Marantz SR5007 Owner's Thread - Page 5

1. It hasn't yet so good I'll ignore it
2. I had the old receiver for 3 years so it's been a while for me to recall the setup but based on what audio format my HTPC shipped to the AVR I could specify what decoding to perform (stereo 2.1 or upmix to 5.1 etc). With the basic remote and basic GUI of this unit I don't see it getting too technical with that?
3. Pros/Cons of those models?

Another question, I'm finishing up my last year of residency right now (e.g. I should have much better funds in the next couple of months). Should I just buy a receiver irregardless of power output and later just use it as a pre-out to a dedicated amp?

Long term I have some big plans for my home theater but I figured I might as well make it a proper investment (kind of like my Outlaw was overkill for now lol). With that said, I like the feature set of this Marantz.

3. Review post #2 in each of the XX12 and XX13 Owner's threads linked in my sig.

At 95db efficiency, the RD-61s don't require any additional amplification; however, if you will be upgrading to better speakers with a lower impedance in the future, note that only the 33XX and higher Denon models have any pre-outs, while on the Marantz models a full set of 7.2 pre-outs start with the 6006 and 5007.

Gotcha. I'm more than happy with my current setup but when moving into a house (I'm in an apartment now) I'm planning on moving my current speaker set (minus LFM-1 EX) into the bedroom and going with a dedicated theater. With that said, this is probably a good choice receiver for a pre-amp then for a theater down the road? If I were to look up (higher budget) are there other options? I don't mind opening the wallet a little bit if it means a better product long term. Thanks! $849 is a bit high for me but I'd be willing to stretch just a little bit more...

First you need to let go of the idea that you'll absolutely need a dedicated amp (especially with no current speakers in mind that actually need one). Unless you upgrade to speakers that are particularly hard to drive, there's likely no reason you'll need an external amp. Go with what you can afford today and just plan on upgrading if you need to in the future. AVRs are no longer as future proof as they were 10 years ago, rather going a 3-4 years is likely good before newer techology changes things again.

I had very similar issues with an sr5006. I took it in and had the ram flashed with the latest software and it seemed to help, for a while. So I took it back to the dealer (Sound World in Appleton, WI) and they replaced it with an SR5007 before they even had a commitment from Marantz to warranty the product. I was impressed.

Now, I'm on this forum looking for a solution for an issue with this one. I started getting network drop out, so I did a hard re-boot and I'm still having problems. I've reset the router, changed cat 5 cables, changed ports, and there is no issues with anything else on the network. It plays for a while, drops out, then comes back on and plays.I'm streaming from a media server (media money and trying foobar) on a laptop and once it drops, I can't ping the unit. So it's gone.

I have to say that I'm really impressed with my dealer, but my luck with Marantz products has not been so good. Safe to say, they aren't welcome in my home any more. My advice would be to find something else.

Good luck.

All good points and will take into consideration.

So far, 48hrs in I'm really digging this receiver! I'm still gonna check out what's looming with Black Friday and Cyber Monday.


Anyways, silly question...when running Audyssey and it sets your speakers I get something like this FL -9.0 C -11.0 FR -.8.5 SL -5.0 SR -5.5 SW -6.0. The closest one to 0 is the SL speaker at -5.0. I basically moved all the speakers up 5dB to FL -4.0, C -6.0, etc etc etc to zero it out. Is it trying to calibrate 0.0dB volume level as reference and that's why or is there some other reason?

The speakers/sub are being calibrated to a 75db test tone and apparently your speakers are VERY efficient (Klipsch?) and therefore they must be attenuated to the negative levels to match that 75db test tone. Leave them at those settings as raising them all individually is no different than simply raising the master volume that same amount.

You should have tried a different brand of router before giving up on the AVR.

yeah Klipsch (RB-61/RC-52) for the front setup. Rears are Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800. Sub always loves going to -12dB on my old and new setup have to trim it down (Outlaw LFM-1 EX). Anyways, did some more fine tuning and I'm really liking this AV unit. I don't know if it's placebo but the DAC in this really seems to make music sing in 2 channel listening.

I am evaluating moving to the Marantz SR5007 from my older Harman Kardon setup (which is old enough that it doesn't have HDMI).

I have a question that I was hoping one of you owners could answer for me. In my current setup, I have many things connected twice (once to the TV, and once to the AV receiver). This way, you can watch the TV with the TV speakers, or you can play a video game with just the TV speakers, or you could pump them through the 5.1 system if you wanted to. Choosing a selection is easy as I use a Logitech Harmony One remote control. So I have 1 button that says (TV only) and another button that says (TV-surround sound). Same goes for my 360, I have 2 buttons, 1 is (xbox360-tv_only) and 1 is xbox360-5.1)

Here is a quick breakdown
--Cable box going HDMI straight to TV (thus i get sound and video). Cable box connected via Optical cable to HK receiver.
--Xbox360 going via Component video cables to TV as well as red/white audio cable to TV (thus I get sound and video). Xbox360 also connected via Optical cable to HK receiver
--PS3 going HDMI straight to TV (thus I get sound and video). PS3 also connected via Optical cable to HK receiver.

By moving to the Marantz, I can plug the PS3 and the Cable box into the AVR via HDMI and I can then connect the 1 HDMI output to my TV input. Thus...I can just leave the TV on HDMI1...and not have to flip back and forth between HDMI 1 and HDMI 2.

My question is how the HDMI pass-through in standby works? I know that this device supports that, and i know that I don't have to turn on the AVR in order to get sound to my TV. However, which signal is going to pass through to the TV? The cable box....the PS3......? Sometimes my wife is going to want to just watch TV and won't want the AVR on. Also, my kids might want to fire up the PS3 and watch Netflix also without using the AVR. Technically both will be connected to the same HDMI input on the TV....so, how does the receiver know which one to pass sound from???????? The PS3 gets turned on and off during the day....but the cable box is always on more or less.

My gut says that 1 of the inputs (say the HDMI for the cable box) will get specified as the pass-through device and it will always be passing audio from that 1 source unless the AVR is actually turned on and a specific input is selected. If it could pass audio from whichever input is actively pushing out sound, I guess I could just reprogram my functions to turn off the Cable Box when any other input is chosen.

Thanks in advance...I look forward to this upgrade.

Your "gut" is correct .... the Standby Source setting is set to a specific HDMI source. However, many cable/sat boxes cause HDMI handshake issues with AVRs (as they are not designed to be connected to an HDMI repeater), therefore, you'll want to keep your current cable box configuration (ie. HDMI to TV with optical to AVR) which then allows you to set the Standby Source to another device (eg. PS3).

Thank you very much sir, always friendly helpful people in these parts. What you explained about using the optical makes sense.

This all came up because the kids will be getting a Wii-U and this connects via HDMI. Unfortunately, my current TV only has 2 HDMI ports in the back and I don't want a cable permanently hanging out of the front of my TV. And since I already watch BluRay and don't get the full sound that I should from it due to my older receiver, I figured it was time to make a change.

My plan was always to get a Denon reciver, but I really just love the minimalistic look of the Marantz and have decided to go this route instead. It will take a little effort on the Logitech remote to get it all reprogrammed, but I think in the end it will very much be worth it.

when I use the headphone jack (which by the way to my ears is pretty good compared to my AMP/DAC) I notice a small annoyance. If you adjust the volume quickly on a track that's not too loud you can hear clicking until you stop adjusting the volume. It immediately stops once you let go of the volume up or down button...any ideas?

Hey guys, I just bought a SR5007 and I'm loving it.
Just got a quick question though, when I am using airplay to play music the artist, track and album art is displayed, which is great, but after around 30 seconds the screen goes blank until I hit a button on the remote. Is there a way to stop this from happening?

Thanks in advance

Yup ... check the "Front Display" setting (p. 130 OM) which defaults to "Auto" (30 sec) but can be changed to "On" (always on).

Sorry I don't think I made it clear.The display on the TV goes blank, not the amp.
I have set the Front Panel to On and it didn't make a difference, thanks for the suggestion though

Change the "Audio Display" setting (p. 115 OM) from 30sec to "Always".

From D&M -

You can use a device like this, to connect a Ethernet device to your WiFi router - http://www.ebuyer.com/257251-edimax-5-port-wireless-n150-extender-access-point-ew-7228apn - this works as a Ethernet Bridge, letting you connect up to five ethernet devices to your router (or more devices, if you attach another ethernet switch or hub to this device)
Edited by MisterL - 12/6/12 at 8:52am

@ Beeman - Thanks for taking the time to post your experiences. Based on your review and continued praise of the SR5007, I pulled the trigger and ordered one to replace my Rotel RSX-1067. (I really enjoy the crisp but warm sound that comes from the Rotel, so I am moving it to my home office for pure music paired with Definitive Mythos Ten.)

I was considering a number of different AVRs, including Onkyo 818's but its reliability made me nervous. The Denon 2313ci was neck and neck but it did not give me the 'warm fuzzies' like the Marantz.

I am looking forward to simplified HDMI connections and using Audyssey to help set up my HT.

A couple of quick questions (for everyone)
1. Do you have a favourite Android app that you would recommend?
2. Any tips before opening the box and setting up?
3. What amp would you recommend to pair with the SR5007?

Thanks.
Edited by sbvballer - 12/11/12 at 9:14am

I just hooked up my Marantz SR5007 with a Panasonic Viera TC-P60ST50. I'm trying to use the Audio Return Channel (ARC) function. It is connected correctly, but the Marantz receiver is not recognized by the Viera Link module. Can anyone help? Shouldn't the ARC work?

Is there anywhere in the settings for this receiver, where one can disable the internal amps ? I am interested in purchasing one, but I will be using external amplification. I thought I read in a review somewhere that it DID have this feature.

THANKS !

Just bought the marantz sr5007 and tannoy speakers mercury v.
Will receive this stuff next week. Now i'm checking how to link to my TV etc.
I have a panasonic tx-p50v10e plasma. Great screen but apparently no ARC function. I have not yet connected the TV with the internet so no updates have ever been done. Is the ACR function a possibility or is it connected to the hardware of the TV and no update of the software can give me ARC?

What is the best way to connect, i have:
The marantz and the above mentioned TV
I have a settop box for TV
I have a PS 3 gameconsole
I have a panasonic blue ray player
And iw ould like to connect with the internet ( my PS3 is wireless connected to my router already )

Thanks for anyone taking the time to response.

Hey Everyone,

Thanks for all the helpful info. about the SR5007. I purchased mine about 3 months ago, and I've enjoyed it for the most part up until now. I've started to notice an issue with my sub and I was wondering if anyone else was experiencing the same issue or could help my debug.

I have a Premier Acoutic PA-150 hooked up to "SW1" and I've noticed that over the past few days, either the signal to the sub has been cutting out, or perhaps something is wrong with the sub. I would be watching a movie and there would be some awesome bass, but just a few minutes later, the sub seems to completely disappear. But, if I remove the connection to the sub and plug it back in, the sound returns to the sub.

Oddly enough, if I don't bother with resetting the connection to the sub, the sound eventually returns to the sub.

I have also noticed that if go into the Marantz setup and play the "test tones" during a sub drop out, either the "test tone" is barely audible from the sub, or non-existent. And, if I reset the connection to the sub by un-plugging and plugging in the cable running to the sub (not power), the sound returns to the sub at full volume.

I've tried the second SW2 output and I get the same issues.

Also during the sub drop out, none of the other speakers seem to be affected.

I tried to reproduce the problem yesterday but I was unable to make the sub drop out. It seems to happen intermittently and the last time it happened, the system was running for more that 5 minutes. I did try and swap in another sub as well but I also couldn't get it to drop out. =(

One other issue I've noticed the PA-150 sub is when I set the sub to "AUTO" power where it should turn on when receiving a signal from the receiver, it doesn't seem to work all the time. I end up having to manually switch it to "On".

I've noticed the issue when playing audio from a XBOX360 and a Panasonic BDP220 blu-ray player.

So, do you guys think it's a problem with the Receiver or the Sub?

Audio Return Channel requires appropriate hardware in your TV. If the TV doesn't have that hardware, you can't use ARC. Many TVs have a digital audio output which you can use instead to connect to your receiver, either optical or coax. You only need an audio connection from the TV to the receiver for devices which are connected only to the TV and not to the receiver.
First try connecting all of your source devices to the receiver. Then connect an HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV for video. Since you use a set-top-box, audio for TV programs come from the set-top-box, not from the TV.

Sometimes it's necessary to connect input devices directly to the TV, like game consoles to minimize lag and cable-tv boxes due to HDMI incompatibilities with receivers. In those cases, the optical audio connection from the TV (instead of from the input devices) sometimes is appropriate.

If at all possible, you should use wired network connections (either ethernet or power-line), not wireless. Many people have problems with intermittent video and firmware updates over wireless because of its poor performance due to interference from radiated electrical noise.

jcshen,

Have you tried using a different cable to connect the sub to the receiver?

One possibility is an intermittent connector, which is being vibrated loose by all that good subwoofer audio.

Selden Ball,

Seems like a logical solution. I'll give a different cable a go tonight. =)

Thanks,

Hello Selden Ball, thanks for the info. For now i do not need an optical back to the receiver then.
I will look into wired internet connection over wireless. Need to get the cable through the wall etc...

Is it still possible to only watch TV and audio through the TV even if the cable bos is connected through the receiver?

Finally, what's a good (best) app for use with the marantz? Just found out that the marantz remote app is not yet for Ipad?

Many people report that power-line networking works quite well. You just need to plug ethernet-to-powerline adapters into power outlets near each device. The two power outlets do need to be on the same power phase, though.
Yes, if the TV and cable connections are strictly HDMI. (It's called "passthrough mode".) The receiver has to be on if other types of connections are used.
Sorry: I can't help with that.

Hi, Does anyone know if Marantz X007 are compatible with 720P/120hz from a PC to a videoprojector (like HD67n) , or in other words compatible with Nvidia 3d Vision

Thanks