one song at a time and is a bit buggy, but that it on the MM side.

If you connect a USB drive to the Oppo, then you will only be able to pull files, not push them. You could connect a USB drive to the DLNA server elsewhere on the network, but it sounds like your library is already on the network somewhere.

I think I am mostly there. I just need to get into the SMB, and I am being blocked by the username/password screen. I can disable that by using Windows 7 autologin (I found the instructions on how to do that posted in a link by gsr somewhere back in the 30's or 40's of this thread). In essence, I will be "pulling" as you describe, just as if the usb hdd was attached directly to the 103 (correct me if I'm wrong, still very much a newbie with networking)..

JRiver looks awesome, and I would love to use it's interface. Right now, though, I just want to simply hear my FLAC files. smile.gif
post #4883 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

Personally I'd choose the Roku 2 XS box. It offers a choice of wireless or Ethernet and adds a USB port. Functionally they are all much the same as the Stick. None of them really benefit from being run through the Oppo, other than for convenience if you have a shortage of inputs elsewhere. Wireless is a "major deficiency" in my book, and the Stick must use wireless.
+1 to everything here. I use a roku xs hooked into a switch which also has a WD live, apple tv, ps3 hooked into it. output from switch goes into the rear oppo hdmi port and all is good!
wireless sucks for everything except convenience IMO, if you can go wired, that is the way to go...
post #4884 of 9052
Only Best Rated in Canada is showing an Oppo BDP-103 Region Free Kit. Has anyone tried?

http://www.onlybestrated.com/region-free-external-internal-kit-for-oppo-bdp-103.html
post #4885 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by bolmsted View Post

Only Best Rated in Canada is showing an Oppo BDP-103 Region Free Kit. Has anyone tried?

http://www.onlybestrated.com/region-free-external-internal-kit-for-oppo-bdp-103.html
Jeez... that mod is tiny compared to previous Oppo mod kits...
post #4886 of 9052
Ok, I am still getting the Username Password screen when I try to access my files on the Oppo. I see two icons like Bill said: One is the WMP and the other is the SMP (two computer icon). When I click on that SMP I keep getting the Username Password thing. I have tried all the suggestions I could find, and don't know what else I should do. Is there some other kind of software I need to install? Sorry for the confusion...
post #4887 of 9052
I think you said you were using Win 7 if so make sure you don't have Microsoft Live Essentials installed. Numerous posts earlier in the thread about that being the culprit with Win 7.
post #4888 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by electricmanscott View Post

Anyone have any Netflix issues with the 103? Mine locks up regularly. when using Netflix. I've reset everything back to factory settings and still no luck. If it freezes I get a blank screen and the remote does nothing. Can't navigate back to home or anywhere else. The only option is power off and restart. Thoughts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neuromancer View Post

This is usually due to a buffering error. If you are using the USB extension cable that came with the player and move the WiFi dongle to a location where the reception is higher. If at all possible, use Ethernet as it is far more reliably.

Try setting your IP Configuration (Network Setup) from AUTO (DHCP) to MANUAL. Change your DNS 1 to 008.008.008.008. Press Enter so you see 8.8.8.8 for DNS 1. Highlight OK at the bottom then exit Setup.

Try Netflix again.

Didn't provide the cure. Specifically what happens is watching Sons of Anarchy, episode ends, 20 seconds to start of next episode, buffer, blank screen, remote no response, turn power off, restart, open netflix.
post #4889 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by electricmanscott View Post


Didn't provide the cure. Specifically what happens is watching Sons of Anarchy, episode ends, 20 seconds to start of next episode, buffer, blank screen, remote no response, turn power off, restart, open netflix.


Exact same problem here with Netflix when watching a different series, How I met your Mother, froze up on me 3 or 4 times in the past couple days. Tried Netflix on PS3 and Roku with no issues. Still not quite sure if its an issue with the OPPO player or an intermittent issue on the Netflix end of things.
post #4890 of 9052
Quote:
Originally Posted by obie_fl View Post

I think you said you were using Win 7 if so make sure you don't have Microsoft Live Essentials installed. Numerous posts earlier in the thread about that being the culprit with Win 7.

That did it biggrin.gif

Thanks so much,

Jim
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