Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 3

Has anyone ordered from ProjectorPoint before?

I think I may order mine from them tomorrow when they get it back in stock, just curious as to your experience with them.

Additionally, are there any specific lower profile ceiling mounts you all recommend? My ceiling is just under 8 feet high so I definitely want something lower profile.

So you're saying it would be an improvement over my current Panny AE3000?!

Does anyone know if there are discrtete IR codes for each INPUT on this PJ? I see from the user manual that the INPUT button cycles through the different inputs, but that does not lend itself to programming a remote sequence that says "Turn PJ ON, then switch to HDM1 input". My current PJ has dedicated buttons for each input (on the remote) so it was very easy to manage with my Logitech Remote.

Also, power OFF may be an issue.... seems you have to go through a confirmation menu when you press OFF.

Can anyone comment based on your experience programming IR remotes with older models such as AE4000/7000 etc?

Another question about the Pannys:

1) Can you set up the brightness, contrast etc and save it all into a custom user preset to be recalled at a later time? (Im positive answer is YES, so then next question:)
2) If you are in custom preset 1, and decide to change the brightness up by 3 notches, will the new setting be saved automatically, or do you have to specifically SAVE/REPLACE on top of your setting so it is a permanent change? I prefer the later, which is how my Sanyo operates. I do not like settings to be completely overwritten automatically by virtue of just moving sliders while performing quick tests....)

For those that have tried Game mode... is this mode going to allow me to calibrate the image, just as any other mode?
Also, Im assuming that at the very least, certain features will not be able to be turned ON, like FC, etc etc... all of that stuff makes for input lag, so I assume they disable them?

Thanks. The Sanyo I own has this feature and makes it awesome to tweak/revert as needed while calibrating etc. I do use it quite often actually.

Like the AE4000, the AE8000 has in the remote a button called "Function", which can be assigned to a function of your choice. In the AE4000, some of the possible "functions" to be assigned were the inputs. So in the past when I used multiple inputs, I used this to be able to make my Sony remote learn the signal of some of the inputs (now I use just a single input and change inputs only in the receiver, is much better).
Anyway, the doubt is that in the AE8000 manual, it seems you cannot assign an input, and instead, you might assign only one of the menu options (that's in the page 34 in the manual).

Even so, I would not be surprised if AE8000 reacts to the input codes of the AE4000 remote, so you could try this if you have access to the AE4000 codes.


Well, this should be simple, simply create a macro that hits the power button twice, that's how I do currently with AE4000.
Definetely.
It is not saved automatically (based on my AE4000 experience).

I'm noticing occasional brief choppiness from a variety of different sources, like frames are being dropped. I turned off frame creation, because I don't like how it makes movies look...is there some other setting I need to look into re: dropped frames?

...to be totally clear, I'm talking about 2D sources -- I haven't tried 3D yet. Also, all sources are via HDMI through a receiver that's never had problems before.
Edited by afurdell - 10/17/12 at 10:15pm

You want to do this: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1206105/panny-pt-ae4000u-over-rs232

it is the only way to control the Panny projectors, I assume it still works on the 8000?

It fixes both the problems that you have and many more.

Watched Madasgar 3 with my kids last night.

1) I was mesmerized by the EXCELLENT colors.
2) I couldnt believe this image came from a projector and not a LCD set.
3) I love this thing!

Next week I plan on diving int some real 3D movies and shows....

Well Mopar, like I said in my post, that is not the only way, as one can use the "Function" button on the panny remote to teach to a learning capable remote many commands that are not in the panny standard remote control (you make an iterative process where you first assign to the Function button a desided function, than you make your universal remote to learn the signal, and go to the next function). Assuming that the learning remote control has also macro capabilities, this allows you to perform some interesting procedures. And, at least in the case of AE4000, some of the functions you can assign to the Function button are the Input codes. I was able to create some interesting macros this way using just a $19 Sony remote control.

The AE8000 manual says that you can associate to the Function button one of the items in the menu. It is unclear if it allows you to choose "deep" itens like specific lens savings or picture adjustment savings.

I didn't literalley mean it was the ONLY way. Just that it is the best and most flexible way to control it. Single button for things like: OFF, Input, Lense Memory, Picture Modes, ect. I think the lense memory is the biggest one and something Panny should have seperate IR codes for and don't. Having to go into menus to pick a lense memory just doesn't make sense.

Let me first say that the 2D picture of the 8k seemed better than my RS40... even the black levels. The image also appears sharper and the colors seem more accurate. Granted, I have not calibrated it, but out of the box Cinema1 is fantastic in Economy lamp mode.

Anyway, my issue... I have it mounted from the ceiling 12 feet away and using a level, I have determined that it is perfectly level along with my new 120 inch screen. I used the lens shift joy stick (hate that thing) to make the final alignments. After all of that, I have key stoning issues, i.e. the top of the picture tapers in a little. Sure, with my 3 inch wide black projector screen frame, I can hide it, but it is noticeable when there is a 4:3 picture or when I access the menu system.

I keep verifying that it's level and I have never experienced this before with my 3 previous projectors all mounted in the same spot using the same mount. Is it possible that the lens is damaged? Maybe I can angle the projector down just a bit to fix this, but then I'm introducing slight focus issues. Anyone else experiencing this? I'm very picky, but for 3K it should have a perfectly square picture. Thanks.

Try this..I had that problem once before..I had to lower the unit physically and aim it up slightly..worked for me! good luck.

tklein2,

First the obvious (which we all overlook from time to time )...

Make sure the digital keystone setting has not been adjusted (have seen this one happen several times over the years).

Projector is level front to back and side to side (which is probably what you have already checked several times).

Make sure your screen is not only level across the top/bottom but also not tilted in/out from top to bottom (maybe the wall it is mounted to, if it is a fixed frame screen, is slightly tilted (few are perfect).

You may very well be causing some lens distortion if you are using an extreme amount of lens shift, although keystoning is not often what happens there.

If the keystone is slight you can actually slightly tilt your screen to compensate if you have tried everything else.

Of course an actual defect is always possible but I would guess that 95% of the time issues like this are correctable and not defects.

Best of luck,
Jason

Sorry to the thread for the OT discussion

Mods, can we merge the two Panny AE8000 threads please?

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1432437/official-owners-thread-panasonic-pt-ae8000u-us-version-pt-at6000e-european-version/60

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1422718/panasonic-pt-ae8000u-us-version-pt-at6000e-european-version-ifa-berlin-2012-new-lcd-1080p-3d-projector/480

How are you measuring level of the projector? Putting the level on the mount or the pj case?

If so, how can you be sure that the light path is exactly in line with the mount or case? It may not be by design. A few degrees could be the whole difference.

My suggestion... square up the image to the screen frame by adjusting the pj or mount and call it a day.

I'm happy to report that it was user error. It turned out that the new screen I installed was not true! After taking it down and readjusting it, everything looks great! Panasonic's 8k image appears to be perfectly true. Sorry if I got you guys nervous and thanks for the help.

Hi Guys,

I have just upgraded to the new Panny 8000 from an old Panny 4000. Before that I had a Sanyo Z4 or Z5, can't recall the model exactly now...and before that I was on an Infocus and an ACER Pj too somewhere in between . So I have been changing PJ's every 3 years or so since the past 10yrs.

And I have never seen something so good. It seems to rival the image quality at VMAX multiplexes here in Sydney!!

The colors are great...brightness incredible...short of words on this one. Blacks are great. V smooth images and scenes. I can just go and on praising this beauty.

The difference in the quality of image between my Samsung 3D LED TV and this projector has narrowed down tremendously. In fact so much so, that I can say I do not think the projectors image to be inferior in any way than my tellys !
Its night and day compared to my old 4000U.
I never thought some day I would be saying that there is no difference between a PJ and a Telly...Just that a PJ can give you an image of around 125inches which telly's cant today ! ( As far as I think)
Its worth every dollar of the $2800 I paid for it !!

I was watching IMAX Whales and Dolphins in 3D today. My first trial disc. the 3D was awesome. Bright enough, Incredible 3D. Feels like you are swimming with the Giants! V smooth and no ghosting at all. My TV has a lot of ghosting compared to this one then !
I don't know why the 3D Motion Remaster tab was greyed out on the MENU. Does anyone know why can't I access the 3D Motion Remaster function on the 3D menu ? Thanks guys.

IF anyone needs any more details about this PJ..feel free to ask. I just got it this morning ! And I am loving it !
I am sounding like a teenage kid after his first kiss !! Ain't I ?

Thanks for your answer.
Well, I think I did set the Frame Creation to 2 in the Advanced mode for my 2D movie. Would I need to set it again for 3D ? Will do that let you know how it goes.
Cheers
Vik

nobody else is having the choppy playback issue? Just me?

Nope . Playback for me is pretty smooth. No choppiness whatsoever to report; here. But again, I haven't connected it to a DVR or a Cable Box. I just use a BD Player and a Media Player.
Hope you get your choppiness issues sorted out soon.
Have you tried enabling the Frame Rate multiplier ?

I have both the PJs set up next to each other i.e 4K and 8K. I use the older one for watching TV series etc now .
And when I use the remote for either one of them, both of them get switched on !!
Now I gotta remove the one not in use from the main power source so that it stays switched off .

Seems like you are already into cleaning the thing.
Well, I have not started investigating the mechanics of the PJ yet. So can't help you there.
I ll clean the filter when I reach the 100 hour mark,

Mostly PC, but I think I remember seeing it with TV too. I need to keep a closer eye on it. Today I reset all the settings to factory in case I accidentally touched something I shouldn't have.

Yup, it worked once I set Frame Creation. It was not set in 3D mode.
Thanks for the help.
Cheers