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Official OPPO BDP-103 Owner's Thread - Page 168

post #5011 of 8963
1/28/13 at 9:36pm

Hi:

 

My 4-port Netgear wireless gigabit router(WNDR 3700) is all used up (Oppo, TV, Torus Power Conditioner and Moxi DVR). I can't seem to find 8/12 or 16 port high speed gigabit wireless routers. All i seem to find are just non-wireless plain routers. Anyone know of any good 8-port 1G wireless routers? If not, can i somehow combine an 8-port 1G router switch with my 4-port wireless router with no issues or performance hit? Sorry for the OT...

 

- David


Edited by dmusoke - 1/28/13 at 10:23pm
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post #5012 of 8963
1/28/13 at 9:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Thanks bluechunks.... So, the created MKV files are bit-to-bit identical in performance and features to the original bluray file(s)? MKV supports all lossless codecs(Dolby TrueHD and DTS-MA) plus high quality lossy ones(Dolby Digital+ and DTS-HR)?

Note that the 103 doesn't support Dolby TrueHD in an MKV container currently. DTS-HD works fine though.
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post #5013 of 8963
1/29/13 at 12:32am

Quote:


Originally Posted by turboman123 View Post

I found this:
http://watershade.net/wmcclain/BDP-103-faq.html#region-free-modifications
So the disc I found in my player seems to make a software modification for Region Free DVD's.
I live in Hong Kong. Hong Kong is DVD region 3, and US is 1. So I guess that the disc is used to make DVD's work in Hong Kong.
I tried playing a DVD region 2 movie, and it works.
For bluray, Hong Kong is region A, same as US.

 

Just to confirm what you've already concluded - I also live in Hong Kong and received the SuperDisc with my player. The local distributor (BO Acoustics) seems to be including it for all resellers. I haven't used it yet though because I have no need.

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post #5014 of 8963
1/29/13 at 1:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Hi:

My 4-port Netgear wireless gigabit router(WNDR 3700) is all used up (Oppo, TV, Torus Power Conditioner and Moxi DVR). I can't seem to find 8/12 or 16 port high speed gigabit wireless routers. All i seem to find are just non-wireless plain routers. Anyone know of any good 8-port 1G wireless routers? If not, can i somehow combine an 8-port 1G router switch with my 4-port wireless router with no issues or performance hit? Sorry for the OT...
I don't know what your need is, but it's probably just to have more Internet-enabled devices be able to get to your router via wired connection than the max of 4 ports available with the router itself. For example, in one corner of the room you might have an AVR, BluRay player, Windows Media Center Extender connected to your HTPC, and your "smart TV", all of which need to be able to connect to the Internet. But you only have one Ethernet wall jack in that corner which is connected via Ethernet cable to your router somewhere else in the house. So you want that one wall jack to really be four jacks.

You don't want multiple routers (with each of the additional routers introducing additional firewall/security and impenetrable LAN behind it), with the second router in this corner. What you want is "port multipliers", i.e. "Ethernet switch", like this simple 5-port GS105 gigabit Ethernet switch from Netgear. You connect that one wall jack to one port of the switch, and then you connect the other four Ethernet-enabled devices to the other four ports of the switch. It's now like you had one dedicated Ethernet wall jack for each of those four devices, but done through the simplicity of a "switch".

With a "switch" there is zero additional firewall/security as part of using the device. So your one-and-only true router still provides the one-and-only hardware firewall and security for your entire home LAN (on the inside of the router). The "switch" only multiples available wired connection ports into your router to more than the four physically available on the router itself.

Through the "switch" you simply "multiply the number of wired ports" available through the router. It's genuinely like you had separate and independent cables running to each device from the router, but through the magic of this switch. One cable to the switch, and multiple cables from switch to other devices. It's like having a second router at the switch location, but with no firewall, no security, and with DHCP IP addresses for all of these four devices still assigned by your one and only primary router, same as would be done for other devices wired-connected to the four ports of your true Netgear router.

Switches come in all sizes (i.e. number of ports), but they all work the identical way. One connection to the switch goes to the router, and the rest of the ports are available for adjacent devices. And they all are seen by the router and get their own IP address assigned, as if individually cabled to the router.
Edited by DSperber - 1/29/13 at 1:25am
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post #5015 of 8963
1/29/13 at 1:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdkind View Post

Note that the 103 doesn't support Dolby TrueHD in an MKV container currently. DTS-HD works fine though.
Hopefully this will be resolved at some time in the future...

Bizarrely, when you play an .MKV or .M2TS file that contains Dolby Digital Plus audio, the Oppo reports it as being Dolby TrueHD wink.gif


Cheers
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post #5016 of 8963
1/29/13 at 1:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaptorX View Post

. . . .

Any thoughts on the Emotiva experiment that I talked about in that same post?

I don't know enough about the Emotive to give you a good answer. Just be cautious when you begin until you get a handle on the levels.
--Bob
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post #5017 of 8963
1/29/13 at 4:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdkind View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Thanks bluechunks.... So, the created MKV files are bit-to-bit identical in performance and features to the original bluray file(s)? MKV supports all lossless codecs(Dolby TrueHD and DTS-MA) plus high quality lossy ones(Dolby Digital+ and DTS-HR)?

Note that the 103 doesn't support Dolby TrueHD in an MKV container currently. DTS-HD works fine though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeMoreDigital View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdkind View Post

Note that the 103 doesn't support Dolby TrueHD in an MKV container currently. DTS-HD works fine though.
Hopefully this will be resolved at some time in the future...

Bizarrely, when you play an .MKV or .M2TS file that contains Dolby Digital Plus audio, the Oppo reports it as being Dolby TrueHD wink.gif


Cheers

Isn't Dolby TrueHD working in MKV now?

-Bill
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post #5018 of 8963
1/29/13 at 4:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcclain View Post


Isn't Dolby TrueHD working in MKV now?

-Bill

Yes & No. You have to set the Oppo Audio Format to LPCM in order to get sound output as it will not work in Auto Mode and will not bitstream. Also, it has a problem with TrueHD 7.1. Info Screens Shows MLP 7.1 but, the actual audio output is 5.1 not 7.1 See images.






I notified Oppo about this: "We have forward your observations to the engineers whom will look into replicating them in-house and resolving them through a future firmware release."
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post #5019 of 8963
1/29/13 at 4:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcclain View Post


Isn't Dolby TrueHD working in MKV now?

-Bill
IIRC, yes but only if you set the Oppo to LPCM output instead of bitstream. I don't currently have any files to test this with.
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post #5020 of 8963
1/29/13 at 5:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by MurrayW View Post


Search is your friend,  http://www.avsforum.com/newsearch/?search=%2B1+sharpness&resultSortingPreference=recency&output=posts&type=all&containingthread[0]=1432162&advanced=1


Thanks!!!
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post #5021 of 8963
1/29/13 at 5:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Hi:

My 4-port Netgear wireless gigabit router(WNDR 3700) is all used up (Oppo, TV, Torus Power Conditioner and Moxi DVR). I can't seem to find 8/12 or 16 port high speed gigabit wireless routers. All i seem to find are just non-wireless plain routers. Anyone know of any good 8-port 1G wireless routers? If not, can i somehow combine an 8-port 1G router switch with my 4-port wireless router with no issues or performance hit? Sorry for the OT...

- David
You don't need to replace your router. Get a wireless access point and, if needed, a multiport switch to attach to it. This is what I did and it works fine. If your router is near your HT gear, then you don't need an access point, just a switch. It usually works best if you use a switch and/or access point from the same manufacturer.

My router is in my office and the Netgear access point is on the stand for my HT gear. They are about 20 feet apart with a couple of walls in between. I have a 4-port switch attached to the access point and my TV, receiver and Oppo are attached to it. If you need more than 4 ports, there are 8-port switches available from Netgear.
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post #5022 of 8963
1/29/13 at 5:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post

I don't know what your need is, but it's probably just to have more Internet-enabled devices be able to get to your router via wired connection than the max of 4 ports available with the router itself. For example, in one corner of the room you might have an AVR, BluRay player, Windows Media Center Extender connected to your HTPC, and your "smart TV", all of which need to be able to connect to the Internet. But you only have one Ethernet wall jack in that corner which is connected via Ethernet cable to your router somewhere else in the house. So you want that one wall jack to really be four jacks.

You don't want multiple routers (with each of the additional routers introducing additional firewall/security and impenetrable LAN behind it), with the second router in this corner. What you want is "port multipliers", i.e. "Ethernet switch", like this simple 5-port GS105 gigabit Ethernet switch from Netgear. You connect that one wall jack to one port of the switch, and then you connect the other four Ethernet-enabled devices to the other four ports of the switch. It's now like you had one dedicated Ethernet wall jack for each of those four devices, but done through the simplicity of a "switch".

With a "switch" there is zero additional firewall/security as part of using the device. So your one-and-only true router still provides the one-and-only hardware firewall and security for your entire home LAN (on the inside of the router). The "switch" only multiples available wired connection ports into your router to more than the four physically available on the router itself.

Through the "switch" you simply "multiply the number of wired ports" available through the router. It's genuinely like you had separate and independent cables running to each device from the router, but through the magic of this switch. One cable to the switch, and multiple cables from switch to other devices. It's like having a second router at the switch location, but with no firewall, no security, and with DHCP IP addresses for all of these four devices still assigned by your one and only primary router, same as would be done for other devices wired-connected to the four ports of your true Netgear router.

Switches come in all sizes (i.e. number of ports), but they all work the identical way. One connection to the switch goes to the router, and the rest of the ports are available for adjacent devices. And they all are seen by the router and get their own IP address assigned, as if individually cabled to the router.

+1 to a great answer!

And many good hi-speed switches are inexpensive as well.

My three 5-port TRENDnet S50g gigabit switches cost less than $30 each. Believe I paid $19.95 for each some time ago. Metal box. Excellent stability of signals.

Note that the number of switch ports will be one more than those with which you can expand. i.e. One of the ports will be used for your in-incoming Ethernet connection and the remainder for your downstream connections. So on my S50g, one port is used for ethernet from the router and the remaining 4 ports are available to connect to other devices.

atlantaaudio
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post #5023 of 8963
1/29/13 at 7:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzGuyy View Post

You don't need to replace your router. Get a wireless access point and, if needed, a multiport switch to attach to it. This is what I did and it works fine. If your router is near your HT gear, then you don't need an access point, just a switch. It usually works best if you use a switch and/or access point from the same manufacturer.

My router is in my office and the Netgear access point is on the stand for my HT gear. They are about 20 feet apart with a couple of walls in between. I have a 4-port switch attached to the access point and my TV, receiver and Oppo are attached to it. If you need more than 4 ports, there are 8-port switches available from Netgear.

Beware what you may be giving up with an access port. If one wants full all Gigabit access for all of wired devices, then skip the access port and just get a decent sized Gigabit switch. Consider only an access port if you don't care about a possible speed reduction and you prefer the connivence of not running a cable.

I believe the original poster only ran out of ports on their router and wanted to be able to expand for more equipment, so in that case I would recommend, just getting a Gigabit switch. Make sure you have some spare ports when considering the size. You will need to use one port to connect the switch to the router and as you are already full, one of the connected devices will need to come off the router and onto the switch.
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post #5024 of 8963
1/29/13 at 7:37am
Is anyone getting popping sounds through analog out? I have my Comcast box on native setting in the oppo input, and any change in resolution results in a somewhat annoying pop in the speakers. I can mute it by pressing mute before changin resolution but that is kind if annoying. I am hoping oppo in a firmware could implement an auto mute feature of some sort on resolution changes. An overall improvement in the hdmi handshake process on oppo's end would be great as well when using the oppo input.
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post #5025 of 8963
1/29/13 at 8:14am
I am a long time Denon 3808 owner and the unit has worked flawlessly in my HT for years. In the past few weeks I purchased an Epson 6020 pj (to replace my 3 yr old Epson 8500UB) and an Oppo 103. My plan was to run the HDMI 1 output from the Oppo to the pj so I can get 3D video and to have HDMI 2 ouput to the 3808 for audio only. On paper this looked like a great solution to extend the life of the 3808 and not replace it.

However, when I tried this last night I was able to get the picture working fine, but no audio. :-(

I played around in both the Denon 3808 and Oppo 103 menus, but still no audio.

I really want this to work as I don't want to buy a newer Denon AVR just so I can have 3D video.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for your help and input.

George
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post #5026 of 8963
1/29/13 at 9:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcclain View Post


Isn't Dolby TrueHD working in MKV now?

-Bill
Yes, the current situation is as pciav and gsr have described...

Which reminds me... Here's something that may be worth noting about MKVmergeGUI: -
Quote:
2013-01-01 Moritz Bunkus
* mkvmerge, mmg: removal: The 'header removal compression' method is not turned on by default anymore. This affects the following track types: AC3, AVC/h.264, Dirac, DTS, MP3. The setting in mmg that turned it off by default has been removed.

After all the problems every hardware player manufacturer had to go through to add support for 'compressed headers' when Mosu introduced the feature 'by default', back in July 2010, he's now removed it!!!

Cheers
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post #5027 of 8963
1/29/13 at 11:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt5094 View Post

I am a huge fan of dbpoweramp. I just processed 600+ cds though it and outputted each one to three different formats simultaneously. http://www.dbpoweramp.com/

+1
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post #5028 of 8963
1/29/13 at 11:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Hi:

My 4-port Netgear wireless gigabit router(WNDR 3700) is all used up (Oppo, TV, Torus Power Conditioner and Moxi DVR). I can't seem to find 8/12 or 16 port high speed gigabit wireless routers. All i seem to find are just non-wireless plain routers. Anyone know of any good 8-port 1G wireless routers? If not, can i somehow combine an 8-port 1G router switch with my 4-port wireless router with no issues or performance hit? Sorry for the OT...

- David

I use the same router (excellent, by the way). Just add a network switch to one of the ports on the router and plug in there. I have a 5 port Asus gigabit switch and an old linksys 4 port 10/100 switch attached.
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post #5029 of 8963
1/29/13 at 11:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Recstar24 View Post

Is anyone getting popping sounds through analog out? I have my Comcast box on native setting in the oppo input, and any change in resolution results in a somewhat annoying pop in the speakers. I can mute it by pressing mute before changin resolution but that is kind if annoying. I am hoping oppo in a firmware could implement an auto mute feature of some sort on resolution changes. An overall improvement in the hdmi handshake process on oppo's end would be great as well when using the oppo input.

They are working on it since the beginning of January
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post #5030 of 8963
1/29/13 at 1:40pm
Hi,

I am thinking about upgrading my 95 to a 103....did a search but came up empty..
What is the general conses of the 2d-3d conversion?

And is the change major on their features?
Thanks
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post #5031 of 8963
1/29/13 at 2:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pciav View Post

Yes & No. You have to set the Oppo Audio Format to LPCM in order to get sound output as it will not work in Auto Mode and will not bitstream. Also, it has a problem with TrueHD 7.1. Info Screens Shows MLP 7.1 but, the actual audio output is 5.1 not 7.1 See images.
Slightly off-topic, but how does one display the "General / Audio" screen above -- the one that is showing details about the audio stream -- with the data points: "Sound Mode / Input Signal / Sample Rate / Format"?
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post #5032 of 8963
1/29/13 at 2:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scott_bernstein View Post

Slightly off-topic, but how does one display the "General / Audio" screen above -- the one that is showing details about the audio stream -- with the data points: "Sound Mode / Input Signal / Sample Rate / Format"?
That is a function of your Receiver, Pre-Pro etc. in my case the Marantz AV8801
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post #5033 of 8963
1/29/13 at 3:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pciav View Post

That is a function of your Receiver, Pre-Pro etc. in my case the Marantz AV8801
Ah, thanks. I thought it was a buried screen in the Oppo that I just hadn't found yet.

I'm slightly surprised that despite its ability to show me that I'm getting, for example a "Dolby Digital 5.1 48khz" signal when I press the info button, and its ability to show me the video bitrate, the BDP-103 doesn't show me the audio bitrate (on compressed material -- 192khz DD or 384khz DD, etc.), or the audio bit depth (16/24/etc) on uncompressed material, when playing Blu-Rays or DVDs -- which I'd be interested in seeing.
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post #5034 of 8963
1/29/13 at 4:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hodges69 View Post

Hi,

I am thinking about upgrading my 95 to a 103....did a search but came up empty..
What is the general conses of the 2d-3d conversion?

And is the change major on their features?
Thanks

 

I was actually pretty impressed with the 2-D to 3-D conversion on the 103. I watched the sound of music and Star Wars episode III and it looked pretty good, not like an original 3D but certainly a noticeable 3d effect, especially in large outside scenes. I'm not sure i would make it a habbit, but if you like 3d it's pretty cool.

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post #5035 of 8963
1/29/13 at 4:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by astrogeeker View Post

I was actually pretty impressed with the 2-D to 3-D conversion on the 103. I watched the sound of music and Star Wars episode III and it looked pretty good, not like an original 3D but certainly a noticeable 3d effect, especially in large outside scenes. I'm not sure i would make it a habbit, but if you like 3d it's pretty cool.


Thanks...I M still kind of on the fence...I am more of a videophile...and since the chips are the same in both the 93 and 105 are the same ,the 2 d to 3d does not ,in itself,give me reaon to pull the trigger....any thoughtIt other reason,you can offer would be appreciated...
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post #5036 of 8963
1/29/13 at 7:00pm
Hdmi input. Works really nice with cable, other than handshake quirks.
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post #5037 of 8963
1/29/13 at 8:14pm

Thanks DSperber, JazzGuy, Terry Mann, Ajaxmike and darkphader for your great answers to my Ethernet port multiplier issue...Awesome guys you must be in personbiggrin.gif!!!

 

So, to summarize, i'd do the following?

 

1.  Connect all of my current ethernet connections(Oppo, CableTV, Power Conditioner and Synology NAS) into the new switch. I'm leaning towards the TRENDnet 8-port GREENnet switch as its about $30, supports ethernet Jumbo Frames(9K) and runs much much cooler than the Netgear ones which run rather hot (one of the major complaints on Amazon reviews). Thanks for the GS105 recommendation DSperber as i compared it TRENDnet on features and reviews on Amazon....

 

2.  Connect the cable modem feed that was the major input into the wireless router into the TRENDnet switch as well, right?

 

3.  Connect a new ethernet cable from one of the switch ports into the now empty Netgear wireless router 4GbE ports or its input Internet Port(marked in yellow on my router)?

 

4.  Do i have to configure the TRENDnet switch on my laptop somehow or in the Netger configuration settings somehow or just leave it alone as it just plain works as is?

 

I apologize for the simpleton questions but i'm not a Net geek at all, despite having advanced degrees in Electrical Engineering and Engineer Physicsredface.gif!

 

(Just got my Synology NAS last week and figuring out(with Tech Support) why the thing is so slow transferring files at a measly 30MB/sec instead of 100MB/s or more. I think this thing is Unix and i don't speak Unix with its weird  & arcane command line language, though it has anice GUI. Pashtun anyone???smile.gif).


Edited by dmusoke - 1/29/13 at 8:23pm
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post #5038 of 8963
1/29/13 at 8:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

1.  Connect all of my current ethernet connections(Oppo, CableTV, Power Conditioner and Synology NAS) into the new switch.
Yes.
Quote:
2.  Connect the cable modem feed that was the major input into the wireless router into the TRENDnet switch as well, right?
No, leave that where it is. The whole point of the router is that it goes between the WAN (Wide Area Network, aka the internet and the output from the cable modem) and the LAN (Local Area Network - everything else in your house) and provides firewall protection between the 2, among other things. So the flow should be: cable line -> cable modem -> Ethernet output from cable modem -> WAN input on router -> LAN output from router -> port on switch -> other switch ports -> various network devices in your house.
Quote:
3.  Connect a new ethernet cable from one of the switch ports into the now empty Netgear wireless router 4GbE ports or its input Internet Port(marked in yellow on my router)?
Connect a network cable from one of the switch ports to one of the LAN ports on your router (basically any port EXCEPT that yellow port).
Quote:
4.  Do i have to configure the TRENDnet switch on my laptop somehow or in the Netger configuration settings somehow or just leave it alone as it just plain works as is?
If it's not a managed switch, and it's unlikely that a $30 switch will be a manged switch, there's nothing to configure.
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post #5039 of 8963
1/29/13 at 8:46pm

^^^ Awesome Geoff, thank you so very much!!!

 

I'm amazed at how folks get so knowledgable on all things NET. Makes me feel as though i've been living on a commune, in the hills, away from life and civilization..only to escape and land in the 21st centurytongue.gif! What a shock it is for me indeed!

 

 

PS

Can i connect the low speed devices such as power conditioner into the router ports and free up some ports on the 8-port switch or is it better to have all E-connections on the switch. I'd hate to have the 4 GbE ports empty on the router if i could use them for something useful.

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post #5040 of 8963
1/29/13 at 8:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

PS
Can i connect the low speed devices such as power conditioner into the router ports and free up some ports on the 8-port switch or is it better to have all E-connections on the switch. I'd hate to have the 4 GbE ports empty on the router if i could use them for something useful.
Yes, you can do that, though I'd probably keep everything on the switch until you actually run out of ports.
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