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Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 83

post #2461 of 3228
Glad to hear
post #2462 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by kendo70433 View Post

Apparently the AE8000 can be sent to Panasonic have the LCD panels adjusted for convergence. Has anyone had that done? ...

For that matter, how does the Epson 5030 do it? .

I asked over on the Epson thread. The convergence is electronic, not mechanical. That means it would cause some blurring. I'd be opposed to that approach for the same reason I don't like the electronic keystone correction. It degrades the picture sharpness, even though it reduces fringing.

Now, to find out if Panasonic (see?! Still on-topic) LCD panels can be adjusted for convergence by a qualified technician. Maybe a professional calibrator could do it.
post #2463 of 3228
Do you think Panasonic will release a 9000U in 2014? I have the 7000U and am starting to think about a possible upgrade soon.
post #2464 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by keithj101 View Post

Do you think Panasonic will release a 9000U in 2014? I have the 7000U and am starting to think about a possible upgrade soon.

If you are thinking of an upgrade I would speculate that even if they do release a ae9000 in 2014 it will not be a worthwhile upgrade.
post #2465 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post

If you are thinking of an upgrade I would speculate that even if they do release a ae9000 in 2014 it will not be a worthwhile upgrade.

FR, what's your thinking on this? Would the change from a 7000 to a 9000 not be big enough to be worth it? Or is there something in expected 9000 features that turns you off? Something behind Door #3?

I'm looking at an upgrade from an AE3000. That's a bigger step. Still not worth it though?
post #2466 of 3228
Panasonic did not show up at CEDIA 2013 with anything new. Some people are speculating that the 8000 is the last.
post #2467 of 3228
I called about my glasses and the lady said due to overwhelming response to their special offer they ran out and are backordered. She said when they arrive they will start working on the August due outs first as that is where they were when they ran out. My date is 3 Sept per her records. I asked if they will get enough to cover Sept she said they will not know till they come in. mad.gif Well that sucks good thing I already have 4 pairs of 2nd generation and 2 pairs of 3rd generation from my 2011 TV.

Watched Man of Steel three times this weekend the AE-8000 in Normal mode, fan on normal and the 3D in my opinion is amazing. Like everyone else states once you have the focus fine tuned the 3D just punches. No cross talk at all. I am controlling my 3D with my Panasonic BDT500 blue ray FWIW.
post #2468 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

I called about my glasses and the lady said due to overwhelming response to their special offer they ran out and are backordered. She said when they arrive they will start working on the August due outs first as that is where they were when they ran out. My date is 3 Sept per her records. I asked if they will get enough to cover Sept she said they will not know till they come in. mad.gif Well that sucks good thing I already have 4 pairs of 2nd generation and 2 pairs of 3rd generation from my 2011 TV.

Watched Man of Steel three times this weekend the AE-8000 in Normal mode, fan on normal and the 3D in my opinion is amazing. Like everyone else states once you have the focus fine tuned the 3D just punches. No cross talk at all. I am controlling my 3D with my Panasonic BDT500 blue ray FWIW.

There is cross talk, Man of Stell has very little for various reasons but it is still there. I'm glade you're enjoying it though.
post #2469 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post

There is cross talk, Man of Stell has very little for various reasons but it is still there. I'm glade you're enjoying it though.
I have a 120" wide Seymour Center Stage XD AT screen and my first row is a 10' with my second row around 16' I sat in the front for two viewings and the back row for one. Just did not discern any cross talk. Guess I am one of the lucky ones. There was a little in Pacific Rim but I need to rewatch it now that I have everything dialed in. Again I did make some 3D adjustments on my BDT500 Blue-ray player which may help. Awesome move I saw it at the IMAX theater and there was way more cross talk there than what I am seeing now which is virtually none.
post #2470 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

I have a 120" wide Seymour Center Stage XD AT screen and my first row is a 10' with my second row around 16' I sat in the front for two viewings and the back row for one. Just did not discern any cross talk. Guess I am one of the lucky ones. There was a little in Pacific Rim but I need to rewatch it now that I have everything dialed in. Again I did make some 3D adjustments on my BDT500 Blue-ray player which may help. Awesome move I saw it at the IMAX theater and there was way more cross talk there than what I am seeing now which is virtually none.

Crosstalk is always an interesting thing to me, the only display I can stand 3d on are dlps (a bit of an overstatement as I can watch it on lcd, lcos and plasma but I would never choose to do so over a dlp) as they are essentially crosstalk free. For myself as soon there is crosstalk I am drawn out of the film and my mind immediately focuses on it, with that being said many don't seem to notice it and I have seen some displays that I found unwatchable in 3d due to the crosstalk that I have had others say they didn't even notice it when watching. Basically some seem to be less or more sensitive to crosstalk when it is present. The ae8000 I would think would show some notable crosstalk in Pacific Rim though I have not tested this one out on the ae8000 myself.

The only way the blu-ray player will decrease the crosstalk levels would be if you where changing the image separation which is something I wouldn't recommend doing. The reason is film makers do spend quite a bit of time designing 3d shoots in a specific way and changing this of course changes the 3d in every single shoot so you are not getting the intended effect of the 3d.
post #2471 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post

Crosstalk is always an interesting thing to me, the only display I can stand 3d on are dlps (a bit of an overstatement as I can watch it on lcd, lcos and plasma but I would never choose to do so over a dlp) as they are essentially crosstalk free. For myself as soon there is crosstalk I am drawn out of the film and my mind immediately focuses on it, with that being said many don't seem to notice it and I have seen some displays that I found unwatchable in 3d due to the crosstalk that I have had others say they didn't even notice it when watching. Basically some seem to be less or more sensitive to crosstalk when it is present. The ae8000 I would think would show some notable crosstalk in Pacific Rim though I have not tested this one out on the ae8000 myself.

The only way the blu-ray player will decrease the crosstalk levels would be if you where changing the image separation which is something I wouldn't recommend doing. The reason is film makers do spend quite a bit of time designing 3d shoots in a specific way and changing this of course changes the 3d in every single shoot so you are not getting the intended effect of the 3d.
I agree with you I have a Panasonic GT30 which is 2011 and we watch a lot of 3D on it and I am really pleased with the plasma in that regard. Being 55" probably helps as the image is smaller. If a movie comes out in 3D we buy that version as most come with the regular 2D disk anyway which we give to our kids. There are some movies that were originally 2D and converted to 3D post production i.e. Thor or the worst 3D move we have is Drive Angry. It just sucks! Not really worth watching in 3D. Some scenes are great with good depth but most are really bad with cross talk everywhere. So a Movie like Man of Steel that was filmed in 3D is a delight compared to that trash.

I agree about making adjustments at the player or even the projector will affect how the film is viewed and may not be what the director intended. But if you let the player make those decisions for you i.e. auto it does not always pick the right mode. What I meant was in all of the settings in my Player not just 3D instead of choosing auto or normal I find it better to dial them in manually. The adjustments I was messing with in the player were distance in the manual settings and pop out which I set originally at 4 but have since set it to 2.
Edited by cw5billwade - 11/20/13 at 10:21am
post #2472 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

I agree with you I have a Panasonic GT30 which is 2011 and we watch a lot of 3D on it and I am really pleased with the plasma in that regard. Being 55" probably helps as the image is smaller. If a movie comes out in 3D we buy that version as most come with the regular 2D disk anyway which we give to our kids. There are some movies that were originally 2D and converted to 3D post production i.e. Thor or the worst 3D move we have is Drive Angry. It just sucks! Not really worth watching in 3D. Some scenes are great with good depth but most are really bad with cross talk everywhere. So a Movie like Man of Steel that was filmed in 3D is a delight compared to that trash.

I agree about making adjustments at the player or even the projector will affect how the film is viewed and may not be what the director intended. But if you let the player make those decisions for you i.e. auto it does not always pick the right mode. What I meant was in all of the settings in my Player not just 3D instead of choosing auto or normal I find it better to dial them in manually. The adjustments I was messing with in the player were distance in the manual settings and pop out which I set originally at 4 but have since set it to 2.

Man of Steel was not shoot in 3d, it was shoot in 2d. Likewise Pacific Rim was shoot in 2d but in this case the cgi was rendered in 3d. Drive Angry was shoot in 3d and I can't comment on it as I have not seen it and do not intend to (as it is not the kind of film that appeals to me). However judging the quality of 3d based on the crosstalk is the wrong way to go about it. Crosstalk is a display related issue not a source related issue, Drive Angry in it's source will have zero crosstalk (and I can guarantee when viewed on on a dlp it will have little to no crosstalk).

Put simply the issue is not the film rather it is your display. Crosstalk is more likely when there is more depth present and when the contrast differences in the image are larger (black on white being the most prone to crosstalk). Man of steel has a mix of low to medium depth and is generally a rather bright film which makes it a rather easy film for a 3d display to handle. When you go to darker films with heavier levels of depth lcd solutions for 3d really pale compared to a good dlp for this reason.
post #2473 of 3228
My bad I thought it was shot in 3D
post #2474 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

My bad I thought it was shot in 3D

I get the impression the director in many ways did want to shoot in 3d but due to the way he wanted the film shoot meant 3d rigs simply couldn't yet do it. Conversions can look superb though, for example the difference between the 3d in the the live action (shoot in 2d and converted) and cgi (rendered in 3d) in Pacific Rim is to my eyes non existent.
post #2475 of 3228

Does anyone have any tips for pointing the projector straight at the wall? I have mine on a shelf pointed almost straight, the only way I can tell its not straight is slight keystoning on the right end of the image. Its difficult to adjust because its so difficult to even perceive, but its there. 

post #2476 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by writtensarcasm View Post

Does anyone have any tips for pointing the projector straight at the wall? I have mine on a shelf pointed almost straight, the only way I can tell its not straight is slight keystoning on the right end of the image. Its difficult to adjust because its so difficult to even perceive, but its there. 

I use four pieces of string that I measure to each corner (with a tape measure) and get them so they are all the exact same length. There are probably better ways, but this is my method.
post #2477 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by writtensarcasm View Post

its so difficult to even perceive
Perception is reality. If you don't see it, it's not there.
post #2478 of 3228
Has anyone been able to program a Harmony remote to switch "Frame Response" between "Fast" and "Normal"? I want to change the projector's behavior between gaming and DVD viewing.

Thanks for any hints on how to proceed.

Ken
post #2479 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by writtensarcasm View Post

Does anyone have any tips for pointing the projector straight at the wall? I have mine on a shelf pointed almost straight, the only way I can tell its not straight is slight keystoning on the right end of the image. Its difficult to adjust because its so difficult to even perceive, but its there. 
You have very may unsaid facts. Is your screen painted on wall, a fixed frame on wall or an AT xx” from the wall? Is it level and true? Are you 2:35:1 or 16x9? No room in any building built today is true. I bet all of the corners in your room are not 90 degrees. Mine aren’t in fact my left wall is actually 1 ½” longer than my right wall. My screen is AT 24” from the wall I am using a peerless mount vise your shelf but it is the same principal. When you have your 2.35:1 image zoomed to fill the screen either bring it up from the bottom of the screen a tad or drop the image down from the top using horizontal shift. Then measure the space between the image and the top or bottom of the screen. If one side is one inch image to top or bottom of screen and the other side is 1 ½” adjust your projector until they are equal. Hope this makes sense. If 16x9 it is the same principle. The image is more important than is my projector straight on the shelf for reasons stated above.
post #2480 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by writtensarcasm View Post

Does anyone have any tips for pointing the projector straight at the wall? I have mine on a shelf pointed almost straight, the only way I can tell its not straight is slight keystoning on the right end of the image. Its difficult to adjust because its so difficult to even perceive, but its there. 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FilmReverie View Post

I use four pieces of string that I measure to each corner (with a tape measure) and get them so they are all the exact same length. There are probably better ways, but this is my method.

FilmReverie, your method would accurately place the projector in the center of the screen (back a ways, but centered). I'm not sure writtensarcasm has that setup . Written, what is your theater setup? That might help with advice.

The approach I use is to slightly reduce the zoom to give around a 1" black border around the edges. With a blank blue image (no input?) I get a high contrast system to work with. Then I adjust projector pointing angle, tilt, and lens shift to make all four edges of the blue image parallel to the screen edges. Lots of back and forth here. Once the edges are parallel leave pointing angle and tilt alone. Slowly increase the zoom to fill the screen, adjusting lens shift to keep the image in the center of the screen. Along the way, check focus, since focus can affect zoom.

As zamphear implied, if you can't see any small remaining error, it doesn't matter.
post #2481 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by kendo70433 View Post


The approach I use is to slightly reduce the zoom to give around a 1" black border around the edges. With a blank blue image (no input?) I get a high contrast system to work with. Then I adjust projector pointing angle, tilt, and lens shift to make all four edges of the blue image parallel to the screen edges. Lots of back and forth here. Once the edges are parallel leave pointing angle and tilt alone. Slowly increase the zoom to fill the screen, adjusting lens shift to keep the image in the center of the screen. Along the way, check focus, since focus can affect zoom.

As zamphear implied, if you can't see any small remaining error, it doesn't matter.
You better described what I was trying to say
post #2482 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by kendo70433 View Post



FilmReverie, your method would accurately place the projector in the center of the screen (back a ways, but centered). I'm not sure writtensarcasm has that setup . Written, what is your theater setup? That might help with advice.

The approach I use is to slightly reduce the zoom to give around a 1" black border around the edges. With a blank blue image (no input?) I get a high contrast system to work with. Then I adjust projector pointing angle, tilt, and lens shift to make all four edges of the blue image parallel to the screen edges. Lots of back and forth here. Once the edges are parallel leave pointing angle and tilt alone. Slowly increase the zoom to fill the screen, adjusting lens shift to keep the image in the center of the screen. Along the way, check focus, since focus can affect zoom.

As zamphear implied, if you can't see any small remaining error, it doesn't matter.

This is basically how I have been doing it. I got it almost perfect last night. It was really only noticeable when watching 2:35:1 movies on my 16x9 Sable Fixed Frame. 

post #2483 of 3228
I might have been too elaborate. If you're seeing slight left-right keystoning, it means your projector is not pointed straight toward the screen. It's aimed a little to one side, to the right if the right side is slightly taller than the left. So you'd swivel it a little to the left until both sides are the same height. Which would slide the image left and you'd have to image shift it right. With a tape measure, you should be able to get it almost perfect.
post #2484 of 3228
I am so confused, I have a Panasonic PTAE8000U and using the calculator at http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic-PT-AE8000-projection-calculator-pro.htm it seems to say I should use a 1.0 gain screen. But the Elite Cinegrey 5D is 1.5 gain and that makes it get really wacky on where I should mount things and the minimum screen size starts to approach 135 very fast.

Are there any recommended screens that are known to work well with this projector? I have LOTS of room, full blackout with no ambient light and even dark brown walls and ceilings with a dark area rug in front of the screen. I am basically in a cave. And as I understand it, this thing is a light cannon so what screen do I need? My room is (I'll have to look it up) something like 35 deep and 25 feet wide. It is a dedicated theater room with two rows of seating.

Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

TS
post #2485 of 3228
So I'm about to make a purchase, but I'm deciding between the Panasonic PT-AE8000U and the Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5020UB. It will be used mostly for sports, movies (3d) and video games. I'm leaning towards the Panasonic because my understanding is it can do movies in Cinematic 2.40:1 (2.35.1) and the Epson requires an additional lens to do this (I think that's right). The Panny also has the auto zoom memory for aspect ratios which I like. Does anyone have experience with the two projectors and is there any reason I shouldn't get this Panasonic if I'm getting it for sports, movies (3d) and video games?
post #2486 of 3228
Just reporting in I've had this puppy since day 1 of its release. I basically have dusted it off a couple of times and adjusted the focus not touched a thing on it otherwise. Happy to report its running and projecting a picture thats still amazing me!!!!! A+biggrin.gif
post #2487 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by dukedallas2005 View Post

Just reporting in I've had this puppy since day 1 of its release. I basically have dusted it off a couple of times and adjusted the focus not touched a thing on it otherwise. Happy to report its running and projecting a picture thats still amazing me!!!!! A+biggrin.gif

Thanks for sharing it. How many hours do you have in the lamp?
post #2488 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsteele93 View Post

I am so confused, I have a Panasonic PTAE8000U and using the calculator at http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic-PT-AE8000-projection-calculator-pro.htm it seems to say I should use a 1.0 gain screen. But the Elite Cinegrey 5D is 1.5 gain and that makes it get really wacky on where I should mount things and the minimum screen size starts to approach 135 very fast.
Thanks,

TS
I have a 126" wide Seymour XD which is 1.2 gain with a 17' throw and have no issues. REC 709 was plenty bright but I like the skin tones in D-Cinema. I run with the lamp in eco for 2D. For 3D I run normal mode with fan on normal. The calculator is using the dynamic mode to make its calculations you will be fine.
post #2489 of 3228

Hey, could I use the powered zoom and focus on this projector to effectively improve daytime viewing when there's more ambient light? What I had in mind was to buy this projector, and during the daytime, I would reduce the display size with the powered zoom/focus. That way it would be better while I have competing ambient light in my room, and then during night-time when it's dark I increase the display size to fit the full length of my projector screen.

 

Anyone ever heard of this, would this work???

post #2490 of 3228
Quote:
Originally Posted by darrin0 View Post

Hey, could I use the powered zoom and focus on this projector to effectively improve daytime viewing when there's more ambient light? What I had in mind was to buy this projector, and during the daytime, I would reduce the display size with the powered zoom/focus. That way it would be better while I have competing ambient light in my room, and then during night-time when it's dark I increase the display size to fit the full length of my projector screen.

Anyone ever heard of this, would this work???
It'd work just fine. smile.gif
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