or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 18

post #511 of 3206
Think this sets the record straight on amazon ....

Direct from Panasonic

"Thank you for contacting Panasonic Projector. Amazon.com is not Panasonic Projector authorized on-line seller. Here are several authroized on-line seller: bhphotovideo.com VisualApex.com Projector"
post #512 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCoug View Post

Just bought an AE 8000 that will be delivered in a few days.
I'd like to get recommendations for good 3D glasses from AE8000 owners.

Just buy the Panasonic 3rd gen glasses. You're asking for trouble with some off-brand glasses (crosstalk etc).
post #513 of 3206
Thanks Durack.

Unfortunately, from that full screen photo, it's hard for me to tell much of anything b/c I see sharpness drop-off as you go both left & right of center; however, this could easily be caused by your 18mm lens at f/4. In fact, if you put up your image next to my Sony HW50 image, my HW50 looks better... but this is really not a fair comparison b/c I show my screen with a Canon 70-200 f/2.8L II at f/11. That's one of the sharpest zooms ever made. smile.gif

That blue to pink gradient from top to bottom is rather appalling, unless the saturation on your camera is set really high. Mine definitely has a magenta to green cast as you go from upper right to lower left, respectively, but you can barely even see it in my image of the NEC pattern here:



Anyway, I'll get my hands on a PT-AE8000U soon as I just want to make a direct comparison against the HW50.

Thanks for posting the shot!
post #514 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

durack - on this test pattern - is the color shift (blue -> pink) as visible in person as it appears in the photo?

Not as striking as in the photo but it is definitely noticeable.
Here's hoping that Panasonic will admit that it is defective.
post #515 of 3206
For those that have problems with PS3 displaying 3D content, you need to redo your display settings (http://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/ps3/current/settings/videooutput.html). If the PS3 detects a proper 3D setup, you should get a screen asking you to select your 3D TV size. If you don't get this screen, then your PS3 will act solely as a 2D player. (This is a bit confusing for PS3 owners when upgrading from 2D to 3D).

Also, some people that may not realize they have an incompatible 3D setup or improper 3D setup, might think they need to turn on "2D to 3D" conversion settings on their TVs/Projectors to get 2D to display as 3D; this is the not the correct way to view true 3D content since this type of "forced" 3D will show noticeable crosstalk, and, simply, it won't show the intended 3D properly. FYI, when viewing a 3D blu-ray disc, 3D video will either automatically display as 3D, or it will give you the option to select "3D" from the blu-ray disc menus, i.e., you shouldn't have to "turn on" 3D through any of the TV settings (at least from my experience with various setups). FYI, when a 3D disc loads in your player, if it doesn't detect that you have a proper 3D setup, the disc will act as if it's in a 2D player, displaying any 3D content as 2D.

Also, some computer programs can also allow you to do 2D to 3D conversion, but again "forcing" 2D to 3D will not give you the results that you'd get from a true 3D disc/game.
post #516 of 3206
Hey guys

So I finally upgraded my PT-AE2000U projector and went with the 8000. Difference in quality? Night & Day!! The PT-AE8000U puts out the most amazing projected image I have ever seen, and just like some other person said, it's up there with the top of the range LED TVs, simply stunning!! Don't get me wrong, the PT-AE2000U was very impressive to watch but the 8000 completely destroys it!!

3D at first was a bit of a let down but after some fine tuning, it started looking better and better. The problem is I only have some side by side and top and bottom 3D content at my disposal which is probably adding noise to the image. I plan on buying some Real D Blu-Rays soon and will report back if it's much better. Saying that, I did see some of the best 3D I've ever seen. My suggestion to those not liking the 3D image is to set the brightness of the glasses to light (Found in the 3D menu while playing content). It makes the image much brighter and gives it a much more comfortable feel

My setup is the 8000 on a 120" glass beaded 1.3 gain screen and the medium size new generation Panasonic glasses.

I picked up the 8000 for $2195 from A&G (Brand New/Sealed B stock item), what a bargain!!!

Question regarding 3D auto detection, do I need a 1.4 HDMI cable to get that to work?

Thanks
Edited by jacksback - 11/27/12 at 1:29am
post #517 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCoug View Post

Just bought an AE 8000 that will be delivered in a few days.
I'd like to get recommendations for good 3D glasses from AE8000 owners.

I'm still waiting for my free glasses to arrive. In the meantime I've asked for two pairs of the Xpand X104 for Christmas. So I will report back in a month! biggrin.gif
post #518 of 3206
durack - what are you using for a test pattern in your photos? Would love to try it myself.
post #519 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

durack - what are you using for a test pattern in your photos? Would love to try it myself.

One of the other posters was kind enough to provide it, there is a link on the previous page of this thread.
post #520 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

Here's the test image I use. It's 1px text:
http://cl.ly/L5eJ/NEC_pattern_1.jpg

I'm going to try putting that pic on my 8000 tonight and focusing it based on that image just to be sure everything is okay with mine now that I have it mounted and my screen is up.

One thing I noticed - and can someone chime in on this please because I don't know if this is normal or not - when I was trying to set my focus properly, I was literally like 1-2 feet away from the screen. Is it normal that there is not any perfect focus setting that won't have ANY "edge bleeding" (not sure the term here) where the text on screen won't have any light coming off the edges of the text? I pressed the lens button on my remote, that put me into that blue screen with some text and graphics to help focus, and I was looking at the white text on the blue background to see when the focus seemed best. But there was never 1 setting where I didn't see any "bleed" from the white text into the blue background. It was like just 1 pixel width of bleeding, but I am just wondering if this is normal or not. I definitely can't notice this when I am just looking at it from my normal viewing distance.

On another somewhat related note - how do you guys make 100% certain that your projector is 100% perpendicular to the wall and not projecting at any other angle than 90 degrees to the wall? I feel mine is about as perfect as can be but I really don't know how to be certain.
post #521 of 3206
purbeast -

Thanks for the link!

Up close with white text on black background, you will definitely see some slight misconvergence visible as color bleeding around the edges of the letters. Unless it is very severe, this is normal. You will also notice that the amount of bleeding varies across the screen, better or worse in some areas than others. I don't like it, but this is a consumer product and perfection is not an option at this price point. On real program material...it's not a problem IMO.

I'm on my third Panny (700, 3000, 8000). The 700 had manual focus, so I would focus standing at the PJ and then run up close to the screen and check the focus at the pixel level. With the 3000, it had power focus/zoom, so I would stand at the screen and focus until the test pattern pixels looked as sharp as possible. BUT! I don't think this is/was ever correct! Late in my ownership of the 3000, I decided to sit in my chair and focus on some sharp black-on-white computer text until it looked as sharp as possible from my seat. Then, when I then threw up the built-in Panasonic focus test pattern and walked up to peer closely at it on the screen, to my surprise I discovered that the pixels were not in sharp focus. My conclusion is that it is not correct to focus the lens right on the LCD panels themselves, but instead to adjust for a sharp subjective picture when viewed at the normal viewing distance. Once I started using this procedure, I was amazed by the improvement in my enjoyment of sharpness and detail when watching normal high-def program material.

Believe it or not, I check for perpendicularity between projector and screen using a tape measure! You could use a piece of stout string as well if a tape measure isn't available. I check the distance from each front corner of the housing to the screen. You need a helper for this of course. Beyond that, it's always possible to empirically tweak the PJ angle to achieve the best on-screen focus uniformity results. In reality, who cares if the PJ is perfectly perpendicular as long as the image on screen in perfect? In fact, it could be that the focus is not inherently uniform when the PJ is perfectly square...in that case, why not put it slightly off angle to correct the problem?

I also use a bubble level to check for front/rear and left/right level. The old 3000 was flat on top, making this an easy job. The curved top surface of the 8000 is a problem in this regard, so I lined up the edge of the level with the joint between the top cover and the sides or front of the projector housing.

As a final step, I check for left/right level at the screen. I adjust the feet to make sure that the projected image lines up perfectly with the screen. There's no way your screen is 100% perfectly level within a single pixel, but it's OK to slight tilt the PJ a few hundredths or tenths of a degree to match it! smile.gif No one will ever be able to detect that the screen is not absolutely true level as long as the image is thrown square to it.
post #522 of 3206
Speaking of all this: Is there any online guide to correctly mounting a projector? I am going to ceiling mount mine in a week or so and want to make sure I do it right.
post #523 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

Just buy the Panasonic 3rd gen glasses. You're asking for trouble with some off-brand glasses (crosstalk etc).

I read in an earlier post on this thread that the AE8000 usese IR for the glasses but most glasses seem to be bluetooth, so I want to make
sure I buy the correct glasses. Can you or somebody else post the model number for the Panasonic glasses I should buy? Thanks!

BTW, I bought my AE8000 from BHPhotovideo.com to make sure I bought from an authorized online reseller, I got if for $2,899 and
6 months no payments and no interest using "BillMeLater." I think that deal goes through the end of this month.
post #524 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

purbeast -
Thanks for the link!
Up close with white text on black background, you will definitely see some slight misconvergence visible as color bleeding around the edges of the letters. Unless it is very severe, this is normal. You will also notice that the amount of bleeding varies across the screen, better or worse in some areas than others. I don't like it, but this is a consumer product and perfection is not an option at this price point. On real program material...it's not a problem IMO.
I'm on my third Panny (700, 3000, 8000). The 700 had manual focus, so I would focus standing at the PJ and then run up close to the screen and check the focus at the pixel level. With the 3000, it had power focus/zoom, so I would stand at the screen and focus until the test pattern pixels looked as sharp as possible. BUT! I don't think this is/was ever correct! Late in my ownership of the 3000, I decided to sit in my chair and focus on some sharp black-on-white computer text until it looked as sharp as possible from my seat. Then, when I then threw up the built-in Panasonic focus test pattern and walked up to peer closely at it on the screen, to my surprise I discovered that the pixels were not in sharp focus. My conclusion is that it is not correct to focus the lens right on the LCD panels themselves, but instead to adjust for a sharp subjective picture when viewed at the normal viewing distance. Once I started using this procedure, I was amazed by the improvement in my enjoyment of sharpness and detail when watching normal high-def program material.
Believe it or not, I check for perpendicularity between projector and screen using a tape measure! You could use a piece of stout string as well if a tape measure isn't available. I check the distance from each front corner of the housing to the screen. You need a helper for this of course. Beyond that, it's always possible to empirically tweak the PJ angle to achieve the best on-screen focus uniformity results. In reality, who cares if the PJ is perfectly perpendicular as long as the image on screen in perfect? In fact, it could be that the focus is not inherently uniform when the PJ is perfectly square...in that case, why not put it slightly off angle to correct the problem?
I also use a bubble level to check for front/rear and left/right level. The old 3000 was flat on top, making this an easy job. The curved top surface of the 8000 is a problem in this regard, so I lined up the edge of the level with the joint between the top cover and the sides or front of the projector housing.
As a final step, I check for left/right level at the screen. I adjust the feet to make sure that the projected image lines up perfectly with the screen. There's no way your screen is 100% perfectly level within a single pixel, but it's OK to slight tilt the PJ a few hundredths or tenths of a degree to match it! smile.gif No one will ever be able to detect that the screen is not absolutely true level as long as the image is thrown square to it.

Cool thanks for that!

My screen is as level as I think I can get it. I put my level at the top corners of it and it's as level in those positions as possible.

That is good to know about the bleeding though. It is nothing severe at all, it is literally like 1 pixel of a slight bleed to the right side of the text. I just did not know if this is normal or not being my first projector. I figured nothing was wrong since from like 3-4 feet away it isn't even noticeable.

I'm not overly concerned with my projector being 100% perpendicular as long as the pic looks good. It was more of just me wondering since this was my first projector I've ever had and mounted it to the ceiling over the past weekend. I am going to see if all corners are in focus tonight when I put that other image up on screen and just take a look at it. If all looks good with that, then all will be good with me smile.gif Just playing some movie clips on the projector though, everything seems to be just fine and dandy. I don't have sound yet so I haven't actually sat down and watched movies. But I did game for about 20 minutes on Sunday and didn't notice anything weird, other than not wanting to get up frown.gif
post #525 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCoug View Post

I read in an earlier post on this thread that the AE8000 usese IR for the glasses but most glasses seem to be bluetooth, so I want to make
sure I buy the correct glasses. Can you or somebody else post the model number for the Panasonic glasses I should buy? Thanks!
BTW, I bought my AE8000 from BHPhotovideo.com to make sure I bought from an authorized online reseller, I got if for $2,899 and
6 months no payments and no interest using "BillMeLater." I think that deal goes through the end of this month.

Panasonic TY-EW3D3MU are the ones you want. They are IR, and the latest release for Panasonic projectors. BT is not supported on the Panasonic PT-AE8000U.
post #526 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

Panasonic TY-EW3D3MU are the ones you want. They are IR, and the latest release for Panasonic projectors. BT is not supported on the Panasonic PT-AE8000U.

THANKS !

EDIT: I see that the TY-EW3D3MU model glasses you recommended are the 2011 model. Isn't there a 2012 model?

EDIT UPDATE: I downloaded the AE8000 brochure and it says the TY-EW3D3MU model glasses are the most current model as of September 2012, so you are correct.
Edited by SteveCoug - 11/27/12 at 1:42pm
post #527 of 3206
I have tried searching on both this thread and the one for the 7000 model to no avail, so please excuse me if this has been answered before. I just replaced my old 3000 with an 8000. It is hanging from a pole in the ceiling, which is aligned with the horizontal center of my 2.35:1 CIH screen. The 3000 and its dead center lens, worked great with the zoom memory lens feature. But the 8000's lens is about 3.75" off center. Using the awful joystick and the zoom / focus memory, I can fill the 1.78:1 area, but whenever I try to fill the 2.35:1 screen, the image falls a few inches to the left of the screen. I use the zoom and V-area to fill the vertical part, but there seems to be no way of centering the image without using the joystick, which would then reset the 1.78:1 setting. The H-Area control only crops the image.

Am I doing something wrong? It appears that the zoom lens memory feature does not work for CIH, unless the lens is horizontally centered with the screen. Help!

-bill
post #528 of 3206
Do the monstervision glasses or the zd201 glasses work with the 8000
post #529 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by billmac View Post

I have tried searching on both this thread and the one for the 7000 model to no avail, so please excuse me if this has been answered before. I just replaced my old 3000 with an 8000. It is hanging from a pole in the ceiling, which is aligned with the horizontal center of my 2.35:1 CIH screen. The 3000 and its dead center lens, worked great with the zoom memory lens feature. But the 8000's lens is about 3.75" off center. Using the awful joystick and the zoom / focus memory, I can fill the 1.78:1 area, but whenever I try to fill the 2.35:1 screen, the image falls a few inches to the left of the screen. I use the zoom and V-area to fill the vertical part, but there seems to be no way of centering the image without using the joystick, which would then reset the 1.78:1 setting. The H-Area control only crops the image.
Am I doing something wrong? It appears that the zoom lens memory feature does not work for CIH, unless the lens is horizontally centered with the screen. Help!
-bill

Thee's a way to deal with this; just remember these two iron-clad rules:

#1: Up/Down lens shift position is dictated by the 1.78:1 image

#2: Left/Right lens shift is dictated by the 2.35:1 image

In the case of #1, you "don't care" if the 1.78:1 image is not perfectly centered in the 2.35:1 screen. You only "care" if it is in the proper alignment vertically.

In the case of #2, you can use digital image shift to center the 2:35:1 picture vertically because you "don't care" if you are throwing away dark pixels above or below the viewable image. You only "care" if it is in the proper alignment horizontally.

Edit: I posted this tutorial for setting up the PT-AE3000U for CIH a few years ago. The principles still apply to the PT-AE8000U.
Edited by HMenke - 11/27/12 at 6:03pm
post #530 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

Thee's a way to deal with this; just remember these two iron-clad rules:
#1: Up/Down lens shift position is dictated by the 1.78:1 image
#2: Left/Right lens shift is dictated by the 2.35:1 image
......

HMenke, thanks for your very interesting and clever observations. I will try these steps as soon as I get home tonight and come back here with my results.

Cheers,
Bill
post #531 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by fcaico View Post

Speaking of all this: Is there any online guide to correctly mounting a projector? I am going to ceiling mount mine in a week or so and want to make sure I do it right.


I mounted my to a ceiling joist. If your not sure where get a stud finder. I would NOT mount it into sheetrock no matter what type of screws you used. Your mount should come with instructions.
post #532 of 3206
Thats not really what I meant... I meant more of a procedure for finding center and then aligning the projector.

As for mounting: I have DD + Clips & channel on my ceiling. In the general area where the projector is going, instead of the drywall, the first layer is a layer of plywood with drywall on top. I plan on screwing the projector through the drywall to the plywood so as not to break the sound decoupling of the ceiling. A layer of plywood should be plenty strong for holding the projector. I only hope the clips and channel are too :-)
post #533 of 3206
I apologize in advance for this being a troll post.

I just went to the UPS store to drop off my defective PT-AE8000U. When I took the box to the counter, the UPS guy says “Hey someone just dropped off this exact same box.” He points to behind the counter where, sure enough, there lies another PT-AE8000U box! Unfortunately the UPS guy wouldn’t let me take a picture of the two boxes nestled next to each other. Note: this was at the Leesburg, VA UPS store.

Now, this is just pure extrapolation, but if we assume that each UPS store gets 2 return-units shipped per day (~4,400 UPS stores in the US; ~60 days since launch), Panasonic could be looking at up to 528,000 defective units since launch. I’m guessing they haven’t even sold 1M units thus far, so we could be looking at some serious post-launch quality control issues.

I’m curious: out of the folks on this thread who have purchased, how many are satisfied with the first unit that they received?
post #534 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonSuave View Post

I apologize in advance for this being a troll post.
I just went to the UPS store to drop off my defective PT-AE8000U. When I took the box to the counter, the UPS guy says “Hey someone just dropped off this exact same box.” He points to behind the counter where, sure enough, there lies another PT-AE8000U box! Unfortunately the UPS guy wouldn’t let me take a picture of the two boxes nestled next to each other. Note: this was at the Leesburg, VA UPS store.
Now, this is just pure extrapolation, but if we assume that each UPS store gets 2 return-units shipped per day (~4,400 UPS stores in the US; ~60 days since launch), Panasonic could be looking at up to 528,000 defective units since launch. I’m guessing they haven’t even sold 1M units thus far, so we could be looking at some serious post-launch quality control issues.
I’m curious: out of the folks on this thread who have purchased, how many are satisfied with the first unit that they received?

Why did you send yours back?
post #535 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCoug View Post

Why did you send yours back?

Page 10, post #281. My first unit had convergence and focus issues; could not get a clear image. My replacement unit has a stuck pixel (blue) but much better convergence.
post #536 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

That is good to know about the bleeding though. It is nothing severe at all, it is literally like 1 pixel of a slight bleed to the right side of the text. I just did not know if this is normal or not being my first projector. I figured nothing was wrong since from like 3-4 feet away it isn't even noticeable.

Maybe others would disagree, but to me 1 pixel of misconvergence is not cause for declaring the unit defective. My 8000 shows 1 pixel of misconvergence along the right side of the screen, a vertical strip maybe 12" wide on my 103" diagonal 2.35:1 screen. I think it might be caused by the lens, not sure. But like you said, your eyes can't even resolve it at like 3-4 feet away, much less 12 of 15 feet away.

One thing I've learned as a three-time projector owner: these things are kind of expensive, and it's human nature to obsess and expect perfection. If you look closely for flaws...you will find them.

But here's my advice: relax! Realize that these machines are not perfect...but they are amazing! Bring any uninitiated person into your HT and I guarantee they will be absolutely blown away by the spectacle they see on screen. I have blown many people's minds demoing HD projection in the home. We are living the dream people! cool.gif
post #537 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by jacksback View Post

Hey guys
So I finally upgraded my PT-AE2000U projector and went with the 8000. Difference in quality? Night & Day!! The PT-AE8000U puts out the most amazing projected image I have ever seen, and just like some other person said, it's up there with the top of the range LED TVs, simply stunning!! Don't get me wrong, the PT-AE2000U was very impressive to watch but the 8000 completely destroys it!!
3D at first was a bit of a let down but after some fine tuning, it started looking better and better. The problem is I only have some side by side and top and bottom 3D content at my disposal which is probably adding noise to the image. I plan on buying some Real D Blu-Rays soon and will report back if it's much better. Saying that, I did see some of the best 3D I've ever seen. My suggestion to those not liking the 3D image is to set the brightness of the glasses to light (Found in the 3D menu while playing content). It makes the image much brighter and gives it a much more comfortable feel
My setup is the 8000 on a 120" glass beaded 1.3 gain screen and the medium size new generation Panasonic glasses.
I picked up the 8000 for $2195 from A&G (Brand New/Sealed B stock item), what a bargain!!!
Question regarding 3D auto detection, do I need a 1.4 HDMI cable to get that to work?
Thanks

Sorry to bother you, can you briefly explain the effect of a beaded screen and where you purchased it please? thanks.
post #538 of 3206
So I have a couple questions for you guys after putting that NEC image on my projector. I'll link to the hi-res pic I took on imgur.

http://i.imgur.com/07Icx.jpg

Also note, it is not centered because I wanted to take the pic sitting on a table that would keep the camera square to the screen.

So couple questions....

1. If you look at the top of the screen, you will see that the blocks go across properly as expected. However if you look at the screen you will notice that it staggers "up" 1 row of blocks. What could cause this to happen? I do know for a fact that my wall behind is not 100% smooth and that both corners of the screen are not flush on the wall due to this. But it is only off the wall by a very little bit. Could this cause this problem?

2. Please keep in mind this is my first projector ever so this may be a dumb question. I noticed that after focusing on that image and finding the best focus I could, that the top-center of the screen was more focused than the outer edges of the screen. This also seemed to cause the outer portions of the image to look a tad lighter, almost a hint of yellow color. I'm assuming this is due to the focus not being as good on the outer edge as it is in the center. Now keep in mind, it's not extremely noticeable or anything, and I didn't notice this at all watching some movie clips or playing a game for 20 minutes on there, but with this image I noticed it almost immediately. My projector is ceiling mounted as well, so basically it is pointing directly at the center top of the screen. So is that why it seems the most focused in that one area and not quite as focused in other areas? Again, nothing huge by any means but I'd like to be certain I don't have a defective unit.

3. My projector mount on my ceiling has a knob that can tilt the projector up/down. Could I fix these focus issues by basically tilting my projector so that it's aimed at the middle of my screen instead of the top of my screen, and then use the projectors analog stick thing to move the image up? Or would that essentially be doing the same thing it's doing now? As it sits now, it's basically pointed straight at the wall, parallel to the floor and I've used the analog stick thing to move the image down.

A couple of notes too...

The analog stick is a pain in the ass to move in one direction. It always moves to the side if just trying to go up/down and vice versa. And when you want to nudge it a tad, you have to over nudge it because it moves back just a bit from where you moved it to. It's annoying.

I also noticed that when focusing on the text in the "lens" screen that pops up, when I had it overlayed to the NEC image, that when the NEC image was focused the best, the overlay was not quite 100% in focus. And if I made the overlay 100% in focus, the NEC text was not 100% focused. Again it's VERY minor out of focus, but just something I noticed.
post #539 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

Maybe others would disagree, but to me 1 pixel of misconvergence is not cause for declaring the unit defective. My 8000 shows 1 pixel of misconvergence along the right side of the screen, a vertical strip maybe 12" wide on my 103" diagonal 2.35:1 screen. I think it might be caused by the lens, not sure. But like you said, your eyes can't even resolve it at like 3-4 feet away, much less 12 of 15 feet away.
One thing I've learned as a three-time projector owner: these things are kind of expensive, and it's human nature to obsess and expect perfection. If you look closely for flaws...you will find them.
But here's my advice: relax! Realize that these machines are not perfect...but they are amazing! Bring any uninitiated person into your HT and I guarantee they will be absolutely blown away by the spectacle they see on screen. I have blown many people's minds demoing HD projection in the home. We are living the dream people! cool.gif

I totally agree. I think it's a great value projector. Not going to beat a crazy expensive Runco or something, but will convince folks who don't think projectors are "there" yet that they are. My father-in-law was here last weekend. After about 20 minutes he says, "I've been in several of these rooms and never felt like I wanted one. Now I feel like I NEED one!" My wife, who has heard me talking about it for over a year and knew what level i was taking things to, was blown away and admits the room is more than she expected. I'm throwing a 143" diagonal (11 feet wide) 2.35:1 image on a $200 DIY Spandex screen, so I don't expect it to be tack sharp. But watching a movie from 14-15 feet away it looks very sharp. Nobody who has seen it has had a single negative thing to say about it.

No regrets about my purchase.
post #540 of 3206
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

Maybe others would disagree, but to me 1 pixel of misconvergence is not cause for declaring the unit defective. My 8000 shows 1 pixel of misconvergence along the right side of the screen, a vertical strip maybe 12" wide on my 103" diagonal 2.35:1 screen. I think it might be caused by the lens, not sure. But like you said, your eyes can't even resolve it at like 3-4 feet away, much less 12 of 15 feet away.
One thing I've learned as a three-time projector owner: these things are kind of expensive, and it's human nature to obsess and expect perfection. If you look closely for flaws...you will find them.
But here's my advice: relax! Realize that these machines are not perfect...but they are amazing! Bring any uninitiated person into your HT and I guarantee they will be absolutely blown away by the spectacle they see on screen. I have blown many people's minds demoing HD projection in the home. We are living the dream people! cool.gif

Hah yea it's my first one so I don't know exactly what to expect. I'm learning as I go along though smile.gif

And man I can't wait until this is all done and I have my seats and sound down there, cannot wait!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version)