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Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 29

post #841 of 1601
I have finally installed my AE8000U (ceiling mount) and have the screen Elite Peregrine 115" (2.35:1 ratio) last night. After spending plenty of time on trying to setup 2.35:1 image, I finally gave up around 1 am. Could you please point me to (I am sure there is one here!) setup procedure for a widescreen image on this projector? Also, what is a good movie to setup this image size - I tried with Batman - The Dark Knight Rises and Tangled and no dice with either of them. Please - make me good in front of my kids (and wife)!!
post #842 of 1601
So anyone have any of their calibration settings? I've just been using REC079 mode with default settings, which looks decent, but I'm sure it can look better.

I've also noticed how the blacks on this projector aren't that great, especially when watching 2.35:1 content on it with the black bars. They aren't nearly as black as the velvet border, which I personally am starting to notice a lot when other black material blends into the black bars. I think part of it is that I'm spoiled by my plasma in my living room as well.

But don't get me wrong, it still looks awesome, I just wish I wasn't paying attention to things like this lol. Before I started coming here regularly a few months ago, these are things I would have never noticed.
post #843 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdfanatic View Post

Someone else touched on this topic regarding focus, but I thought I should chime in on how it affects the Panasonic's 3D feature.
Setting the focus on this projector is tricky, and having the correct focus is imperative to the 3D performance. I tried this twice, focusing through the Panasonic menus where it instantly shows you a grid and you can very precisely focus to that grid. Both times focusing this way gave me a soft and very slightly blurry 2D picture (when watching a movie) and it adversely affected the 3D performance. I viewed Prometheus 3D this way and saw several places with ghosting/crosstalk which were mostly slight issues, but there were a few places where ghosting was glaringly obvious, e.g. white opening credit text, and then the scene 20 minutes in where they go into Charlize's fancy room and the (green screen) forest image in the back is hardly visible due to crosstalk. I didn't realize this was due to my focus, but I kinda knew that my focus seemed to be slightly off in the 2D special features, So instead of focusing on the grid or text, I focused my projector on a close-up of a man's face by twisting the focus ring on the lens and pushing the focus buttons on the side of the projector, i.e. I didn't go through the menus since (going through the menus forces you to focus on their grid). Once I focused on the details of a person's face, the 3D before and after was almost night and day. I didn't see ghosting in white text in the opening credits, and ghosting in places (like the back of Charlize's room) was no longer there, or hardly visible, but mostly just not there. And the 3D picture looked sharper and clearer, which I didn't know was out of focus to begin with since the focus was very slightly off. Also, strangely, the 3D image looked brighter. So overall, the 3D on this projector looks amazing! Although, of course, not as bright as 2D b/c of the glasses, but it still looks amazing. smile.gif

I noticed the 3D on Finding Nemo for my quick demo last weekend was pretty bad. I was really disappointed with it. Maybe it was just a focus issue, as I've been messing with it recently. I'll give that a check out tonight too.

Also, when you click the Lens button and go into the focus menu, if you press the center button twice you can focus/zoom on the video output on the projector instead of the grid screens.

Also, does changing focus on the projector itself by twisting the lens do anything different than doing it with the buttons on the remote?
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

There was an attempt to deliver a signature-required package to my home today, but no one was here when the delivery arrived. If anyone already got their free glasses, do you remember if they had to be signed for?

Mine came USPS and they just left them at the house.
post #844 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by beekay View Post

I have finally installed my AE8000U (ceiling mount) and have the screen Elite Peregrine 115" (2.35:1 ratio) last night. After spending plenty of time on trying to setup 2.35:1 image, I finally gave up around 1 am. Could you please point me to (I am sure there is one here!) setup procedure for a widescreen image on this projector? Also, what is a good movie to setup this image size - I tried with Batman - The Dark Knight Rises and Tangled and no dice with either of them. Please - make me good in front of my kids (and wife)!!

Here's a post that might help!
post #845 of 1601
Thank you!
post #846 of 1601
Can anyone recommend several reputable dealers offering the best deals either from this website or B&M stores that carry this unit. I've decided to stick with Panny over the Epson although I wish Panasonic would come out with a wireless feature too.
Thanks in advance
post #847 of 1601
Thanks HMenke, that helps with focusing! I did not notice that. smile.gif

Rstahl and Purbeast, I thought focusing through the menus only allowed you to focus to the grids that default on when using that function; I didn't realize that it actually showed the picture once you hit the ENTER button a certain number of times. So I'm not sure if focusing with the focus ring vs. the remote, is the better option. Focus ring kinda seems to give you better range but it's kinda difficult since you're so far away from the screen. I do know that focusing on grids and text, which is how I usually would focus with previous DLP projector, wasn't allowing me to focus precisely; not sure why. And it was a very slight issue when my focus was off. I don't think most people would've known my focus was off, and I did not realize that it would affect the 3D and the 3D brightness; probably because it was causing the two left & right 1080p 3D images to slightly bleed into each other, which also affected active shutter effect through the glasses.

Purbeast, the 3D image should look crisp and sharp; and the depth should look really good, especially if you're projecting on a large screen. If it doesn't, you probably are experiencing what I went through! smile.gif
post #848 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

But don't get me wrong, it still looks awesome, I just wish I wasn't paying attention to things like this lol. Before I started coming here regularly a few months ago, these are things I would have never noticed.

That can be the problem on these forums at times. A wealth of knowledge, but also, if you read too much you may never buy anything ever again!
post #849 of 1601
I'm playing with the AE8000 now. Trying to find a happy medium on screen size. My seating distance is locked in with front row at 10'6" eyes to screen and second row at around 16' eyes to screen. I was originally going to buy a 136" 2.35:1 screen but it's way too big for my taste from the front row. I'm down to 120" 2.35:1 screen as of now but it still seems too big from front row but perfect in the second row. I'm thinking of sitting in front row for sports and 16:9 content as this seems about perfect and the second row for scope material. I was just watching Mongol which is a scope movie. The subtitles are off the screen (bed sheet). I'm assuming I'll have to buy an Oppo for the subtitle shift? I read somewhere there is a Phillips player but I know better than to buy anything they make smile.gif Anyone else using a different method for subtitles or an Oppo and how do you like it? I guess I should clarify my point. When using the subtitle shift is it ruining certain movies for people having to put it up into viewable area when there are multiple lines of text?

Here is a picture from my phone just for fun. Tons of ambient light and projected onto a tan wall with almond bed sheet with white ceilings.
This pic is taken from my front row seating distance. Can't wait to get into my new house!


Edited by Cobb28 - 12/18/12 at 10:23am
post #850 of 1601
I have an Oppo 93 and i use subtitle shift al the time with my AE8000. Great feature.
post #851 of 1601
Official "owner". Just haven't received it yet. Coming with a 120" SI 16:9 screen. I think the 8x theater seats (Escapes from Roman), projector, and screen will all arrive Thursday. Going into my new media room. Grabbed the peerless PRGUNV mount as well as it was mentioned several times in this thread. Thanks all for sharing your experiences.
post #852 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by purbeast View Post

So anyone have any of their calibration settings? I've just been using REC079 mode with default settings, which looks decent, but I'm sure it can look better.
I've also noticed how the blacks on this projector aren't that great, especially when watching 2.35:1 content on it with the black bars. They aren't nearly as black as the velvet border, which I personally am starting to notice a lot when other black material blends into the black bars. I think part of it is that I'm spoiled by my plasma in my living room as well.
But don't get me wrong, it still looks awesome, I just wish I wasn't paying attention to things like this lol. Before I started coming here regularly a few months ago, these are things I would have never noticed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

It might come down to expectations and personal response to light levels. It seems like you have a strong preference for bright, snappy images.
When I watch 2D, my priorities are: 1) Sharpness/Detail 2) Smooth Motion 3) Accurate Color 4) Proper Brightness 5) Proper Contrast (neither too bright nor too dark; would rather err too dark than too bright).
With 3D, my newfound priorities are 1) Proper Spatial Geometry/Depth of Field 2) Sharpness/Detail 3) Smooth Motion 4) Acceptable Brightness (maybe not as bright as 2D viewed with the naked eye, but bright enough that shadow detail is fully visible) 5) Minimal Crosstalk 6) Proper Contrast
Here are my settings at the moment with respect to picture adjustments (screen: 103" diagonal 2.35:1, white with 1.1 gain):
REC709 (2D)
  • Contrast -4
  • Brightness +4
  • Color +1
  • Tint +4
  • Lamp ECO
  • Dynamic Iris OFF
  • Gamma (Default)
  • Color Temperature (Default)
  • Sharpness 0
  • Detail Clarity +3
  • Frame Creation MODE2
  • Super White Off
  • (In Blu-ray player DMP-BDT310: Black Level Control = Darker)
DYNAMIC (3D)
  • Contrast -16
  • Brightness +5
  • Color -4
  • Tint +4
  • Lamp NORMAL
  • Dynamic Iris OFF
  • Gamma (Default)
  • Color Temperature (Default)
  • Sharpness 0
  • Detail Clarity +4
  • Frame Creation MODE2
  • Eyewear Brightness NORMAL
  • 3D Motion Remaster ON
  • Super White Off
  • (In Blu-ray player DMP-BDT310: Black Level Control = Darker)
It helps to take full advantage of the PICTURE MEMORY feature for these settings.
One thing you might try for 3D: set up a lens memory to zoom down the size of the image, which will have the effect of brightening it. Then sit closer! biggrin.gif



I've been using these and I am pretty happy with the results, thanks to Hmenke...again!
post #853 of 1601
Is anyone using the peerless prg-unv mount for their AE8000u and if so, which holes did you use to mount on the bottom of the projector? I have mine mounted, though I'm not sure how much I should spread them out or does it more matter that you're using all four holes and that the mount is centered on the projector.
post #854 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by azula View Post

I've been using these and I am pretty happy with the results, thanks to Hmenke...again!

Hey that's pretty cool! Glad it worked out well for you.

I wanted to follow up with a couple of tweaks:
  • For 3D in Dynamic Mode, the Sharpness control has a default value of 0 but can go to -2. At the default value of 0, there is edge enhancement/ringing/ghosting added, so I took it all the way down to -2 to get rid of that aberration. In other modes the default value of 0 is as low as the control will go.
  • As others have said, Frame Creation is more aggressive on the 8000 than previous models so tread lightly. For 60p sources, I am leaving it OFF. For 24p sources I am leaving it in MODE1. The problem with 60Hz sources seems to be that the processor just can't keep up with the frame rate and starts to stutter during motion...exactly the opposite effect of what you are trying to achieve by using it in the first place (smoother motion with less judder).
  • Be sure to make good use of the Picture Memory feature to save various setups for different Picture Modes and sources. Picture Memory is one of my favorite things about the 8000.
post #855 of 1601
Thanks, HMenke!!!! Worked like a charm...I had to adjust my projector position a little bit, but the lens memory function is great! 'Daddy fixed the projector!' - made me look like a hero (which is not very often!). Will post my screen pic once I'm all done
post #856 of 1601
Alright beekay! Way to go! There's no pressure like the pressure to look like a hero to your kids! biggrin.gif

Next time you use it, after the projector's been warmed up for an hour or so, you'll want to go back and check your focus in both modes. If you find it needs to be adjusted, then go ahead and re-save the lens memory with the new adjustment. I have found focus on this projector to be very stable...I have not had to make any focus adjustments since making my initial "warmed-up" settings. This is a big improvement over my 3000, which used to drift over time on focus.
post #857 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobb28 View Post

I'm playing with the AE8000 now. Trying to find a happy medium on screen size. My seating distance is locked in with front row at 10'6" eyes to screen and second row at around 16' eyes to screen. I was originally going to buy a 136" 2.35:1 screen but it's way too big for my taste from the front row. I'm down to 120" 2.35:1 screen as of now but it still seems too big from front row but perfect in the second row. I'm thinking of sitting in front row for sports and 16:9 content as this seems about perfect and the second row for scope material. I was just watching Mongol which is a scope movie. The subtitles are off the screen (bed sheet). I'm assuming I'll have to buy an Oppo for the subtitle shift? I read somewhere there is a Phillips player but I know better than to buy anything they make smile.gif Anyone else using a different method for subtitles or an Oppo and how do you like it? I guess I should clarify my point. When using the subtitle shift is it ruining certain movies for people having to put it up into viewable area when there are multiple lines of text?
Here is a picture from my phone just for fun. Tons of ambient light and projected onto a tan wall with almond bed sheet with white ceilings.
This pic is taken from my front row seating distance. Can't wait to get into my new house!

I have very similar distances than yours (10.5' front row, 17' second row) and find our screen size quite well suited. We typically sit in the front row for everything, though many guests prefer the second row. We were height limited, so figured out the biggest 16:9 screen our room could handle, then widened it to 2.37:1.

Our screen is 129" wide 2.37:1 (144" diagonal). The 16:9 area is equivalent to a 111" diagonal screen.
post #858 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobb28 View Post

I'm playing with the AE8000 now. Trying to find a happy medium on screen size. My seating distance is locked in with front row at 10'6" eyes to screen and second row at around 16' eyes to screen. I was originally going to buy a 136" 2.35:1 screen but it's way too big for my taste from the front row. I'm down to 120" 2.35:1 screen as of now but it still seems too big from front row but perfect in the second row. I'm thinking of sitting in front row for sports and 16:9 content as this seems about perfect and the second row for scope material. I was just watching Mongol which is a scope movie. The subtitles are off the screen (bed sheet). I'm assuming I'll have to buy an Oppo for the subtitle shift? I read somewhere there is a Phillips player but I know better than to buy anything they make smile.gif Anyone else using a different method for subtitles or an Oppo and how do you like it? I guess I should clarify my point. When using the subtitle shift is it ruining certain movies for people having to put it up into viewable area when there are multiple lines of text?
Here is a picture from my phone just for fun. Tons of ambient light and projected onto a tan wall with almond bed sheet with white ceilings.
This pic is taken from my front row seating distance. Can't wait to get into my new house!

I can comment too since I went through the same thing.

I have a 2.35 screen 136" wide.
First row is about 10' 6" in upright position and 11' 8" in reclined position.
Second row is about 16' 5" in upright position and 17' 7" in reclined position.

Prior to my build I was a little worried that 136" would have been too big. Like you I had done some tests before and thought it was too big. In the end, I figured the back row would have a great seat, front row would look great for 16x9. Plus you can never go bigger, but you could always add some type of masking if you still think the screen is too big.

I can say I'm extremely glad I went with the bigger size. There's an initial shock at first, but I've grown to love the size and don't find myself scanning the screen like I thought I would from the front row.
I prefer the front row now not just because it's the D-Box row, but I just like the screen filling up my viewing area. I think it will make a great impact with 3D too.

My friends recently said they may like the back row better. So it just depends upon the viewer preference.

I initally was going to go with a 140" wide and scaled down to 136". If your seats are like mine, you'll gain another foot away from the screen by reclining which is what most people do anyways.


Here are some pics:

16x9 masking panels




2.35
post #859 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by MovieMonkey View Post

Is anyone using the peerless prg-unv mount for their AE8000u and if so, which holes did you use to mount on the bottom of the projector? I have mine mounted, though I'm not sure how much I should spread them out or does it more matter that you're using all four holes and that the mount is centered on the projector.

I have that mount and I just lined it up so that the mount was about centered on the projector housing. The adjustable brackets were moved around as needed for that. As sturdy as that mount is, I doubt that placement of the mount relative to the projector is that relevant, as long as everything is tightened down.
post #860 of 1601
Nice Theater mcascio! I am assuming you have the pt-ae8000U? What is your throw distance?
post #861 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post


16x9 masking panels

Pretty cool room Mario....congrats!

Could you please share more info on the masking panels that you are using with your screen?

TIA
post #862 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by MysticalJet View Post

Nice Theater mcascio! I am assuming you have the pt-ae8000U? What is your throw distance?

On a theater build like his I'd seriously doubt he's running a projector in my price range! smile.gif mcasio is sitting in my dream theater. Nicest home build I've ever seen hands down IMO. It'd bring me to tears if I ever saw it in person. I was originally going to try and copy a lot of what he did but we don't have the budget for it. Some day it may be possible. Thanks for chiming in mcascio and jamis, it's nice to be able to identify with others in the same situation, helps give me some more perspective. I'm going to try 120" scope again tonight and then 128" and see what happens. I went to the new house and put painters tape up and made an outline of the screen dimensions on the movie wall. Doesn't look so big on a 20' wide wall now. I'd take the PJ and a source over there but I live in Fargo and if you've been here before in the dead of winter, you know what I mean. I almost made a post in this thread complaining about image noise until after messing with the settings for an hour and a half I realized I was critiquing all my favorite movies, most of which are from the early 90s lol. I'd see a huge bright blue sky and notice a little image noise on solid colors. I finally realized it and put in the newest movie I own (Prometheus) and OMG! There is the image I was looking for. Perfect.
post #863 of 1601
My two pair of free / rebate 3D glasses arrived today. Size Medium easily fits over my heavy-rimmed prescription eyeglasses, so I'm really pleased with their sizing. They're charging right now, so I'll be back with impressions vs. the Xpand YOUinversal X104's later!

post #864 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

My two pair of free / rebate 3D glasses arrived today. Size Medium easily fits over my heavy-rimmed prescription eyeglasses, so I'm really pleased with their sizing. They're charging right now, so I'll be back with impressions vs. the Xpand YOUinversal X104's later!

Awesome! There aren't too many reviews of this projector so far since it's so new. I'm sending my rebate in the morning.
Seems 3D is still up in the air from what I've read. Some love it, others hate it. I can deal with 3D not being the best ever as long as I'm not reading about exploding bulbs and such hehe.
post #865 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobb28 View Post

On a theater build like his I'd seriously doubt he's running a projector in my price range! smile.gif mcasio is sitting in my dream theater. Nicest home build I've ever seen hands down IMO. It'd bring me to tears if I ever saw it in person. I was originally going to try and copy a lot of what he did but we don't have the budget for it. Some day it may be possible. Thanks for chiming in mcascio and jamis, it's nice to be able to identify with others in the same situation, helps give me some more perspective. I'm going to try 120" scope again tonight and then 128" and see what happens. I went to the new house and put painters tape up and made an outline of the screen dimensions on the movie wall. Doesn't look so big on a 20' wide wall now. I'd take the PJ and a source over there but I live in Fargo and if you've been here before in the dead of winter, you know what I mean. I almost made a post in this thread complaining about image noise until after messing with the settings for an hour and a half I realized I was critiquing all my favorite movies, most of which are from the early 90s lol. I'd see a huge bright blue sky and notice a little image noise on solid colors. I finally realized it and put in the newest movie I own (Prometheus) and OMG! There is the image I was looking for. Perfect.

On the first page of his build he has the PT-ae4000 listed as his projector.... not sure if that is up to date. With today's machines, you don't need to spend a years salary for high performance. Not saying the more expensive projectors aren't worth it but the sub $5000 machines these days are pretty amazing.
post #866 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

My two pair of free / rebate 3D glasses arrived today. Size Medium easily fits over my heavy-rimmed prescription eyeglasses, so I'm really pleased with their sizing. They're charging right now, so I'll be back with impressions vs. the Xpand YOUinversal X104's later!

When did you mail in your rebate? I sent mine in two weeks ago and was wondering when mine will come in.
post #867 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobb28 View Post

Awesome! There aren't too many reviews of this projector so far since it's so new. I'm sending my rebate in the morning.
Seems 3D is still up in the air from what I've read. Some love it, others hate it. I can deal with 3D not being the best ever as long as I'm not reading about exploding bulbs and such hehe.

I know what you mean about 3D. My Panny 8000 is my first experience with it. Sometimes it can be convincing, even on programming from DirecTV. Other times, not so much. ESPN3D looks really nice, but I find myself distracted by 3D, making it more difficult to follow the game.

I bought a pair of Sony 3D glasses to see how it looked on my KDL-55EX720. Seems that even tho the Panasonic and Sony glasses are both IR, the Panasonic ones won't work on the Sony. Anyway, for what it is worth, the Panny is much better on 3D. Lots of ghosting on the Sony on both blu ray and DirecTV programming, even with the glasses set to medium instead of light or auto. But, this is a mid line Sony, so perhaps that is the reason. BTW, the Sony glasses are much heavier than the Panasonics.
post #868 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by hjones View Post

When did you mail in your rebate? I sent mine in two weeks ago and was wondering when mine will come in.

I mailed it in Nov. 1 and the first attempt to deliver the glasses was Dec. 17...makes it about six weeks.
post #869 of 1601
So I cant seem to get 3D to look right.
I've noticed LOTS of ghosting/Crosstalk and I know its there because it remains even when I close one eye. We arent talking about a rare event either and I see it on ALL of the 3D material im watching.
Also, on movies like Brave - where pausing the film brings up a little on-screen chapter image - that image is completely blurred by crosstalk.

I've played with the 3D Viewing Monitor and can adjust the paralax to fix one or the other eyes - but not both. And resetting to default doesnt fix anything. I've tried to adjust focus but it seems like the focus is right on...

Im beginning to suspect my projector has something mis-configured (or is defective?) because 2D images are great. I'd like to get things so that ghosting is a rare event instead of something I'm seeing all the time.... Anyone have any thoughts on something I could have screwed up accidentally to throw off the 3D image?
post #870 of 1601
Quote:
Originally Posted by fcaico View Post

So I cant seem to get 3D to look right.
I've noticed LOTS of ghosting/Crosstalk and I know its there because it remains even when I close one eye. We arent talking about a rare event either and I see it on ALL of the 3D material im watching.
Also, on movies like Brave - where pausing the film brings up a little on-screen chapter image - that image is completely blurred by crosstalk.
I've played with the 3D Viewing Monitor and can adjust the paralax to fix one or the other eyes - but not both. And resetting to default doesnt fix anything. I've tried to adjust focus but it seems like the focus is right on...
Im beginning to suspect my projector has something mis-configured (or is defective?) because 2D images are great. I'd like to get things so that ghosting is a rare event instead of something I'm seeing all the time.... Anyone have any thoughts on something I could have screwed up accidentally to throw off the 3D image?

I'm not sure what's wrong so I'll just try to throw out some things that might be causing it:

1) Are the glasses getting a good, strong IR sync signal from the projector? I'm not sure how to check this; a lot of digital cameras can detect IR light and display it on the viewscreen. Maybe you could take a look this way and see if you can detect the IR sync bouncing off the screen.

2) Sharpness: turn it all the way down to zero or negative if it will go that far.

3) 3D INPUT FORMAT = AUTO

4) LEFT/RIGHT SWAP = NORMAL

5) 3D EYEWEAR BRIGHTNESS = NORMAL (or DARK) >> crosstalk is higher with LIGHT

6) 3D IR TRANSMITTER = MEDIUM (STRONG may overcome your remote codes and make operation sluggish)

7) 3D MOTION REMASTER = ON >> Make sure FRAME CREATION is set to MODE1 or 3D MOTION REMASTER will not be active

8) DETAIL CLARITY = +2 or +3 depending on preference

9) Make sure the battery in the 3D glasses is fully charged

10) Try a different HDMI cable.

11) Try sending HDMI directly from the player to the projector, bypassing anything in between like an HDMI switcher or AV receiver.
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