Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 31

Yes I saw that restriction recently when I was using that feature.

Finally an answer! Thanks a bunch, NMJack. This is comforting -- the new lamp on my 7000 is holding out pretty good -- over 300 hrs and no flicker so far. I'm really torn between buying the 8000 now (for the sake of a better and lighter 3D viewing) or wait for Panny's next gen, hoping for the much antecipated 4k...

Anyhoo, I want to take this chance to thank all of you guys out there, pundits and lay members who are always unflinchingly ready to help out with valuable input on everything related to these very expensive toys we fill our lives with. To all o' youse, my best wishes for the happiest New Year ever!

Helcio

I have had my ae8000 for 2 weeks now and we're lovin' it on our 110" Sable Elite Screen. During the past two movies we've noticed that at a random spot in the movie the screen goes blue and the input source switcher pops up on the screens. Then seconds later it switches back to the movie and all seems good. Has anyone else experienced this? It's like the HDMI popped out for a second or something, though I didn't touch anything to fix it.

The projector is likely losing the HDMI video signal momentarily. You may want to check your HDMI cables for possible damage or looseness. Are you running the HDMI through a receiver, video processor, or HDMI switcher? Any of them could also be interrupting the HDMI signal to the projector momentarily.

I'm running the HDMI through a receiver. I'll check the cables and try swapping them out to see if one of them is glitchy. Thanks for the tip.

Same here at 550 hours no hint of flicker.

Hopefully that's all it is...fortunately cable issues seem to be the #1 cause of HDMI trouble and that's an easy fix!

I have been having this same issue except that it doesn't pick the signal back up and I need to switch to another input and back again. Last night it happened five times while watching an episode of The Pacific. I have also had problems getting it to switch to the correct input when I turn the system on and have to cycle through the inputs. Other than that I like the projector and the picture.

How many PT-AE8000 owners have considered getting a new screen? I'm up to 91 hours as of last night (no flickering BTW) and my 100 inch 2.35 to 1 screen was perfect for my old projector, but this one is brighter and sharper.

This might be a question for another thread as I sit 12ft from the screen. Do you folks think I could go to a 130 inch? I tried zooming the picture out 120-130 inches in my light controlled room to get a feel and the center looks good still,but can't judge the brightness change as my walls are really dark.

The sales person on the phone did mention QUOTE your gonna want to get a bigger screen, but I dismissed this as bigger really wasn't better in the past. This is all changing in my mind as 91 hrs. is on the clock.
I will have to make a significant modification to my four year old cave to accommodate a bigger screen.

Thoughts anyone? Rob

You havent really provided enough information to give you a good answer. I have my projector mounted about 15' away from a 130" 2.35:1 1.2 gain screen in a very dark light controlled room. I have 150 hours on the bulb so far but I run the projector in basically its dimmest mode: rec709 ECO. No problems at all with brightness.

rstahl, I have a 127" diagonal 2.35 screen with the AE8000 and it's plenty bright. I should mention it's a da-lite high power screen, and the high gain material is especially bright. It was the biggest size I could fit in the room, and I have never regretted it. I sit at about 14 ft, which for me is about right for cinemascope films, but for 16.9 and such I sit a lot closer, maybe 10'.
Edited by Rayboy - 12/27/12 at 9:42am

i have the 7000 and had 0 flicker. Now with 600 hours of use, it started. So far its not THAT bad, but at times it is DEF annoying

Sorry for the lack of information, but you are dead on. My projector is 15FT from the 1.3 gain screen. I really can't watch anything other than rec709 ECO. Anything else is too bright! 3D is different of course or 2.35 I will stay with the rec709 but bump up to normal for the lamp. I'm not a fan constant changes with the menu, but the 3D is growing on me fast.

My room is completely light controlled so my fear of brightness is second to picture quality. Every unit seems to have a limit. My old projector was great, but not past 100 inches. 130 sounds almost like a standard size for today's projectors.

One thing that made my 100 inch screen look small was that IMAX 3D Under The Sea. This looked deeper than wide. R

Another good reply thanks. I thought maybe moving the couch back a bit other than 16.9 but didn't want to be the guy who admitted it. Man the things we do for the big picture:rolleyes:

Is there a way to identify if the projector is a B-Stock or refurbished one? By serial number, perhaps?
Edited by fgsouza - 1/6/13 at 3:16am

I am using a 125 inch 16:9 AT screen with a 1.1 gain and are using it eco mode with plenty of brightness in a light controlled room.

I just picked up my new PT-AE8000U yesterday! Selling my trusted PT-AE3000U to my brother-in-law. I can't wait to fire it up. My first 3D experience was with my Panasonic Panasonic TC-P65GT30 and I love that unit.

I currently have the JVC-RS1. We will be moving to a new house, and the projector area won't be as light controlled as my current setup. I believe the RS-1 was 700 Lumens. If the AE8000 is 2,400 lumens, I can't image how dramatic the difference will be! Can anyone comment who has seen both? Is it bright enough that you can you watch the AE8000 during the day without the blinds closed? (I'm projecting onto a GreyWolf 106inch screen).

I have heard about people getting 2 free pairs of glasses with this unit. It appears to me this may be a U.S. only rebate. I live in Canada and took advantage of a deal to pay $300 more and get 2 pairs of glasses and a replacement bulb. When I asked about the additional two pairs of glasses they were unsure but the one salesman thought it was possible.
Edited by jedi.master.dre - 12/27/12 at 9:49pm

Does anybody have any calibration settings or a suggestion as to were to get them for the PT 8000?

Careful, the 2400 lumens is in Dynamic mode. Most of us are using REC709 in either ECO or NORMAL lamp mode...probably 800/1000 lumens. Have a light controlled room, so can't comment on daylight viewing.

Anyone here use the serial port on their 8000 for networking their projector?

I'm curious as to if this cable will work:

http://www.amazon.com/Your-Cable-Store-Serial-Extension/dp/B001SIPBH0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1356711013&sr=8-2&keywords=serial+cable+rs-232c

In the manual it says:

"If you use serial port to connect PC for external control of projector, you must use commercial RS-232C serial interface cable with ferrite core."

That one appears to be RS-232C, however I've also heard people say to use a "null modem" cable like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10-Feet-RS232-Serial-SCNM9FM/dp/B00009ADGW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1356711136&sr=8-1&keywords=serial+cable+rs-232c

However they both say RS-232, none with the C on it, so I'm a bit confused as to if one will work but the other won't. The first one is my preferred one as 10 feet isn't long enough.

So can anyone who's using the serial port let me know what kind of cable they used?

Thanks.

EDIT:

Here is actually a "null modem" one on amazon in 25 feet:

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Go-52188-CMG-Rated-Profile/dp/B005THCCDM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1356711356&sr=8-9&keywords=serial+cable+rs-232c+null+modem+25+feet

So anyone know if I need that one or the one above that doesn't mention null modem?

While I have yet to connect mine...I plan to so I can automate some things and control it from my phone or iPad.

Based on the cable specs from the Panasonic, you'll want a straight-through cable and NOT a Null Modem cable. So it looks like the first one should work for you.

You can also make your own cable out of db9 connectors and a cat5 cable.

I actually have a ton of Cat5e cable left over from my network wiring I did.

Do you have more information on how I could build my own? Would I even be able to go from serial on one end to the network jack on the other end? Or will I need one of those serial -> network adapters regardless?

Also where do you see that the null modem cable is incorrect vs the straight through one, and that it is the correct one? I do see the pin diagram in the 8000 manual but I'm a noob to this wiring stuff too.

I looked at page 103 of the user manual where it shows all the pin assignments showing straight through...meaning 2 goes to 2, 3 goes to 3, etc.

A null modem cable will cross the 2 to 3.

You'd need a set of cat5 > DB9 connectors. (1 male, 1 female)

Just did a quick google search:
http://www.cdw.com/shop/products/Tripp-Lite-Cross-Over-Adapter-RJ45-F-DB9-F-for-Console-Servers/1787788.aspx?cm_mmc=ShoppingFeeds-_-GoogleBase-_-Cables-_-1787788_Tripp%20Lite%20Cross%20Over%20Adapter%20RJ45-F_DB9-F%20for%20Console%20Servers_TRI-B090-A9F-X

Then just use a standard cat5 (T568a or T568b) cable in between.

I haven't done a lot of searching, but I'm looking for a 90 degree angled db9 black connector to make the connections look a bit better.

If I am reading this warranty form correctly, item # 3 requires registering your warranty within 30 days of purchase.
http://panasonic.com/business-solutions/pdf/PSCNA_Projector_3D_Glasses_claimform_PT-AE8000.pdf

Ah okay I do see what you are saying. I googled null modem vs straight through and found this link here:

http://digital.ni.com/public.nsf/allkb/1EE0DD8AF67922FA86256F720071DECF

It does appear that according to the manual on page 103 that it is a straight through when compared to that link.

Now I am confused because the guy that showed me his Roomie setup said that he was pretty sure he used a null modem type, and that it even mentioned it in the manual. I just PM'ed him back to point out what I've found and seeing if maybe he was incorrect.

EDIT:

although now I'm even more confused lol, because the pinout on page 103 of the manual shows pins 7 and 8 being sent over, but the only one that shows 7 and 8 being used in the link I linked above is the null modem with handshaking.

EDIT 2:

After some MORE researching, on Roomie's website (what I plan on eventually using) it doesn't list the 8000 as a compatible device through serial, but I know for a fact that the 8000 does work since i've seen it work with Roomie and the serial adapter.

However it DOES list the 7000 on there, here:

http://www.roomieremote.com/serial-compatibility/

And as you can see in the notes, it mentions "straight through" and you can see "null modem" in quite a few other places. I'm assuming if the straight through worked for the 7000, that it will work for the 8000. Additionally, the guy who showed me his Roomie and 8000 upgraded from a 7000. I asked him if he used the same serial cable for both and am waiting to hear back. So I'm thinking he just made a mistake intiially telling me he used a null modem type.
Edited by purbeast - 12/28/12 at 11:05am

So I just heard back from him and he said he was just going by memory and could be wrong, and to go by whatever the manual says.

He also said that it IS the same serial cable he used for his 7000 and everything works just the same.

So straight through it is!

I dont understand the "Lower Masking Area" setting on the Lens menu.

I Have a 2.35:1 screen and have the 16:9 - 2.35:1 zooming set up just fine so that when I autoswitch I get the correct zoom to fill my screen.
However, I wanted to also set the lower masking area to be the whole black bar from the cinemascope image (especially for when watching mixed-mode movies like the Dark Knight).
I notice that a maxed-out lower masking area setting (70) does not completely come up to the bottom of the 2.35 screen!

Whats up with that? What is the use of this function?