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Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 32

post #931 of 3190
What are the suggested glasses to purchase with the projector? Here in the EU they don't give them for free with the purchase smile.gif
post #932 of 3190
The Panasonic ones work well. I have two pairs of Sony glasses for use with a flatscreen and they are not compatible with each other, although both are IR. The Sonys are bulkier and quite a bit heavier than the Panasonics.
post #933 of 3190
Yes, but what is the model of these panasonic glasses? Thank you.
post #934 of 3190
The part number in the U.S. is Panasonic TY-EW3D3LU 3D Active Shutter Eyewear for Panasonic 3D HDTVs (Large) (2011 Model). These are Large size, so the number for other sizes may be slightly different.
post #935 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by fcaico View Post

I dont understand the "Lower Masking Area" setting on the Lens menu.
I Have a 2.35:1 screen and have the 16:9 - 2.35:1 zooming set up just fine so that when I autoswitch I get the correct zoom to fill my screen.
However, I wanted to also set the lower masking area to be the whole black bar from the cinemascope image (especially for when watching mixed-mode movies like the Dark Knight).
I notice that a maxed-out lower masking area setting (70) does not completely come up to the bottom of the 2.35 screen!
Whats up with that? What is the use of this function?

Interesting idea! Clever of you to think of...too bad it maxes at 70!

I use it when watching full screen video sourced from my HTPC: for some reason I get a 1-pixel wide thin white line at the bottom of the image. I think it is a Windows 7 thing. So I use +1 Lower Masking to get rid of it.
post #936 of 3190
Will the Samsung glasses work with this projector?
post #937 of 3190
Hi everyone, I just got my projector (PT8000) yesterday.

This is my second/third projector; the other was a powerlite I got a few years ago. (Surprisingly the bulb still is good on that one ! Also have a small Pico by LG H3 something.. lying around.

I have an old screen which is a Dalite on tripod 92" 16:9 - white.
I also purchased a reasonably priced Onkyo Home Theatre System - 3D and a Samsung 3d bluray.
I purchased IRobot and Prometheus both in 3D.

I played both movies - chose d-cinema mode and wow out from the box the picture was amazing !
This projector really rocks !
I can say with the two movies I noticed no crosstalk whatsoever.

I also tried the 2D to 3D and was pleasantly surprised by the quality; tried Equilibrium, Leon the Professional and got some nice results i.e. after playing with the modes 1-5.

I'm so glad I got this as I was looking at the Epson 5020 or Mitsubishi HC8000.

I'm now going 3d crazy and buying some more blurays.. Tron and Avatar next !

I got all this stuff temporarily setup in the basement and plan to get a motorized 135" grey screen off of Ebay - pretty cheap.
Then get some longer speaker wires and setup the speakers to the Home Theater System up properly.

Anyhow; I was wondering if anyone tried the Darbee on this ? And if so how would it work if the setup is from 3d Bluray player into Audio Receiver into Projector ?

Thanks,

F

PS: Oh the guys who sold me the Set screwed up with the glasses; they gave me RF instead of IR; so temporarily I went to Futureshop and found the PS3 ones on sale 20$; the worked like a charm. I did get the Panny IR ones later upon exchange and noticed very or little difference with the PS3 ones in quality terms...
post #938 of 3190
Congrats on your new toy!

I'm not a Darbee enthusiast, but even if I was I would say that the first step to optimize PQ is to adjust Brightness and Contrast. The second step would be full calibration. If the picture at that point doesn't completely satisfy (unlikely IMO) then an "image processor" might add some subjectively enjoyable qualities to the presentation.
post #939 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

Interesting idea! Clever of you to think of...too bad it maxes at 70!
I use it when watching full screen video sourced from my HTPC: for some reason I get a 1-pixel wide thin white line at the bottom of the image. I think it is a Windows 7 thing. So I use +1 Lower Masking to get rid of it.

Doesn't seem like a very useful feature if thats all its good for.
I watched Dark Knight with the wife the other night, and while the IMAX scenes werent too disttracting projecting off the bottom of the screen, I still noticed them. A shame too, because they are framed well enough so that if they were perfectly masked out you wouldnt know which scenes were IMAX ones...
post #940 of 3190
I'm having an issue with my panasonic switching inputs while my other equipment is starting up as well. I have a control 4 system. It just seems that as the bluray or dvd are starting up the panasonic is "searching" for a signal. No problems during the movie, but just while it is idle. Any ideas? thx guys.
post #941 of 3190
Loving my AE8000U.

Has anyone else seen this...

I've got a PS3 and Dune HD Max player as sources into an ONKYO receiver.

The colors for the user interface on both of these appear more green where black would normally appear when I'm using the HDMI 1 input on the projector. Once the movie, plays the colors seem to correct themselves.

So this is noticable on the PS3 main menu and the Dune's menu system.

If I switch the connection to the HDMI 2 input on the projector, everything appears fine.

I'm guessing I have a bad HDMI port?


On a 3D related question.

Is there any good documentation on calibrating the AE8000U for 3D? The manual seems pretty scarce especially when it comes to figuring out MODE1, 2 and 3 for the 3D Viewing Monitor.
post #942 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by hjones View Post

The part number in the U.S. is Panasonic TY-EW3D3LU 3D Active Shutter Eyewear for Panasonic 3D HDTVs (Large) (2011 Model). These are Large size, so the number for other sizes may be slightly different.

I think I heard that Panasonic discontinued the large/small pairs, so it's TY-EW3D3MU now (the M is medium), though some L (large) pairs are still available at retailers.

I'd go with the TY-EW3D3MU personally. I had the large ones, and they weren't any bigger that I could tell, and were more uncomfortable, bizarrely.
post #943 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgapt View Post

I'm having an issue with my panasonic switching inputs while my other equipment is starting up as well. I have a control 4 system. It just seems that as the bluray or dvd are starting up the panasonic is "searching" for a signal. No problems during the movie, but just while it is idle. Any ideas? thx guys.

Never saw it. I use a programmable remote to start my system; the projector comes on first and then the other equipment depending on the activity selected. While the lamp is warming up, if there is switching going on I can't see it. By the time an image appears, everything is on and stabilized.

Might want to check OPTIONS > AUTO SEARCH and make sure it is OFF.
post #944 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio View Post

Loving my AE8000U.
Has anyone else seen this...
I've got a PS3 and Dune HD Max player as sources into an ONKYO receiver.
The colors for the user interface on both of these appear more green where black would normally appear when I'm using the HDMI 1 input on the projector. Once the movie, plays the colors seem to correct themselves.
So this is noticable on the PS3 main menu and the Dune's menu system.
If I switch the connection to the HDMI 2 input on the projector, everything appears fine.
I'm guessing I have a bad HDMI port?
On a 3D related question.
Is there any good documentation on calibrating the AE8000U for 3D? The manual seems pretty scarce especially when it comes to figuring out MODE1, 2 and 3 for the 3D Viewing Monitor.

The AE8000 "remembers" the last picture mode on each input. I'd say you likely have different picture modes active between HDMI1 and HDMI2. Might want to check it out.

For 3D parallax adjustment, I like Viewing Monitor MODE2. Blue = depth INTO screen and Red = Protrusion OUT of screen. If the Blue gets too close to the upper white line, or Red gets too close to the lower white line, you may get excessive crosstalk. Normally the problem is Blue too close to the upper white line. You can dial it back a bit and press Enter to save. It's hard to get rid of all crosstalk because it seems to be content-dependent. You can "fix" one scene, only to find that your adjustment ruins the next scene. Normally I make little if any adjustment and just try to ignore the worst crosstalk artifacts in the offending scenes (I simply look away at some other, better presented part of the image).
post #945 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

I think I heard that Panasonic discontinued the large/small pairs, so it's TY-EW3D3MU now (the M is medium), though some L (large) pairs are still available at retailers.
I'd go with the TY-EW3D3MU personally. I had the large ones, and they weren't any bigger that I could tell, and were more uncomfortable, bizarrely.

Agreed... the Medium size is actually pretty large. The Panasonic Medium as as big or bigger than Xpand YOUniversal size Large.
post #946 of 3190
Just noticed when browsing the Panasonic website that they had extended the rebate period until Jan. 31 2013. At any rate I have been lurking on this forum for quite a while and finally took the plunge. Thank you everyone for your excellent opinions and advice
post #947 of 3190
I am having a problem with this PJ on 2D with Apple TV. (set to 1080P output)

I get motion artifacts....not sure of the technical term...but where it appears slow-motion in way...overall, just fake.

At first I thought it was just the program material, but now i see it all the time. Not on Cable TV though.

The only settings i have touched are picture mode and Color.

Any suggestions? thanks
post #948 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robster1958 View Post

I am having a problem with this PJ on 2D with Apple TV. (set to 1080P output)
I get motion artifacts....not sure of the technical term...but where it appears slow-motion in way...overall, just fake.
At first I thought it was just the program material, but now i see it all the time. Not on Cable TV though.
The only settings i have touched are picture mode and Color.
Any suggestions? thanks

Make sure Frame Creation is turned OFF under PICTURE > ADVANCED. In the manual under this feature is a note: "If [FRAME CREATION] is set to active, video may be delayed in some cases. In this case, select [OFF]."
post #949 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by HMenke View Post

Make sure Frame Creation is turned OFF under PICTURE > ADVANCED. In the manual under this feature is a note: "If [FRAME CREATION] is set to active, video may be delayed in some cases. In this case, select [OFF]."

Exactly. I was surprised to all heck when my 8000 came with Frame Creation on by default to MODE 1. NO Panasonic, NO!
post #950 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

Exactly. I was surprised to all heck when my 8000 came with Frame Creation on by default to MODE 1. NO Panasonic, NO!

It seems like Frame Creation in the 8000 has taken a step backwards from the way it was introduced on the 3000. I liked it a lot on my 3000 and it worked fine on any frame rate input - without adjustment - in either MODE1 or MODE2. On the 8000, it definitely needs to be OFF for 60i/p input signals. It is OK in MODE1 or MODE2 for 24p signals. I don't know if they are using a slower processor, or just doing a lot more processing than what they used to do...but the feature just can't seem to keep up with 60Hz sources.

I should also add that frame interpolation is very helpful for improving motion smoothness in 3D. By interpolating and displaying extra frames, there is less perceptible error as the brain "predicts" where an object - as seen with one eye - should appear next to the other eye. Without 3D Motion Remaster active (and enabled by setting Frame Creation = MODE1), this kind of motion error is noticeably worse.
Edited by HMenke - 1/2/13 at 1:55pm
post #951 of 3190
Okay folks I need some advise. I have decided to buy the ae8000. This is my first projector and since my theater is just a few months from completion I thought I would go ahead and purchase this ahead of schedule.

I have a few questions though.

1. Does anyone recommend a certain website to purchase this projector? I have searched a few and the price varries from 2600 to 3000 depending on the site.

2. Currently there is deal where you can get 2 free glasses, 100.00 rebate and a 3 year limited warranty (not sure what that warranty covers), it expires on the 31st and was wondering if this is a good deal or something the company always offers?

3. Should I purchase an extended warranty or / and an extra bulb?

4. Which mount do you recommend for this projector?

Thanks in advance!!!
post #952 of 3190
I bought mine from Visual Apex:

http://www.visualapex.com/Panasonic/projector-specifications.asp?for-the=PT-AE8000U

I used this mount, which worked very well for me:

http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-PRGUNV-Precision-Universal-Projector/dp/B000TXNS6G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357207872&sr=8-1&keywords=peerless+prgunv+precision+gear+universal+projector+mount+-+black

An extra bulb is always insurance, but the original bulb is rated at 4,000 hours, so hopefully it will be a while before you need it.

The rebate seems to be a good deal, but I have yet to receive mine (mailed it in late November). I bought the Panasonic large glasses since the free ones are medium. The glasses, the third year warranty extension and the $100 rebate add up to $499 per Panasonic.
post #953 of 3190
The current rebate is better than what they offered earlier (two pair glasses only). I worked with Mike N. at Projector People (my 3rd project bought from them). You might be able to negotiate an up front deal on the lamp as part of the purchase. Be sure to only buy an OEM Panasonic lamp; the no-name knockoffs are absolute junk.
post #954 of 3190
I also got mine from projector people. They will probably match any reasonable price. I was talked out of buying a lamp (I planned on buying one with my purchase as insurance as well) by my sales person. She said, it will probably go down in price before I will need to buy another. Just something to consider.
post #955 of 3190
Guys, need some help. I currently have an Elite Screens VMAX2 92" 16x9 and just purchased the 8K. I'm upgrading the screen to a multiformat 115" 2.35:1/92" 16x9 and the confusion I'm experiencing is that I'm getting a distance from lens to screen measurement of 10'2 which according to Panasonic I should be able to fill a 115" 2.35:1 without a problem. Now I don't have the new screen yet (still have the vmax2) but when I put on a 2.35:1 format movie and zoom all the way out I just don't see how it's going to fill the screen, what am I doing wrong? Is this not the way to achieve that aspect? I don't see any settings that state 2.35:1 in the projector. I was under the impression when playing a widescreen movie using this projector I would just zoom the image to crop the bars, is this not correct? Very confused since Panasonic says I should be able to fill a 120" with a min throw distance of 9''4", WTF???
post #956 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wellywell View Post

Guys, need some help.
I'm upgrading the screen to a multiformat 115" 2.35:1/92" 16x9 and the confusion I'm experiencing is that I'm getting a distance from lens to screen measurement of 10'2 which according to Panasonic I should be able to fill a 115" 2.35:1 without a problem.
Wrong.
For 115" 2.35/1 image, distance must be 12'-23'
For 92" 16/9, it's 9'-18'
So, for your setup, you have to place the projector anywhere between 12'-18' from the screen.
post #957 of 3190
Yep I see that now. I must have read the spec sheet incorrectly. Glad I caught this mistake before the screen was shipped. Just cancelled the order and put in a new order for a 92" 2.35:1 since min distance is 7.0. Man I wish I could go bigger just don't have the room to move the projector back any further. Wow this was almost a costly mistake. I guess the 92" 2.35:1 should work just fine for my needs. Thanks again for getting back to me.
post #958 of 3190
post #959 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tronicsguy31 View Post

price just dropped to $2799 http://www.projectorpoint.com/products/28981/PT-AE8000.aspx

wish i would have waited until after christmas ugh
post #960 of 3190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tronicsguy31 View Post

price just dropped to $2799 http://www.projectorpoint.com/products/28981/PT-AE8000.aspx

I'm going to hold out for 2 more weeks then...$2500 anyone?

Well my 150" AT scope screen from Jamestown with Seymour XD material wont be here before then anyways...:fingers crossed:
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