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Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 52

post #1531 of 3198
I just got my projector yesterday. I didn't mess with it much, but it looked pretty good out of the box. My Oppo worked great in 3D. My DirecTV receiver is really finicky about locking into 3D, but it eventually worked. Hope to watch the Hobbit 3D on DirecTV this weekend.

FYI, I got it from Rakuten with a 15% cash back promotion. Since I already have 4 pairs of Panasonic glasses, that was a better deal for me than the current rebate.
post #1532 of 3198
What warranty comes with that from Rakuten?
post #1533 of 3198
Sounds like a deal...at the rate we are looking at houses and failing to fall in love with the you'll be done with your basement before I get into a house
post #1534 of 3198
Do you still get the 2 year/2000 hour warranty no matter who you buy it from?
post #1535 of 3198
Hello there everyone,

I just came to know about this thread and I have read almost all posts in last couple days. I am about to buy this projector. Today I found this review which is pretty damning but to be fair it's an old review. Can anyone comment if some of us has seen this "uniformity" issue with 8000 ?

http://hometheaterreview.com/panasonic-pt-ae8000u-3d-hd-front-projector-reviewed/

Specially on the 2nd page the reviewer mentions that uniformity issue.

Thanks much in advance !!
post #1536 of 3198
3LCD projectors can certainly suffer from uniformity problems. I can say though that my projector has no uniformity issues that I can detect. I have carefully looked over many test images of solid colors and it all looks perfectly uniform.

I had a friend come over who loves the Epson 3LCD projectors and he took a look and was very impressed with the uniformity and convergence of my Panny 8000.
post #1537 of 3198
SirMaster! Thanks for your prompt reply !!
post #1538 of 3198
Im getting quite a bit of uniformity problems now that I have more hours on the projector. On a white background such as snow I can really see the color shifting from red to green in different parts of the screen, especially on the rec 709 setting, not as much on cinema 2 or normal. It didn't come on until about 500 hours or so on the lamp, but to be fair I use the hell out of the thing as its my primary tv and video game player. All in all though the picture is fantastic and its really a minor distraction for me.
post #1539 of 3198
Those of you who watch a lot of 3D content -- did you have to adjust your settings at all to get it looking right?

I have a 120" screen that I project on, and I have my settings in the projector to be 120". I just got a new Sony S5100 blu-ray player and I set that to also be 120" screen for the 3D settings.

I watched Jurassic Park 3D last night, with default 3D settings on the projector, and I definitely notice the "blur" (where you see ghost images to the left/right of the borders of objects) quite a bit in different areas. It does change noticeably based on the brightness settings that I use as well, but I just noticed it quite a bit. On my Plasma TV the 3D very rarely has the edges like that noticeable where I see the ghosting. The 3D on my Panasonic ST50 does seem noticeably better than on the 8000 for this exact reason.

Then I notice if I take a still shot that I see this, then adjust the 3D settings to get rid of it, on the next scene I will see the ghosting problem in a different spot now.

I sit about 13 feet or so away from my screen when watching.

So is there something I'm doing wrong with my settings, or is this just a limitation of the 3D in this projector?
post #1540 of 3198
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

Those of you who watch a lot of 3D content -- did you have to adjust your settings at all to get it looking right?

I have a 120" screen that I project on, and I have my settings in the projector to be 120". I just got a new Sony S5100 blu-ray player and I set that to also be 120" screen for the 3D settings.

I watched Jurassic Park 3D last night, with default 3D settings on the projector, and I definitely notice the "blur" (where you see ghost images to the left/right of the borders of objects) quite a bit in different areas. It does change noticeably based on the brightness settings that I use as well, but I just noticed it quite a bit. On my Plasma TV the 3D very rarely has the edges like that noticeable where I see the ghosting. The 3D on my Panasonic ST50 does seem noticeably better than on the 8000 for this exact reason.

Then I notice if I take a still shot that I see this, then adjust the 3D settings to get rid of it, on the next scene I will see the ghosting problem in a different spot now.

I sit about 13 feet or so away from my screen when watching.

So is there something I'm doing wrong with my settings, or is this just a limitation of the 3D in this projector?
I noticed the same thing with The Chronicles of Narnia: The Voyage of the Dawn Treader about a month ago and last night on The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey. Both times I was using the Panasonic glasses. I have a 133" screen which isn't available on the list of screen sizes so I used the next size up per the manual. I sit about 15' away.

I actually walked up to about 4' away from the screen last night just to see if anything breaks up and man, the picture actually looked amazing that close. I was surprised how well the 3D held up and didn't cause any issues and the detail was amazing.
post #1541 of 3198
Hmm.. I just watched JP 3D over the weekend and it was truly an amazing experience- the reason why I purchased a 3D projector. I have pretty much every major 3D Blu-ray release, and didn't notice any blurring or uniformity issues with JP 3D.

While I used the WOW disc to calibrate for 2D, I have not performed any calibration in 3D. I definitely should, but I usually just put it on Dynamic. I would love to find the time to do a proper 3D calibration.

That said, I did not notice any crosstalk, ghosting, or blurring with JP 3D. (I did when I owned an AE7000U, which I promptly returned)
post #1542 of 3198
Quote:
Originally Posted by elgordo1 View Post

Hmm.. I just watched JP 3D over the weekend and it was truly an amazing experience- the reason why I purchased a 3D projector. I have pretty much every major 3D Blu-ray release, and didn't notice any blurring or uniformity issues with JP 3D.

While I used the WOW disc to calibrate for 2D, I have not performed any calibration in 3D. I definitely should, but I usually just put it on Dynamic. I would love to find the time to do a proper 3D calibration.

That said, I did not notice any crosstalk, ghosting, or blurring with JP 3D. (I did when I owned an AE7000U, which I promptly returned)

And you are using default 3d settings on the 8000?

By the "blurring" I think I'm talking about crosstalk. Basically when the images aren't quite in sync and cause some extra "edges" to show up around the items that are supposed to be in 3D.
post #1543 of 3198
It finally happened. My Epson HC8100's bulb failed prematurely yet again (plenty of ventilation around the ceiling mount, no abuse such as fast cycles on and off, filter cleaned regularly, etc.). This is the fourth bulb on the second 8100 that has failed; I have never gotten more than 1400 hours of use out of any bulb prior to burnout. To their credit, Epson has been OUTSTANDING and has taken care of me every time (overnighted another 8100 and new bulbs). But it's time for a change.

I'm set on getting the 8000 (was considering the 5020 but Epson's QC doesn't come anywhere close to their fantastic customer service; there are already reports of premature 5020 failure and terrible panel alignment). I like that the Panasonic has low input lag, improved brightness, motorized lens, 21:9 lens memory, etc. The $200 rebate, free glasses, and one year added to the warranty make the deal sweeter.

Is there anything I should be wary of prior to buying the 8000? With the failures of the 8100, I'd rather that my next projector be more dependable and get close to the 4000-5000 promised bulb life. Also, I'm very disappointed that Panasonic has put an hours limit on the factory warranty (I'm a heavy user and I put close to 2000 hours annually on a bulb) and I've heard they have abysmal customer service but I may be willing to live with that if their product is more dependable than Epson.
post #1544 of 3198
Hi guys

My AE8000EZ arrived today (I believe that's the model number used in Australia) and my first exercise was to use the Disney WoW disk for calibration. I have to say that the brightness and contrast tests dialled in some incredibly weird values to get the calibration screen to display correctly. I'm calibrating game mode, as I want the lowest latency possible for my PC games, but really didn't expect to have to use a value of minus 30 for brightness and plus 45 for contrast. I've looked at a few other people's settings and they were nowhere near that extreme. What gives? The tests are fairly simple, so I don't think I misunderstood them at all?
post #1545 of 3198
Quote:
Originally Posted by GalvatronType_R View Post

It finally happened. My Epson HC8100's bulb failed prematurely yet again (plenty of ventilation around the ceiling mount, no abuse such as fast cycles on and off, filter cleaned regularly, etc.). This is the fourth bulb on the second 8100 that has failed; I have never gotten more than 1400 hours of use out of any bulb prior to burnout. To their credit, Epson has been OUTSTANDING and has taken care of me every time (overnighted another 8100 and new bulbs). But it's time for a change.

I'm set on getting the 8000 (was considering the 5020 but Epson's QC doesn't come anywhere close to their fantastic customer service; there are already reports of premature 5020 failure and terrible panel alignment). I like that the Panasonic has low input lag, improved brightness, motorized lens, 21:9 lens memory, etc. The $200 rebate, free glasses, and one year added to the warranty make the deal sweeter.

Is there anything I should be wary of prior to buying the 8000? With the failures of the 8100, I'd rather that my next projector be more dependable and get close to the 4000-5000 promised bulb life. Also, I'm very disappointed that Panasonic has put an hours limit on the factory warranty (I'm a heavy user and I put close to 2000 hours annually on a bulb) and I've heard they have abysmal customer service but I may be willing to live with that if their product is more dependable than Epson.

If you do pull the trigger on the 8000, I will be anxiously awaiting your feedback.

Also, very interesting to hear about the premature failure issue on the 5020.

I am as ON THE FENCE as anyone could ever be between the Panny 8000 and the EPSON 5020. I hear such great things about both PJ's. In the end, it may come down to CS for me...which is certainly in EPSON's favor. I've heard nightmares about replacing/repairing the Panny 8000's when they go down. It may just come down to a coin flip for me. I'm not kidding either. biggrin.gif
post #1546 of 3198
From what I've heard, here is the difference between Epson and Panasonic customer service:

-if your Epson PJ breaks, they will overnight a refurb to you with minimal fuss and they do not require that you send your projector in first; in fact, they tell you to use the shipping box to send the broken projector with free shipping both ways; there are instances where you may be a month or two out of warranty yet Epson will still take care of you (I can testify to this; of the 4 bulbs that they replaced, one was out of warranty yet Epson still sent me a new bulb for free, shipping included); in short, OUTSTANDING customer service which shows that Epson takes care of its customers

-if your Panasonic PJ breaks, they will require you to send the broken projector to them for "inspection" at their leisure (shipping will be on you, of course); they will then take their time to examine your projector to determine if failure was due to abuse and this examination may take weeks or even months (there is a story of someone waiting almost 6 months before Panasonic would send another 7000); if you are out of warranty even one day, Panasonic will not take care of you (there is another story where a guy was out of warranty by one week and Panasonic CS told him to get lost); in short, Panasonic treats its customers like criminals where all failures must be due to customer abuse unless they take their sweet time to inspect the projector and determine otherwise

But despite all this, I'm leaning toward the 8000 if it is more dependable than the 5020, which should minimize dealing with Panasonic's terrible customer service.
post #1547 of 3198
Hi folks,

I am waiting for my new PT-AE8000u to be delivered tomorrow and wanted to get some help. I have the old Chief mount which I used for my old Sanyo PLV Z4 and from what I have read it seems to be adequate for the new projector as well. The problem is that I seem to have only 3 of the extender legs which screw into the mounting holes on the projector. I am sure that I had 4 when I got it, but the Sanyo had only 3 holes to mount and the other one is long gone. The question is can I use just 3 of the extender legs to mount the Panasonic safely and is there any specific way to use them. I have seen some of the universal mounts with only 3 extender legs...

Thanks a bunch.
post #1548 of 3198
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechNovice View Post

Hi guys

My AE8000EZ arrived today (I believe that's the model number used in Australia) and my first exercise was to use the Disney WoW disk for calibration. I have to say that the brightness and contrast tests dialled in some incredibly weird values to get the calibration screen to display correctly. I'm calibrating game mode, as I want the lowest latency possible for my PC games, but really didn't expect to have to use a value of minus 30 for brightness and plus 45 for contrast. I've looked at a few other people's settings and they were nowhere near that extreme. What gives? The tests are fairly simple, so I don't think I misunderstood them at all?

That wouldn't surprise me too much. I haven't calibrated Game mode yet but it does look very bright in that mode, perhaps as bright as Dynamic. Try calibrating REC709 mode and comparing that with what other people get (and using it for all non-game viewing).
post #1549 of 3198
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gradenko View Post

That wouldn't surprise me too much. I haven't calibrated Game mode yet but it does look very bright in that mode, perhaps as bright as Dynamic. Try calibrating REC709 mode and comparing that with what other people get (and using it for all non-game viewing).

Ok, so I tried calibrating Cinema 2 using the Disney WoW Brightness and Contrast Test patterns, and ended up with -30 brightness, + 40 contrast. Seriously, how on Earth did all these other people get true black and white with such small changes? it's not even close to being calibrated if I use those values.
post #1550 of 3198
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechNovice View Post

Ok, so I tried calibrating Cinema 2 using the Disney WoW Brightness and Contrast Test patterns, and ended up with -30 brightness, + 40 contrast. Seriously, how on Earth did all these other people get true black and white with such small changes? it's not even close to being calibrated if I use those values.

You have your HDMI color levels missmatched between your player and projector if these are your calibration results. The Panasonic is very close to perfect with 0/0 and should only take a few ticks to dial it in to perfect levels.

I know this is the case because I had my levels missmatched at first too and came up with wild calibration settings like that too. You are destroying the picture quality if you keep it as is so I would suggest looking at resolving the levels.

Let me know if you can't get it resolved.
Edited by SirMaster - 5/1/13 at 8:36am
post #1551 of 3198
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

And you are using default 3d settings on the 8000?

By the "blurring" I think I'm talking about crosstalk. Basically when the images aren't quite in sync and cause some extra "edges" to show up around the items that are supposed to be in 3D.

Yep- I use the default settings and get pretty much zero crosstalk or ghosting. I typically use the "Dynamic" mode for 3D.
post #1552 of 3198
I'm also using Dynamic mode, normal brightness, and glasses on "light" mode with my 136" screen set to 140" in the projector. I get an excellent and bright 3D image and I rarely see crosstalk. I have to look for it and look for it in scenes I know it will be more prevelent to really see it. I see it maybe twice on a movie normally without looking for it and it's pretty minor.
post #1553 of 3198
Quote:
Originally Posted by elgordo1 View Post

Yep- I use the default settings and get pretty much zero crosstalk or ghosting. I typically use the "Dynamic" mode for 3D.

Hmm okay I tried setting it back to default and still I was definitely noticing quite a bit of cross talk. Maybe I will play around with the screen size settings and stuff. Maybe they aren't expecting people to sit 13" back from a 120" screen. I do definitely notice if I stand back behind my sitting area that the 3D does look better.

So I just did some more experimenting...

I put my projector on 200" and the blu-ray player on 200" too (just to see) and I'm still seeing the issues. I tried 40" as well and same thing. I had everything reset to default settings in the 3D options too.

I was just testing it out with the Jurassic Park 3D blu-ray at the title screen. Even the menu you can see some crosstalk. And then when it's flipping through the background parts of the movie, the one scene where they are entering the park under the big "JURASSIC PARK" sign in red letters through the big door, there is HUGE crosstalk at that part.

And then if I try to fix it so that the menu text on the title screen, so that it looks clear with no crosstalk by adjusting the settings, then it throws off other scenes and you see more crosstalk on other parts.

This was on Dynamic mode with normal for the brightness settings on the glasses.

So now I'm really confused by all this and it makes me wonder if I have a bad unit or if there is just something stupid that I'm missing.

FWIW, I've got a Sony S5100 as my blu-ray player and my AVR is a Denon 4311ci. I recently switched to this player from a PS3, but the PS3 had the same issues.

I wish there was some way I could take a picture of what I'm seeing.
Edited by purbeast - 5/3/13 at 2:55pm
post #1554 of 3198
I am looking to buy the panasonic ae 8000. I am from California, USA. I am having a real hard time finding a good price on this from a good dealer. Amazon has 3rd party sellers that look alittle shady to me but sell it for $2350.

I called a local panasonic dealer for a price quote on this and they quoted me $4000 lol. I couldnt belive it, msrp was $2800 in september 2012 when it came out. It seems the dealers are trying to rip customers off around here.

Anyone have any ideas where the best place to get this projector from?
post #1555 of 3198
So I just tried hooking my 8000 straight to my blu-ray player to see if the receiver was causing some kind of issue, and I'm still getting the same crosstalk issue, so it's not the receiver.

Is there some special kind of "3d" focus you have to get set right or something? There is just no way that I can see all this crosstalk and everyone else is saying it doesn't exist, unless I have a faulty unit or something set up wrong.
post #1556 of 3198
Quote:
Originally Posted by opnr2000 View Post

I am looking to buy the panasonic ae 8000. I am from California, USA. I am having a real hard time finding a good price on this from a good dealer. Amazon has 3rd party sellers that look alittle shady to me but sell it for $2350.

I called a local panasonic dealer for a price quote on this and they quoted me $4000 lol. I couldnt belive it, msrp was $2800 in september 2012 when it came out. It seems the dealers are trying to rip customers off around here.

Anyone have any ideas where the best place to get this projector from?

Visual Apex is an authorized dealer and they are great guys.
post #1557 of 3198
Quote:
Originally Posted by opnr2000 View Post

I am looking to buy the panasonic ae 8000. I am from California, USA. I am having a real hard time finding a good price on this from a good dealer. Amazon has 3rd party sellers that look alittle shady to me but sell it for $2350.

I called a local panasonic dealer for a price quote on this and they quoted me $4000 lol. I couldnt belive it, msrp was $2800 in september 2012 when it came out. It seems the dealers are trying to rip customers off around here.

Anyone have any ideas where the best place to get this projector from?

Projectorpeople.com is also very reputable and you'll get the best price, warranty, free 3-D glasses, etc.
post #1558 of 3198
Audiogeneral :-)
post #1559 of 3198
Thanks guys i think i will order it from projector people !
post #1560 of 3198
So I saw Iron Man 3 last night in 3D and this is the first time I've gone to the theater since I have set up my HT. The 3D in the theater definitely looked MUCH crisper/clearer than the 3D from my 8000. So I'm really starting to wonder if my unit is just faulty with the 3D or something....
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