or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 16

post #451 of 3209
I'm looking for something more minimalistic to mount my projector. Has anyone tried the Peerless flush mount or comment on it? http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-ppf-Projector-Flush-Ceiling/dp/B00155SY70/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2BHV1X3JM7CQS&coliid=I325C5X0IPQ233

I am also looking at the following, but it's a bit large given a ceiling light will be close to the projector... http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2BHV1X3JM7CQS&coliid=I1VJ0R79SFFI92 Can this version be installed directly on the ceiling or is a connector required?
post #452 of 3209
The second one is the one we recommneded above. /confused

I think it would be a bitch and a half leveling and aiming that first one. I bet it actually hangs lower down than the one we recommended too, tho probably not by much....

It is actually two distinct pieces. One part you mount to the ceiling, the other part you mount to the PJ. You then connect the two with a nice tongue and groove connector and there is an ez-twist screw to lock it into place securely. If you want to change projectors you unloc the two parts, remove the bottom and your mount part stays attached to the ceiling.
post #453 of 3209
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202527091/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=triple+grip&storeId=10051#.ULBcm4fAdJI

Those are the heavy duty locking drywall anchors we used btw, 4 drilled holes and popped those guys in and used the screws to lock it in. Opinions on how well that would work via anchoring into a stud?
post #454 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kadath View Post

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202527091/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=triple+grip&storeId=10051#.ULBcm4fAdJI

Those are the heavy duty locking drywall anchors we used btw, 4 drilled holes and popped those guys in and used the screws to lock it in. Opinions on how well that would work via anchoring into a stud?

your drywall vibrations will transfer to your PJ and possible onscreen shake, any reason why you could not find at least 1 stud to screw into?

I'd never trust a pure sheetrock anchor upside down holding a $$$$ PJ.
Most HT owners have backker board for their PJ to anchor into, like this: .............................then drywall
IMG_5751.JPG ... IMG_5793.JPG ..IMG_6414.JPG

Can you cut out a section of drywall, install backer for PJ mounting, and put the drywall back over? Much more secure mounting.
post #455 of 3209
Or just install a sort of backing board on top of your drywall and paint it to match. Just make sure the board is securely attached to studs on your ceiling. Just as long as you cut a large enough piece and paint it to match everything will look pretty nice. You can attach the projector directly to the board.
post #456 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kadath View Post

The second one is the one we recommneded above. /confused
I think it would be a bitch and a half leveling and aiming that first one. I bet it actually hangs lower down than the one we recommended too, tho probably not by much....
It is actually two distinct pieces. One part you mount to the ceiling, the other part you mount to the PJ. You then connect the two with a nice tongue and groove connector and there is an ez-twist screw to lock it into place securely. If you want to change projectors you unloc the two parts, remove the bottom and your mount part stays attached to the ceiling.

That's helpful... I was concerned I would need additional pieces to flush mount.
post #457 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

Or just install a sort of backing board on top of your drywall and paint it to match. Just make sure the board is securely attached to studs on your ceiling. Just as long as you cut a large enough piece and paint it to match everything will look pretty nice. You can attach the projector directly to the board.

That's a good idea... and won't require any additional Peerless accessories and maintain the low profile with a secure mounting. Thanks!
post #458 of 3209
Thanks for the tip on the board idea, will give that a shot if it seems like the vibrations are an issue.
post #459 of 3209
Ahem... I think we should keep this thread on topic, no?
post #460 of 3209
For mounts I used the Peerless one recommended a few pages back and also recommended a bit after as well. This one here:

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2BHV1X3JM7CQS&coliid=I1VJ0R79SFFI92

I also purchased the ceiling plate thing:

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-ACC570-Joist-Ceiling-Mounts/dp/B000BITSTA/ref=pd_sim_e_3

I then ended up buying an 8" nipple pipe from a plumbing store to extend it a bit. I painted it flat black with some spray paint from HD.

It's pretty solid I think it turned out pretty good. The one thing is that it is not 100% "tight" because if I tighten the pole and twist it as tight as possible, it will have the projector pointing the wrong direction. But it definitely isn't moving anywhere unless it is turned by someone. Last night it was kind of annoying when I was trying to get the screen to fit as best as possible on the screen with the little handle thing to move the screen around, because the projector started turning a bit from the force.

post #461 of 3209
Hey guys I just ordered one of these. Can anyone tell me if the 3d is good. I really want it to work well. This seemed like the best choice for everything I needed. I wanted 3d and less screen door effect so that I can put my acoustic screen back up since I got horrible moire with the epson 8500 I have
post #462 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

As far as dealers go, this is the best I can find that are authorized.. Can't say how new this list is, but it's from Panasonic itself!
http://www.panasonic.com/business/projectors/dealers_home_theater.asp

This is the one I found specific to the 8000; just click on "How To Buy" on the page it will take you too the pop up window with the authorized dealers...Amazon is not on the list.
[URL=http://www.panasonic.com/business/projectors/PT-AE8000U.asp#[/URL]
post #463 of 3209
I am upgrading from my Sanyo PLV Z1 that after nearly 10 years is in good working shape (no blobs and LCD panels are aligned and don't show any sign of degradation) and with the original bulb still going strong. I did not expect the state of the art to take this long to change. I always imagined that we would be in the UltraHD era by now and that 1080p 3d projectors like the 8000u would be cheaper than what I spent on the PLVZ1 nearly ten years ago. Anyways the 8000u is arriving Monday. Hoping to not having to deal with hdcp hand shaking issues anymore since the industry has had 10 years to work things out.

What are the best 3d glasses out there for the 8000u? Do the Panasonic glasses do the high constrast 8000u justice (it appears that a lot of 3d glasses are around 1200:1 while the native contrast of the projector is a hundred times that)? Do they have good response time for 3d gaming? The small size ones from Panasonic seem to be on backorder. The ones that I will get from the rebate offer will take a while to arrive. So I have to buy at least a couple (getting only one large one along with the PJ) locally to tide me over. Would like to buy good ones that work with the 8000u's IR transmitter. Any suggestions appreciated.

Would also like to know of a good OTA tuner that passes 1080i over HDMI that does HDCP hand shakes well with the 8000u. I have a LG-LST 3510a that has the original firmware which passes 1080i over DVI. But I have to manually reset the resolution from the default 480p to 720p for the PLV Z1 each time and may have to manually set it to 1080i each time for the 8000u if the HDCP handshake does indeed default to 480p. The 3510a is getting a little long in the tooth and the upconverting DVD player does not work anymore. I would like to replace it with something more compact, more steady at holding onto the OTA signal and more current (something which is internet connected and whose firmware is upgradable and one that deals with OTA program listings well). I would prefer not to go the HTPC route. I like that the 3510a boots up fairly instantaneously. I don't subscribe to cable tv and don't plan to. We mostly stream content over the internet, watch some TV OTA, watch blurays and do some light gaming (mostly kinect based). Any suggestions for watching OTA TV is appreciated as well.
post #464 of 3209
I just got an PT-AE6000E and seem to have som serious issues with 3D on it..

I purchased the projector to get less crosstalk and birghter 3D compared to my current JVC X3..

My setup is a PS3 as BD-player and game consolse and a HTPC with PowerDVD for library on the PC running trough a Onkyo NR808.
My fist problem was with 24/FP BD from PC. The JVC shows FP BD3D material just fine.. But when i hooked up the Panasoinc it worked OK showing 2D content and normal PC desktop etc. But wehn Cyberlink switched to Framepacked output it just shows a bluescreesn until PowerDVD switches back to 2D.. I am not sure if this is a sync problem or something else going on? Do any of you guys have a theroy about why it doesnt accept the signal?

I also tried the PS3 and first i tried a 3D game with Wipeout HD.. And then Ghosting is horrible!!! I am in dissbelief and very dissapointed now.. Don't even know if I can return the projector as the package etc. are broken.

Are there any suggestions of how to eliminate the ghosting on it? Or is it really so poor on the AE6000/8000? I exected it at to be almost crosstalk/ghosting free ?!?!?
Could it be a faulty unit?

Any suggestions on what to try??
Edited by twobeer - 11/25/12 at 2:31pm
post #465 of 3209
In which 3D-Glasses-Brigthness-Mode are you playing? 'Bright' leaves the glasses open longer so more light gets through but Ghosting is increased. Least Ghosting should be at 'dark' settings. 'Medium' is compromise-setting. Try if this changes things for you.
post #466 of 3209
I tried the dark mode as well, and it didn't seem to make much difference with the ghosting, apart from the darkening, maybe a little bit better but still lots and lots of ghosting.. I was hoping for a ghost free experiance? Maybe I am more sensitive than others?!?

I tried Alice in Wonderland BD3D and same thing.. Much ghosting also in dark-mode. I was using the Panasonic TY-EW3D3M glasses.. Do any of you guys think it would be of any use to try to replace it with another PT-AE6000/8000 or is ghosting something they have not been able to eliminate on the 6000/8000 ??

btw. The ghosting seemed almost non existing on the right eye, but when closing the right eye and looking only trough the left the ghosting seemed more visible.

I am kind of stunned as i expected an almost ghosting free experience with the AE6000 ..
post #467 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

For mounts I used the Peerless one recommended a few pages back and also recommended a bit after as well. This one here:

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2BHV1X3JM7CQS&coliid=I1VJ0R79SFFI92

I also purchased the ceiling plate thing:

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-ACC570-Joist-Ceiling-Mounts/dp/B000BITSTA/ref=pd_sim_e_3

I then ended up buying an 8" nipple pipe from a plumbing store to extend it a bit. I painted it flat black with some spray paint from HD.

It's pretty solid I think it turned out pretty good. The one thing is that it is not 100% "tight" because if I tighten the pole and twist it as tight as possible, it will have the projector pointing the wrong direction. But it definitely isn't moving anywhere unless it is turned by someone. Last night it was kind of annoying when I was trying to get the screen to fit as best as possible on the screen with the little handle thing to move the screen around, because the projector started turning a bit from the force.


Purbeast,
Could the threaded collar on the plate be drilled and tapped to accept a set screw? That would ensure the pipe can not move. HD usually sells very small Allen head grub screws. Even black finish so it wouldn't be that noticable.
post #468 of 3209
Ummm... This is not what I want to hear. Is anyone having a good experience with 3d on this thing?
post #469 of 3209
There is no ghosting free LCD projector around yet. I tried the new Epson and it was very very slightly better. If you must have a ghosting free projector try a DLP-projector. I had one here for a few weeks. There was no visible ghosting/crosstalk whatsoever, but the rainbow effect killed it for me. I was thinking about buying this one too and had a small preview in store. The movie was fine and ghosting was only visible, albeit clearly, on subtitles, but I also intend to play videogames with this thing and if WipeOut is so terrible already I don't know. Can you try other games too?

Maybe your glasses are malfunctioning. I think a problem with glasses is more probable than with the PJ itself, although not impossible. How is the experience in movies? I've seen Avatar and as I wrote, the movie is fine. Only subtitles made Ghosting apparent.

I would really like to know if the ghosting is already on the wall or is caused by slow glasses. Slow glasses seems unlikely seeing that DLP is free of ghosting, but with all the technological advancement in LCD chips, especially the new Epson chips being all that fast, how can there still be leftovers of the previous frames in the next one? Is it some sort of slow LCD-switching (d)efect? If the problem is caused by glasses, one can always hope for better glasses.
post #470 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damage Inc View Post

Purbeast,
Could the threaded collar on the plate be drilled and tapped to accept a set screw? That would ensure the pipe can not move. HD usually sells very small Allen head grub screws. Even black finish so it wouldn't be that noticable.

That is a very good idea. I noticed in the instructions for the mounting plate and actual mount that it had examples of how to install it with the "official" Peerless extension, and it did have a long open area that is used for exactly what you are talking about. It comes with the screws as well so basically I would have to just drill into the threaded area on the pipe (on top and bottom) and then screw it in.

Is there any specific size drill bit you recommend for this? And you are talking about drilling directly through the metal threaded part on the pipe correct?

I think I may go to HD and find a drill bit that can go through steel and give this a try, thanks for the suggestion.
post #471 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

That is a very good idea. I noticed in the instructions for the mounting plate and actual mount that it had examples of how to install it with the "official" Peerless extension, and it did have a long open area that is used for exactly what you are talking about. It comes with the screws as well so basically I would have to just drill into the threaded area on the pipe (on top and bottom) and then screw it in.
Is there any specific size drill bit you recommend for this? And you are talking about drilling directly through the metal threaded part on the pipe correct?
I think I may go to HD and find a drill bit that can go through steel and give this a try, thanks for the suggestion.

I think you would drill through the Peerless part to put the set screw in. You could also just drill through both and put a dowel or roll pin through both. Or another option would be if there are enough threads left on the pipe to get 2 jam nuts (one for the ceiling end, one for the projector end) This would lock the pipe in position.
post #472 of 3209
Drill bit size would be determined by what tap size which would match the grub screw size... arm bone connect to the... Sorry. This would just be trhough the mount collar and the grub screw would bottom out against the pipe threads locking the extention in place. I would only tighen as much as needed to stop movment as to not damage the pie threads. that could cause you some grief when trying to disassemble (if ever required).

Randy's suggestion of a dowel, and drilling straight through would work also. Might be harder to insert and potentially remove a dowel (or pin) if it were tight enough to stop all movement though.

Heck, if it's never coming apart again just JB Weld that sucker. eek.gif Actually that not a bad idea, just a dab (pea sized) might be enough to 'tack' it in place but still be broken off for removal if required at a later date. JB Weld is paintable also so it might be less noticable (in a dark room...LOL)?
post #473 of 3209
I upgraded from AE7000 because found a buyer for it for a good price.

One thing I noticed is that on my new AE8000 there seems to be a bit more focus non-uniformity - not a big deal but when you have HTPC desktop you have a hard time making sure that left upper corner and right lower corner are both completely sharp.
Probably noticed it because I started adjusting focus standing 3 feet away from a 104 inch screen.
post #474 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by randy98mtu View Post

I think you would drill through the Peerless part to put the set screw in. You could also just drill through both and put a dowel or roll pin through both. Or another option would be if there are enough threads left on the pipe to get 2 jam nuts (one for the ceiling end, one for the projector end) This would lock the pipe in position.

The projector and the ceiling mount (the Peerless parts) already have holes in them to put security screws in to hold this in place, because the official Peerless extension column has the holes at the end of the pipe to put screws through.

The one that is on the projector mount portion, I put the screw in and tightened it so that it can't go any further, and that secures the pipe with the mount on that end good enough. There is no need to put a hole on that area because it isn't moving.

Then the one that is on the ceiling mount, I ended up finding a small security screw that I put through the hole in the ceiling mount and screwed it tight against the pipe, and it seems to be holding it just fine now and it won't turn.

So I don't think I am going to be doing any drilling for the time being. Thanks for the suggestions though because it made me go down there and mess around with it more to figure this out.
post #475 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damage Inc View Post

...Might be harder to insert and potentially remove a dowel (or pin) if it were tight enough to stop all movement though.
Heck, if it's never coming apart again just JB Weld that sucker. eek.gif Actually that not a bad idea, just a dab (pea sized) might be enough to 'tack' it in place but still be broken off for removal if required at a later date. JB Weld is paintable also so it might be less noticable (in a dark room...LOL)?

How about just using some Loctite Blue (not Red) on the threads. It will hold them tight but will still allow them to come apart. Very cheap and low tech solution.
post #476 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by durack View Post

I upgraded from AE7000 because found a buyer for it for a good price.
One thing I noticed is that on my new AE8000 there seems to be a bit more focus non-uniformity - not a big deal but when you have HTPC desktop you have a hard time making sure that left upper corner and right lower corner are both completely sharp.
Probably noticed it because I started adjusting focus standing 3 feet away from a 104 inch screen.

update: hung up my old AE7000 - no focus uniformity issues and in general 2D seems clearer, at least when taking about my HTPC desktop. As such the deal is off, will contact the place where I purchased the AE8000 - will try to return or exchange it.

Hopefully I just got a crappy lens, my fear though is that this is "within spec".
post #477 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by durack View Post

update: hung up my old AE7000 - no focus uniformity issues and in general 2D seems clearer, at least when taking about my HTPC desktop. As such the deal is off, will contact the place where I purchased the AE8000 - will try to return or exchange it.
Hopefully I just got a crappy lens, my fear though is that this is "within spec".

durack: I'm curious about what the focus uniformity looks like on your PT-AE8000U. Is it anywhere near as bad as what I've been seeing with Sony HW50ES units? I've documented that here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1436740/sony-vpl-hw50es-focus-nonuniformity

If you've taken any pictures of the focus non-uniformity, I'd love to see them.

Thanks!
post #478 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by KUV1977 View Post

There is no ghosting free LCD projector around yet. I tried the new Epson and it was very very slightly better. If you must have a ghosting free projector try a DLP-projector. I had one here for a few weeks. There was no visible ghosting/crosstalk whatsoever, but the rainbow effect killed it for me. I was thinking about buying this one too and had a small preview in store. The movie was fine and ghosting was only visible, albeit clearly, on subtitles, but I also intend to play videogames with this thing and if WipeOut is so terrible already I don't know. Can you try other games too?
Maybe your glasses are malfunctioning. I think a problem with glasses is more probable than with the PJ itself, although not impossible. How is the experience in movies? I've seen Avatar and as I wrote, the movie is fine. Only subtitles made Ghosting apparent.
I would really like to know if the ghosting is already on the wall or is caused by slow glasses. Slow glasses seems unlikely seeing that DLP is free of ghosting, but with all the technological advancement in LCD chips, especially the new Epson chips being all that fast, how can there still be leftovers of the previous frames in the next one? Is it some sort of slow LCD-switching (d)efect? If the problem is caused by glasses, one can always hope for better glasses.

Yeah, To me it is weird that the shutters and panels should not be able to switch quick enough och these so called 480hz projectors to eliminate crosstalk..

Has anyone compared crosstalk on AE8000 with HW50 ? I heard some positive feedback from X3 users switching to HW50, but then again don't know how picky they are about crosstalk.. I suppose the HW50 also will have visibile crosstalk, but will it be less or similar to the AE8000? Or is my only option DLP if i want to get rid off anyoing ghosting?
post #479 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

durack: I'm curious about what the focus uniformity looks like on your PT-AE8000U. Is it anywhere near as bad as what I've been seeing with Sony HW50ES units? I've documented that here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1436740/sony-vpl-hw50es-focus-nonuniformity
If you've taken any pictures of the focus non-uniformity, I'd love to see them.
Thanks!

Unfortunately I already took it down and put back the AE7000 up...

Great job at documenting your issue. In fact I found your thread when I was researching my problem smile.gif

I can tell you that on my AE8000 with everything else being in focus the right lower corner would be out of focus comparable to what you would see on your projector.
Other corners are slightly out of focus compared to the center, but you really have to look for it and would not have been an issue for me. Right lower corner is VERY noticeable.

So far I must say that slightly better 3D with slightly less crosstalk is not worth it if I were to live with this kind of focus problem.
post #480 of 3209
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveR1952 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damage Inc View Post

...Might be harder to insert and potentially remove a dowel (or pin) if it were tight enough to stop all movement though.
Heck, if it's never coming apart again just JB Weld that sucker. eek.gif Actually that not a bad idea, just a dab (pea sized) might be enough to 'tack' it in place but still be broken off for removal if required at a later date. JB Weld is paintable also so it might be less noticable (in a dark room...LOL)?

How about just using some Loctite Blue (not Red) on the threads. It will hold them tight but will still allow them to come apart. Very cheap and low tech solution.

Could work also, but even blue Loctite on something that diameter could need some 'persuasion' to come apart. Loctite does make some specific thread joint compounds which perform a similar function as teflon tape but are terribley messy. Also pipe threads (NPT) are typically cut with a taper which makes them even tougher to deal with. Sounds like the set screw worked out.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version)