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Official OPPO BDP-103 Owner's Thread - Page 254

post #7591 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by jconde View Post

I am really not happy about this whole mess but nobody is listening to me.

What do you expect anyone to do about your unhappiness?

-Bill
post #7592 of 16385
I am not able to play .dff dsd files. The .dsf dsd file plays fine, but there is definitely missing info in the side channels. Also, I tried ripping to one big .dff master file with cue sheet. This does not work either. As mentioned previously, the ripped multichannel flac files work flawlessly from the same sacd iso rip.

IMHO, this fw is beta for a reason and not ready for prime time.
post #7593 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmcclain View Post

What do you expect anyone to do about your unhappiness?

-Bill

Listen. Lighten up ok? I don't expect you to do anything. It is just an expression.
post #7594 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidetracked View Post

Thanks for sharing your experiences and discoveries. I'd be very, very curious as to whether other people noted
the same results in toggling 1080P/24. I wonder if the use or non use could explain some of the very different reports
about HDMI 1 sharpness?

Anyone else see a difference?



Alright- I realize by my number of posts to AVS forum I may not be taken seriously, but I am a shameless lurker who has read the entire thread along with every thread related to every product I have owned in the last 7 years. (Yet, I am still modest I promise). To my EYES, here is what I see:

HDMI1 at sharpness 0 and 1080p Enabled looks a bit soft but also has a very "organic" or pleasing look to it but there is NO DOUBT to "My Eyes" that the image is softer than it should be. It is clear in hair strands, facial closeups, whites of eyes etc.
HDMI 1 at sharpness +1 certainly makes the "clarity" seem better but motion is not as natural and it causes a bit of eye tatigue with extended viewing. I always found that with sharpness +1 I'd say "Yeah, that looks awesome", then after 5 minutes of real viewing I found it distracting and harder to focus on. So back to sharpness at 0.

Then I went down the popular HDMI2 route. Crystal Clear and no eye fatigue!!! YEAH!!!! Right?? My experience there was that the image looked a bit flat and not very involving. I also saw what I thought were some color issues that may or may not have been my imagination based on finding the image more flat looking.

My hopes and dreams were for a compromise that either gave us HDMI with sharpness of 0.5, OR something that blended the clarity of HDMI2 with the natural presence of HDMI1 without the softening/noise reduction.

Now, after reading the post above, after 2 days of constant viewing through Cable box HDMI input, VUDU, Netflix, and BD titles, I can say that the reccomendation to turn OFF 1080p/24 appears to meet the criteria of the sweet spot. Clarity is improved, the image is not as "flat" as HDMI2, but not quite as "3D" looking as HDMI1 default; I also note that lip sync is better across the board.


Hope trying this helps others. For reference here is my video setup;


Oppo HDMI1 w/1080p/24 turned OFF
Output to 1080p
HDMI YCB444
Deep Color Off

HDMI1 direct to Panasonic 58VT25
HDMI 2 now audio only to Arcam AVR600
post #7595 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthkringle View Post

Alright- I realize by my number of posts to AVS forum I may not be taken seriously, but I am a shameless lurker who has read the entire thread along with every thread related to every product I have owned in the last 7 years. (Yet, I am still modest I promise). To my EYES, here is what I see:

HDMI1 at sharpness 0 and 1080p Enabled looks a bit soft but also has a very "organic" or pleasing look to it but there is NO DOUBT to "My Eyes" that the image is softer than it should be. It is clear in hair strands, facial closeups, whites of eyes etc.
HDMI 1 at sharpness +1 certainly makes the "clarity" seem better but motion is not as natural and it causes a bit of eye tatigue with extended viewing. I always found that with sharpness +1 I'd say "Yeah, that looks awesome", then after 5 minutes of real viewing I found it distracting and harder to focus on. So back to sharpness at 0.

Then I went down the popular HDMI2 route. Crystal Clear and no eye fatigue!!! YEAH!!!! Right?? My experience there was that the image looked a bit flat and not very involving. I also saw what I thought were some color issues that may or may not have been my imagination based on finding the image more flat looking.

My hopes and dreams were for a compromise that either gave us HDMI with sharpness of 0.5, OR something that blended the clarity of HDMI2 with the natural presence of HDMI1 without the softening/noise reduction.

Now, after reading the post above, after 2 days of constant viewing through Cable box HDMI input, VUDU, Netflix, and BD titles, I can say that the reccomendation to turn OFF 1080p/24 appears to meet the criteria of the sweet spot. Clarity is improved, the image is not as "flat" as HDMI2, but not quite as "3D" looking as HDMI1 default; I also note that lip sync is better across the board.


HDMI1 direct to Panasonic 58VT25
HDMI 2 now audio only to Arcam AVR600

The VT25 is well known for handling 24p poorly. You need to either set the TV to 60Hz or input 60Hz to it. Using 96Hz in the VT25 causes a range of processing issues and some chroma errors that are quite visible.
With my own VT25, I see no difference between setting the TV to 60Hz and setting the player to 60Hz, either is quite good and no chroma errors or other issues. Also good to note that the Oppo does not convert 60Hz input to 24Hz in any case.
post #7596 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthkringle View Post

Alright- I realize by my number of posts to AVS forum I may not be taken seriously, but I am a shameless lurker who has read the entire thread along with every thread related to every product I have owned in the last 7 years. (Yet, I am still modest I promise). To my EYES, here is what I see:

HDMI1 at sharpness 0 and 1080p Enabled looks a bit soft but also has a very "organic" or pleasing look to it but there is NO DOUBT to "My Eyes" that the image is softer than it should be. It is clear in hair strands, facial closeups, whites of eyes etc.
HDMI 1 at sharpness +1 certainly makes the "clarity" seem better but motion is not as natural and it causes a bit of eye tatigue with extended viewing. I always found that with sharpness +1 I'd say "Yeah, that looks awesome", then after 5 minutes of real viewing I found it distracting and harder to focus on. So back to sharpness at 0.

Then I went down the popular HDMI2 route. Crystal Clear and no eye fatigue!!! YEAH!!!! Right?? My experience there was that the image looked a bit flat and not very involving. I also saw what I thought were some color issues that may or may not have been my imagination based on finding the image more flat looking.

My hopes and dreams were for a compromise that either gave us HDMI with sharpness of 0.5, OR something that blended the clarity of HDMI2 with the natural presence of HDMI1 without the softening/noise reduction.

Now, after reading the post above, after 2 days of constant viewing through Cable box HDMI input, VUDU, Netflix, and BD titles, I can say that the reccomendation to turn OFF 1080p/24 appears to meet the criteria of the sweet spot. Clarity is improved, the image is not as "flat" as HDMI2, but not quite as "3D" looking as HDMI1 default; I also note that lip sync is better across the board.


Hope trying this helps others. For reference here is my video setup;


Oppo HDMI1 w/1080p/24 turned OFF
Output to 1080p
HDMI YCB444
Deep Color Off

HDMI1 direct to Panasonic 58VT25
HDMI 2 now audio only to Arcam AVR600

Really appreciate your taking the time to report your experiences. smile.gif
post #7597 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidetracked View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by darthkringle View Post

Alright- I realize by my number of posts to AVS forum I may not be taken seriously, but I am a shameless lurker who has read the entire thread along with every thread related to every product I have owned in the last 7 years. (Yet, I am still modest I promise). To my EYES, here is what I see:




Hope trying this helps others. For reference here is my video setup;
 

Really appreciate your taking the time to report your experiences. smile.gif

 

I agree as well. Thanks for the report darthkringle ...


Edited by dmusoke - 4/9/13 at 11:15pm
post #7598 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post

Personally I don't know of a software player which supports tags in WAV files and in particular displays album art from such a tag in a WAV file. But then I don't know all software players.

Apparently you don't know all software players wink.gif Windows Media Player v12 supports tagged WAV files; as does JRiver Media Player; as does FooBar...

However you are right about Mp3Tag supporting neither WAV nor AIF
post #7599 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeMoreDigital View Post

I wonder if Synology would be interested in adding .dff and .dsf file support?

I got a response
Quote:
Hi Mario,

Thank you for the inquiry.
I wish we could support more format too.
We will record your opinion and information into our database and forward it to our related members as a feature request.
If you have the idea/suggestion on our features, please contact us via this form,
http://www.synology.com/support/inquiry_form.php?lang=enu&type=1
Thanks for your help and feedback.

Best regards

Still waiting for a response from Oppo UK (I better should have sent the request to Oppo USA) if they could make the Oppo work together with the Minimserver. The version 0.70 supports beside DSD files also transcoding DFF and DSF files to the DoP format. Maybe a future option for the Oppo 105 owners.
post #7600 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post

I stand corrected I guess.

On a theoretical basis anyway, I suppose it is technically possible to add a tag to a WAV file... in an open ended manner. And ID3 tags were intended for MP3 file, not for WAV files, although I suppose technically you could store an ID3 tag in a WAV file as you've described.
Just-to-let-you-know... If you have a computer running Windows 7 or 8 you can back-up audio CD's to (PCM) WAV files complete with meta-data using Windows Media Player.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holzohr View Post

I got a response

Still waiting for a response from Oppo UK (I better should have sent the request to Oppo USA) if they could make the Oppo work together with the Minimserver. The version 0.70 supports beside DSD files also transcoding DFF and DSF files to the DoP format. Maybe a future option for the Oppo 105 owners.
Thanks for the update...
post #7601 of 16385
I have a friend with a pre HDMI receiver (I think Marantz 8300). Can the Oppo 103 be hooked up to it to take advantage of the newer lossless audio codecs (True HD, MA, etc)?
The receiver would turn into an amp, and the Oppo a preamp if I understand it correctly.
Thanks
post #7602 of 16385

For those on Windows using SMB and NTFS formatting, this may be a nice (temporary) work around for dealing with playlists.

 

The newest version of Foobar2000 has the built-in ability to copy files as Hard Links to a directory of your choosing. This doesn't duplicate the file, but rather links the target back to the original file, thus saving storage space. During this process, you can rename the link based on a pattern.

 

(Made some edits thanks to Flave)

  1. Load your playlist into Foobar.
  2. Select all items in the playlist, right-click, select File Operations-->Copy to... (If you have saved previous Copy operations the tree will be -->Copy-->...)
  3. In the copy dialog, select the "Link" radio button in the first row labeled "Operation type:"
  4. Select the directory you wish to copy the links to under "Destination Folder". I have created a structure like \Playlists\[PlaylistName]
  5. To insure your files stay in the playlist order prefix any naming pattern you choose with %list_index%. For example, to name my links by [Playlist Position]. [Artist] - [Title] (e.g. "01. Billy Joel - Piano Man"). I would use the following naming pattern: %list_index%. %artist% - %title%
  6. Make sure the "Copy entire source folder content" checkbox is unchecked.
  7. Click Run.

 

You will now have a folder containing links to the original files, renamed to include the playlist position at the front to insure your files appear in the folder in the same order as that of the playlist. You can set OPPO to default play-order to play the directory in the order of the playlist/folder, otherwise you can set it to Shuffle/Random to let it do its own thing.

 

Full details on how you can use naming patterns to rename your files when copying can be found here.

 

The latest version of Foobar2000 (1.2.4 as of this post) can be found here.

 

NOTE: Editing the files from the links will edit the original files! Deleting the links, however, will not touch the original data.

 

I hope this helps! Sorry for no screen caps.


Edited by globalnomad - 4/10/13 at 8:32pm
post #7603 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthkringle View Post

I can say that the reccomendation to turn OFF 1080p/24 appears to meet the criteria of the sweet spot. Clarity is improved, the image is not as "flat" as HDMI2, but not quite as "3D" looking as HDMI1 default; I also note that lip sync is better across the board.

Very interesting...

I don't really understand the details, but it seems that conversion between 1080/60 and 1080/24 uses "pull down" to add or drop frames (depending on the direction of the conversion); and so I can sort of understand why such "tampering" might have knock on effects on image jitter or audio sync.

Now, the above applies to the North American NTSC / Region 1 market where 1080/60 is the norm. On the other hand, in the European PAL / Region 2 market 1080/50 is the norm. And I think that conversion between 1080/50 and 1080/24 does not use pulldown to add or drop frames, but instead just plays the stream a little bit faster or slower (depending on the direction of the conversion). i.e it uses a different way of "tampering" with the stream.

So my question is whether darthkringle's recommendation would be relevent to the dash-EU versions of the Oppo players? I think there is a setting where you can choose if the player shall output in PAL / NTSC / Auto, which presumably forces 1080/50 / 1080/60 / or who knows what; can anyone please comment on this?
post #7604 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthkringle View Post

Alright- I realize by my number of posts to AVS forum I may not be taken seriously, but I am a shameless lurker who has read the entire thread along with every thread related to every product I have owned in the last 7 years. (Yet, I am still modest I promise). To my EYES, here is what I see:

HDMI1 at sharpness 0 and 1080p Enabled looks a bit soft but also has a very "organic" or pleasing look to it but there is NO DOUBT to "My Eyes" that the image is softer than it should be. It is clear in hair strands, facial closeups, whites of eyes etc.
HDMI 1 at sharpness +1 certainly makes the "clarity" seem better but motion is not as natural and it causes a bit of eye tatigue with extended viewing. I always found that with sharpness +1 I'd say "Yeah, that looks awesome", then after 5 minutes of real viewing I found it distracting and harder to focus on. So back to sharpness at 0.

Then I went down the popular HDMI2 route. Crystal Clear and no eye fatigue!!! YEAH!!!! Right?? My experience there was that the image looked a bit flat and not very involving. I also saw what I thought were some color issues that may or may not have been my imagination based on finding the image more flat looking.

My hopes and dreams were for a compromise that either gave us HDMI with sharpness of 0.5, OR something that blended the clarity of HDMI2 with the natural presence of HDMI1 without the softening/noise reduction.

Now, after reading the post above, after 2 days of constant viewing through Cable box HDMI input, VUDU, Netflix, and BD titles, I can say that the reccomendation to turn OFF 1080p/24 appears to meet the criteria of the sweet spot. Clarity is improved, the image is not as "flat" as HDMI2, but not quite as "3D" looking as HDMI1 default; I also note that lip sync is better across the board.


Hope trying this helps others. For reference here is my video setup;


Oppo HDMI1 w/1080p/24 turned OFF
Output to 1080p
HDMI YCB444
Deep Color Off

HDMI1 direct to Panasonic 58VT25
HDMI 2 now audio only to Arcam AVR600

Quote:
Originally Posted by skoor View Post

Thanks. Your experience on HdMI1 and 2 match almost exactly my experience. I was using a VT50. I don't think this issue is going to change in the 103/105 product line, since it seems to be processor related and not something that can be address by a new firmware setting or so it seems. Oppo silence on this is not encouraging. I think their hands are tied and just don't have any options to offer us.

I returned my unit, but surprising to me, a lot of folks seems to be pleased with the unit. But then, I valued PQ over file handling.


I asked Oppo about this...here's their reply
>>>
Quote:
The ability to disable Noise Reduction completely from HDMI 1 is something that we are investigating, but it is not something that is planned for any in development firmware as Noise Reduction has always been enabled on the HDMI 1 output of our BDP-9x and BDP-10x series of players.

If you do not want any Noise Reduction, then use HDMI 2 instead of HDMI 1.


This is disappointing. I've been thinking about ordering the Oppo BDP-103 since it seemed like a great solution for a multi zone player. I'm not interested in any kind of video processing. All I want is an accurate representation of the actual Blu-ray master...no additional contrast...no additional saturation...no additional sharpness...no default noise reduction. I've been reading a number of reports that HDMI1 is too soft due to noise reduction and that HDMI2 has issues too. After this research I'm not really sure which way to go.
post #7605 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewFG View Post

So my question is whether darthkringle's recommendation would be relevent to the dash-EU versions of the Oppo players? I think there is a setting where you can choose if the player shall output in PAL / NTSC / Auto, which presumably forces 1080/50 / 1080/60 / or who knows what; can anyone please comment on this?

Usually "film"content i.e. DVD produced for PAL markets is sped up during the telecine process during production i.e. 24 to 25 frames (50 fields) and the audio adjusted accordingly. This is different to attempting frame rate conversion of 23.976 Blu-ray source in the player to 50hz output which is likely to result in nasty FRC artefacts. There is some 50hz Blu-ray film content but the vast majority of main features are 24p (23.976Hz) irrespective of region. SD trailers etc around the main feature may vary by region.

If you don't want to use "24p" (typically 23.876Hz) output then "60Hz" (typically 59.94Hz) with pull down would be more appropriate for 24p film source. The downside is noticeable motion stutter due to the unequal frame repeat cycle especially if you're not conditioned to watching film at "60hz" using pull down i.e. those conditioned to watching film created for PAL that uses an equal frame repeat cycle like 24p.

The most appropriate TV system setting on the Oppo is auto (multi) to avoid unnecessary FRC of content that uses different frame rates. If you don't want to use 24p for 24p Blu-ray content turn it off and it should be output at 60Hz(59.94Hz) with TV system in auto whilst PAL DVD or native 50hz HD content should be output correctly at 50hz.
Edited by dazzerxxx - 4/10/13 at 11:31am
post #7606 of 16385
I have a few questions..
Why are the number of channels available so limited compared to say Roku or even my Sony BDP-S570
Can we expect with future upgrades, more channels being added to the line-up
I wish with all the features Oppo offers on this player, they can add a more Comprehensive set of Internet Streaming channels instead of just a handful

I already own a BDP-105 but contemplating buying a BDP-103 to install in my bedroom where I have a projector setup.
I rented a movie recently and the Sony wouldn't play it, where as the 105 player it smoothly giving me the reason to replace the Sony with the 103. I also have a Peachtree Nova in my bedroom that would benefit from superior analog out from the 103 I think.
post #7607 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by rman66 View Post

I have a few questions..
Why are the number of channels available so limited compared to say Roku or even my Sony BDP-S570
Can we expect with future upgrades, more channels being added to the line-up
I wish with all the features Oppo offers on this player, they can add a more Comprehensive set of Internet Streaming channels instead of just a handful

I already own a BDP-105 but contemplating buying a BDP-103 to install in my bedroom where I have a projector setup.
I rented a movie recently and the Sony wouldn't play it, where as the 105 player it smoothly giving me the reason to replace the Sony with the 103. I also have a Peachtree Nova in my bedroom that would benefit from superior analog out from the 103 I think.

OPPO is always pursuing new network deals, but...

...that's what the Roky Streaming Stick is for. It plugs into the front of the player and gives you everything Roku provides.

-Bill
post #7608 of 16385
Oppo HDMI1 w/1080p/24 turned OFF
Output to 1080p
HDMI YCB444 ? is this really necessary
Deep Color Off
HDMI Audio Bitstream gets rid of that weird screech sound that happens intermediate
post #7609 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzerxxx View Post

Usually "film"content i.e. DVD produced for PAL markets is sped up during the telecine process during production i.e. 24 to 25 frames (50 fields) and the audio adjusted accordingly. This is different to attempting frame rate conversion of 23.976 Blu-ray source in the player to 50hz output which is likely to result in nasty FRC artefacts. There is some 50hz Blu-ray film content but the vast majority of main features are 24p (23.976Hz) irrespective of region. SD trailers etc around the main feature may vary by region. If you don't want to use "24p" (typically 23.876Hz) output then "60Hz" (typically 59.94Hz) with pull down would be more appropriate for 24p film source.

Thank you for the clear explanation. But it is still unclear to me whether (for Europe) the "sweet spot" alternative to 24p might not be 50Hz rather than 60Hz...
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzerxxx View Post

The downside is noticeable motion stutter due to the unequal frame repeat cycle especially if you're not conditioned to watching film at "60hz" using pull down i.e. those conditioned to watching film created for PAL that uses an equal frame repeat cycle like 24p.

It sounds as though we we must not only adjust our sets, but also adjust our heads. Are we really being "conditioned" (big brother is conditioning you)? Is this really an issue?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dazzerxxx View Post

The most appropriate TV system setting on the Oppo is auto to avoid unnecessary FRC of content that uses different frame rates. If you don't want to use 24p for 24p Blu-ray content turn it off and it should be output at 60Hz(59.94Hz) with TV system in auto whilst PAL DVD or native 50hz HD content should be output correctly at 50hz.

Is it certain that "auto" always means 60Hz? (If so why are there three options 60/50/Auto when two would do?) My Tv (a Sony) is a multi-standard model having auto input selection so it can play both NTSC and PAL. So I am wondering if the player output and the Tv are both saying to each other "I can do everything" then which format are they finally going to agree on? Is it even a deterministic choice, or may they sometimes agree on 50Hz and sometimes agree on 60Hz?
post #7610 of 16385
As stated, my best results after test discs with the VT50 were

1080p/60 out from OPPO. I don't think the vt50 beatsthat set in 60 or 96hz. I also found 444 out on the OPPO and vt50 in pure direct worked best.

As far as HDMI 1 and 2, I have gone back to 1 as well. I've not used sharpness 1 during a full blu yet, but plan soon. As someone trying to find the best settings for my new set, sharpness 1 fundamentally bothers me because I know it added some ringing.
post #7611 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoor View Post

Thanks. Your experience on HdMI1 and 2 match almost exactly my experience. I was using a VT50. I don't think this issue is going to change in the 103/105 product line, since it seems to be processor related and not something that can be address by a new firmware setting or so it seems. Oppo silence on this is not encouraging. I think their hands are tied and just don't have any options to offer us.

I returned my unit, but surprising to me, a lot of folks seems to be pleased with the unit. But then, I valued PQ over file handling.

have you tried using RBG limited with the vt50? I use that settings with my gt25.

Jacob
post #7612 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by EaglePC View Post

HDMI YCB444 ? is this really necessary

Explicit is better than AUTO just in case the display chain is responding in a strange way. YCbCr 4:4:4 is what AUTO is supposed to produce anyway, but why guess?

-Bill
post #7613 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by darthkringle View Post

My hopes and dreams were for a compromise that either gave us HDMI with sharpness of 0.5, OR something that blended the clarity of HDMI2 with the natural presence of HDMI1 without the softening/noise reduction.

Interesting observation, my friend has a 95 and I am using a 103 now. We are split on the Sharpness setting, where he leaves his set to 0 and me to 1. We did agree that if there was a "0.5" setting we would both probably use that exclusively.
post #7614 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeantYnot View Post

Interesting observation, my friend has a 95 and I am using a 103 now. We are split on the Sharpness setting, where he leaves his set to 0 and me to 1. We did agree that if there was a "0.5" setting we would both probably use that exclusively.
Keep in mind that the video processing on the 93/95 and 103/105 is different. On the 93/95, the QDEO chip was used for a lot more than it is on the 103/105. IIRC (and I'm sure Bob or someone else will correct me if I'm wrong...) the 93/95 use the QDEO for scaling and deinterlacing in addition to the additional noise reduction, etc. while the 103/105 use the QDEO only for scaling to 4K (all other scaling is done on the MediaTek chip, which also handles the scaling for HDMI2) and the additional noise reduction, etc. Further, the 103/105 have a new MediaTek SOC which has updated video processing compared to the MediaTek SOC in the 93/95. That may explain why you and your friend prefer different settings (it could also be a matter of user preference).
post #7615 of 16385
That's what OPPO told me as far as what the Marvell does and what the mediate handles.
post #7616 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by globalnomad View Post

  1. Load your playlist into Foobar.
  2. Select all items in the playlist, right-click, select Copy-->...
  3. In the copy dialog, select the "Link" radio button in the first row labeled "Operation type:"
  4. Select the directory you wish to copy the links to under "Destination Folder". I have created a structure like \Playlists\[PlaylistName]
  5. To insure your files stay in the playlist order prefix any naming pattern you choose with %list_index%. For example, to name my links by [Playlist Position]. [Artist] - [Title] (e.g. "01. Billy Joel - Piano Man"). I would use the following naming pattern: %list_index%. %artist% - %title%
  6. Click Run.

Thanks for this -- very useful!

Two small corrections FWIW:

1. Step 2 should be:
[*] Select all items in the playlist, right-click, select File Operations->Copy to...

2. Before you click Run, be sure to uncheck the "Copy entire source folder content" checkbox or you will get links to all files in the referenced folders and not just the files on your playlist.

Also, we should caution everyone that this feature is only available for NTFS formatted drives.
Edited by Flave - 4/10/13 at 8:17am
post #7617 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flave View Post


Thanks for this -- very useful!

Two small corrections FWIW:

1. Step 2 should be:
[*] Select all items in the playlist, right-click, select File Operations->Copy to...

2. Before you click Run, be sure to uncheck the "Copy entire source folder content" checkbox or you will get links to all files in the referenced folders and not just the files on your playlist.

Thanks for catching that - I've edited my original post. If you have saved previous Copy operations, the tree would be as I described earlier, so I amended the notes to include both. Thanks for pointing out the checkbox - I unchecked mine long ago and it remembered the settings, so I guess the default is different.

post #7618 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by globalnomad View Post

Thanks for catching that - I've edited my original post. If you have saved previous Copy operations, the tree would be as I described earlier, so I amended the notes to include both. Thanks for pointing out the checkbox - I unchecked mine long ago and it remembered the settings, so I guess the default is different.

Cool, thanks.

Don't know if you saw my edit, but you might also want to point out that this is only available for NTFS drives.

Also, FYI Windows Vista and above has a utility if you want to create links yourself (although your procedure is MUCH easier):

MKLINK /H Link Target

Link specifies the new symbolic link name.
Target specifies the path (relative or absolute) that the new link refers to.

[Edit] I just tried this on my Oppo and it works brilliantly. If I knew where you lived I'd come over and kiss you on the mouth. Well, not really. smile.gif
Edited by Flave - 4/10/13 at 8:36am
post #7619 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by red hazard View Post

OPPO BDP-103 No Audio from HDMI Output 1

I guess the only way to stay in the official BDP-103 thread is to use reply. Anyway, here is my situation:

BDP-103 Output HDMI 1 directly into my older Sharp LC-65D64U HDTV provides only video, no audio. BDP-103 HDMI Output 2 however works correctly and provides both audio & video. The HDTV however works/worked fine with inputs from 1st generation Panasonic and past generation 3D Sony Blu-ray players, Dish Network & Directv STB's, 2 different Roku's, etc. I contacted OPPO support and they had me try several workarounds but none worked except the last one. They finally had me put HDMI output 1 into another HDTV (small Sharp LC-19D45U in my case) and the audio then worked. So now when I contact them, they are sure to say there is nothing wrong with the BDP-103. BTW, TOSLINK works fine into a sound bar with output 1,

Questions:

I plan on buying a new HDTV to replace the LC-65D64U. I was looking at the Panasonic TC-65vt50 but will probably wait for its replacement to come to market and the price to drop toward the end of this year. My concern of course is, will HDMI Output 1 work correctly with the new generation of HDTVs? Is my problem only isolated to the LC-65D4U and perhaps similar HDTV generations? Since I bought the BDP-103 only 5 days ago, as an option I can always return it to amazing.

While I have yet to setup my recently acquired Yamaha RX-V773, I will want to use the speakers in the HDTV for most non-movie programming and leave the V773 off or standby. BTW, as U may know, HDMI Output 1 is the only one that provides the QDEO processing so using # 2 is not an option. Thanks for knowledgeable and experienced responses.

I fixed the no audio with BDP-103 HDMI output 1 by updating the Sharp HDTV LC-65D64U firmware after Googling Sharp firmware and finding one update on the Sharp site. I wasn't even aware that an HDTV this old (2007) could be updated. It required a flash drive formatted to FAT16.
post #7620 of 16385
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

The VT25 is well known for handling 24p poorly. You need to either set the TV to 60Hz or input 60Hz to it. Using 96Hz in the VT25 causes a range of processing issues and some chroma errors that are quite visible.
With my own VT25, I see no difference between setting the TV to 60Hz and setting the player to 60Hz, either is quite good and no chroma errors or other issues. Also good to note that the Oppo does not convert 60Hz input to 24Hz in any case.

Thanks rdgrimes, I have the VT25 as well. Haven't noticed much that I am unhappy with but I'll try your suggestions.

JJ
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