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Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 6

post #151 of 3208
I ordered my 8000 yesterday and should have it by Monday!

I'm pretty excited about hooking it up and seeing how it will look on my wall. I'm in the early stages of my HT setup but you have to start somewhere right?

Since I am unsure about what size screen I want and what is too big for my area, I'm waiting to receive it and just blast the picture on a white wall to find out the size that would be a good fit.
post #152 of 3208
Got mine 10 days ago. This is my first projector ... wow! I'm amazed that my 60in. plasma looks small.

For those who are interested, there is no noticeable lag playing MW2 on my Xbox. I'm a run+gun close range type player and I'm very sensitive to a bad connection or any sort of lag.

I have my PC hooked up to it as well. Gave it a few runs with GW2. Again, there is no noticeable lag.
post #153 of 3208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunnar91 View Post

Got mine 10 days ago. This is my first projector ... wow! I'm amazed that my 60in. plasma looks small.
For those who are interested, there is no noticeable lag playing MW2 on my Xbox. I'm a run+gun close range type player and I'm very sensitive to a bad connection or any sort of lag.
I have my PC hooked up to it as well. Gave it a few runs with GW2. Again, there is no noticeable lag.

I had the same experience as you when I played SSF4 when I demo'd the projector. I'm super sensitive to it, and I couldn't notice it either.

Maybe I'm just getting older though and my reaction time is slower anyways heh.
post #154 of 3208
I have noticed a fair amount of lag while playing Rock Band on the Wii with it. But I have also not calibrated it for the 8000. I also noticed a fair amount of lag from my PC, but that may just be my PC.
post #155 of 3208
Is there an option for fast frame response in the menu - there was on the AE3000 (UK)
post #156 of 3208
Were you in GAME mode?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silock View Post

I have noticed a fair amount of lag while playing Rock Band on the Wii with it. But I have also not calibrated it for the 8000. I also noticed a fair amount of lag from my PC, but that may just be my PC.
post #157 of 3208
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazz monkey jr View Post

Is there an option for fast frame response in the menu - there was on the AE3000 (UK)

yes
post #158 of 3208
Quote:
Originally Posted by NMJack View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazz monkey jr View Post

Is there an option for fast frame response in the menu - there was on the AE3000 (UK)

yes

Fast is the best setting for playing games.
post #159 of 3208
First, let me say that this is not my first post. I could not log in with my old username as the password info was part of my work email, and I don't work there any more so I could not get it.

AE8000 CROSSTALK IS SOOO MUCH BETTER. Sorry for the caps, but it's important. I went through two AE7000s. The first one I received was not properly aligned, so I sent it back to company which sent a replacement. When that one arrived, the image was better (2D looked fine) but crosstalk was horrible. I finally sent it back to Panasonic (took over 4 weeks to get it back) and they replaced a circuit board. It also developed three dust blobs in less than a month which they did not clean even though I reported it. The picture was better but there was just something that wasn't right about it. 2D was great, but 3D for lack of a better word was lifeless (like out of focus). I was hesitant to spend $3,000 on the AE8000 especially since the 7000 was about a year old (I'm not rich). However, let me just say...wow.

Details:

About 166" image thrown on a painted wall (Behr Premium)....sorry guys...but it looks awesome without an expensive screen.
BD player tried was Panasonic 210 and Sony 790. Sony 790 might have a bit of an edge with picture quality.
Panasonic 3rd generation glasses

Movies demoed:
Lion King
Toy Story
Avatar
Adventures of Tin Tin
Legends of the Guardians (Owl movie)
The Avengers

In each and every one, the detail, depth, colors, etc. were so much better. Crosstalk was negligible. Was it gone completely? No, but you can only see in bright background scenes. A good example is in Tin Tin when they are walking in the desert after the plane crash. There is some crosstalk around the bodies of Tin Tin and the captain. However, if that's the worst, I'll take it.

The light output is much improved. I can watch a movie in "Normal" with the glasses set at "medium" and it is perfectly fine. Dynamic, while giving more "pop" makes it looks artificial. I've tried both Eco and Normal light modes. Eco is a bit darker, but again, negligible to affect enjoyment of 3D.

To those on the fence, I'll be one of the first to say that this projector is light years ahead of what I saw on my 7000. I have done no calibration yet, either.

I hope this helps a bit.

Tim
Edited by timclove - 10/27/12 at 11:02am
post #160 of 3208
Quote:
Originally Posted by timclove View Post

First, let me say that this is not my first post. I could not log in with my old username as the password info was part of my work email, and I don't work there any more so I could not get it.
AE8000 CROSSTALK IS SOOO MUCH BETTER. Sorry for the caps, but it's important. I went through two AE7000s. The first one I received was not properly aligned, so I sent it back to company which sent a replacement. When that one arrived, the image was better (2D looked fine) but crosstalk was horrible. I finally sent it back to Panasonic (took over 4 weeks to get it back) and they replaced a circuit board. It also developed three dust blobs in less than a month which they did not clean even though I reported it. The picture was better but there was just something that wasn't right about it. 2D was great, but 3D for lack of a better word was lifeless (like out of focus). I was hesitant to spend $3,000 on the AE8000 especially since the 7000 was about a year old (I'm not rich). However, let me just say...wow.
Details:
About 166" image thrown on a painted wall (Behr Premium)....sorry guys...but it looks awesome without an expensive screen.
BD player tried was Panasonic 210 and Sony 790. Sony 790 might have a bit of an edge with picture quality.
Panasonic 3rd generation glasses
Movies demoed:
Lion King
Avatar
Adventures of Tin Tin
Legends of the Guardians (Owl movie)
The Avengers
In each and every one, the detail, depth, colors, etc. were so much better. Crosstalk was negligible. Was it gone completely? No, but you can only see in bright background scenes. A good example is in Tin Tin when they are walking in the desert after the plane crash. There is some crosstalk around the bodies of Tin Tin and the captain. However, if that's the worst, I'll take it.
The light output is much improved. I can watch a movie in "Normal" with the glasses set at "medium" and it is perfectly fine. Dynamic, while giving more "pop" makes it looks artificial. I've tried both Eco and Normal light modes. Eco is a bit darker, but again, negligible to affect enjoyment of 3D.
To those on the fence, I'll be one of the first to say that this projector is light years ahead of what I saw on my 7000. I have done no calibration yet, either.
I hope this helps a bit.
Tim

What about sharpness in 2d and 3d
post #161 of 3208
Sharpness is great. I've not seen so much detail in any of my prior projectors. I had an AE2000 before I went for the AE7000. The 8000 blows them away. The richness, texture, colors, 3D depth...everthing looks superb. My partner (who is much more susceptible to eye strain/3D issues) was in awe and wants to rewatch all of the 3D movies again. I have not tried a 2D movie on it yet, but I have no doubt that they will look great. I can't say enough good things. So happy I spent the cash. Now what to do with my crappy 7000? It's still under warranty. I wonder if contacting Panasonic again would help? Doubt it, but maybe worth a try.
post #162 of 3208
Has anyone demo'd the new Sony or JVC before buying the panasonic. I am considering all 3 but would like another panasonic as it is out in a few days in the UK
post #163 of 3208
I'm ready to pull the trigger on this, I know we cannot talk price, but please private message me if you are finding it lower than 3k. I'm upgrading from a 4000 also.
post #164 of 3208
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randybw1 View Post

I'm ready to pull the trigger on this, I know we cannot talk price, but please private message me if you are finding it lower than 3k. I'm upgrading from a 4000 also.

A few of us got them from AGI for $2599, but that was apparently a pricing anomaly that lasted about 24 hours. I'm sure if you are able to wait a few months, that price point will again be available. Otherwise, it looks like all the sellers are sticking with the party line right now.
post #165 of 3208
The RRP is £3000 in the UK but one dealer quoted me £2699 ($4350), not sure if we get any glasses yet :-(
post #166 of 3208
projectorreviews guesstimates that the lumens for 3d @ its brightest mode is around 425.any opinions that strongly disagree with these findings? just curious since 425 lumens seems low.
post #167 of 3208
Anyone using darbee with the ae8000? Thoughts?
post #168 of 3208
Quote:
Originally Posted by timclove View Post

First, let me say that this is not my first post. I could not log in with my old username as the password info was part of my work email, and I don't work there any more so I could not get it.
AE8000 CROSSTALK IS SOOO MUCH BETTER. Sorry for the caps, but it's important. I went through two AE7000s. The first one I received was not properly aligned, so I sent it back to company which sent a replacement. When that one arrived, the image was better (2D looked fine) but crosstalk was horrible. I finally sent it back to Panasonic (took over 4 weeks to get it back) and they replaced a circuit board. It also developed three dust blobs in less than a month which they did not clean even though I reported it. The picture was better but there was just something that wasn't right about it. 2D was great, but 3D for lack of a better word was lifeless (like out of focus). I was hesitant to spend $3,000 on the AE8000 especially since the 7000 was about a year old (I'm not rich). However, let me just say...wow.
Details:
About 166" image thrown on a painted wall (Behr Premium)....sorry guys...but it looks awesome without an expensive screen.
BD player tried was Panasonic 210 and Sony 790. Sony 790 might have a bit of an edge with picture quality.
Panasonic 3rd generation glasses
Movies demoed:
Lion King
Toy Story
Avatar
Adventures of Tin Tin
Legends of the Guardians (Owl movie)
The Avengers
In each and every one, the detail, depth, colors, etc. were so much better. Crosstalk was negligible. Was it gone completely? No, but you can only see in bright background scenes. A good example is in Tin Tin when they are walking in the desert after the plane crash. There is some crosstalk around the bodies of Tin Tin and the captain. However, if that's the worst, I'll take it.
The light output is much improved. I can watch a movie in "Normal" with the glasses set at "medium" and it is perfectly fine. Dynamic, while giving more "pop" makes it looks artificial. I've tried both Eco and Normal light modes. Eco is a bit darker, but again, negligible to affect enjoyment of 3D.
To those on the fence, I'll be one of the first to say that this projector is light years ahead of what I saw on my 7000. I have done no calibration yet, either.
I hope this helps a bit.
Tim

Very useful info. My 7000 was unusable in 3D due to crosstalk, so the 8000 is definitely on the cards for me if it's as good as people make out.
post #169 of 3208
Currently using a Sanyo Z2000 and a 80 inch screen, moving to another house were I'm going to make a bat cave and in the market for a new screen and projector.
I'm doing some research about the lens memory on the Panasonic and correct me if wrong but the options you have to use both formats (16/9 and 2:35/1) are:

1.Buy a 2:35/1 screen and use side masking for 16/9 material (you will loose a lot of height [and impact] compared to a 16/9 setup) <-- CIH setup?
2.Buy an auto masking screen (4 way) (no option, very expensive).
3.Buy a Black Diamond screen and the non projected white looks black (no option, very expensive).
4.Buy 2 screens, one fixed (2:35/1) and one electric (16/9) (i think the cheapest solution for retaining the optimal sizes in both display modes)
5.Buy 1 large 16/9 and just watch the 2:35/1 material with black borders (not using lens memory).

Just wondering if a 2:35/1 setup will be worth the effort, haven't seen a demo of it so cannot judge.
I'm currently sitting 8 feet from the 80 inch and thinking about a 131 or 117 inch 16/9 screen from 13,5 feet (so basically not using the lens memory).
post #170 of 3208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash3d View Post

Currently using a Sanyo Z2000 and a 80 inch screen, moving to another house were I'm going to make a bat cave and in the market for a new screen and projector.
I'm doing some research about the lens memory on the Panasonic and correct me if wrong but the options you have to use both formats (16/9 and 2:35/1) are:
1.Buy a 2:35/1 screen and use side masking for 16/9 material (you will loose a lot of height [and impact] compared to a 16/9 setup) <-- CIH setup?
2.Buy an auto masking screen (4 way) (no option, very expensive).
3.Buy a Black Diamond screen and the non projected white looks black (no option, very expensive).
4.Buy 2 screens, one fixed (2:35/1) and one electric (16/9) (i think the cheapest solution for retaining the optimal sizes in both display modes)
5.Buy 1 large 16/9 and just watch the 2:35/1 material with black borders (not using lens memory).
Just wondering if a 2:35/1 setup will be worth the effort, haven't seen a demo of it so cannot judge.
I'm currently sitting 8 feet from the 80 inch and thinking about a 131 or 117 inch 16/9 screen from 13,5 feet (so basically not using the lens memory).

I've never done it, but if I did I would use 2 screens. TV/GAMES will want the 16:9... even some new movies like Avengers are 16:9 and your probably going to be unhappy with loosing that much screen real-estate when it happens. Another reason I never bothered was the added brightness was a draw for me... but with the new 3d projector's everybody is pushing the max lumens up another 20-30% anyhow.

Also somebody please correct me if I'm wrong but I think there is a fundamental difference between how the panasonic uses lens memory to kind of fake CIH vs. having an actual lens etc. do the conversion. While it's great for getting that image out at a low cost, I think you lose some of the benefits of a traditional lens CIH setup anyhow. Sorry I don't have any real knowledge for you, I haven't looked at it in a while.... just figured I would mention it if you wanted to look into it.
post #171 of 3208
Gah! I so want to pull the trigger on this projector, but am being told here http://www.avsforum.com/t/1436319/need-help-on-projector-screen that it prob wont do for what I want. confused.gif
post #172 of 3208
Have they done anything with the 8000 to help eliminate dust blobs?
post #173 of 3208
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

it's very easy to take the 'through the glasses' screenshots. None of the pro reviews will commit to this for some reason. it's the one time screenshots are very close to what the eye is actually seeing with the glasses on.
otherwise, comments on crosstalk are purely subjective imo. The only projectors that can do it flawlessly are the DLP's, so it's a matter of how well the LCD/LCOS/SXRD panel's can handle scenes with strong parallax and high contrast (dark on light, etc).
Less words, more photos should be the theme on a '3D' review. cool.gif

Review sites like projectorcentral & projectorreviews are quantitative in some aspects (lumens, input lag, etc.) and not at all in others (native contrast, black levels, 3D). I really appreciate the areas in which they are quantitative; the rest of the articles seem highly subjective to me.

Meanwhile, cine4home at least seems to do valid native contrast measurements, hometheater.com gives nice black level measurements (albeit sometimes w/ DI sometimes without, so not very controlled).

Finding meaningful, relevant information across all these sites is frustrating at best. This extends to other industries as well.

Which is why I appreciate Zombie's controlled 3D tests, & the help other people with experience on this forum provide. For example, I should've tempered my expectations when people here told me that MotionFlow even in Low on Sony projectors tends to have a video effect, & that Dark Frame Insertion is unwatchable due to flicker... ended up confirming both these findings in person when I received my 50ES...
post #174 of 3208
Can you clarify under what conditions there is frame insertion taking place?
post #175 of 3208
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

Can you clarify under what conditions there is frame insertion taking place?

When you enable "Film projection" under 'MotionFlow'. Completely useless for 24p content. I'd love to talk to Sony about what they were thinking... and why they couldn't implement it better in their nth generation of this tech.
post #176 of 3208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash3d View Post

Currently using a Sanyo Z2000 and a 80 inch screen, moving to another house were I'm going to make a bat cave and in the market for a new screen and projector.
I'm doing some research about the lens memory on the Panasonic and correct me if wrong but the options you have to use both formats (16/9 and 2:35/1) are:
1.Buy a 2:35/1 screen and use side masking for 16/9 material (you will loose a lot of height [and impact] compared to a 16/9 setup) <-- CIH setup?
2.Buy an auto masking screen (4 way) (no option, very expensive).
3.Buy a Black Diamond screen and the non projected white looks black (no option, very expensive).
4.Buy 2 screens, one fixed (2:35/1) and one electric (16/9) (i think the cheapest solution for retaining the optimal sizes in both display modes)
5.Buy 1 large 16/9 and just watch the 2:35/1 material with black borders (not using lens memory).
Just wondering if a 2:35/1 setup will be worth the effort, haven't seen a demo of it so cannot judge.
I'm currently sitting 8 feet from the 80 inch and thinking about a 131 or 117 inch 16/9 screen from 13,5 feet (so basically not using the lens memory).

I recently just decided to go with option 5. It seems like as close to the best of both worlds as you can get. If I'm ever really desperate and bored, I'll come up with some sort of DIY mask for the 2.4 content and that "widescreen" experience. It really came down to not wanting to squish the 16:9 content. Of course, because of this, the lens memory feature isn't quite as important anymore, so it's broadened my projector search beyond just the AE8000, which I was strongly leaning towards.
post #177 of 3208
It sounds like the fan noise in minimal, but I haven't heard much about the iris noise on the AE8000U. My install will have the pj very close to the seating area, ~3-4 feet or so. I've been strongly considering building a hush box due to this. Taking into account the fan noise + any iris noise, would I need a hush box for this pj with people sitting so close? If I built a hush box, how would that affect the IR emitter? Would I need to get an extender, or design the box in a way that the IR can still get out?

Any input is appreciated! Thanks!
post #178 of 3208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash3d View Post

Currently using a Sanyo Z2000 and a 80 inch screen, moving to another house were I'm going to make a bat cave and in the market for a new screen and projector.
I'm doing some research about the lens memory on the Panasonic and correct me if wrong but the options you have to use both formats (16/9 and 2:35/1) are:
1.Buy a 2:35/1 screen and use side masking for 16/9 material (you will loose a lot of height [and impact] compared to a 16/9 setup) <-- CIH setup?
2.Buy an auto masking screen (4 way) (no option, very expensive).
3.Buy a Black Diamond screen and the non projected white looks black (no option, very expensive).
4.Buy 2 screens, one fixed (2:35/1) and one electric (16/9) (i think the cheapest solution for retaining the optimal sizes in both display modes)
5.Buy 1 large 16/9 and just watch the 2:35/1 material with black borders (not using lens memory).
Just wondering if a 2:35/1 setup will be worth the effort, haven't seen a demo of it so cannot judge.
I'm currently sitting 8 feet from the 80 inch and thinking about a 131 or 117 inch 16/9 screen from 13,5 feet (so basically not using the lens memory).

There is another option... Motorized 16/9 screen is also smaller diagonal 2.35/1 screen.
So for 2.35/1 content you can use it like below:

- roll up the screen until 2.35 format;
- shift up the image without using lens shift (there is a function in menu);
- save the position in lens memory.

I'm planning to use this setup if I'll go with Panny ae8k.
The screen in the photo is 190" 2.35/1 (rolled up 200" 16/9).



But there are some nuances:
- screen's case must be black. (or you should mask it, like I did)
- screen should be hanged not too high. Otherwise have to look up, when watching movie.
post #179 of 3208
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yusuf.0088 View Post

There is another option... Motorized 16/9 screen is also smaller diagonal 2.35/1 screen.
So for 2.35/1 content you can use it like below:
- roll up the screen until 2.35 format;
- shift up the image without using lens shift (there is a function in menu);
- save the position in lens memory.
I'm planning to use this setup if I'll go with Panny ae8k.
The screen in the photo is 190" 2.35/1 (rolled up 200" 16/9).

But there are some nuances:
- screen's case must be black. (or you should mask it, like I did)
- screen should be hanged not too high. Otherwise have to look up, when watching movie.

I have also been considering the new Panasonic specifically due to it's powered lens memory feature...

I'm on the fence for a new PJ and we are facing the same "dilemma" regarding how to best display both (16x9 and 2:35) formats.
If you choose a native 2:35 screen, then you will have some sort of a reduced height 16x9 picture.

The above technique is good if you can hang your screen down to the appropriate height.
Our media room is also a family room and we have to use a ceiling mount electric drop screen.
This puts the "rolled up" 2:35 format too high.

The two screens idea is a good fix, if you have motorized lens adjustment or memory.
Many of the new mid priced PJs (like the Sony or Epson) lack motorized lens controls.
For our projector, I need a (cathedral) ceiling mount with a drop tube and manually adjusting focus and zoom for two different format screens is not an option.

My thinking is to go halfway between the two formats and use a 2.0:1 screen like this: http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/residential/products/variable_masking_dedicated_fixed/directors_choice_2.0/directors_choice_2.0_residential.html

Then use a modern digital processor, like the Lumagen, to adjust the picture of both formats to 2.0:1, with non linear stretch.
I realize that this will cause a minute amount of distortion, but you end up with the best of both worlds.

I have searched AVS, but aside from a few Optoma owners who use Optomas "SuperWide" feature (which shifts both formats to 2.0:1), I have not seen anyone try this.
Any thoughts?
post #180 of 3208
Unless you are limited to width in your room I see no reason not to do a 2.35 screen. Pick the 16:9 screen size you like and then just add to the width to make it 2.35, simple enough wink.gif
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