Official Owners' Thread, Panasonic PT-AE8000U (US version) PT-AT6000E (European version) - Page 34

Originally Posted by mcascio 

Loving my AE8000U.
Has anyone else seen this...
I've got a PS3 and Dune HD Max player as sources into an ONKYO receiver.
The colors for the user interface on both of these appear more green where black would normally appear when I'm using the HDMI 1 input on the projector. Once the movie, plays the colors seem to correct themselves.
So this is noticable on the PS3 main menu and the Dune's menu system.
If I switch the connection to the HDMI 2 input on the projector, everything appears fine.
I'm guessing I have a bad HDMI port?

Originally Posted by TommmyJ 

I have found out what is causing the line on my screen and it seems there is a series of "dimples"/indents from top to bottom of the screen that cause the light to hit differently there. I found that on the bare roller there is a raised spot that must stretch the screen slightly when rolled up and then those spots turn to indents when lowered which form a depression/line. Must not take much screen deviation to cause issues on these screens. It is hard to pick up with a camera but it can be seen easily from seating position. Would you exchange the screen for this problem? Thanks

Originally Posted by WannaTheater 

I have been watching some 3D on my AE8000, and it seems to be blurry (I think this is called "crosstalk"). I am playing 3D blurays from a Sony bluray player, running through an Onkyo 808, all over HDMI. Using the standard Panasonic glasses. I generally run the lamp in "Normal" and changepicture mode to Dynamic (I think that is what is called).
Things I notice:
1) If the movie has some subtitle text (like a quick subtitle if someone speaks in a different language), the subtitle is ghosted pretty bad.
2) Sometimes it appears that things in foreground of scene are in 3d focus, but things further back are not.
Any recommendations? Is there a recommended calibration disc for focusing? I have tried to pause 3D material so I can play with the focus, but when you do that everything is in 2D.

Originally Posted by HMenke 

When I pause 3D, it stays in 3D.
A good disk for test patterns is DVE HD Basics Blu-ray.
I believe that 3D ghosting is caused mainly by the mastering of the content. That's only an opinion...I have not had a chance to compare a given bad scene on any other 3D equipment. It just seems to me that the extreme parallax settings in certain scenes exceed the capabilities of the equipment to handle it. For example, in Kung Fu Panda 2 there's a scene showing the landscape of the city where the evil peacock lives. The towers in that scene exhibit horrible crosstalk...it looks like double images. Yet these towers are supposed to be far away in the distance...there should be almost no parallax in them as far as I'm concerned. This is a mastering error IMO.
Unfortunately, the brighter you make the image, the more ghosting/crosstalk becomes visible. You can try finding a happy medium by playing 3D in Normal Mode/Normal Lamp instead of Dynamic Mode/Normal Lamp. Also you can play around with the 3D glasses brightness (Light-Normal-Dark)...darker will reduce the visibility of crosstalk.
I would make sure that Frame Creation is in Mode1 and 3D Motion Remaster is set to On.
As a last resort, you can try adjusting the parallax separation using Mode2 in 3D Monitor Viewing. I have found that you can reduce crosstalk in problem scenes, but it will only cause it to crop up in other scenes that were not a problem before.

Originally Posted by cr136124 

How the auto-sensing works while you are watching movies like The Dark Knight and/or The Dark Knight Rises?

Originally Posted by alinor 

I am looking for positive confirmation from anyone who has been able to setup the lens memory for the different aspect ratios while ALSO having the projector ceiling mounted above the screen or not dead center vertically. I have read through this entire thread and also gone through the couple of explanations on how to setup to two memory slots for scope and 16:9, easy enough. I have also seen a couple people's post that seem to hint or guess that it needs to be within the screen area to begin with. When I test things, it seems to only work for me when I don't use the manual lens shift at all and leave that in the default center.
So when I mount to the ceiling (projector is level) it is shooting near the top 12 inches of the screen. I of course need to bring the image down using the manual shift at this point. (This seems like that would be a common case for many with a ceiling mount). Once this image is shifted, trying to keep a constant height while switching from one aspect doesn't seem attainable through the zoom feature alone. The image will shift vertically every time. The other non manual adjustments do not get close enough to tweak it back. So, I am guessing for everyone who has this working, you are shooting your projector straight on and not using the manual shift? Does that seem right? Either that or I am doing something wrong big time. Anyone have more first hand experience with the boundaries on this setup?

Originally Posted by jamis 

I think the results were mixed.
While the projector changes between settings very quickly (the actual change), it will wait about 10-15 seconds before finally deciding that the aspect ratio has changed. I think this is on purpose to prevent excessive changes when it shouldn't or the aspect change was very brief.
For some scenes it worked well (for extended scenes in aspect ratio), but for others when the movie switches frequently, the projector would often finally change the aspect ratio right around the time where the movie did as well and then change back. That, or some of the scenes were so short, that it never changed the zoom settings.
If we watch any of the batman movies again, we will probably disable the auto aspect feature and just leave it zoomed into 2.35 and let it spill over for the IMAX scenes.
It was definitely a mixed bag.
For less frequent aspect ratio changes, it works VERY well.

Originally Posted by alinor 

Pogal:
Thanks, however, my issue doesn't seem to be along the horizontal, but just the vertical. Having the bars left/right is fine when switching and aligns accordingly. For the vertical, I can start with the 2:35 using both manual and digital adjustment and be fine. Once I switch to 16:9, I can't zoom adjust only to the constant height and keep it on screen. I have to use the manual lens shift again. Same if I start with 16:9. Both the top and bottom edges will move position, not allowing me to set what I want for CIH.
On your celing mount, can I ask where your lens is positioned in relation to your screen? How far from the top? Did you use the manual shift to move up and down at all, or is that still in the default center?

Originally Posted by cr136124 

Thanks a lot for taking the time to provide your input on this.
Good thing is there are not a lot of movies sporting this type of dual aspect ratio and therefore, you will enjoy your 2.45:1 screen without problem. I read a bit about that particular situation on TDK movie and recently on TDKR, before buying my screen. So, as a starting point, I decided to pull the trigger on an inexpensive 16:9 screen.
But, I'm still hoping in the near future to buy a 2.45:1 fixed screen. But, I first I need to change my mind set up on the black bars on the sides. You see, I'm totally fine with the black bars on top/bottom of the screen (after many years of watching movies on letterbox). So, going back to black bars on the sides is like deja-vu from the 4:3 to 16:9 aspect ratio transition..............

Originally Posted by pogal 

The centre of the lens is 16" from the ceiling and approx 6" off centre. Remember to only use the projector digital move horizontal and vertical for the 16:9 adjustment as well as zoom. I originally had the top and bottom masked at 100% but found it cropped too much off the image but could fill the 2:35 screen (152") with a 16:9 image, cropped of course. My 8000 is 15' from the screen.
Hope this helps?

Originally Posted by alinor 

I gave it a whirl as well with the same results / conclusions as Jamis. I would probably not want this changing on me, the delay was just a big odd. I timed quite a few screens and also noticed that it depended on which way you were going. So watching scope and switching to 16:9 took about 5-6 seconds. Going back the other way took 15-22 seconds. So, though it technically worked with the 8000, not sure you would want it on. It is kind of cool at the start of the movies though, where the menus (for the couple I tried) were basically in 16:9 and then switch to scope when the movie starts. Kind of nice.

Originally Posted by mcascio 

I needed an easy way to charge, store and keep safe all the 3D glasses at once.
So I used a rackmount cable management D-ring from Monoprice. I had plenty of space left over in my Patch Panel cabinet in the theater so it worked out great.
I used this 10 port USB hub and a power supply.

Then routed all the cables up to the D-rings.

I only plan on stocking seven 3D glasses, but I could easily hold 10 with this sytem if not more. It's nice to be able to charge, store and keep the glasses protected all at the same time.
Thought this might be helpful to other's with 3D glasses.
That usb hub also allows me to charge my remote and PS3 remote in the same cabinet.

Originally Posted by cr136124 

Wow.......15-22 seconds!! Man, that is a lot!
Thanks for timing this for all of us. I might help others still wondering on buying a 2.35:1 vs a 16:9 screen.
Any chance for you to load a video of the 8000 in action switching aspect ratios? I know, I know I'm asking a lot.........but hey, I have to give it a try...........

Originally Posted by alinor 

If it helps, I'm willing to pitch in. I'll try and see if i can do that this weekend. I can probably try and shoot another example showing what happens when you mount above the screen as well.

Originally Posted by cedivad 

Got mine a few days ago, i'm really happy of it! It's my first projector, and i will have to wait till saturday so that i can setup it properly. For now, i have only a question. How do you think my convergence to be, should i be worried about it/return the projector? I can't notice it from my viewing distance, but i think that it's there.

Originally Posted by sgapt 

Quick ?. When setting up my screen memory I started by usint 16x9 image and fitting it on screen, then with 2.35. Most people on this board seemed to do it the opposite way. Any advantage to doing it that way.

Originally Posted by HMenke 

When I pause 3D, it stays in 3D.

A good disk for test patterns is DVE HD Basics Blu-ray.

I believe that 3D ghosting is caused mainly by the mastering of the content.

Originally Posted by sgapt 

Quick ?. When setting up my screen memory I started by usint 16x9 image and fitting it on screen, then with 2.35. Most people on this board seemed to do it the opposite way. Any advantage to doing it that way.

Originally Posted by JasonSuave 

Cedivad - I'd probably stick with what you have. I've had a string of bad luck with this projector and am on my third unit. The first one had convergence that was off by about 4-5 pixels. The second one had convergence that was off by about 1 pixel but with perfect uniformity. The only problem was that it had a few stuck pixels (on blue). The third's convergence is off by about 2 pixels and has slight uniformity issues on the right half of the screen. Unless I'm highly unlucky, I'd say that the typical margin of error for convergence should be around 1-3px off; you're on the better end of that range! Honestly, I would've stuck with the second one (with the 1px-off convergence, like you) but I HATE dead pixels!