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Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 76

post #2251 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

If it is not the same distance, then it will not be in focus.

So it will have that "dreamy" effect cool.gif
post #2252 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Does the 8000 need to be perfectly centered to the screen for the CIH to work properly when changing between ratios? Would roughly 4.5" of center horizontally be ok?
Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post

The ae8000 doesn't need to be perfectly center. As long as you don't need lens shift between the two aspect ratios any lens shift position it is capable of will work just fine with the shifting aspect ratios.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Perfectly centered, no. But you will want to test to make sure it works within your throw distance, screen size, etc. The center of my lens is about 2" above the top of my screen and a hair off center left to right. Once I got it centered with the joystick in 16:9, I used the v-area position and zoom to get the 2.35:1 correct. Save each setting, turn on the auto detect and BAM! Works like a charm.
Mine is about an inch above the top of the screen and a inch to the left of center. That is where the pain in the butt joy stick comes in. If I had it to do over his is the order I would do it in.

This only applies if you are ceiling mounted and have a Constant Image Area screen. My screen is a DYI frame stretched on a custom Seymour Center Stage XD materiel and is about 2.1 ratio 126" wide and 65" tall giving me a 2.35:1 of 126"X53" 136" diagonal and a 16x9 of 115"x65" 132" diagonal. (check my signature for screen build) When I turned on the projector the image was projected into my coffered ceiling. I did not realize that zooming to a larger screen actually lowered the image so I started messing with the joy stick big mistake. Here is what to do.

Edit 29 Oct I lowered my screen an inch and a half and followed the above procedure. Once you get the hang of the joystick this really works out great. So if you have a Constant Image Area or constant Image height screen this will work for you.

1. Power on for first time image will be projected high
2. Zoom until the image is on screen and is near the size that your screen is top to bottom. It may still be too high.
3. Focus on that size just enough so you can flip the image for ceiling mounting in the menu or learn how to read upside down your choice.
4. Put in your 16x9 source and start playing. Get into the movie not the trailers or menu of the disk.
5. Now loosen the joystick but not too much and center the image top to bottom. You will need to zoom in or out as you use the joy stick until you get it perfect.
6. Focus
7. Tighten the joy stick but not real tight.
8. This is where I could see I needed to fine tune the level on my Peerless Universal mount as the image was tilted down left to right about 3/4 “. Not bad for 115” wide image. After you adjust the level you may need to do step 5 thru 7 again until you are perfect.
8. Save this as 16x9 in the menu.
9. Put in a Scope source I used 2.40:1 get to the movie not the trailers or the menu.
10. Zoom out until you are close to filling the screen you will see more space on one side then the other if your projector is not centered like mine. I zoomed until one edge was just off the screen and the other was about an inch still inside the screen. Also as you zoom out the image drops as it gets larger as stated earlier.
11. As careful as you can because you do not want to screw up your height adjustment from earlier loosen the joy stick but keep it rather snug and move the image the direction you need to be. You will need to zoom in and out and play with the joy stick left to right until it is perfect.
12. Focus and save as 2.40:1
13. You can go into the menu and move your horizontal position on the screen up or down until you get the image where you want it. I wanted my image closer to the center so I moved it back up a little. You will have to resave the image.
14. Go into the menu and turn on the automatic detection of format.
15. Put the 16x9 source back in the projector. With any luck when the image resizes automatically your top and bottom will be as set in step 5. If not it is because of the stupid joy stick was nudged up or down when you did your left to right adjustment. I would repeat steps 5-8 until you get it perfect just be careful not to push joystick left to right when adjusting up and down. Resave this as 16x9. I am not certain but you may be able to adjust using the horizontal shift like step 13 instead of messing with the joy stick again.
16 If you made any changes via the joy stick you will have to resave this as 16x9 and then put the 2.40:1 image back in to insure you did not mess up the left to right again. If so repeat steps 11 thru 15 until you are satisfied it is centered left to right in scope and top to bottom in 16x9. If you made changes here you will have to repeat step 15 until both sources are where you want them.

Edit 29 Oct I lowered my screen an inch and a half and followed the above procedure. Once you get the hang of the joystick this really works out great. So if you have a Constant Image Area or constant Image height screen this will work for you.

From the photos it looks like the image is not square but that is not the case I guess that is what you get using a cell phone camera.


from my seat about 11 feet from screen


Edit 29 Oct I lowered my screen an inch and a half and followed the above procedure. Once you get the hang of the joystick this really works out great. So if you have a Constant Image Area or constant Image height screen this will work for you.
Edited by cw5billwade - 10/29/13 at 7:15am
post #2253 of 3227
Did anyone else have this problem that I posted about earlier...

Has anyone had the problem with their projector where you start it up it shows the blue screen quickly then goes to a black screen? I notice when it does this the status light isn't green and it isn't red. It is almost a yellowish color. When you try to turn it off with the remote the light will flash a few times then you hear the fan speed up and get loud. The last time it did this it kind of reset itself then worked just fine. Yesterday I had to shut off my receiver then the projector started working again. I wonder if it is some kind of weird handshake issue with my receiver (Pioneer 1222-k)? I have noticed lately that when I power the projector on it automatically powers up the receiver. I do have a darbee plugged in also so I wonder if that has anything to do with it?
post #2254 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

Yes, when you notice the black bars, turning off the DI will make no difference because the DI is open already! smile.gif

So there's no way to have DI closed during an entire movie (like turning off DI before starting a movie)? I'm just wondering what causes the black bars to be visable at some times and not others -- is it projector-based (e.g. the DI, the relative brightness of a scene, etc.) or source/media-based (e.g. it would be noticeable on similar projectors). And if it's projector-based, if anything could be done to prevent it. Probably not, but if possible that would be amazing because then the black bars would be completely irrelevant (due to not being visible).
post #2255 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by jowens View Post

Did anyone else have this problem that I posted about earlier...

Has anyone had the problem with their projector where you start it up it shows the blue screen quickly then goes to a black screen? I notice when it does this the status light isn't green and it isn't red. It is almost a yellowish color. When you try to turn it off with the remote the light will flash a few times then you hear the fan speed up and get loud. The last time it did this it kind of reset itself then worked just fine. Yesterday I had to shut off my receiver then the projector started working again. I wonder if it is some kind of weird handshake issue with my receiver (Pioneer 1222-k)? I have noticed lately that when I power the projector on it automatically powers up the receiver. I do have a darbee plugged in also so I wonder if that has anything to do with it?

Not exactly, but I have sometimes had the start up screen flash on an off repeatedly (and endlessly), which seemed to be due to the input source not being active, although it only happened rarely in those situations. Never figured out what the cause was as I returned the projector (due to the whining noise) and ordered another one...
post #2256 of 3227

   Totally off topic, but I thought this could be interesting to some. Finally got my official panasonic 3d glasses. They are definitely the best I've tried yet. Just in weight alone but the sync is great too. I also appreciate the 2D feature. So I decided to eat the $40 charge and bought the nvidia 3DTV play software. Basically it enables 3D vision for non "nVidia 3DVision" branded displays, using your own glasses. Robbery, but they have the monopoly so there's not much you can do. 

 

As I have a HTPC hooked up anyway thought I'd give it a go. It's pretty incredible. Games like Dirt 3, Devil May Cry, Tombraider and Arkham City are amazing. Best 3D effect I've seen in ANY content on this projector so far. It definitely helps having a nice graphics card (GTX 680) and computer but to any gamers thinking about this projector, or the $40 upgrade, it's totally worth it. Some games are better than others, but it really blows away even the PS3 and many blu ray discs in terms of zero crosstalk or ghosting. Which makes me believe more and more, that any 3D issues with this projector lie with content and signal chain as opposed to any inherent 3D flaws in the hardware. I played 3 hours of 3d games with no issues and incredible depth / perfect convergence. Of course my brain hurt afterwards...

post #2257 of 3227
CW5 thanks for that in depth response. My only concern however is I need/want to keep the bottom of the image in the same spot no matter the aspect ratio. Would I be able to accomplish this without a motorized lens shift when it changes aspect ratios?

"Because the image "shifts" vertically, I mentioned lens shift. Adjusting lens shift would fix that, but the Panasonic PT-AE8000 doesn't have motorized lens shift. Instead, it lets you digitally move the movie's image up and down so it fills the screen vertically, perfectly. That digital shift is also saved in the Lens Memory."

Taken from Projectorreviews.com.

What does this mean?
post #2258 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

CW5 thanks for that in depth response. My only concern however is I need/want to keep the bottom of the image in the same spot no matter the aspect ratio. Would I be able to accomplish this without a motorized lens shift when it changes aspect ratios?

"Because the image "shifts" vertically, I mentioned lens shift. Adjusting lens shift would fix that, but the Panasonic PT-AE8000 doesn't have motorized lens shift. Instead, it lets you digitally move the movie's image up and down so it fills the screen vertically, perfectly. That digital shift is also saved in the Lens Memory."

Taken from Projectorreviews.com.

What does this mean?

So the base of the scope and 1.78:1 image is at the same height. The ae8000 can do that as you can move the position of the 2.35:1 image in the 16:9 frame up and down so there are no black bars below the image and both black areas are above and vice versa. This can be all programmed to be done automatically.

It does sound like you have overcomplicated how the projector works as it really is quite simple (I do understand why that is though as a projector purchase is something you most certainly want done right).
post #2259 of 3227
Oh yes it's the most expensive single buy by far and will want it to last a long time. My brother calls me nuts for considering the extra $500 for the JVC x35 over this.
post #2260 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Oh yes it's the most expensive single buy by far and will want it to last a long time. My brother calls me nuts for considering the extra $500 for the JVC x35 over this.

I can't comment much on the JVC zoom as I have only used the JVC and never had to set it up. One downside to the JVC is you have to manually load up the different lens memory with your remote whereas the Panasonic can do that automatically. Otherwise if your priority is 2d films I would be inclined to go with the JVC.

With that being said I really think the idea of two screens isn't a very good one and think you would be better of getting the Panasonic if need be and getting a nice screen (or if budget allows the jvc and a nice screen), afterall whilst you will upgrade your projector one day a quality screen will not need to be replaced for a very long time. May I ask what had you decide on going with two screens?
Edited by FilmReverie - 10/23/13 at 2:19am
post #2261 of 3227
2D is the ONLY priority. ;P

What do you mean you have to manually load up the different lens memory with the remote? Are you referring to the Panny being able to detect the ratio of the disc and load it automatically?

Not two screens, just painting the entire wall and masking the sides and top accordingly to the different sizes so I'm not constricted to any one height and/or width. The paint didn't cost me too much so I will see how it looks and works and if I like it keep it and build the masking. If not then I will just do the CIH route.
post #2262 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

2D is the ONLY priority. ;P

What do you mean you have to manually load up the different lens memory with the remote? Are you referring to the Panny being able to detect the ratio of the disc and load it automatically?

Not two screens, just painting the entire wall and masking the sides and top accordingly to the different sizes so I'm not constricted to any one height and/or width. The paint didn't cost me too much so I will see how it looks and works and if I like it keep it and build the masking. If not then I will just do the CIH route.


Yes the Panasonic can detect the aspect ratio and automatically change between the options you have set. The JVC on the other hand does not do this and you need to do this yourself with a remote. It isn't a massive issue, but it is one thing I really like about the Panasonic. Can I ask what color is your roof and room going to be where the projector is, as if it isn't dark (and of course light controlled) then the difference between the Panasonic and JVC will be much less noticeable.

I think a better option would be to have one nice CIH fixed screen more or less at a SMTPE reference size and one cheaper but large pull down screens for when you want that imax experience. One you get your projector you can figure it out for yourself though. smile.gif Honestly though at 10 feet you are looking at a 100" scope screen which for me any larger would likely become uncomfortable. A 100" scope screen will also provide for around an 80" 1.78:1 image which once again from 10 feet is extremely nice. Just remember you can go to big and at first it will be amazing but soon enough the effect of it being large will ware of. You want to go as large as you can that is also comfortable. With a scope screen SMPTE recommends three screen heights away, and whilst you can sit a little closer I don't think many in the long run would want to sit to much closer.

I also wouldn't dismiss 3d entirely (unless of course your one of the small percentage of people who cannot perceive it), even if you don't use it often it is very nice to have. For example I can't imagine wanting to watch a film that completely embraces 3d like Hugo in 2d (I started watching it in 2d once and quickly changed to 3d). My point is that every good new projector comes with 3d capabilities, so it is worth while considering. I personally don't have enough experience with the JVC in 3d to comment on which one is better in this regard though I imagine the Panasonic would be.


In any case I can't stress enough that I am almost certain you will be happy with either projector as many will recommend one over the other but they are both fantastic projectors and both have a plethora of excellent features.
Edited by FilmReverie - 10/23/13 at 2:35am
post #2263 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

CW5 thanks for that in depth response. My only concern however is I need/want to keep the bottom of the image in the same spot no matter the aspect ratio. Would I be able to accomplish this without a motorized lens shift when it changes aspect ratios?
Like I said as you zoom from 16x9 to scope as the image gets larger it also gets closer to the bottom than the top
"Because the image "shifts" vertically, I mentioned lens shift. Adjusting lens shift would fix that, but the Panasonic PT-AE8000 doesn't have motorized lens shift. Instead, it lets you digitally move the movie's image up and down so it fills the screen vertically, perfectly. That digital shift is also saved in the Lens Memory."
Once you get your left to right set for the scope than you set your focus and use the horizontal shift to lower it the rest of the way to the bottom of screen like FilmReverie said. then you save that as 2.40:1 and you are set. the AE8000 will remember this and change to it whenever a scope film is put in the player
Taken from Projectorreviews.com.

What does this mean?
post #2264 of 3227
The walls and ceiling are a very dark gray with flat paint. And yes the room is 100% light controlled as well. Black carpet as well.
post #2265 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

The walls and ceiling are a very dark gray with flat paint. And yes the room is 100% light controlled as well. Black carpet as well.

Then I would be more inclined to go with the JVC.
post #2266 of 3227
Has anybody tried stacking two projectors? Or... anybody using a 14' wide 2.35 AT screen?
post #2267 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by 316 View Post

Has anybody tried stacking two projectors? Or... anybody using a 14' wide 2.35 AT screen?

I have not, but this projector when stacked isn't going to be enough for such a big screen. I don't think you will find a projector under $5000 that isn't to dim for such a large screen. May I ask why you are after such a large screen (I assume a really large room) or is their something I am missing. For such a large screen you would be wanting to sit I believe 6 meters away as well. Why not just move your seats closer and go with a smaller screen? You will have a better image that is still very large and it can still be the same relative screen size.

I guess one possible solution would be to have an extremely high gain screen, but i'm not sure if even that would be enough.

Also stacking a projector that will inevitably have some misconvergence to me doesn't seem like a particularly good idea, but then again I haven't tried it so I can only speculate.
post #2268 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post


I have not, but this projector when stacked isn't going to be enough for such a big screen. I don't think you will find a projector under $5000 that isn't to dim for such a large screen. May I ask why you are after such a large screen (I assume a really large room) or is their something I am missing. For such a large screen you would be wanting to sit I believe 6 meters away as well. Why not just move your seats closer and go with a smaller screen? You will have a better image that is still very large and it can still be the same relative screen size.

I guess one possible solution would be to have an extremely high gain screen, but i'm not sure if even that would be enough.

Also stacking a projector that will inevitably have some misconvergence to me doesn't seem like a particularly good idea, but then again I haven't tried it so I can only speculate.


Actually the new epsons shown at CEDIA throw some crazy lumens. The PowerLite Pro Cinema 4855WU shoots 4000 lumens for under $4,000, could probably light up a 14' screen pretty well. Or the one above that does 5,200L for around $6k

post #2269 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by fstopdigital View Post


Actually the new epsons shown at CEDIA throw some crazy lumens. The PowerLite Pro Cinema 4855WU shoots 4000 lumens for under $4,000, could probably light up a 14' screen pretty well. Or the one above that does 5,200L for around $6k

Very interesting. I assume this was uncalibrated though. Much like the ae8000 losses a massive amount of brightness if you want respectable color reproduction.


If it is that bright when calibrated then
post #2270 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post

I have not, but this projector when stacked isn't going to be enough for such a big screen. I don't think you will find a projector under $5000 that isn't to dim for such a large screen. May I ask why you are after such a large screen (I assume a really large room) or is their something I am missing. For such a large screen you would be wanting to sit I believe 6 meters away as well. Why not just move your seats closer and go with a smaller screen? You will have a better image that is still very large and it can still be the same relative screen size.

I guess one possible solution would be to have an extremely high gain screen, but i'm not sure if even that would be enough.

Also stacking a projector that will inevitably have some misconvergence to me doesn't seem like a particularly good idea, but then again I haven't tried it so I can only speculate.

I used a high power screen at 12' wide in my old HT with a 9" CRT and it was fine but this room is much larger and my main goal is impact so as close to 14' is what I am shooting for and I also want curved for the imax effect not to mention its an AT screen so im only getting around 1.2 gain with the seymour. Everything is revolving around the screen which is 160 or 166" wide....I was thnking of two JVCRS45's but I think the ae8000 will end up brighter.
post #2271 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by fstopdigital View Post


Actually the new epsons shown at CEDIA throw some crazy lumens. The PowerLite Pro Cinema 4855WU shoots 4000 lumens for under $4,000, could probably light up a 14' screen pretty well. Or the one above that does 5,200L for around $6k

I will look into that although epsons have QC issues that kinda turn me off...maybe they are better now...thanks guys but still hoping someone has tried or knows of some blending hardware/software

From epson: "Stacked 3D solutions
Create an impressive viewing experience with twice the brightness using Epson’s stacked 3D solution (requires two projectors). Using polarized filters, in combination with low-cost 3D glasses, you can enjoy the 3D theater experience, right in your own personal space"

sorry for partial thread hijack....still wanting to know about ae8000
Edited by 316 - 10/23/13 at 9:09pm
post #2272 of 3227
So I returned my first 8000 and got my new one from Projector People (super fast shipping), and the new one also emits a high pitched whining sound, but it seems ever so slightly less annoying and grating on my ears. Anyway, at least now I'll have a warranty and some free 3D glasses (my first 8000 was from an unauthorized dealer).
post #2273 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by impetigo View Post

So I returned my first 8000 and got my new one from Projector People (super fast shipping), and the new one also emits a high pitched whining sound, but it seems ever so slightly less annoying and grating on my ears. Anyway, at least now I'll have a warranty and some free 3D glasses (my first 8000 was from an unauthorized dealer).

Why did you return the first one, again? If it was for the high-pitched sound, didn't we have that discussion? They all do it!

Still, getting it from an authorized dealer was a smart move, and Projector People are superb.
Edited by WilliamG - 10/23/13 at 10:33pm
post #2274 of 3227
How does the Panny handle motion in fast action scenes in movies and sports on broadcast TV?
post #2275 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

How does the Panny handle motion in fast action scenes in movies and sports on broadcast TV?

Really well. At least, as well as I've seen any projector do it. I preferred the Panny's motion handling over the JVC's, and to some extent, even my Sony HW30 or HW50, especially in 24p. Heck, I prefer the Panasonic's handling of 24p over any other projector I've used (Epson, JVC, Sony). The differences are subtle enough for most people, but I'm very sensitive to the differences between these projectors.
post #2276 of 3227
Ugh The Panny and the JVC x35 are tied for me and this didn't help lol. No idea which one to go with. The wife recently stated she finally wants to get cable so I want a pj that will have very solid motion capture (mostly for football)
post #2277 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

Ugh The Panny and the JVC x35 are tied for me and this didn't help lol. No idea which one to go with. The wife recently stated she finally wants to get cable so I want a pj that will have very solid motion capture (mostly for football)

Honestly, the JVCs really, REALLY are tried and tested projectors. So are the Sonys. I would pick them over the Panasonic. First, you won't have to deal with wondering if you're going to notice the high-pitched sound from the Panny. Second, you won't have to wonder about your image color uniformity. Those, to me, are biggies.

Are you discounting the Sony HW50/55? It's probably the best all rounder: Fantastic 2D (with Reality Creation which is a REAL eye opener), great 3D with very little crosstalk, great brightness, and fantastic input lag of ~30ms. That's just the HW50. I imagine the HW55 is probably even a tad better.

Either way, I'd take the JVC over the Panasonic if 2D is your main goal. Just because they're more consistent in terms of image quality. But then again, I'd take the Sony over the JVC, and I did. tongue.gif
post #2278 of 3227
If you could compare the motion of the JVC and the Panny to something such as a normal 120Hz Tv what would they be?

I need motorized lens shift and memory so that's why it's between these 2 for me.
post #2279 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

If you could compare the motion of the JVC and the Panny to something such as a normal 120Hz Tv what would they be?

I need motorized lens shift and memory so that's why it's between these 2 for me.

Not sure what you mean by "normal 120hz TV." There's no such thing. All broadcast TV is 60hz in the USA.
post #2280 of 3227
Quote:
Originally Posted by mijotter View Post

If you could compare the motion of the JVC and the Panny to something such as a normal 120Hz Tv what would they be?

I need motorized lens shift and memory so that's why it's between these 2 for me.

I am a big fan of the Panasonic reading this thread should tell you as much. With that being said for you the JVC I am almost certain would be the better fit. What handles fast moving sport best, I honestly cannot stand watching sport (outside of test cricket in the background) so I really can't comment on that beyond saying dlp will be king in that area.
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