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Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 53

post #1561 of 3209
That is strange. I've got my PT-AE8000U projecting onto a 106 inch screen, seated at about 10 feet from the screen and the 3D, in my opinion, is far better than in the theater. Movies like Avatar, Sanctum and Bolt 3D have much better depth and pop-out on my home-system than in the theater. My only complaint is that it's not quite as bright as I'd like in 3D, but I kinda noticed that in the theater too. I can make it quite acceptable by setting the picture to "Dynamic" mode, increasing the brightness a tad (and saving that as a preset) and, in the 3D settings, changing the "3D eyewear brightness" to "Light".

The only time I've really noticed crosstalk was in one of the two underwater IMAX documentaries ("Deep Sea" or "Under the Sea"...can't remember which) during the opening credits when the text is floating out of the screen toward the viewer. There may have been other occurrences, but that's the only time it ever really struck me as noticeable. Otherwise, those documentaries are visually stunning examples of 3D done well. In fact, there is one scene, about half-way through "Under the Sea" (if I recall correctly), when a large cod is projected so far out of the screen that its nose is less than arm's length away from me (I find myself reaching out to poke its eyes with my fingertips and my arm is nowhere near completely extended). The effect will vary depending on how big your screen is and how far away from it you're seated, but if you can sit in that sweet-spot, the effect is mind-blowing. I've paused the movie at that point just because it is the most stunning example of "pop-out" I've ever seen...especially considering that I feel absolutely no eyestrain and see no crosstalk at that extreme level of screen pop-out.

If you're really having problems getting a decent 3D image, could it be that you've altered many of the settings and are far from the defaults? If so, something you may consider is resetting the projector back to it's factory defaults in the menu (Option/Initialize All). You may lose any custom presets if you've created any, but it will restore all the settings back to factory defaults...I only mention this because I have a tendency to experiment with settings and found myself wanting to reset everything.

Anyways, sorry to see you're having issues with the 3D. I can safely say though, that the AE8000U has an amazing 3D system with amazing image quality. I haven't seen the Epson alternative in action, but what I've read about the fan noise and the clicking sounds from the dynamic iris was enough to make me opt for the more expensive Panasonic. I'm kinda worried about what I'm reading with regards to their crap customer service, but otherwise, I love everything about this amazing projector.

Oh, there is one thing I've noticed that makes me go "Hmm"; I've got my projector hooked up to only one source and that is my computer. I've got a Blu-Ray drive, a nice Geforce SLI video-card setup and it's perfect in every way except one thing: If I create a bitmap image of pure blackness and full-screen it, I notice a slight greenish glow at the top-left and bottom right corners. I've never noticed it until I decided to test the uniformity with all black and all white bitmaps at fulls-screen. I thought it was an issue with the panels, however, if I go into the menu and set the background color to black (from the default blue) and fire up the projector with my computer not powered up, the projector will flash on and off the picture of the inputs (which it does whenever it can't find a live input), and those corners will be perfectly black, which tells me it's not a defect in the panels as the lamp is on, the panels are live, but the slight green glow is only there when my computer is outputting to the projector. When there's no source, the black setting will block all the light perfectly. I don't have the advantage of being able to select another input at the moment, so I can't tell if my computer is the issue, or the cables....? I have 25 feet of cheap HDMI cable between my computer and the projector, so maybe that's causing the problem? If anyone has any idea what could cause that slight green glow at the corners, even though it's perfectly black when no source is available, I'd appreciate hearing it! Again, I don't really consider it a problem as I've never noticed it until I tested a black bitmap image.

Oops, I'm writing a small book here...sorry. Love the projector and find its 3D image to be absolutely superb, so either you do indeed have a buggy unit or some settings are way out of whack. Hope you resolve it!
Edited by Geezertron - 5/5/13 at 8:34pm
post #1562 of 3209
Ok guys!

I finally purchased a shelf for my PJ. So, the big question is: what is the ideal location to install the self? Is there a real benefit to install the shelf to ensure the PJ's lens is dead center at the screen (vertically and horizontally)?

Or, doesn't really matter as long as it is not above the screen frame?

Thanks in advance!
post #1563 of 3209
Actually, I've got my shelf situated slightly higher than the top of the screen and about a foot to the right of the screen's center. This thing has got amazing optical lens-shift. In fact, the lens-shift (the joystick behind the removable panel to the right of the lens...make sure you turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it before you shift and tighten when you've got the perfect setting) is so extreme that I don't know why they bothered including the keystone correction in the menu. I can only imagine how extreme the projection angle must be to require keystone correction.
post #1564 of 3209
Well, theoretically you want to use the least lens shift as possible. The more lens shift you use, the more focus, convergence, uniformity etc problems will show up. Also, no lens is perfect and the further you shift it, the more lens distortion will result.
post #1565 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezertron View Post

Actually, I've got my shelf situated slightly higher than the top of the screen and about a foot to the right of the screen's center. This thing has got amazing optical lens-shift. In fact, the lens-shift (the joystick behind the removable panel to the right of the lens...make sure you turn it counter-clockwise to loosen it before you shift and tighten when you've got the perfect setting) is so extreme that I don't know why they bothered including the keystone correction in the menu. I can only imagine how extreme the projection angle must be to require keystone correction.

I have had no success positioning the PJ above the screen while using lens memory to zoom between 16:9 and 2.35:1. In those situations keystone adjustment would be required.
post #1566 of 3209
Hmm...interesting replies. So maybe those greenish glows at the corners would go away if my projector was at dead-center to the screen? Shame that's not possible with our setup here. Also, I wasn't aware of the zoom issues with 2.35:1 screens. I'm not noticing any focus issues with the high lens shift though..small test seems clear across the whole screen if I'm on a web-page. Next time we move though, I'll have to try to get it more centered.
post #1567 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezertron View Post

That is strange. I've got my PT-AE8000U projecting onto a 106 inch screen, seated at about 10 feet from the screen and the 3D, in my opinion, is far better than in the theater. Movies like Avatar, Sanctum and Bolt 3D have much better depth and pop-out on my home-system than in the theater. My only complaint is that it's not quite as bright as I'd like in 3D, but I kinda noticed that in the theater too. I can make it quite acceptable by setting the picture to "Dynamic" mode, increasing the brightness a tad (and saving that as a preset) and, in the 3D settings, changing the "3D eyewear brightness" to "Light".

The only time I've really noticed crosstalk was in one of the two underwater IMAX documentaries ("Deep Sea" or "Under the Sea"...can't remember which) during the opening credits when the text is floating out of the screen toward the viewer. There may have been other occurrences, but that's the only time it ever really struck me as noticeable. Otherwise, those documentaries are visually stunning examples of 3D done well. In fact, there is one scene, about half-way through "Under the Sea" (if I recall correctly), when a large cod is projected so far out of the screen that its nose is less than arm's length away from me (I find myself reaching out to poke its eyes with my fingertips and my arm is nowhere near completely extended). The effect will vary depending on how big your screen is and how far away from it you're seated, but if you can sit in that sweet-spot, the effect is mind-blowing. I've paused the movie at that point just because it is the most stunning example of "pop-out" I've ever seen...especially considering that I feel absolutely no eyestrain and see no crosstalk at that extreme level of screen pop-out.

If you're really having problems getting a decent 3D image, could it be that you've altered many of the settings and are far from the defaults? If so, something you may consider is resetting the projector back to it's factory defaults in the menu (Option/Initialize All). You may lose any custom presets if you've created any, but it will restore all the settings back to factory defaults...I only mention this because I have a tendency to experiment with settings and found myself wanting to reset everything.

Anyways, sorry to see you're having issues with the 3D. I can safely say though, that the AE8000U has an amazing 3D system with amazing image quality. I haven't seen the Epson alternative in action, but what I've read about the fan noise and the clicking sounds from the dynamic iris was enough to make me opt for the more expensive Panasonic. I'm kinda worried about what I'm reading with regards to their crap customer service, but otherwise, I love everything about this amazing projector.

Oh, there is one thing I've noticed that makes me go "Hmm"; I've got my projector hooked up to only one source and that is my computer. I've got a Blu-Ray drive, a nice Geforce SLI video-card setup and it's perfect in every way except one thing: If I create a bitmap image of pure blackness and full-screen it, I notice a slight greenish glow at the top-left and bottom right corners. I've never noticed it until I decided to test the uniformity with all black and all white bitmaps at fulls-screen. I thought it was an issue with the panels, however, if I go into the menu and set the background color to black (from the default blue) and fire up the projector with my computer not powered up, the projector will flash on and off the picture of the inputs (which it does whenever it can't find a live input), and those corners will be perfectly black, which tells me it's not a defect in the panels as the lamp is on, the panels are live, but the slight green glow is only there when my computer is outputting to the projector. When there's no source, the black setting will block all the light perfectly. I don't have the advantage of being able to select another input at the moment, so I can't tell if my computer is the issue, or the cables....? I have 25 feet of cheap HDMI cable between my computer and the projector, so maybe that's causing the problem? If anyone has any idea what could cause that slight green glow at the corners, even though it's perfectly black when no source is available, I'd appreciate hearing it! Again, I don't really consider it a problem as I've never noticed it until I tested a black bitmap image.

Oops, I'm writing a small book here...sorry. Love the projector and find its 3D image to be absolutely superb, so either you do indeed have a buggy unit or some settings are way out of whack. Hope you resolve it!

Thanks for the long reply. I will try at some point this week to return everything to default settings. I really did not mess with much of the settings at all though. I liked the out of the box settings.

I do know however, that I don't have mine in eco mode.
post #1568 of 3209
Purbeast, Brave 3D Blu-ray has a picture calibration test (in the Set Up Menu) which includes a test to test 3D. Not sure if that will help you. But there was one test that had a strange result for me; I'm not sure if anyone had this problem, it's the test where it shows you two completely different images: one for the left eye and another for the right eye. So if you close your left eye, you should see a Toy Story character, but if you close your right eye, you should see a completely different Toy Story character. I had a problem with, I believe, the left eye where the left eye image was showing some obvious bleed-through of the right eye image, which is crosstalk. I haven't tested this out with a different 3DTVs but you shouldn't see any bleed-through. If anyone had different results with the AE8000, I'd be interested to hear smile.gif.

FYI, I'm not sure if this test is on other Disney 3D titles, I know it's not on Wreck-It Ralph.
post #1569 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

So I just tried hooking my 8000 straight to my blu-ray player to see if the receiver was causing some kind of issue, and I'm still getting the same crosstalk issue, so it's not the receiver.

Is there some special kind of "3d" focus you have to get set right or something? There is just no way that I can see all this crosstalk and everyone else is saying it doesn't exist, unless I have a faulty unit or something set up wrong.
So I watched another 3D movie with the family last night and we all agreed it didn't look right. My first thought was Its only been on a few minuets and I know from experience the minimum before run time is 30mins. And I'm finding my 8000 really needs to be in dynamic mode lamp normal minimum 30 minuets. Forty or so into the movie I went back to 2D and refocused the cross pattern in the middle of screen then jumped back to the 3D presentation to find it almost perfect.
post #1570 of 3209
Has anybody had difficulty with getting this projector to work with an ATI video card for 3D playback? I have an HD 6870 and I've tried TotalMedia and multiple versions of Cyberlink. When I try to put it into 3D mode the projector goes to the input screen like it doesn't have a signal. I then have to unplug and replug the HDMI cable to get the image back on the screen, which then disables the 3D playback because the device has changed. I know it's not the cables or anything in between, as I have tested 3D playback with an Nvidia card and a PS3. I've also tried downgrading the drivers to various different versions, but nothing has helped. Has anybody else run into this?
post #1571 of 3209
I also got around to watching my first 3D titles lastnight. I've had my 8000 for about 3 months and I just hadn't got around to it.. I had just received my Glasses from the rebate offer also

I charged my glasses and without any setup, not even into the 3D menu, I went to ESPN 3D channel and put the glasses. Contrary to what I was expecting (from all these post) everything worked...

Next I loaded up an IMAX title I have on my Laptop (Qosmio 775) loaded it into Zoom Player and started the title. At this point I had to do a little setup. I selected my 2.35 diagonal size of 140", then SIDE by SIDE mode. This got things close, I still had a little overlapping of the image by about 6 inches or so. Of course this makes for a terrible image. However it was not the Panny's fault, but my source. Although I was maximized, I was not full screen, doing so aligned everything perfectly, with no more adjustments.

I'm sharing this because I read a lot about 3D crosstalk, convergence issues etc...I've had none of it...not that i'm lucky but because I look to my setup first...my PJ/Screen squareness, picture mode, what I'm feed ing the PJ and how.
post #1572 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiddbios View Post

Has anybody had difficulty with getting this projector to work with an ATI video card for 3D playback? I have an HD 6870 and I've tried TotalMedia and multiple versions of Cyberlink. When I try to put it into 3D mode the projector goes to the input screen like it doesn't have a signal. I then have to unplug and replug the HDMI cable to get the image back on the screen, which then disables the 3D playback because the device has changed. I know it's not the cables or anything in between, as I have tested 3D playback with an Nvidia card and a PS3. I've also tried downgrading the drivers to various different versions, but nothing has helped. Has anybody else run into this?

How long is your HDMI run?
Are you going through a receiver and which one?
Do you know that that card has sufficient signal strength for the cable run you are using?

I'm running 35' cables and experience this from time to time. Its more prevalent on my monoprice high speed 24ga cable though. I have a second higher gage cable from monoprice also that drops out less.
post #1573 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiddbios View Post

Has anybody had difficulty with getting this projector to work with an ATI video card for 3D playback? I have an HD 6870 and I've tried TotalMedia and multiple versions of Cyberlink. When I try to put it into 3D mode the projector goes to the input screen like it doesn't have a signal. I then have to unplug and replug the HDMI cable to get the image back on the screen, which then disables the 3D playback because the device has changed. I know it's not the cables or anything in between, as I have tested 3D playback with an Nvidia card and a PS3. I've also tried downgrading the drivers to various different versions, but nothing has helped. Has anybody else run into this?
I use a Sapphire HD7750 and my cable from HTPC to AVR is a 6-foot Ultra thin RedMere and from the AVR to projector is a 50-foot RedMere cable and have no issues.

During normal usage, I have my desktop resolution/frequency set to 1080@60Hz. However, for 3D playback, the software will force 1080@24Hz so you need to use CCC to set this up BEFORE you start 3D playback.

I just set up, through CCC, presets with keyboard shortcuts, like Alt+F10 and Alt+F11, that allow me to switch between 1080@60Hz and 1080@24Hz so I can do that quickly. Probably all you'll need to do and you should be good to go. Although I don't use my HTPC all that often, I did use it a couple weeks ago. I used TMT 5 for the 3D title that weekend.
post #1574 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by foraye View Post

How long is your HDMI run?
Are you going through a receiver and which one?
Do you know that that card has sufficient signal strength for the cable run you are using?

I'm running 35' cables and experience this from time to time. Its more prevalent on my monoprice high speed 24ga cable though. I have a second higher gage cable from monoprice also that drops out less.

Thank you for your reply. Your post pointed me in the right direction and I connected my HTPC directly to my projector with a 15' cable. I was able to use 3D playback without issue. So now, the question is: where does the problem lie? I am running through a Yamaha RX-A3020 receiver. My PS3, Satellite and the same computer using an Nvidia card will all pass 3D. My assumption is that the receiver is boosting the signal, but perhaps I am mistaken and it is just passing it through like a conduit.

I have a 35' HDMI cable going from my receiver to a wall plate that then goes through a 3' HDMI cable to the projector. The computer connects to the receiver through a 6' HDMI cable. Maybe if I shortened the 3' to a 1' and the 6' to a 3' it might work? It just doesn't make a lot of sense to me that the computer is the only thing that can't pass 3D through the same setup.
post #1575 of 3209
I've got a question about the 3d settings. Does anyone notice the screen\-size setting actually doing anything? I have a 106 inch screen, so I set it a 100 inches, which is the closest setting. However, as an experiment, I've changed the setting back and forth from 40 inches (minimum) to 200 inches (maximum) while a 3d movie is playing, and it does absolutely nothing. I've even tried pausing the movie and carefully looking to see if the degree of separation for left and right eye changes, or if the perceived depth of the scene changes, and I can't see any change whatsoever. What should I be looking for? Should I not notice some obvious difference in the 3D image with such extremes in screen size settings? I've even paused a movie during a scene where there is extreme pop-out (an object sticks far out of the screen toward the viewer) and nothing changes between the two settings. What's going on?
post #1576 of 3209
Well, the relative depth of objects compared to one another is already encoded into the 3D movies so I wouldn't expect anything to change when you select the screen size. I don't think the projector could affect that. All it should be ale to do is alter the depth of the entier image at once which would be useless IMO.

My best guess is that the screen size option is used when using the 2D-to-3D conversion as the projector then has the ability to set separation and convergence for all the elements it detects in the scene.
post #1577 of 3209
I just got a PT-AE8000U a few days ago and so far I'm pretty satisfied especially with it being my first projector! I use it a lot for gaming so the "game" mode helps out a lot for lag! However the colors seem way too bright and are way off, I've tried looking around and this post has gotten pretty big so I could just be missing it but anyone have any calibration recommendations for this mode and any preferred mode for movies/tv?
post #1578 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post

Well, the relative depth of objects compared to one another is already encoded into the 3D movies so I wouldn't expect anything to change when you select the screen size. I don't think the projector could affect that. All it should be ale to do is alter the depth of the entier image at once which would be useless IMO.

My best guess is that the screen size option is used when using the 2D-to-3D conversion as the projector then has the ability to set separation and convergence for all the elements it detects in the scene.


2D to 3D is what came to mind also...
post #1579 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xzibit190 View Post

I just got a PT-AE8000U a few days ago and so far I'm pretty satisfied especially with it being my first projector! I use it a lot for gaming so the "game" mode helps out a lot for lag! However the colors seem way too bright and are way off, I've tried looking around and this post has gotten pretty big so I could just be missing it but anyone have any calibration recommendations for this mode and any preferred mode for movies/tv?

Don't use the "Game" mode picture preset. That doesn't do anything for input lag.

What you want to change when you play games is the "Frame Response" option in the "Other" menu. That's the one that impacts input lag and you will have about 31ms lag when set to "Fast"

http://cdn.avsforum.com/7/7d/500x1000px-LL-7d75ff4c_Frame20response.jpeg
post #1580 of 3209
Geezertron,

I made adjustments (screen size) on my PS3 and projector to get a better 3D effect. My adjustment have definitely more pop and look much better. I will send them to you when I arrive home this evening to try.

Best regards,

Rob
post #1581 of 3209
Well if you are changing a screen size like on the PS3 menus, that would have some effect for games since the PS3 is deciding on the depth for everything. Tt has the ability to do some adjustment for the 3D effect. I do not believe the setting would affect films though I could be wrong.
post #1582 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post

Don't use the "Game" mode picture preset. That doesn't do anything for input lag.

What you want to change when you play games is the "Frame Response" option in the "Other" menu. That's the one that impacts input lag and you will have about 31ms lag when set to "Fast"

http://cdn.avsforum.com/7/7d/500x1000px-LL-7d75ff4c_Frame20response.jpeg

Has anyone done any tests on input lag in "Game" mode? I ask because it's the only picture mode that causes the screen to go black before showing an image, same as it does when adjusting "Frame Response" to "Fast". I'd be surprised if "Game" mode doesn't increase frame response.
post #1583 of 3209
I'm in no way an expert but I've tested many games these past few days and have frame response turned to fast and don't see any difference besides color. You can obviously see the major lag when frame is set to normal.
post #1584 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post

Don't use the "Game" mode picture preset. That doesn't do anything for input lag.

What you want to change when you play games is the "Frame Response" option in the "Other" menu. That's the one that impacts input lag and you will have about 31ms lag when set to "Fast"

http://cdn.avsforum.com/7/7d/500x1000px-LL-7d75ff4c_Frame20response.jpeg

This is not true at all from my experience. There is a MAJOR difference in input lag between the Game mode and non-game modes. I play a lot of fighting ames and am extremely sensitive to lag, and can tell big time when I play a game and it is in the mode I keep it on for movies.
post #1585 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezertron View Post

I've got a question about the 3d settings. Does anyone notice the screen\-size setting actually doing anything? I have a 106 inch screen, so I set it a 100 inches, which is the closest setting. However, as an experiment, I've changed the setting back and forth from 40 inches (minimum) to 200 inches (maximum) while a 3d movie is playing, and it does absolutely nothing. I've even tried pausing the movie and carefully looking to see if the degree of separation for left and right eye changes, or if the perceived depth of the scene changes, and I can't see any change whatsoever. What should I be looking for? Should I not notice some obvious difference in the 3D image with such extremes in screen size settings? I've even paused a movie during a scene where there is extreme pop-out (an object sticks far out of the screen toward the viewer) and nothing changes between the two settings. What's going on?
Here are the two notes from the manual:
Quote:
- In the case that the actual projection screen size and the menu size do not match, select a screen size that is slightly larger than the actual screen size.

- If [AUTO SWITCHING] in the [LENS CONTROL] menu is set to [2.35:1 IMAGE DETECTION], set the size to 1.02 m (40") larger than the actual screen used for projection.
As to what this setting actually does, don't know. Maybe only used for 2D-to-3D? They should have made it clear in the manual but BD players have it too and they don't elaborate on its use either.
post #1586 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

This is not true at all from my experience. There is a MAJOR difference in input lag between the Game mode and non-game modes. I play a lot of fighting ames and am extremely sensitive to lag, and can tell big time when I play a game and it is in the mode I keep it on for movies.

Sounds like a test-off challenge to me!

How about also setting the Frame Response to FAST in GAME MODE also then..just to be sure?

I wanna know too...I've been slacking off on my Call of Duty due to my re-build, and the lag on my previous AE2000 was terrible. I feel my KDR would be a lot better
post #1587 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

This is not true at all from my experience. There is a MAJOR difference in input lag between the Game mode and non-game modes. I play a lot of fighting ames and am extremely sensitive to lag, and can tell big time when I play a game and it is in the mode I keep it on for movies.

That's because by default switching to "Game Mode" switches "Frame Response" to "Fast". If you just use another preset like Cinema 2 or Normal (which I find best for gaming due to brightness and contrast) you just need to switch the "Frame Response" setting to "Fast" manually.

The 8000 is roughly 50ms lag in "Normal" "Frame Response" and roughly 30ms in "Fast" "Frame Response" irregardless of the picture mode.

Another setting that needs to be checked too is the "Frame Creation" mode, This needs to be disabled to have the low input lag.

"Frame Response" and "Frame Creation" modes are the only settings that have any effect on lag.
post #1588 of 3209
Geezertron,

I looked at my setting. The PS3 will not let me see my adjustment. It will re-set it. If I recall, I set it to 80 inch screen (I have a 106" like you) and my Panny is at 160 inches. You can play with the sources size (it is 80 or 60 on my PS 3). I sit about 13 feet back and it is great. 3d glasses on normal. I use Cinema 2. Contrast +19, BRT +5 , color -3, color temp -2. Dynamic iris on. Try it. The colors and brightness are very good.
post #1589 of 3209
Geezertron,

I looked at my settings.. The PS3 will not let me see my adjustment. It will re-set it. If I recall, I set it to 80 inch screen (I have a 106" like you) and my Panny is at 160 inches. You can play with the sources size (it is 80 or 60 on my PS 3). I sit about 13 feet back and it is great. 3d glasses on normal. I use Cinema 2. Contrast +19, BRT +5 , color -3, color temp -2. Dynamic iris on. Try it. The colors and brightness are very good.
post #1590 of 3209
Anyone having problems with the automatic zoom focus on the projector. For some reason recently whenever I use the projector and the lens memory aspect ratio changes between 1:78 and 2:35 the focus is really blurry and I have to manually set the focus. My projector also sounds like it's trying to focus for longer than usual it seems like but seems like it can't find the focus it's looking for or something.

I also have tried refocusing both aspect ratios and then saving the lens memory over again hoping that next time the aspect ratio changed the focus would be spot on but it's still messing up. I'm thinking I may have to get my projector looked at, but I really don't want it in the Panasonic shop for a month.
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