Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 26

I am glad that i am not busy with al kinds of numbers but just look at my picture and it looks great.

I have tried al the picture modes and i use Dynamic(eco). Why: because of the incredible brightness. Don't care that the colors are not 100% accurate. I find that rec709 awful.

Oh yes: i am projecting on a white wall. I had the chance to see it on a 2000$ screen and the difference was only subtle TO ME.

In 3D i use Dynamic (normal) and project a 140'' picture. Many will find it to dimm. I do not and find it a totally immersive experience.

Bottom line: don't get to caught up in all kinds of numbers and just look at yout picture and enjoy your movies or gaming.

Yawn. Please go away and take a spelling class while you're at it.

Touché

If you have the equipment, no harm in calibrating when the projector is new (I ran my new X35 for about 10 hours before running an autocal on mine as it only takes about 30 minutes on my setup).

I know the other poster isn't popular, but to be fair I did find something similar when I had my old AE3000: It could be calibrated to be pretty accurate (apart from the lack of gamma controls on that model) but it ended up quite dim even for my relatively modest 112" wide 2.35:1 screen. I did calibrate Normal mode too, but found that the colour gamut needed a lot of work to pull it in and the greyscale took some adjustment, which in turn made the final calibrated image less bright. If you weren't so bothered about being accurate, then you could use normal mode and not calibrate it, but that's not for me personally. Have a look at Cine4home's review to see what they managed to get once calibrated with the AT6000E as I think it's improved over my old AE3000, though I still think that they aren't as bright once calibrated as Panasonic would like us to believe.

I didn't read all 700+ posts, but is there a site you can buy the 8000 and add on an extended warranty?

I don't have specific information on extended warranty. But, Panasonic is running a special right now and they are extending the warranty from 2 to 3 years. On top of that you will have 2 pair of 3D glasses and a $100 cash rebate.

This special ends on December 31st. But, you need to buy a brand new unit (no B-stock units) and you must buy it from an authorized Panasonic reseller. I hope this helps!

Thanks for the tip. Thing is even with the 3 year warranty, they limit it to 3000 hours. With my usage that's like 18 months.

Actually the way that I understood is this: they are extending the warranty to 3 years, but the number of hours is still 2000.

I don't have my rebate form with me now, but I'm almost positive that is the way that it is described in the fine print. I'll check this when I'm back home, but if other folks here can chime in to clarify it would be great.

So, if you don't mind me asking, how many hours do you put on the PJ on a regular week?

It's my regular tv. Approx 6 hours a day. So like 50 a week. I don't mind buying bulbs with my usage. If 70+ inch led tvs were cheaper I'd just go that route

Oh, that explains the number of hours then.

In my case, I basically use it for movies or something really big on TV (football games). So, it is more a casual viewing at my basement.

Yea I wish my basement was finished but my tv room has a great setup for a projector. Doesn't make sense to buy a 70" tv and surround sound when I can go the projector route.

Just picked up my PT-AE8000U today! Got it for $2,550 canadian before taxes with a free replacement lamp and two pairs of glasses. I CAN'T WAIT TO SET IT UP! I just need my mount to arrive now.

Where did u get it

Vision's Electronics in Vancouver, BC

Point well taken, if you have the equipment as you say. If you are paying someone to do it, allowing for a break-in period before calibration is wise IMO.

Maybe that's what he was trying to say, and it may be true. If so, that's fine - the projector is what it is. For me the issue is the lack of credibility coupled with the awkward strength of the claims.

In my home theater and for my tastes, excess brightness isn't very welcome for 2D. The brighter the image, the more reflected light from the room tends to wash out the blacks on screen. Also, sitting in a totally darkened theater, your eyes can become very well adjusted and super bright scenes can almost be painful after a dark scene.

For 3D, it's a different story: the more light, the better and I will give up some accuracy to get more light for watching 3D.
Edited by HMenke - 12/13/12 at 10:00am

Definitely wouldn't pay a Pro for a calibration until at least 100 hours maybe 150 just to make sure that there are no early failure issues and to give the lamp chance to bed in.

I hear what you're saying about 2D, but I found I was only getting about 9fL out of my AE3000 after calibration in normal mode and about 5fL in Colour 1 mode, so it was just too dim. I''m in the process of improving my room, but as a test I put up some black sheeting across the ceiling and down the sides of the screen and it made a huge difference to the picture quality. If you can't do this then perhaps a more directional screen would help minimise the washout of the side walls and ceiling reflecting back to the screen.

I know what you mean about bright scenes being almost painful after a dark scene. The thing I like best though is when there is a fade to black from a fairly bright scene and for a few seconds I feel like I'm in complete darkness. My AE3000 couldn't do this as it wasn't bright enough to start with, but if they have improved the true on/off contrast on later models they should be able to do this trick now. Having a film night tonight as my partner is out doing Christmas shopping, so a lad's night in watching films.

Trying to curtail reflections is key. My walls are painted dark eggplant semiflat, but my ceiling is still white. I placed four 2' x 4' (610mm x 1219mm) black fabric acoustic panels on the ceiling, which covers up a lot of the exposed white area and yet doesn't look as odd as a black ceiling would look. The same type of panels under the screen and on the side walls adds to the light absorption. Still, my screen is 1.0 gain, so perhaps something with more gain (and therefore more directional) would be helpful.

+1 from me too!

I initially painted the screen wall a dark red color, and after doing more research ended up painting my ceiling as well as a side wall the same color for reflection purposes.

Now if only I could paint the carpet too ...

But my speakers will eventually be right under the screen (2 subs and a center) which should absorb the light that is now currently reflecting on the carpet, which honestly isn't too bothersome by any means.

I received the AE8000 a few days ago. You guys think I'll be ok projecting on a 2.35:1 136" Carada BW 1.4 gain from 18'6" (ceiling mounted) ??
We briefly set it up at the new house to make sure it worked but was projected on a concrete wall.
I used the projector calculators found online and it says I'll be at about 16 FL. Not sure how much that can be trusted.
I would like to run the PJ in Eco Mode to save on bulb if possible and the quieter operation would be a plus.
Trying to decide between 128" or 136" cinema-scope screen from the mounting distance stated above.
Think it'll work decent? I can go bask as far as 25' from lens to screen or as close as 18'6".

You'll be able to easily fit that from 18'6". I just received my Da-lite HP 142" 2.35:1 motorized screen the other day but haven't put it up yet. My projector is at 19.3 feet back and I projected the 142" 2.35:1 image on my wall as a test and I still had room to zoom in and out so you'll definitely be able to fit that image easily.

Keep it at the 18'6" distance if you can so you don't have too much light drop off from placing it further back. I tested mine in Eco mode too and it looked pretty good on a flat white wall. I can't wait to test this on my new Da-lite 2.4 gain HP screen in Eco mode!
Edited by Special FX_45 - 12/13/12 at 2:20pm

If your projection distance is 18' 6", then you will need to go with the 136" screen. See this table as per Panasonic's website. If you try to go with the 128" you are almost at max on Telephoto.






* When projecting both 2.35:1 and 16:9 images onto a 2.35:1 screen using the Lens Memory function.

Here is the link for others trying to use screens with a different aspect ratio.

http://panasonic.net/avc/projector/products/ae8000/positions.html

HMenke, you've got some nerve
Credibility you say? Well, I am certified LII for ISF, THX, HAA and I am working on the field for some time now. What about you?
Awkward strength of the claims? Well, I am sorry if I didn't put on my silk glove to cuddle with the owners around here, but IMHO a projector that yields 9fL with a brand new lamp when at its best (i.e REC709) that's what I call awkward and not OK, at all.
I admit I was very straightforward with my language and didn't really care for the people that have invested in this projector in this thread. I am sorry for that, that was indelicate, inappropriate and maybe not even the right place to do so.
But I think that your reaction was rude. Beats me, I didn't use any language and I didn't flame anybody.
As for the spelling, when you speak 4 languages and English is not your mother tongue, cut me some slack.
And at last, the measurements I posted at the request of a fellow member, they are not in anyway representative of a full calibration, not even a partial one usually performed in the market (grayscale only), BUT again IMHO getting those measurements, in only 1 hour, and they are very close believe me, then that's a challenge. And you can achieve that only if you have the right equipment, the knowledge and the experience.
Now do these measurements look scary? Yes they do and that's what it took to bring the Normal preset to a "semblance" of normality at an acceptable light output of 16fL on a 130" Gain 1.0 screen.

Members and non-members that visit this thread come not only to give each other a pat on the back as owners but also to weigh the possibility of buying this projector. I think that they should know its shortcomings beforehand. Non-the less it is a good projector with other advantages.

I have complete credibility as an enthusiastic amateur and relatively knowledgeable hobbyist, nothing more and I don't claim more. Professional credibility in a field doesn't come from a paper certification...it comes from personal capability and others' belief in that capability. I'm sorry but the way you presented your message was obnoxious and did not give you credibility. Do you also go into people's homes as a guest and immediately denounce the poor quality of their furniture? My primary reaction was to your manner more than anything else.

I apologize if my words have been rude and/or hurtful. My remark about spelling was not fair. Speaking four languages is awesome!

Your point is well-taken. I agree that information is power and should be shared...but perhaps some diplomacy and tact would help improve the communication next time.

Thank you! Glad I asked before purchasing. I now remember us having to zoom almost all the way in, we were in a big hurry to get out of the electricians way.
How will I ever live with a 136" screen. Woe is me.

If you are concerned about the 136" screen, then go for a 150"............

Don't forget to report back on your impressions on your combo (PJ and screen).

Cheers!

Is anyone using lens memory adjustments (ie: 16:9 to 2:35 aspect ratios) with their projector mounted with the lense center above the top of their screen (ceiling mounted)?

Basically my current projector lens center is about 10 inches above the screen top (viewing area) with my viewsonic Pro8100. It has motorized lens shift, zoom and focus but not memory.

Does the lens memory work with the projector above the screen? The tables in the panasonic brochure for setup makes it seem like it is possible but I read in teh past that for it to work with the old AE4000 the lens had to be within the screen area.

Thanks for any input anyone can give.
Ron

Yeah, tell me about it. Story of my life. I know I suck in communication. Point taken.
I gladly accept your apology and I, too, apologize for being obnoxious.

Thanks...we're cool now!

And thanks for your contribution. Sounds like when the REC709 mode is actually calibrated, the light output drops pretty low. Do you have any idea why that would happen? And therefore you calibrated the Normal mode instead, and in a quick one-hour session you were able to get it pretty close and still maintain good if not excellent brightness. Do I understand that right?

Yes, you do. I don't want somebody to jump at my throat again but this kind of results you only get with poorly built equipment.
You see, all projectors lose some of their light output when calibrated, and this is because you actually set the boundaries well under the manufacturer's limit, where there is no stress on the components.
I hope I am making myself clear using this simple analogy.
In well built projectors, that usually cost a lot more, you lose only a little of the potential output.
At the Panny's price range, well... it's different...except maybe for an exception or two that I won't name here of course.