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Official OPPO BDP-103 Owner's Thread - Page 170

post #5071 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Hi:

My 4-port Netgear wireless gigabit router(WNDR 3700) is all used up (Oppo, TV, Torus Power Conditioner and Moxi DVR). I can't seem to find 8/12 or 16 port high speed gigabit wireless routers. All i seem to find are just non-wireless plain routers. Anyone know of any good 8-port 1G wireless routers? If not, can i somehow combine an 8-port 1G router switch with my 4-port wireless router with no issues or performance hit? Sorry for the OT...

- David

I apologize for being a little late with this but you do not need any ethernet hardware that supports gigabit ehternet (10/100/1000). The reason is that the ethernet equipped devices that you are using have only 10/100 megabit ports. Gigabit eithernet is another feature like deep color that there is nothing that uses it. All the internet capable devices in my home are 10/100. There is ususally a 15 to 20 dollar price difference between the 10/100 switches and the 10/100/1000 switches.
You also have to consider that even though a device has a 10/100 megabit port doesn't mean that the hardware in that device can process that much data. The CPU in your devices might not be able to process that much data so your speeds will be even more limited to the internal hardware capabilities of each device. An example, If your computer can output 50 mbps but your OPPO can only take in 25mbps then the transport speed between the two devices will be 25mbps. For the average home owner with the whole family accessing the internet at once will probably never need more than 50 meg down from your ISP because of the limitations of the consumers devices.
I just added a 8 port 10/100 Netgear switch to my structured media panel as I ran out of ports on my wired router. I have my two computers and networked printer hooked into the switch and then that is hooked to one of the ports in my router. I have a five port 10/100 switch at my tv downstairs, which has my OPPO, Onkyo, and soon to arrive Tivo hooked into it. Then it is hooked into another port in my router in the panel. My bedroom tv has another five port 10/100 switch with my Pioneer Blu ray player and another soon to arrive Tivo hooked into it. This switch is also hooked into another port in my router.
If you want to you can hook another switch to your current switch if you decide to feed another location.
post #5072 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by mental1 View Post

What cable provider do you have?

Comcast. Using a rng200n. Which I believe is a Motorola 3400
post #5073 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smigro View Post

When you say the sellers standard mod, I am guessing you did not get this straight through Oppo. Would you mind sharing who you bought yours from?

I bought from a store in Sweden. I'm not sure whether they fitted it themselves or if it was done by the distributor. It seems every seller are offering modded ones here.
post #5074 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajaxmike View Post

I use the same router (excellent, by the way). Just add a network switch to one of the ports on the router and plug in there. I have a 5 port Asus gigabit switch and an old linksys 4 port 10/100 switch attached.

Yes, just add a switch to one of the ports of the router to give you more ports. You would think all switches are similar (since they aren't very clever) ... but they are not. Some switches handle traffic terribly and get very hot.

If anyone is looking for a superb 5 port switch that I've being using for the last 6 months with heavy video IP traffic, its the TP-Link TL-SG1005D, $20 from amazon !! Thing is awesome.
post #5075 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed1 View Post

Gigabit eithernet is another feature like deep color that there is nothing that uses it. All the internet capable devices in my home are 10/100.
Just because the devices in your home don't, doens't mean that none do. Computer to computer transfers alone make enough sense to use gigabit thoughout the house. You never know when you're going to move things around or add in a computer.

Even though you may not need Gigabit now, it makes sense to put it in to future-proof things. Either that, or pay a little now and more later. Most computer hard drives are capable of a bare minimum read speed of 50 MB per second (that would be 400 Mbps), most are more. If you ever end up streaming HD video from your computer to your future Xbox, XBox 720, Wii U, HTPC, new TV with streaming, someone's laptop, someone's ipad, _insert_future_device_here_, and you want to be able to have someone else use the laptop, streaming TV, etc. while you are streaming from your Oppo all at the same time, without hiccups, you're going to need a better than 10/100 link to you PC holding all the content.

On the other hand, if only one device is ever going to be in use at any one time, and you never plan to change this, then yes, a 10/100 switch should be fine for a perfect experience on your Oppo.
post #5076 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post

Given choices and options, I'd reserve the other router ports (which are individually gigabit pathways) to other home computers on your LAN (laptops or desktops), which themselves have built-in gigabit-speed NIC adapters in them so they can really talk to each other through the router at true internal LAN gigabit speeds (e.g. when you do a file transfer from one PC to another across your home network). Of course this might not always reach such speeds, e.g. if you don't have CAT5e or CAT6 cable in your home LAN, or if the nature of the file transfer involves "block transfers" and software running in both machines that just brings down the maximum theoretically possible speed to something more realistic in the real world.
If we're talking about a gigabit switch connected to a gigabit router (with an integrated switch), there's no need to dedicate the ports on the router to PC's for the reasons you list. If 2 PC's are both connected to the switch, no traffic goes through the router for the PC's to communicate with each other - the switch will figure out how to connect the 2 and all traffic will remain on the switch. The devices on the switch only go through the router to get to the WAN (internet) and will obviously go to the router's integrated switch if the device they need to talk to is plugged into one of the ports on the router. The more important consideration on inexpensive hardware would be whether the switch built into the router is better or worse than the external switch that was added to the system. Ideally, the higher speed devices will all be connected to whichever performs better.

The classic example of this is connecting a gigabit switch to a router that only has 10/100 ports. Devices on the switch will still be able to transfer data between each other at gigabit speeds even though the router can only do 10/100.
post #5077 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by davboy View Post

Finally took the plunge on the 103 after eying both the 93, and now 103 for sometime. Thanks to everyone on this forum for the terrific information! Friday can't come soon enough!

Enjoy, it is worth the price for the speed in which it loads blu-ray discs if you ask me....and for so much more.smile.gif
post #5078 of 16358
Does anyone know if it is possible to undo the "superdisk" ?

thanks
post #5079 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by cocoon View Post

Does anyone know if it is possible to undo the "superdisk" ?

thanks

I don't believe so. Is it causing trouble?

-Bill
post #5080 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by cocoon View Post

Does anyone know if it is possible to undo the "superdisk" ?

thanks

I know that Bob said you can't above, but I heard that you have to redo the SuperDisk after firmware updates. I can't remember where I read that, so I could be wrong. It couldn't hurt to try to re-install the current firmware to undo the SuperDisk. I know you can't do it via network updates... but maybe you can manually reinstall current firmware via USB? Maybe someone with more OPPO experience than I can chime in and help.

post #5081 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcclain View Post

I don't believe so. Is it causing trouble?

-Bill

I don't think it is causing problems. Probably just something I didn't notice before.

720p 23.976fps and 1080p 23.976fps mkv and avi files are sent to TV as 23.976fps but similar mp4 out are sent at 60hz.
post #5082 of 16358
I have a 103 that I just received from AV Science. I have it connected via HDMI to a Sony STR-DN1030 receiver. Whenever I stop the Blu-Ray player and restart or change the input on the Blu-ray player such as going from disc to Netflix, I lose audio. If I stop a Netflix show and start another one, I also lose audio. All I have to do to get it back is switch the input on the Sony receiverto anything other than DVD and then switch it back to the DVD input and audio comes back. Easy enough work around, but very annoying.

I have tried switching HMDI cables and switching HDMI inputs on the receiver, but the problem persists. I only have this issue with the Oppo 103 and cannot recreate the issue with another DVD player, a Roku, or cable box, so I'm inclined to think it is the Oppo.

Anyone have any suggestions?
post #5083 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jed1 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Hi:

My 4-port Netgear wireless gigabit router(WNDR 3700) is all used up (Oppo, TV, Torus Power Conditioner and Moxi DVR). I can't seem to find 8/12 or 16 port high speed gigabit wireless routers. All i seem to find are just non-wireless plain routers. Anyone know of any good 8-port 1G wireless routers? If not, can i somehow combine an 8-port 1G router switch with my 4-port wireless router with no issues or performance hit? Sorry for the OT...

- David

I apologize for being a little late with this but you do not need any ethernet hardware that supports gigabit ehternet (10/100/1000). The reason is that the ethernet equipped devices that you are using have only 10/100 megabit ports. Gigabit eithernet is another feature like deep color that there is nothing that uses it. All the internet capable devices in my home are 10/100. There is ususally a 15 to 20 dollar price difference between the 10/100 switches and the 10/100/1000 switches.
You also have to consider that even though a device has a 10/100 megabit port doesn't mean that the hardware in that device can process that much data. The CPU in your devices might not be able to process that much data so your speeds will be even more limited to the internal hardware capabilities of each device. An example, If your computer can output 50 mbps but your OPPO can only take in 25mbps then the transport speed between the two devices will be 25mbps. For the average home owner with the whole family accessing the internet at once will probably never need more than 50 meg down from your ISP because of the limitations of the consumers devices.
I just added a 8 port 10/100 Netgear switch to my structured media panel as I ran out of ports on my wired router. I have my two computers and networked printer hooked into the switch and then that is hooked to one of the ports in my router. I have a five port 10/100 switch at my tv downstairs, which has my OPPO, Onkyo, and soon to arrive Tivo hooked into it. Then it is hooked into another port in my router in the panel. My bedroom tv has another five port 10/100 switch with my Pioneer Blu ray player and another soon to arrive Tivo hooked into it. This switch is also hooked into another port in my router.
If you want to you can hook another switch to your current switch if you decide to feed another location.

 

Jed:

 

Thanks for your input on this matter and i would agree with you that most media components would not need to communicate past 100Mbps BUT i have a new Synology DS1812+ NAS with 3 SATAIII 3-TB Western Digital RED drives and (2) GbE ports. My drives have an internal transfer rate of almost 400MB/s and yet the Gigabit port is saturated at a theoretical data rate of 125MB/s (1000Mbps/8), so the GbE port is the bottleneck here. I need to have these speeds to support multiple HD streams and other media streams in my house, so yes, i do need a switch capable of 1000Mbps data rates.

 

- David

post #5084 of 16358
I placed my purchase order for the Oppo 103 on Jan 29th,UPS is dropping it off tomorrow the 31st.I'm curious whether the USB slots are for small drives 16Gb,32Gb etc….or may I use them to play stored music"Flac files" and ripped movie AVI,MKV,MV4 files stored on 1,2 and 3 Terabyte drives,without having to connect my old "Boxee Box"?I will use the Oppo for my hundreds of Blu-rays,but I collect B+W movies ripped from movies from the 20's,30's,40's,50's,and 60's that I lost in my divorce and no longer have the DVD's or VHS copies.confused.gif
post #5085 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricker62 View Post

I placed my purchase order for the Oppo 103 on Jan 29th,UPS is dropping it off tomorrow the 31st.I'm curious whether the USB slots are for small drives 16Gb,32Gb etc….or may I use them to play stored music"Flac files" and ripped movie AVI,MKV,MV4 files stored on 1,2 and 3 Terabyte drives,without having to connect my old "Boxee Box"?I will use the Oppo for my hundreds of Blu-rays,but I collect B+W movies ripped from movies from the 20's,30's,40's,50's,and 60's that I lost in my divorce and no longer have the DVD's or VHS copies.confused.gif

You can connect any sized HD to the USB port. Larger drives usually require an external power supply, but they'll ship with it if necessary. I use a 320GB USB-powered drive now for when my SMB starts acting up. So feel free to load all those movies onto a 4TB drive.

post #5086 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Can i connect the low speed devices such as power conditioner into the router ports and free up some ports on the 8-port switch or is it better to have all E-connections on the switch. I'd hate to have the 4 GbE ports empty on the router if i could use them for something useful.
The "port multiplier" effect of the switch really has just increased the number of wired ports available through your router (just the same as if they were additional wired ports actually on your router), subject to the one obvious consideration that the net sum total traffic from the total of all the real downstream devices connected to the other ports on the switch are all going to have to be communicated (in both directions) over the one Ethernet cable connecting the switch to one true LAN port on the router.
 

Dsperber ...thank you so much for this excellent tutorial in ethenet switches 101 for newbies like mesmile.gif. Very informative and very helpful, thanks!

post #5087 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricker62 View Post

I placed my purchase order for the Oppo 103 on Jan 29th,UPS is dropping it off tomorrow the 31st.I'm curious whether the USB slots are for small drives 16Gb,32Gb etc….or may I use them to play stored music"Flac files" and ripped movie AVI,MKV,MV4 files stored on 1,2 and 3 Terabyte drives,without having to connect my old "Boxee Box"?I will use the Oppo for my hundreds of Blu-rays,but I collect B+W movies ripped from movies from the 20's,30's,40's,50's,and 60's that I lost in my divorce and no longer have the DVD's or VHS copies.confused.gif

You can connect large drives, but there is a limitation in the current firmware to 2TB partition size. Thus you will need to break larger drives into separate partitions, each 2TB or smaller. Each such partition, when formatted, will appear to the OPPO to be a separate drive. You must use GPT (GUID on the Mac) as the method for the partitioning table in order to allow partitions this size.

I believe OPPO still hopes to be able to remove this limitation to 2 TB partitions in future firmware.
--Bob
post #5088 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoney35 View Post

I have a 103 that I just received from AV Science. I have it connected via HDMI to a Sony STR-DN1030 receiver. Whenever I stop the Blu-Ray player and restart or change the input on the Blu-ray player such as going from disc to Netflix, I lose audio. If I stop a Netflix show and start another one, I also lose audio. All I have to do to get it back is switch the input on the Sony receiverto anything other than DVD and then switch it back to the DVD input and audio comes back. Easy enough work around, but very annoying.

I have tried switching HMDI cables and switching HDMI inputs on the receiver, but the problem persists. I only have this issue with the Oppo 103 and cannot recreate the issue with another DVD player, a Roku, or cable box, so I'm inclined to think it is the Oppo.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Send OPPO Tech Support an email with the details and see if they have any history with this receiver.

In the interim, try setting HDMI Audio LPCM instead of either Bitstream or AUTO.

It sounds like you receiver is having trouble recognizing the restarted digital audio stream as valid, so it is muting the audio. Typically, LPCM input is easier for receivers to parse than Bitstream input.

Also try disabling any feature in the receiver that tells it to switch which audio input it uses if it thinks digital audio has gone away on the currently selected input. E.g., "auto-switch" to an Analog input or to the "next" live digital input.
--Bob
post #5089 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by cocoon View Post

Does anyone know if it is possible to undo the "superdisk" ?

thanks

There was a report in the 93 Owner's Thread stating that the effect of the SuperDisc was reversed if you did a re-install of the firmware using the Front USB port while NOTHING was connected to the rear USB/eSata ports -- not even the Wifi dongle. I'm not sure that was ever really confirmed, nor whether it might also be true for the 103/105.

The posters in that case were attempting to use a particular brand of "region-free" hardware mod which would not work if you installed it while the SuperDisc stuff was also in effect. This was the purported solution back then.
--Bob
post #5090 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by balboarules View Post

Hey guys

I just took my 103 and ran the hdmi straight to the receiver, I have a denon avr3310CI, and I was using HDMI 2 for audio, but that lip sync issue was driving me nuts.. did they ever mention a firmware update that was coming, or was already done? Basically, I traded off 3D (since the denon cannot pass 3d) for the audio to be spot on.

I am not sure if this was covered, but I really did not want to dig through 170 pages to find out.

Thanks
Steve

From your brief description, I'd say the odds are excellent that the lip-sync issue you experienced when using both HDMI outputs is *NOT* due to the OPPO but rather to your AVR.

The problem is that the AVR does not know you have bypassed it for video, and so it is adding in a chunk of audio delay to be "helpful" -- to correct for its own video processing time. Indeed, this is so common I've even named it the "helpful AVR" problem. AVRs that do this, will do it even though their own, user settable adjustment for audio delay is showing 0 delay added.

If that's what's going on, then the trick is to set the AVR so it knows that it is NOT processing video. Typically this is done either by setting HDMI video "pass through" or turning off HDMI video output in the AVR.

The key is your report that the problem is happening with dual cabling from the OPPO but not when you run just HDMI 1 (audio and video both going through the AVR).
--Bob
post #5091 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

I'm thinking the S&M BD is out of print and not available. They have a new disc coming out later this year with 3D tests and other new goodies.

To add to that, while waiting for Spears & Munsil to release their new version, I'd suggest folks use the Disney "WOW World of Wonder" calibration discs -- both SD-DVD and Blu-ray versions exist -- and/or the "DVE HD Basics", Blu-ray disc.

I've got a bone to pick with the Disney WOW discs, however, as they recommend setting white levels so that "peak whites" (Luma in the range 236-255) are not distinguishably brighter than "reference white' (Luma 235). Set this way, you WILL get a brighter image as the full output capability of the display is applied to Reference White. But content on both SD-DVDs and Blu-rays includes pixels with values in the Peak White range, and if those are not distinguishably brighter you will lose out on glints, highlights, sparks and bright cloud detail. I'm sure Disney did this because not all displays are ABLE to reproduce Peak Whites (whereas all have to reproduce up to Reference White reliably), and also folks tend to be setting displays for use in brighter rooms than "ideal". But you can still use the Disney WOW discs if you understand all this and just ignore their instruction to raise Contrast until those Peak Whites go away.
--Bob
post #5092 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Hi:

My 4-port Netgear wireless gigabit router(WNDR 3700) is all used up (Oppo, TV, Torus Power Conditioner and Moxi DVR). I can't seem to find 8/12 or 16 port high speed gigabit wireless routers. All i seem to find are just non-wireless plain routers. Anyone know of any good 8-port 1G wireless routers? If not, can i somehow combine an 8-port 1G router switch with my 4-port wireless router with no issues or performance hit? Sorry for the OT...

- David

Hi,
I think you can get a gigabit switch on Newegg.com. It's pretty cheap with promotion.
post #5093 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

You can connect large drives, but there is a limitation in the current firmware to 2TB partition size. Thus you will need to break larger drives into separate partitions, each 2TB or smaller. Each such partition, when formatted, will appear to the OPPO to be a separate drive. You must use GPT (GUID on the Mac) as the method for the partitioning table in order to allow partitions this size.

I believe OPPO still hopes to be able to remove this limitation to 2 TB partitions in future firmware.
--Bob
Thanks Bob, very helpful!
Dave
post #5094 of 16358
Hi Bob

Thank you...I will try to check into that when I get home. Not if there are settings for pass through..but I will play around with it..I hope you are correct as this will make my set up exactly as I want it to be.

Steve
post #5095 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

From your brief description, I'd say the odds are excellent that the lip-sync issue you experienced when using both HDMI outputs is *NOT* due to the OPPO but rather to your AVR.

The problem is that the AVR does not know you have bypassed it for video, and so it is adding in a chunk of audio delay to be "helpful" -- to correct for its own video processing time. Indeed, this is so common I've even named it the "helpful AVR" problem. AVRs that do this, will do it even though their own, user settable adjustment for audio delay is showing 0 delay added.

If that's what's going on, then the trick is to set the AVR so it knows that it is NOT processing video. Typically this is done either by setting HDMI video "pass through" or turning off HDMI video output in the AVR.

The key is your report that the problem is happening with dual cabling from the OPPO but not when you run just HDMI 1 (audio and video both going through the AVR).
--Bob

There is certainly a lip-sync issue and if I set a manual delay of say 20ms, it may or may not work with the next BD I play. I watched the new (IMO terrible!) Total Recall last weekend and the audio was completely out-of-sync. I asked oppo support and got: "Total Recall has a known synchronization error when bit streaming. LPCM does not suffer from this error. This is something that we hope to fix through a future firmware release."

So, I don't have a problem having to setup a manual delay on the AVR; my problem is that it won't work for all BDs.

Short-term solution seems to be setting LPCM for the time being.
post #5096 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by candoan View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmusoke View Post

Hi:

My 4-port Netgear wireless gigabit router(WNDR 3700) is all used up (Oppo, TV, Torus Power Conditioner and Moxi DVR). I can't seem to find 8/12 or 16 port high speed gigabit wireless routers. All i seem to find are just non-wireless plain routers. Anyone know of any good 8-port 1G wireless routers? If not, can i somehow combine an 8-port 1G router switch with my 4-port wireless router with no issues or performance hit? Sorry for the OT...

- David

Hi,
I think you can get a gigabit switch on Newegg.com. It's pretty cheap with promotion.

Candoan ...Thanks for the suggestion. I bought the TRENDnet TEG-S80DG from Amazon (approx. $58). Newegg never had it in stock.

post #5097 of 16358
Hello everyone. Newbie on this forum, though I've been reading all of the posts in this thread for the past few days. Coincidentally or not, I've also had a headache for the past few days. At any rate, I'm excited in that my new 103 will arrive tomorrow. The posts I have read have been extremely helpful, but I do have a question that I don't believe has been completely addressed. Currently, I have a Classe CA-2100 amp, and use a Yamaha RX-V3800 as an AVR. My current setup is: DirecTV PVR, Sony BDP, Sony VCR, Pioneer LDP (yeah, I'm old), and a Boxee Box (for streaming media from my NAS) connected to the Yamaha, with HDMI out to the Samsung display. Harmony One remote controls everything. I was thinking for upconverting video from the other sources (other than the Sony BDP, which will be going away) that I could continue to run all of the other devices to the Yamaha, run the HDMI output from the Yamaha to the 103, and run HDMI 1 to the Samsung and HDMI 2 back to the Yamaha (which would only be active if the Yamaha is set on BluRay). That way, all video sources would run through the 103 for upconverting without trying to connect them all to the 103. All other settings on the Yamaha would be the same (i.e., selecting the appropriate source depending upon the device selected). Do you think this would work, or will I potentially cause some sort of loop that would cause a rip in the space/time continuum?

Thanks, all, for your reply. This has been a very useful forum to read.
Edited by Johninlancaster - 1/31/13 at 11:00am
post #5098 of 16358
I have a couple week old 103 . The Denon 4520 that I have it hooked to will only play Zones with a Anolog source. ( So I have been told on this forum) I have HDMI for my Audio going to the Denon, but when I hook-up the Analogs out for my Zone ( the 2 left and right ones on the right side) ,..I get a hum. Pretty noticeable.If I hook up my cable box to the same input on the Denon, (CD) , I get a clean quite cable box audio,so it has to be the Oppo. And I tried different cables.... Anybody ever run in to this ?
post #5099 of 16358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

I've got a bone to pick with the Disney WOW discs, however, as they recommend setting white levels so that "peak whites" (Luma in the range 236-255) are not distinguishably brighter than "reference white' (Luma 235). Set this way, you WILL get a brighter image as the full output capability of the display is applied to Reference White. But content on both SD-DVDs and Blu-rays includes pixels with values in the Peak White range, and if those are not distinguishably brighter you will lose out on glints, highlights, sparks and bright cloud detail.
Hey Bob, I'm curious as to what you actually use for white a white level, if not 235.
I used to use 245. But then, I tried a full calibration (through the Oppo with the AVS 709 disc) including gamma using 16-235, and what I noticed was a slight, but noticeable increase in not just brightness, but the overall contrast ratio and image pop across dark, mid, and light areas (it was very similar to increasing the gamma on my old, 16-245 levels). I decided that I preferred that image over losing a few pixels here and there on discs that have data above 235, which I've heard is the minority of discs rather than the majority. My display (JVC RS-40) is good enough to be able to visibly resolve 235, 234, 233, etc, so I still see detail in the light areas.

In addition, I've also heard that a quality production studio uses 235 on their monitors, so even if there is a little bit of data above that, whoever was doing the color grading wasn't able to see those details either - in a sense, the 'director's intent' was for those clouds to be that bright with that amount detail if viewed on a monitor with 2.2 gamma from 16-235, and darkening the image makes more highlight detail (not just that above 235) become visible than what the colorist saw when grading that scene.

Of course, all this is just from things I've heard, and I'm curious what white level and what gamma you use. For example, a gamma of 2.2 on 16-255 results in a different gamma curve across the whole image than using a gamma of 2.2 on a 16-235 image.
post #5100 of 16358
I just ordered a 103 to replace my 83. My integra 80.2 will not let me have one HDMI for video and one for audio simulataneusly. what is my best setup to enable dsd for my SACDs?

Joel
Edited by jmschnur - 1/31/13 at 12:41pm
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