Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 39

Yes!!!!! I will be purchasing in 2 weeks from now!

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Has anyone received their rebate yet? I mailed mine in late November and nothing.

Finally recieved my Panasonic 3D glasses and i will report what others have reported. Theres a lot of ghost/crosstalk in 3D mode.In the avatar the bacground is often blury becuase of the cross talk. On PS3 Motor storm rift, its not satisfying to race in 3D Mode because the details in the background and trakside middle distance objects are corstalked.

For 2D gaming its very good. As far as i can see lag free and very smooth. But in 3D mode theres too much crosstalk and the lag feels like 100ms. So super star dust HD is not very playable Normally on the sony HMZ-T1 i can get 40,000,000 points and lag free. On the Panasonic i can only get 10,000,000 points consiatantly.

Maybe someone can chime in on how to fix the crosstalk.

Realize that this projector is more like a Ferrari F12berlinetta than a Honda Civic. To get the most out of it, the operator has to read up on the purpose and proper operation of its controls and know something about high-performance driving, as opposed to dropping it into DRIVE and heading off to the grocery store.

When it comes to optimizing this projector for 3D...a lot of info has already been posted in this thread and I would recommend that you avail yourself of it as soon as possible. Last weekend I watched Avatar for the first time in 3D and I saw zero crosstalk throughout the entire movie.

You didn't list any basic details about how you have the projector set up currently, screen size and gain, or even what Lamp power level you are using for 3D.

When I get a new display of any kind, I don't turn it on and instantly judge the picture quality with whatever settings and modes it has from the factory. The first thing I do is figure out which picture mode is the most accurate (talking 2D here), then at a minimum I properly adjust the Brightness (video black level) and Contrast (peak white level). For 3D, the goal of course is to obtain higher brightness even at the expense of color accuracy. However that does not mean that there's no benefit to properly setting the Brightness (video black level) and Contrast (peak white level) even in the more powerful modes like Dynamic.

3D Motion Remaster is a feature that is definitely advisable if you are looking to improve the 3D experience.


Be sure to set Frame Creation to at least Mode 1 in order to enable 3D Motion Remaster.


As far as lag time for gaming, you might want to investigate the Frame Response setting.


The note under Frame Response seems to indicate that progressive input signals take longer to process that interlaced signals, so you might want to change your console settings to output an interlaced signal.

3D Mapper, the 3D on my end looks great. Because of my job, I have viewed 3D on a handful of different 47" and 50" TVs and, to compare, I prefer viewing 3D on this projector because the size of the 3D image makes a huge difference with depth and pop out effects. On regular TVs, I still see a little bit of crosstalk every now and then, and with the Panasonic AE8000, the amount of crosstalk is similar (a little bit every now and then; but dark text over light backgrounds is a different story though).

I think there might be something wrong with your setup if crosstalk is really bad. But comparing crosstalk to this projector with the Sony HMZ-T1 is sort of unfair since the HMZ-T1 will have zero crosstalk in comparison to both TVs and projectors.

Did you see my post regarding focus? Make sure your projector is in focus. Also, make sure you're not utilizing the "2D to 3D" option (some people don't realize they also need a 3D capable 1.4 A/V receiver, and resorted to "2D to 3D" option when 3D didn't automatically work). Also, for me, I've been using Oppo 103 and PS3 which do better in terms of crosstalk than Panasonic DMP-BDT220. I have my settings set to either Dynamic or Cinema 2 which are the brightest settings. My projector is ceiling mounted and I got it as parallel to the screen as possible to avoid any awkward image warping, but I did end up using some keystone; I'm not sure if that's a factor in your case. Also, I would check your projector's convergence (http://www.pbase.com/jackcnd/convergence), just in case. I can imagine that poor convergence would affect the 3D performance. Also, I'm projecting on a Brilliant White 119" Carada screen, if that helps

So I experienced something just now for the first time on this projector, and it's not a good thing.

I was playing my Xbox 360 and was playing some Forza Horizon when the screen went black for a second. The sound was still coming out of my speakers so the AVR was still getting signal from the 360. It came back on like a second later and I was like wtf so I paused it and got up, like if someone was messing around with me. Then like 4-5 more times, the screen went off then back on, like a second or so off then back on. It happened like every 5-8 seconds or so, then stopped.

I started playing again and then the screen went black again for a second then back on. It happened only 1 more time after that. I continued to play for like 15 more minutes and had my camera ready to take a video if it happened again but it didn't.

Has anyone seen this happen? Is this the dreaded "flicker" problem from the 7000 that I had heard about?

On another note, today is the first day I had my projector hooked up with the serial cable to a GC-100 device, and I'm now controlling it with Roomie Remote. Could that have anything to do with it?

I probably have like 150 hours on the projector if that is any info that would help. I can check the exact hours tomorrow.

This blows happening the day before the Super Bowl...

I don't have this projector yet (coming Monday) but this is not the flicker issue. Flicker you do not lose the image.

Is the projector connected to the AVR or the XBOX?

This sounds more like a sync problem where the projector is losing the signal from the AVR (assuming the PJ is connected to the AVR for video?). Make sure the cables are in all the way and that one didn't loosen while you were messing with the cables.

Sounds like a flaky HDMI cable.

For sure a problem with your HDMI cable. If you use a CAT 5 Extender between your HDMI cables, make sure your CAT 5 cables are shieled (STP). I had the same problem bugging me and you can find lots about this same problem all over the internet. Your hdmi cable maybe too long while running near higher voltage wires or some wireless signal interferes with your cable. I use a CAT 5 extender with 2 x 20mtr cables in between and the problem was very bad but after swapping the cables to STP I haven't seen it since. Nothing wrong with your projector!

Interesting. This is the first time this has ever happened before. And I was playing for about 3 hours prior to this happening and it had not happened before.

Also to be fair, I hadn't used my Xbox 360 extensively on this setup until Friday night. Prior to that it was more my PS3 than anything.

Maybe it is the HDMI cable between my 360 and my AVR? The cable between my AVR and 8000 is in the wall, and I DID run a spare in the wall as well in case something went bad with it. Although it is the same brand cable, a 25" Blue Ribbon HDMI cable.

I'll see if I get anymore of this though and see how it goes.

So after a few days with this new beast, I've come to two conclusions.

It's better than my PLV-Z700 for contrast and brightness. Color and overall picture quality is very close, haven't calibrated yet though.

It's not worth twice the price of that old projector.

I say the second point for one simple reason, no automatic lens cover. I really didn't think it would matter that much but having to take off and put that damn thing on every time I use the projector is going to drive me mad! The worst part is that ever time I touch the projector, it bumps it just slightly out of alignment on the ceiling mount and i have to re-tweak it to get it lined up perfectly with the screen again.

I haven't tried 3D yet, I sure hope that works at least as well as my v30.

Likely. I read somewhere this concise summary of how to go about troubleshooting a problem that "suddenly" appears:

Ask Yourself
1. When did it last work properly?
2. When did it stop working properly?
3. What was done in between those times?

Do you really need to put on the lens cover? My projector is sitting on a rear shelf and I never cover the lens. If it gets dusty, I clean it harmlessly with a photographer's lens pen. I pulled the little plastic lanyard out of the case and put the cover away in a safe place.

If you just decide to leave the cover off, you will have no reason to touch the mount and thus throw off the alignment. Should result in lower blood pressure levels...

Is it ok to give the lens a shot of compressed air? I will have to look into this lens pen you mentioned.

Absolutely OK. Unfortunately, most compressed gas dusters these days have an anti-huffing "bitterant" added to them..which could leave trace residues on equipment.

This brand of compressed gas duster is the only one I've found recently which does not have the bitterant.

In lieu of compressed gas dusters, Giottos Rocket Air Blaster is pretty good!



There are a lot of good quality lens pens out there...even Amazon is getting into the act!

Yeah I used to put the lens cover on/off as well but haven't done so since I have all my wires in-wall and put the electrical outlet on the ceiling. Not going to bother and it seems many people don't, and it doesn't cause any issues.

I have had a similar issue happen with a device connected to my A/V receiver (with another projector), and it turned out I had accidentally damaged the HDMI port in the device. I also seen another similar issue where it turned out the HDMI cable was damaged.

Glad to hear it's not that big of an issue. I just need to get over my OCD.

Thanks for your replies. I dont mean to upset any owners in this thread. Please understand i am only stating my experience.

A bit of background on myself. I used to work in the games industry working on PC and PS2 games. Unlike a lot of my industry peers, i love stereoscopic gaming.

I own a Samsung 3D C680 TV (lots of crosstalk), and a Sony HMZ-T1 & T2 (zero crosstalk) head mounted 3D display. So i am very experienced with what excellent 3D looks like, and am experienced with setting up hardware correctly to squeeze the best out of what i have. My post here is not to compare or VS any products. I am merely stating truthfully from my experience.

In my search for the perfect 3D projector for 3D Blu Ray, Stereoscopic 3D console gaming. My first purchased the Optoma HD33. Its a great projector for the price and the one i have decided to keep even tho its not perfect. Ive conceded that projectors may not be fast enough for gaming in stereoscopic 3D.

The 3D on the optoma is as far as i can see cross talk/ghosting free 99.9% of the time. Only extremely rarely do you see crosstalk/ghosting and its so minor it does not effect ones enjoyment. When i say crosstalk free, i do mean 99.9 of the time theres no cross talk ghosting at all thanks to its DLP technology.

Inspired by how good it was i went to a showroom and demoed the Epson TW9000. I put on the classes and the first thing i said to the saleman was.... OMG... there's no crosstalk/ghosting! I asked him i thought this was only possible with DLP projectors? He said the Epson is LCD.... and yes no crosstalk. I viewed Despicable Me, Avatar, and played Super Star Dust HD in Stereoscopic 3D. As far as i could see the 3D image in all instances looked as clean as on the Optoma. I was very impressed. But two things bugged me. I was sure the Optoma picture quality is sharper... and i was not convinced the Epson input lag was good enough for gaming.

After my demo i concluded... if the Epson's 3D was cross talk free.... surely the Panasonic would be just as good, if not better. Ive never seen a Panasonic 3D TV in action, but reviews say crosstalk is more or less non existent or extremely low. So surely this ability would translate to their projectors. And this is where i am very disappointed, the Panasonic AE8000/AT6000 has very poor 3D performance for its price. Even my £400 50in Samsung C680 3D TV matches it for crosstalk, the Panasonic is no better than 3 year old 3DTV technology.

I am sure i have the projector set up correctly, ive played around with every setting.

Before i purchased the Panasonic i spent 2 days reading forums reviews. Many people highlighted the crosstalk.ghosting problem. But i assumed they had sensitive eyes or maybe they had a defective unit.... or simply they set up their projector 3D incorrectly as they are inexperienced with 3D features. So i ignored these comments and paid a deposit and got to take the Panasonic home on trail.

In the end i kept the Optoma HD33. In 2D both projectors are great for gaming. The Optoma generally has a sharper gaming image, while the Panasonic has more beautiful colours & its increased contrast ratio result in a more solid image. Their 2D input lag is excellent, the edge i felt goes to the Panasonic as the response felt just that extra bit tighter.

Blu Ray and stereoscopic 3D console gaming the Optoma wins hands down as crosstalk/ghosting is absolutely minimal - zero 99.9% of the time. HOWEVER, for fast paced (Super Star Dust/ FPS Games) games neither are good enough as the input lag in 3D is awful, even in "game mode". I will say, the depth effect was superior with the Panasonic. I think its contrast ratio helps with the sense of depth. But this is completely offset by the horrible crosstalk.

The Panasonic in general has a better image quality, however i stress if you are a 3D lover, 3D gamer.... the Optoma is better because it has far superior crosstalk control.

Please understand i am not her to bash any one product. I want to help those who like myself spend weeks online reading conflicting reviews. IMHO... i dont think projectors can do low input lag stereoscopic 3D console gaming. I hope someone proves me wrong as i really want the perfect gaming projector. Ok maybe the Optoma GT750 can, buts its 720p and i want 1080p.
Edited by 3DMamper - 2/4/13 at 5:16pm

3DMAMPER,

Aren't all games side-by-side 3D? Have you tried watching a 3D bluray and see if you also see ghosting there? I have a D8000 Samsung plasma and I never notice ghosting with bluray's, but SBS 3D has extremely obvious ghosting.

As i said i watched lots of blu rays and some games can do frame packed. At least the ps3 can. Also i am referring to the panasonic AE8000/AT6000 not your Samsung TV!

Also my Samsung TV as i stated is a 3 uear old model. May even be older. It was one of the first generation 3D TVs hence i expected it to have crosstalk. But the panasonic projector is current and almost 3000GBP hence i expected it to be better. Especially becuase the Epson TW8000 was crosstalk free as far as i could see in my demo. And its kn the same price brand.
Edited by 3DMamper - 2/4/13 at 5:08pm

Still waiting on mine as well.. mailed around Dec 13th.

Same here. Mailed end of November/beginning of December and nothing yet.

FYI, you can check here:

http://www.panasonicconsumerrebates.com

The PT-AE8000U is under "Home Entertainment."

Mine just says:

Current Status: Check Payment
Check to be mailed within 8-14 weeks of received date.

Retailer: PROJECTORPEOPLE.COM
Product Model: PT-AE8000U
Date Entered: Wednesday, December 26, 2012
Check Number: 477xxxxxx
Current Dollar Amount: $100.00

I haven't received mine yet and sent rebate in early December. But, I spoke to one of the Panasonic reps last week and they said it takes 6 to 8 weeks for the check and 8 to 10 weeks for the glasses.

I see lots of ghosting with SBS on my D8000 Samsung plasma and I also notice it everywhere with my friends VT50 Panasonic. I´m surprised if you've seen a display that doesn't have ghosting with SBS 3D.

Thanks for sharing this link William. Kind of a bummer that I sent my rebate on Dec 5th and as per the site, they entered until Dec 17th....

On the bright site, at least I know now that it is currently in process.

Cheers!

Hi Keyser. Crosstalk is not due to SBS. It probably just happens to show up more on LCD & LED projectors & 3DTV's.

On my optoma HD33 which uses DLP technology and on my sony HMZ-T1 &T2 theres in zero crosstalk in all 3D formats including SBS. No crosstalk makes 3D gaming amazing and not distracting.

For those with the panasonic projector that dont get crosstalk, then im so happy for you as you are getting to enjoy 3D the way it should be. My post was to warn those who where considering projectors for fast paced 3D gaming, neither projectors are good enough due to high inout lag. But personally for me the optoma was a keeper as it had zero crosstalk.

The input lag on the 8000 is REALLY good. I'm super sensitive to it as I play a lot of fighters, and in Game mode the input lag is virtually gone. It was a major reason I purchased this projector.

Now granted, it wasn't in 3D so that may be different.

[quote name="3DMamper" url="/t/1432437/official-owners-thread-panasonic-pt-ae8000u-us-version-pt-at6000e-european-version/1140#post_22920124"I hope someone proves me wrong as i really want the perfect gaming projector. Ok maybe the Optoma GT750 can, buts its 720p and i want 1080p.[/quote]

Some certain 3D movies, for me with my settings, have more crosstalk than others. I just watched Resident Evil Afterlife and Coraline and saw very very minimal amount of crosstalk, whereas ParaNorman had more crosstalk than Coraline. But it's still minimal in ParaNorman. I did watch Despicable Me a while ago and did see more crosstalk than usual. But I assumed it was b/c of how aggressive 3D was in that feature, coupled with the high contrasting bright colors. Also, I view 3D with 3D glasses set to "light" (vs. "normal" or "dark"). I also don't use the frame creation feature which is supposed to minimize crosstalk.

I haven't tested 3D using a DLP TV or projector. So far, besides the AE8000, I've viewed 3D on LCD Passive TV (LG), LED Active Shutter TV (Sony), and a couple Plasma Active Shutter TVs (Samsung and Panasonic); and all showed very minimal ghosting, but the Passive LCD didn't seem to have any crosstalk whatsoever, perhaps because that Passive TV defaults to over 240hz when in 3D.

According to this article though http://hifi-writer.com/wpblog/?p=3451, as you said with your Optoma DLP projector, DLP and Passive are the best for crosstalk issues. And 3D headsets are crosstalk-free in general. I read somewhere else that 3D gaming will display more crosstalk than 3D movies, just because of the nature of "free-movement" in gaming vs. controlled-framing in movies. I do prefer the sharpness and natural cinematic look of my old 2D DLP projector, but definitely favor the AE8000 for brighter colors and brightness, especially for 3D.

Also, FYI, I read somewhere to wait 15 to 20 minutes for projectors to completely "heat up" when watching 3D, which I think is correct b/c that's when I see the most ghosting (at the start of a movie).