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Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 56

post #1651 of 3195
I am considering this projector but want one that can be turned on when my AVR is turned on. My AVR, a Yamaha a1000, supports HDMI CEC and works with my current Samsung Plasma and Anynet+. The manual seems to indicate that Vieralink should work for what I want though I am not sure on the specific versions the manual mentions. Though I want the AVR to drive things, the manual reads more that the projector would control things? I want to use a tablet with Yamaha app to drive things if possible. Anyone done anything like this?
post #1652 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuddyRich View Post

I am considering this projector but want one that can be turned on when my AVR is turned on. My AVR, a Yamaha a1000, supports HDMI CEC and works with my current Samsung Plasma and Anynet+. The manual seems to indicate that Vieralink should work for what I want though I am not sure on the specific versions the manual mentions. Though I want the AVR to drive things, the manual reads more that the projector would control things? I want to use a tablet with Yamaha app to drive things if possible. Anyone done anything like this?

Not quite the same here, let me explain: I'm using the 12v trigger on my Denon (receiver) to turn my PJ on and off. It seems your Yammy has 12v trigger, so that might be an option too.
post #1653 of 3195
I thought of 12V as well, but I currently use 1 12V to kick off external amp. The 2nd would be used for a motorized screen (though I still debating on going fixed and ditching my current Sammy Plasma altogether.) Leaving me needing something else for Projector.

That said, from my projected placement, I would have to run a 20' cable to the projector from the AVR for the 12V trigger and I am not sure the Yamaha has the juice to trigger a 12V over that run. Maybe?
post #1654 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuddyRich View Post

I am considering this projector but want one that can be turned on when my AVR is turned on. My AVR, a Yamaha a1000, supports HDMI CEC and works with my current Samsung Plasma and Anynet+. The manual seems to indicate that Vieralink should work for what I want though I am not sure on the specific versions the manual mentions. Though I want the AVR to drive things, the manual reads more that the projector would control things?

I've never tried the reverse, but my receiver (Onkyo) turns on wen I turn on the AE8000.
post #1655 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuddyRich View Post

I thought of 12V as well, but I currently use 1 12V to kick off external amp. The 2nd would be used for a motorized screen (though I still debating on going fixed and ditching my current Sammy Plasma altogether.) Leaving me needing something else for Projector.

That said, from my projected placement, I would have to run a 20' cable to the projector from the AVR for the 12V trigger and I am not sure the Yamaha has the juice to trigger a 12V over that run. Maybe?

You can buy a trigger expansion module (like the one in the link below) to increase the number of triggers out of your receiver. So, you should be able to turn on and off multiple items hooked to your receiver.

http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/accessories/products/et3

Cheers!
post #1656 of 3195
Yesterday I bought a new Panasonic ae8000...I am changing my 2 years old Optoma HD20, a great little projector...


Also, I saw 2 different codes for the glasses...TY-EW3D3MU and TY-EW3D3ME...what are the differences?

Thanks!!!
Edited by evo5 - 6/20/13 at 2:04pm
post #1657 of 3195
You want TY-EW3D3MU. Those are the newest 3rd generation glasses.

TY-EW3D3ME are older 2nd generation I believe. They will work I think, but not as well.
post #1658 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post

You want TY-EW3D3MU. Those are the newest 3rd generation glasses.

TY-EW3D3ME are older 2nd generation I believe. They will work I think, but not as well.



Thank you, I think both are 3rd generation. On the Panasonic web site they recommend as TY-EW3D3M...without an E or U.
post #1659 of 3195
Anyone have focus issues with the 8000?
I have the 3000 in a game room and the 8000 in our home theatre now for 3 months and it constantly needs to be re focused. saved..then good for a day or so.
Then goes off by about 4 hits or so of the focus/zoom button.
Have not re focused the 3000 for 2 years.

pic quality of the 8000 is huge jump for anyone curious and we use the da lite hp 2.8 gain and cin2 eco mode and wow...
I thinks blacks look great. and colours pop.
130" 2,40 : 1 screen
post #1660 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevegamble View Post

Anyone have focus issues with the 8000?
I have the 3000 in a game room and the 8000 in our home theatre now for 3 months and it constantly needs to be re focused. saved..then good for a day or so.
Then goes off by about 4 hits or so of the focus/zoom button.
Have not re focused the 3000 for 2 years.

pic quality of the 8000 is huge jump for anyone curious and we use the da lite hp 2.8 gain and cin2 eco mode and wow...
I thinks blacks look great. and colours pop.
130" 2,40 : 1 screen
I only have about 5 hours on my unit and noticed the same issue. I just chalked it up to the lens cap being on and off. As I have seen the outer ring move ever so slightly when I would put it on after a movie.
post #1661 of 3195
I am utilizing 3 pairs of Panasonic's TY EW3D10U. They are the first generation 3D glasses that came with the AVATAR promo.
post #1662 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by kong View Post

I only have about 5 hours on my unit and noticed the same issue. I just chalked it up to the lens cap being on and off. As I have seen the outer ring move ever so slightly when I would put it on after a movie.

I noticed the same situation with my unit, so I'm sporting the unit without the lens cap for almost 3 weeks now without issues.
post #1663 of 3195
Hey guys. Im an Epson 5010 owner and have all always had Epsons but im really curious about this Panny. Im buying a new house and considering a 2.35:1 screen instead of my current 16x9. Ive read some of this thread but not all. Mainly I was wondering how do you guys feel about the 8000s lens memory and the way it works with the screen changes. Thanks.
post #1664 of 3195
Also..
I do not put my lens cap on, Dust (semi) controlled room.
Sometimes good for few days.

Sometimes needs adjusting at every power up.

Funny many people having this issue, yet Never heard of with previous AE3000 model , or others ?
As soon as I see text somewhere.. I notice it.
I am not a fussy owner, barely calibrated anything, looks good out of the box to me.

But out of focus almost everyday is a pain.
Especially with Auto 2;40 to 16;9 change up.

OK, so switch that to Manual , then leave the lense cap off , and then focus at beginning of show..
Now we're fine.
I don't think that should be the case on a new unit.

Hate to pack it up and loose it for 3-4 weeks.
post #1665 of 3195
me too,I'll get my AT6000 in about 4 hours... I can not wait! thanks 15.gif
post #1666 of 3195
Well I have 19 hours on unit. Watching The Call and there was plenty of scenes that I noticed a green hue in the top left and bottom right. It is under Normal mode. The picture is razor sharp under Normal, as I went through all the other picture modes it got really green, mixed red/red. Finally under 709 setting the black level evened out, I went back to the beginning of the movie and I lost the sharpness and the overall better settings under normal. Help forum members! I purchased from B&H.
post #1667 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by kong View Post

Well I have 19 hours on unit. Watching The Call and there was plenty of scenes that I noticed a green hue in the top left and bottom right. It is under Normal mode. The picture is razor sharp under Normal, as I went through all the other picture modes it got really green, mixed red/red. Finally under 709 setting the black level evened out, I went back to the beginning of the movie and I lost the sharpness and the overall better settings under normal. Help forum members! I purchased from B&H.
On an earlier post I reported something similar, myself & other forum members have a white glow rather than the green glow that you have. I have not found a total fix for it but using a calibration disc has reduced its impact. I found that the contrast settings are set quite a bit higher than they need to be. My problem corners are the top right & bottom left (which is the opposite to yours) but I have it shelf mounted & I notice yours is ceiling.
Edited by j.woodhouse - 6/26/13 at 1:22pm
post #1668 of 3195
I had the same green hue, however mine was in the lower left and it was moving rapidly back and fourth. It was there in all picture mods and even there when there was no source connected. I returned the projector right away and my replacement is perfect in every way!
post #1669 of 3195
Other than using a pro, is there some way, some software you can use to calibrate this puppy?

Been using this projector for a week and I too am blown away by the quality.
post #1670 of 3195
I used the Disney WOW BD to do a quick calibration. Unit was really good out of the box, but great after that. I haven't had the time to do the full advanced calibration on the disc yet, but to be honest I haven't felt the need.
post #1671 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Frank View Post

Other than using a pro, is there some way, some software you can use to calibrate this puppy?

Been using this projector for a week and I too am blown away by the quality.

I used the Spears & Munsil 2nd edition (this one includes 3D calibration)

http://www.amazon.com/Spears-Munsil-Benchmark-Calibration-Edition/dp/B00CKWI13O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372352951&sr=8-1&keywords=munsil

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

I used the Disney WOW BD to do a quick calibration. Unit was really good out of the box, but great after that. I haven't had the time to do the full advanced calibration on the disc yet, but to be honest I haven't felt the need.

Good call too!
post #1672 of 3195
Thanks, Spears-Munsil it is.
post #1673 of 3195
I see that I'm not the only one to get a whining unit! Mine also has two dust specks or pixel failures at the top LHS, with the unit being ceiling mounted. Bought it on Ebay and interestingly it was shipped from a refurbishing centre but am still writing to Panasonic Head Office in Japan to trace its history via its serial number. Both Canada and USA customer support were worse than useless and, as a prolific Panasonic buyer, I am approaching Japan with a view to obtaining reciprocal loyalty. If not, they'll lose me for good - loyalty is a two way process.
post #1674 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Mitchell View Post

I see that I'm not the only one to get a whining unit! Mine also has two dust specks or pixel failures at the top LHS, with the unit being ceiling mounted. Bought it on Ebay and interestingly it was shipped from a refurbishing centre but am still writing to Panasonic Head Office in Japan to trace its history via its serial number. Both Canada and USA customer support were worse than useless and, as a prolific Panasonic buyer, I am approaching Japan with a view to obtaining reciprocal loyalty. If not, they'll lose me for good - loyalty is a two way process.

Sorry to hear that your experience with Panasonic's customer service hasn't been that great. Just for my own education/understanding, the purchased that you made at eBay (refurbishing center) was covered by Panasonic's warranty?

Do you mind to keep us posted on the response from the Head Office in Japan?
post #1675 of 3195
Hi,

I purchased the unit from an Ebay seller and I noted that it was shipped from a refurbishment/re-manufacturing centre in USA. So, I feel "uncomfortable" about whether my PT8000 was new or re-conditioned. It was sold as new. Canada and USA customer support had to be chased up by me when I furnished the serial number and eventually both denied that the unit had been through their hands! The projector had two informal looking warranties inside the box, one for Canada and the other for USA (the plot thickens). I am now concerned over returning it to the seller for "warranty return", as the unit may then be returned to a sub-standard refurbishing firm. Hence, am now having to send an airmail letter to Japan to enquire of the "manufacturing and distribution trace" of the unit in order to establish its true fate and whether I have got a genuine warranty in the first place and fair rights.
post #1676 of 3195
Yes, will keep you in the loop
post #1677 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post

Sorry to hear that your experience with Panasonic's customer service hasn't been that great. Just for my own education/understanding, the purchased that you made at eBay (refurbishing center) was covered by Panasonic's warranty?

Do you mind to keep us posted on the response from the Head Office in Japan?

Hi,

I purchased the unit from an Ebay seller and I noted that it was shipped from a refurbishment/re-manufacturing centre in USA. So, I feel "uncomfortable" about whether my PT8000 was new or re-conditioned. It was sold as new. Canada and USA customer support had to be chased up by me when I furnished the serial number and eventually both denied that the unit had been through their hands! The projector had two informal looking warranties inside the box, one for Canada and the other for USA (the plot thickens). I am now concerned over returning it to the seller for "warranty return", as the unit may then be returned to a sub-standard refurbishing firm. Hence, am now having to send an airmail letter to Japan to enquire of the "manufacturing and distribution trace" of the unit in order to establish its true fate and whether I have got a genuine warranty in the first place and fair rights. Will keep you posted. Sorry am not yet used to this site and how to use the posts and threads!
post #1678 of 3195
Hi,

I purchased the unit from an Ebay seller and I noted that it was shipped from a refurbishment/re-manufacturing centre in USA. So, I feel "uncomfortable" about whether my PT8000 was new or re-conditioned. It was sold as new. Canada and USA customer support had to be chased up by me when I furnished the serial number and eventually both denied that the unit had been through their hands! The projector had two informal looking warranties inside the box, one for Canada and the other for USA (the plot thickens). I am now concerned over returning it to the seller for "warranty return", as the unit may then be returned to a sub-standard refurbishing firm. Hence, am now having to send an airmail letter to Japan to enquire of the "manufacturing and distribution trace" of the unit in order to establish its true fate and whether I have got a genuine warranty in the first place and fair rights.
post #1679 of 3195
need some help... just got an 8000. I am having issues with getting the 3d to display. I have it hooked to a oppo 93 with the video feeding straight to the projector and the audio going to an onkyo 3007 as it is not 3d compatible. if i set the oppo to auto 3d when i load a 3d disc like Dredd with both versions on one disc it will play the previews in 3d if i go to the 8000s menu and hit 2d to 3d for each preview however i will have to hit the button as it will go back to 2d when it goes to the next preview chapter. when it gets to the movie i cannot select the 3d version as it is not an option on the screen. If I set the oppo to forced 3d it will do the same things during the preview on off etc however when i get to the menu and hit play it gives me the option of 3d when i d=select it the screen goes black then turns to a blue screen. When i look at the player it is counting forward but there is no audio and the receiver says there is no signal (audio since video is going straight to the receiver.) When i put in wreck it Ralph which is a stand alone 3d blu ray with auto selected on the oppo 93 it tells me that the disc wont play because the player is not hooked up to a 3d compatible monitor. if i select forced output on the oppo then it will show the language screen which i can view in 3d. It will then go to the disney fireworks screen reverting to 2d. I can select 3d and it will display the fireworks in 3d. the screen then goes black to load the movie and I get the blue screen again ( reminds me of the big blue screen of death from windows years ago) the player locks up and i have to hit eject to get it to free up. I have been messing with it and searching the forums for hours and cant get it to work. I had the keystone to -1 and thought that might be an issue so i set it to 0 as i read somewhere that using the keystone causes and issue for viewing 3d. Any thoughts or answers would be greatly appreciated. I am using the 3rd generation glasses made by panasonic that came with the projector as part of the package that was offered by projector people. Thanks in advance for any help that you can give me
post #1680 of 3195
Quote:
Originally Posted by meatling View Post

need some help... just got an 8000. I am having issues with getting the 3d to display. I have it hooked to a oppo 93 with the video feeding straight to the projector and the audio going to an onkyo 3007 as it is not 3d compatible. if i set the oppo to auto 3d when i load a 3d disc like Dredd with both versions on one disc it will play the previews in 3d if i go to the 8000s menu and hit 2d to 3d for each preview however i will have to hit the button as it will go back to 2d when it goes to the next preview chapter. when it gets to the movie i cannot select the 3d version as it is not an option on the screen. If I set the oppo to forced 3d it will do the same things during the preview on off etc however when i get to the menu and hit play it gives me the option of 3d when i d=select it the screen goes black then turns to a blue screen. When i look at the player it is counting forward but there is no audio and the receiver says there is no signal (audio since video is going straight to the receiver.) When i put in wreck it Ralph which is a stand alone 3d blu ray with auto selected on the oppo 93 it tells me that the disc wont play because the player is not hooked up to a 3d compatible monitor. if i select forced output on the oppo then it will show the language screen which i can view in 3d. It will then go to the disney fireworks screen reverting to 2d. I can select 3d and it will display the fireworks in 3d. the screen then goes black to load the movie and I get the blue screen again ( reminds me of the big blue screen of death from windows years ago) the player locks up and i have to hit eject to get it to free up. I have been messing with it and searching the forums for hours and cant get it to work. I had the keystone to -1 and thought that might be an issue so i set it to 0 as i read somewhere that using the keystone causes and issue for viewing 3d. Any thoughts or answers would be greatly appreciated. I am using the 3rd generation glasses made by panasonic that came with the projector as part of the package that was offered by projector people. Thanks in advance for any help that you can give me
You may be better off asking about the 93's primary/secondary video settings and how they affect 3D in the 93's owner's thread. I used to have the 93, but can't remember the settings, but it was important that you correctly designate which of the HDMI outputs is the primary. I believe the choices for primary output were: HDMI 1, HDMI 2 or Component. Since your AVR doesn't support 3D, you probably need to set your video output to primary and the output providing audio to the AVR would be other one. I'd recommend making HDMI 1 your primary and run it direct to the 8000 and then run HDMI 2 to your AVR for HD audio.
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