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Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 74

post #2191 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

About ready to pull the plug on the ae8000 from either Projector People or AGI. Anyone have insight on either of these companies as far as quality of units they ship and customer service are concerned?

Projector People were brilliant, and took care of my issues very well when I had them with the 8000. I'd go with them.
post #2192 of 3236
Good to know So i've changed up my screen. Was going to a CIH screen but now I tossed the CIH out of the window so I can get the biggest screen for 16:9 and 2:35 so I painted the entire wall. Will the ae8000 still be able to automatically adjust to the different height now of the 16:9 material?
post #2193 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by inefekt View Post

Source material certainly plays a big part in terms of 3d quality and especially crosstalk, read any bluray 3d review and the reviewer will always mention it, so if a movie is plagued with crosstalk issues (Day of the Dead!!!) no projector is going to play that movie without it....though the severity will vary of course

Maybe I misunderstood what you have written but whilst some 3d may be prone to show crosstalk on certain displays the presence of crosstalk is display related, not source related.

Before you say no projector will be able to play any film without crosstalk you may want to check out a dlp. I have only managed to get crosstalk that I can see when rewinding once with the benq w7000 (the other times it has been me seeing a reflection or similiar and thinking at first it was crosstalk (but wasn't)).

Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Good to know So i've changed up my screen. Was going to a CIH screen but now I tossed the CIH out of the window so I can get the biggest screen for 16:9 and 2:35 so I painted the entire wall. Will the ae8000 still be able to automatically adjust to the different height now of the 16:9 material?

I'm not entirely sure I know what you mean. You can set it to change to whatever kind of zoom and focus it is able to do and program it so it will automatically switch between whatever those two settings are for 2.35:1 and 1.78:1.
post #2194 of 3236
Ok so I can have it shift to a different height and width from a 2:35 screen no problem and program it in the lens memory from the remote?

My 2:35 screen will be 45" high by 106" wide. the 16:9 screen will be about 50" high and 89" wide. So no CIH.
post #2195 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Ok so I can have it shift to a different height and width from a 2:35 screen no problem and program it in the lens memory from the remote?

My 2:35 screen will be 45" high by 106" wide. the 16:9 screen will be about 50" high and 89" wide. So no CIH.

That shouldn't be an issue at all.
post #2196 of 3236
Check out Day of the Dead and you'll quickly change your mind.
I had a DLP projector prior to purchasing the 7000 and I definitely remember seeing crosstalk on that, especially on subtitles (not to mention a washed out picture and more rainbows than you'll see at a pride parade)
post #2197 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by inefekt View Post

Check out Day of the Dead and you'll quickly change your mind.
I had a DLP projector prior to purchasing the 7000 and I definitely remember seeing crosstalk on that, especially on subtitles (not to mention a washed out picture and more rainbows than you'll see at a pride parade)

Had a quick look at the film, if I could stream it with my quicflix sub in 3d I would check it out alas I cannot. The only way to check it out would to pay extra money on a blind buy it would seem which I just cannot justify doing. It is odd that it would show a lot of crosstalk on even a dlp as 3d films are made for cinemas that use dlp projectors (albeit three chip not one like most consumer dlp's) so if not even a dlp can display it without minimal crosstalk then the film makers probably should have been more cognizant of what would be a major headache there film was going to be. I would have to see it for myself though as the only way I can get crosstalk on dlp's I have seen is to put white on black (and even then it isn't always there). I know this may sound contradictory to what I said above but is it possible they encoded the disc incorrectly or something about how they shoot it is causing an effect that looks like crosstalk but is in fact another anomalies?


As for the ae8000, I am still perplexed. Some of the more difficult scenes get some minor crosstalk with the current unit I have access to but significantly less then what I see at cinemas. I really don't know what to make of this as I have now tested scenes that I know where just riddled with crosstalk on other units.

Ignoring the 2d aspects, does anyone know what the difference in brightness in 3d of the ae8000 and the jvc x35 assuming good color accuracy is? Is the jvc notably dimmer or? (and yes I know the jvc beats the Panasonic in 2d and have seen this many times, however I have only briefly seen the x35 in 3d and to long ago to remember any specifics).
post #2198 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

Projector People were brilliant, and took care of my issues very well when I had them with the 8000. I'd go with them.

+1

Purchasing my AE8000 was really easy, they accommodate to a special request and everything was handled pretty well.
post #2199 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

Projector People were brilliant, and took care of my issues very well when I had them with the 8000. I'd go with them.
I've only used PP and they've been great. So you won't go wrong with PP.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Good to know So i've changed up my screen. Was going to a CIH screen but now I tossed the CIH out of the window so I can get the biggest screen for 16:9 and 2:35 so I painted the entire wall. Will the ae8000 still be able to automatically adjust to the different height now of the 16:9 material?
I have a post several pages back on the masking issue when moving a 2.35:1 image to the bottom (or top) of a 16:9 screen in that you don't get full masking. So just keep that in mind in how you'll set up WHERE your 2.35:1 screen will go (If I'm understanding you correctly). It won't be an issue if you're not going to use masking.
post #2200 of 3236
Do you need powered lens shift as well to do the 16:9/2:35 changes from the remote?

Also do you have to point the remote at the projector?
post #2201 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Do you need powered lens shift as well to do the 16:9/2:35 changes from the remote?

Also do you have to point the remote at the projector?


Could you draw up how your two screens are going to be on the wall (with measurments) and then we can tell you accurately whether it is possible.

AS for the remote, it should bounce of the screen/wall just fine. Just point it like the screen is your tv.
post #2202 of 3236

Not only does the source material make a big difference in 3D, but your glasses play a huge part as well. So just to throw in another random topic for this thread: I have now tried three different sets of 3D glasses. All non-Panasonic (as they are out of stock most places). Ironically the $11 pair I got are the only ones that work. But they are super dark. Here are the sets. The other two would supposedly sync, but were absolutely unusable. It's possible I need that IR adapter thingy but I'm not dropping another $40-$50 on 3D gear at this point.

 

So these work great with the 8000. They are now going for $50 each!! I paid $33 for two pair with shipping! I bet with the panny shortage the seller is now jacking up the prices. awful.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PC6U7O/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

And the following two I couldn't get to sync. Played with nearly all settings on the projector, nothing worked.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085JBI6S/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

This pair was supposedly compatible with the TY-EW3D3MU, which are supposedly compatible with the 8000u, but again, I couldn't get them to sync properly. they are "g5"

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0099REA24/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

What are the best glasses for the system you guys have found? Should I just wait for the panny's to be available again? how are they for brightness and weight?

post #2203 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by fstopdigital View Post

Not only does the source material make a big difference in 3D, but your glasses play a huge part as well. So just to throw in another random topic for this thread: I have now tried three different sets of 3D glasses. All non-Panasonic (as they are out of stock most places). Ironically the $11 pair I got are the only ones that work. But they are super dark. Here are the sets. The other two would supposedly sync, but were absolutely unusable. It's possible I need that IR adapter thingy but I'm not dropping another $40-$50 on 3D gear at this point.

So these work great with the 8000. They are now going for $50 each!! I paid $33 for two pair with shipping! I bet with the panny shortage the seller is now jacking up the prices. awful.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006PC6U7O/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the following two I couldn't get to sync. Played with nearly all settings on the projector, nothing worked.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085JBI6S/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


This pair was supposedly compatible with the TY-EW3D3MU, which are supposedly compatible with the 8000u, but again, I couldn't get them to sync properly. they are "g5"

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0099REA24/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


What are the best glasses for the system you guys have found? Should I just wait for the panny's to be available again? how are they for brightness and weight?

Before I received my 2 pair of Panny 3D glasses, I used a pair of the Sony PS3 3D glasses that I had at home and to my surprise they worked pretty well with the 8000. Yes, they are bulkier and not good looking as the Panny, but heck...........they just work fine wink.gif


http://www.amazon.com/PlayStation-3-3D-Glasses/dp/B00562O8U0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382116710&sr=8-1&keywords=ps3+3d+glasses
post #2204 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by fstopdigital View Post

What are the best glasses for the system you guys have found? Should I just wait for the panny's to be available again? how are they for brightness and weight?

I would wait for the panny glasses to be back in stock. By far the most comfortable 3d glasses I have used and as one would expect they work extremely well with the ae8000.
post #2205 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by cr136124 View Post

I used a pair of the Sony PS3 3D glasses that I had at home and to my surprise they worked pretty well with the 8000. Yes, they are bulkier and not good looking as the Panny, but heck...........they just work fine wink.gif

I agree...I have three pairs of PS3 glasses and 4 pairs of Panny glasses and I go for the PS3 when it is just the wife and me. I always let guests pick first and I end up wearing the Panny glasses during our big movie nights. smile.gif
post #2206 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Do you need powered lens shift as well to do the 16:9/2:35 changes from the remote?

Also do you have to point the remote at the projector?
I just use the built-in lens control. It does what I need because the screen is 16:9 and I "shift" the non-16:9 within the 16:9 area. The physical lens shift is really only meant for you to shift the ENTIRE image into place for your screen/projector placement and then lock it.

The remote will bounce off the screen/wall so you just point it and use it normally. My projector sits behind me and even with the screen up the signal still bounces off the stuff behind it like the wall, the tv, etc. and it works.
post #2207 of 3236
Hi all.

I am a bit conflicted about the projector + screen I want to get. I'm pretty much have the projector choices down to Panasonic AE8000 and the new Epson 5030. Price is not the real factor here, they are close enough to make it less of an issue.

I love Panasonic's ability to automatically zoom the image based on content. Can anyone who has this feature let me know how well it works? Is it useful or more of a gimmik that doesn't work all the time?

I can get a very nice Grandview tab-tensioned 140" 2.35:1 screen for a price cheaper than a fairly comparable 133" tab-tensioned screen, believe it or not... The only downsize is that 16:9 content will be 112", but I don't think it's such a bad size, since I sit only 4 meters (13 feet) from the screen. I will mostly be watching 2D content, but not only widescreen movies - some good TV shows like Breaking Bad (definetley going to rewatch the whole show once I get the projector) and Homeland, plus musical performances and 16:9 movies.

I rarely watch sports, except for the Mondeal that will come soon. I also don't watch any 3D right now (no set that supports it) but I might use it if it's a very good implementation. I hated all 3D movies in the theater except for The Hobbit in High Frame Rate. My mind simply cannot stand judder. If the frame interpolation is close enough to Hobbit level, I'm sold. I own a PS3 and an XBOX which I occasionally use for games (although I'm not a hardcore gamer by any means), and I understand the lag on the panasonic is much better than Epson's. what happens with IMAX movies like The Dark Knight, where the it switches between 16:9 and 2.35 in the middle of the movie? Isn't it too much of a pain to deal with?



On the other hand, the Epson is newer. I understand it has a better contrast, black levels, and the panels being used don't suffer as much from various convergence issues. Since there's no support for 2.35:1, I'll project to a 133"screen, making widescreen movies into 128" diagonal. I am not sure if 133" is the right size for 4 meters away, some like it that big (or even bigger), others do not. In a theater, I usually sit at the 5th of 6th row of a big theater, so I do like a big image. Another huge Epson advantage is the massive horizontal lens shift, making it possible for me to place it on a side cabinet I have in the kitchen (great WAF!). The panny will not work in that location - I'll need to mount it to the ceiling in the middle of our living room which looks bad. Epson has a rather good new 3D frame interpolation system (from what I read) - a must for me, which is why i didn't even consider the 5020.

Would appreciate your thoughts. I wonder if CIH setup will be too weird for a living room when watching non-movie material. I have a 50" plasma for most casual content, but for the rest of the 16:9 material I will use the projector.I have an idea for DIY masking on the left and right - using completely black curtains which will be aligned perfectly with the left and right areas of the screen when needed. When not in use I'll pull them up and they'll disappear into a drywall beam I'll place in front of all the setup.


Thank you for your thoughts.
post #2208 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by laugsbach View Post

I agree...I have three pairs of PS3 glasses and 4 pairs of Panny glasses and I go for the PS3 when it is just the wife and me. I always let guests pick first and I end up wearing the Panny glasses during our big movie nights. smile.gif

On the bright side the bulkier body of the PS3 glasses helps a bit more to block your side view, so you can concentrate on the screen image and not on what your guests are doing...........tongue.gif

Hey, have you tried Pacific Rim 3D? Pretty cool effects all around...........biggrin.gif
post #2209 of 3236
I watched Pacific Rim 3D last week on my 7000, it's really an awesome spectacle in 3D. Probably the 2nd best 3D experience I've had, behind Avatar of course.
post #2210 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by AYColumbia View Post

I just use the built-in lens control. It does what I need because the screen is 16:9 and I "shift" the non-16:9 within the 16:9 area. The physical lens shift is really only meant for you to shift the ENTIRE image into place for your screen/projector placement and then lock it.

The remote will bounce off the screen/wall so you just point it and use it normally. My projector sits behind me and even with the screen up the signal still bounces off the stuff behind it like the wall, the tv, etc. and it works.

Interesting. Since I probably won't be doing the CIH route I wonder if I will NEED power lens shift as well. Actually i'm doing a variation of CIH, just the bottom I want to stay put and the top raise and lower based on 16:9 or 2:35. Any thoughts?
post #2211 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Interesting. Since I probably won't be doing the CIH route I wonder if I will NEED power lens shift as well. Actually i'm doing a variation of CIH, just the bottom I want to stay put and the top raise and lower based on 16:9 or 2:35. Any thoughts?

As has been posted earlier in the thread:

#1: Up/Down lens shift position is dictated by the 1.78:1 image

#2: Left/Right lens shift is dictated by the 2.35:1 image
post #2212 of 3236
Yes I know that. What i'm asking is will the panny power lens zoom and focus be enough to change the height and width of the picture or will i need to use lens shift as well?
post #2213 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Yes I know that. What i'm asking is will the panny power lens zoom and focus be enough to change the height and width of the picture or will i need to use lens shift as well?

It depends on the exact placement of the two screens and throw distance, if you give me that I can test it out for you if you would like (assuming that your throw distance isn't more then 4.5 meters as that is the longest I can do).

May I ask why you are not going with a CIH setup? (just curious it all comes down to personal preference but your setup sounds rather interesting and different to what I have seen).
post #2214 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Yes I know that. What i'm asking is will the panny power lens zoom and focus be enough to change the height and width of the picture or will i need to use lens shift as well?

If you have your projector set up properly, you will be able to shift the 2.35 image of the second screen down to where it matches the bottom of the first screen. Another way of explaining it. The 2.35 image of the 2nd screen, can be placed so that the top of the image matches the top of the 16:9 image on the first screen or anywhere in between the top and bottom. This limitation is because Panny is not actually using lens shift. They are shifting the 2.35 image on the 16:9 chip, so this limits you to being able to only move the image the height of the black bars. Back when they came up with this, it was a great idea and allowed a feature to be implemented in a projector that normally requires powered lens control features, but it is more limited with setup compared to a projector with true lens memory.
Edited by AV Science Sales 5 - 10/19/13 at 5:23am
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post #2215 of 3236
If you use the max Y-position (bottom or top) within the native 16:9 area when watching 2.35 content, the problem I think becomes the black overflow is then uneven (hence you turn 2 black bars into one large black bar and get an uneven black overflow). That is the only issue, so if setting up masking, it might look funny, and if not setting up masking, it might still look funny. I would go with the JVC instead, you'll have more options.
post #2216 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post

It depends on the exact placement of the two screens and throw distance, if you give me that I can test it out for you if you would like (assuming that your throw distance isn't more then 4.5 meters as that is the longest I can do).

May I ask why you are not going with a CIH setup? (just curious it all comes down to personal preference but your setup sounds rather interesting and different to what I have seen).

Not two different screens just two different images on the same painted wall. My throw distance is 15' 6". Still wouldn't mind a test at your max throw distance if you don't mind sir.
post #2217 of 3236
Does anyone know the purpose of using the lens "masking" of the top/bottom or left/right of the image? I thought it would basically make CIH irrelevant by simply blocking out the black letterbox bars when displaying anything wider than 16x9 (which are annoying because they're light enough to be noticeable at least sometimes), but actually it doesn't do that. So even when you use the lens masking (I think that's what it's called) you can still see the projected letterbox black bars. I guess you would need a physical masking mechanism (e.g. in front of the lens) to completely block out the letterbox bars. Too bad, it would awesome if it really worked as I hoped it would.
post #2218 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by impetigo View Post

Does anyone know the purpose of using the lens "masking" of the top/bottom or left/right of the image? I thought it would basically make CIH irrelevant by simply blocking out the black letterbox bars when displaying anything wider than 16x9 (which are annoying because they're light enough to be noticeable at least sometimes), but actually it doesn't do that. So even when you use the lens masking (I think that's what it's called) you can still see the projected letterbox black bars. I guess you would need a physical masking mechanism (e.g. in front of the lens) to completely block out the letterbox bars. Too bad, it would awesome if it really worked as I hoped it would.

That it would. What it is good for though is if you have something reflective below the screen but not above it you can shift the image so this isn't an issue. But what you wanted would indeed be amazing. smile.gif
post #2219 of 3236
Any word or news for the next model?
post #2220 of 3236
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyG512 View Post

Any word or news for the next model?

My understanding is there is not currently known replacement for the ae8000 and it will be panasonics lead home theater projector for the next year or so.
Edited by FilmReverie - 10/20/13 at 6:48am
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