Marantz SR5007 Owner's Thread - Page 2

Anybody know if it is possible to listen to Pandora or stream from a computer and watch TV at the same time? I wanted to look at the Yankee/Orioles game and listen to music.

With a non-HDMI audio source selected, connect a component video cable from the cable/sat box to the AVR and use the "Video Source" setting (p. 119 OM) to select the component video source input.

Has the unit been completely idle for 30 minutes with no operation having (or being) performed?

Are you sure the network source has been stopped or did you just select another source after the network source? Try doing a soft reset, power off the AVR and then unplug it for 10 minutes or so and see if that resolves the issue. Otherwise, until another 5007 owner can chime in with their own results, you may want to consider resetting the microprocessor (p. 154 OM) after doing a SAVE of your config file using Web Control (pp. 93-94).

Try a Netgear 85Mbps Powerline Network Adapter Kit - XETB1001. I too have my modem on the second floor and my receiver (Marantz 6007) on the main floor. They work like a charm; just be sure to follow the instructions for installation (e.g. don't plug them into a power strip).

Thanks ajheuer23 - this is an interesting gadget

Also was doing some research and found this product: Amped Wireless SR150 High Power Wireless-N Smart Repeater [http://www.amazon.com/Amped-Wireless-Wireless-N-Repeater-SR150/dp/B004NBN5UY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1350163364&sr=1-1&keywords=amped+wireless+sr150+high+power+wireless-n+smart+repeater]

Has anyone used this or any similar product?

I think I fried the HDMI board on my Onkyo tx-nr3007 because i had it mounted in a AV cabinet and did not think about heat issues. I had it mounted on a shelf in the room and had no problems for well over a year. I bought a cabinet and it died in 3 months. Never had a thermal shutdown. Although I have read about many, many HDMI failures with Onkyo receivers I don't think I did it any favors. I bought the Marantz and installed a temp monitor and some fans. Before the fans the top of the Marantz would get up to 117 degrees or so. Now that I mounted some fans it stays a few degrees above room temp. I have a PS3 slim mounted in the same cabinet and that baby puts out some heat. Something to think about.

Thanks for the help jdsmoothie, I will try that.

I was going to suggest a similar product to the one you found (sorry for the delay in reply - been struggling with my own SR5007 this weekend!): Netgear WN3000RP. I haven't used one of these, nor have I used ethernet-over-power solutions, but I do use a lot of Netgear equipment and I find it very reliable as a brand.

Depending on how much you're going to use the wireless (i.e. just for firmware updates, or iOS/Android control apps, or wireless streaming), wireless and EoP may or may not give you the bandwidth you need. If it was me, and my router was 802.11n (wireless-N) then I'd try a wireless range extender like the one above just because I've heard a few stories about running EoP (interference from washing machines and other heavy-draw whiteware), but it does come down to your house setup. Perhaps check the wireless coverage where your amp is and try streaming on a laptop from there?

If the network source isn't actually turned OFF, it could still be streaming even though you don't have the network source selected. Try unplugging the ethernet cable from the back of the AVR and see if that enables the AVR to shut down.

Try cycling the AUTO STANDBY setting to OFF then to 60 min.

Did any of you guys compare this receiver to the Onkio 818? I was looking at that unit but know it is having software issues with the HDMI port (video) and I believe a USB issue also.. anyway, aside from that, how does this or the 6007 compare? Thanks!

I compared the Marantz, SR5007 to Denon units as opposed to Onkyo units. FWIW, the TX-NR818 is a comparison to the SR6007 as opposed to the SR5007. What are you looking at in the TX-NR818 that you are comparing to the SR6007?

In your shopping efforts, what are you looking for in an AVR?

first thank for your time. I'm looking to replace a capable but dated Sony ES series receiver.. I would say 60-70% movies / HT and the rest music split between muti-channel dvd's and 2 channel such as CD's and Pandora/sirius. I know the Onkio 818 has the Audissey XT32 for room correction (which my room will need for sure).. but I don't know how big a difference that is than the regular xt the 6007/5007 have. The only reason I was comparing the 818 to the 5007 is Amazon had them for about the same price whereas now the 818 is back to over 1k.

Also I like the looks of the Marantz better also and I'm looking at the 5007 as opposed to the 6007 because I may pre-amp it later as my next (soon) house will have more of a dedicated home theater.. I'd wait for the new house however the Center Channel on my current receiver has an intermittent problem. Thanks for your time.

Check out the Denon 4311Ci for Audyssey, MultEQ XT32. It's about $1,600.00 and has about 125w, five channels driven and 140w, two channels driven. I like the SR5007 because it fit our budget, has MultEQ XT, attractive front plate styling and with it's 89w, five channels driven, has more than enough giddy-up to drive our set of Klipsch, horn loaded speakers to THX, reference, sound levels with all the current CODEC's and Apple options.

In response to your question regarding; does XT32 make a difference? According to the many here who are many times more knowledgeable than I, they say hands down, yes, XT32 makes a world of difference over MultEQ XT and is well worth the extra price one must pay to get XT32.

When we have the spare dollars, like you suggest, yes, we'll upgrade the Amp section to an outboard Amp in the form of an Emotiva, XPA-5. Overall, for our purpose, the SR5007 has become the quintessential AVR that's like a Swiss Army knife which does everything well.

This Crutchfield link pretty much tells you all that's in this Swiss Army knife of an AVR.

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Edited by BeeMan458 - 10/15/12 at 7:49pm

Hi all, I'm wondering if anyone can assist with some queries about the Marantz SR5007.

I had decided on the Marantz SR5007 and after reading BeeMan's excellent review (thank you!) I was comfortable that it seemed to be a good unit. I've been a loyal Marantz purchaser for over a decade now (owned 4 units in that time, keeping them up-to-date every 2-3 years), as I love the warm sound and quality components.

So I was in the process of selling my trusty SR7002 as while it had sensational sound it lacked a few features. I wanted to get a new unit that: a) could connect to the network for streaming and remote control from an iPad, b) had HDMI pass-through so I could turn my amp off and still have my AV sources go through to the TV, and c) would be firmware upgradable by me to receive new features. The SR5007 seemed to tick all those boxes.

Unfortunately, while the Audyssey setup was very impressive, almost immediately after that my frustration with it has grown. It simply does not seem to be designed for use with a HTPC (home theatre PC), which I find odd given it seems to know all about DLNA, streaming, LANs, Media Servers, heck it even has a button for "Media Player".

Specifically (and all these are still true after updating the firmware to the latest it could find):
1.) No audio passthrough when in standby. My HTPC source is an nVidia GT520, going to a Samsung C6900 TV. Interestingly, an Xbox 360 will pass through both audio and video fine, but I can only get video from the nVidia. I check Control Panel on the PC and there is no audio device listed, not the amp or the TV, so perhaps this is why, in which case how is the Xbox 360's sound getting through? When transitioning between the on/standby states it seems to tell the HTPC to change screen modes, as any open windows get shrunk to 640x480 size at top-left of the screen, too.
2.) Constant 'mode changes' when watching recorded TV in Windows Media Centre (WMC7). When using the remote to skip forwards/backwards by 30s, the TV keeps displaying the '1920x1080, HDMI' message, indicating it has just been told to change sources or resolutions. It doesn't do this if skipping when the TV is connected directly to the PC, so why is the Marantz continuously dropping the signal?
3.) Occasional black-screens when watching recorded TV. Every so often there will be a second or so of black-screen when watching recorded TV, possibly due to errors in the recording (DVB-T, HD). When watching it normally, there can be a freeze of the picture and the audio will jitter, but the Marantz now causes complete picture dropout and then it tries to re-lock to the signal. Possibly related to #2 above, it seems to be very slow at acquiring signal lock on HDMI sources.
4.) Glitchy UI. As a UI designer myself, this is an annoyance. In an HD world, especially when this unit is advertised as capable of supporting 4K HD, why design the UI overlay for 1280x768? This does cause issues with some of the HDMI menu options (especially annoying when I was trying to troubleshoot the other issues). Plus there is frequently 2 different volume overlays showing simultaneously, one over the top of each other, and both showing different things: one appears to be 2 numbers higher than the other (or 4 steps, since it changes in 0.5 increments). This also occurs when using the iPad app: the volume shown on the iPad app doesn't match what the onscreen UI says. Speaking of iPad app, there isn't one, only an iPhone app (iPads have been around for 2.5 years, Marantz).

So my summary, the sound (what very little I've heard from it) is great. But for me, this is simply feeling very rushed-to-market and not fully tested with the 'digital' landscape.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the above? Am I expecting too much? Is anyone running a similar setup (HTPC, nVidia graphics over HDMI, WMC7) and finding it works great? I really would love to keep it, but at the moment I'm leaning towards returning it as it just feels too half-baked for me, and I don't know whether a firmware patch can resolve some of these in the time before my consumer right-of-return runs out. I've got my SR7002 that I'll repeat the above on tomorrow night and see how it goes, I just wanted to see if my experiences were unique since no-one else seems to be having any major issues.

CJ
Edited by CJbravo - 10/16/12 at 1:42am

I'm helping out a friend to pick one up, 5006 sells for 849. and I can have one for 600., 5007 maybe for 800., what's the major upgrades for 5006 to 5007?
He'll be running psb Alpha B1 5.1


iPhone 4S by Tapatalk

The 5007 features a full set of pre-outs vice only FL/FR, upscales and passes through 4k, and also now features gapless ALAC/FLAC and Spotify (both via firmware update). Other than that, no real difference. As there's only a $50 difference in MSRP between the two models, if you can get the 5006 for $200 less, the 5006 is likely the better buy if the additional features on the 5007 are not required.

Wow! Sounds frustratingly terrible. By connecting directly into the TV's HDMI "in" port for video and using the SR5007 solely for audio decoding (no pass through needed) and amplification, we're not experiencing any of your complications. What happens when you tie directing into the TV's HDMI "in" connection?

Our setup?

The unit has not been connected to the internet and the firmware has not received any upgraded firmware. So we're using the firmware installed at the time of manufacture and testing before going into the packing box.

The cable box is connected to the television via a HDMI cable and the cable box audio is connected to the SR5007 via the Toslink option with a reassignment of internal AVR switching to accommodate the Toslink connection. This allows for use of the television speakers when the AVR is off (which the wife loves) and allows for the speakers to be used when the AVR is turned on. The AVR loves that.

The Blu-ray player is connected to the SR5007 via a HDMI cable for High-Def video playback.

Additionally, the AVR is connected to the television using a HDMI cable so as to be able to see the AVR's onscreen GUI. Doing this, we have direct video to the television and a connection so the AVR's GUI can be seen when the television's HDMI input is switched to HDMI port 2. And yes, affecting the additional manual switching does make for a slight technological inconvenience.

Set up in this fashion, none of what you describe is happening on our end of this conversation. In the short, color us happy, happy, hap-i campers.

Just a thought, what grade HDMI cable are you using? Did you upgrade your HDMI cables when you connected the SR5007? Currently the SR5007 is setup for HDMI 1.4a specs. If one is not using a "High Speed" HDMI cable, there can be all sorts of dropout problems as not enough information is being passed to the AVR. As a designer, I know you're onto this but if going from the SR7002 to the SR5007, one forgets to upgrade their HDMI cables, this sort of problem can rear it's ugly head.

Hope my above helps with your lament as so far, we've not had a lick of trouble and for our purposes, the SR5007 has performed flawlessly.

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Edited by BeeMan458 - 10/16/12 at 7:18am

There is no reason to "upgrade" cables if the cable is already "High Speed" (1080p) rated regardless of whether it's HDMI 1.3 or HDMI 1.4 (which is why cables can no longer be labeled as HDMI 1.3 or HDMI 1.4).

"If one is not using a HD HDMI cable,....."

All HDMI cables are "HD", either "Standard Speed" (720p/1080i) or "High Speed" (1080p).

Noted. Correction of misnomer made.

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Edited by BeeMan458 - 10/16/12 at 7:22am

Cheers for the feedback, guys.

And thanks for the detailed explanation of your setup BeeMan. That has actually helped spark the beginnings of a lightbulb moment as to why our experiences have differed so widely with the Marantz SR5007; would it be fair to say that you're not using any of the 'V' part of this 'A/V switching amp', and instead you have multiple (I count 3) HDMI cables going into your TV, which you use for video switching? And if so, then your amp is only being used as a pure audio amp (with the notable exception of your Blu-ray player)?

If all the above are "yup" then that certainly explains it: you're not experiencing any of the problems that I am because your amp isn't doing any video switching. Which is great for you, don't get me wrong!

May I ask if there's any reason you don't connect the video from your cable box to the amp, and then just have a total of 1 HDMI cable going into the TV (it would be from the amp) and then you'd be using the amp as an A/V switcher? You can set the HDMI passthrough on the amp (it's in the Video settings) to always pass through the cable box signal when the amp is in standby, then you can use the TV audio as you do now. This setup would then approximate mine (with the big exception of my using a PC as my main television signal provider). I'd be interested in seeing if you get any of the passthrough/channel-skipping/time-shifting issues then, though this isn't a 100% test due to a PC clearly being handled so differently by the SR5007.

Yes my cables are at least 1.3a, maybe 1.3b, perhaps 1.4, I can't remember what they were when I got them (and JD feels it doesn't matter, which is great). They'd only be a year old, max, so I'm thinking they were advertised as 1.4.

Does anyone have a Marantz SR5007, SR6007 or SR7007 working successfully (or otherwise) in an HTPC setup?

@BeeMan.. thank you for the reply.

@CJbravo -

1. Try setting the HTPC to PCM 2.0 to allow the audio to pass through in Standby.
2. Set the HTPC to a single static resolution (ie. Native set to OFF).
3. Although written for Denon models, helpful info for Marantz as well --> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1334369/the-official-denon-avr-xx12-model-owners-thread/0_100#user_L12
4. Dual volume overlays are generally the result of having the HDMI-CEC feature on the TV set to ON so disable it (Samsung - Anynet+, Panasonic - VIerraLink, Sony - BraviaSync, LG - SimpLink, etc.).