7 x RE Audio XXX 18" subs, Infinite Baffle Sub, Ultimate IB build - Page 8

Subs are a lot like real estate, the most important thing is location and once you have that set-up then you can fiddle with x-over, delay, polarity and the rest if that fun stuff There are a lot of different combinations which may work best but it is only with careful planning and then measurement to dial in the sound.

Im doing what you are proposing right now and while I really to enjoy tinkering with my system, I still have yet to get it where I could confidently say, "i'm done." It is a bit of an undertaking, so know what all you have to do before you get into it, and just be diligent testing, measuring, tweaking, repeating. The closer you get, more insane it gets, but nonetheless quite fun!!!

Bummer for me, got the XXX 18" in and it is making a weird noise when pushed in both free air and in a 9cuft sealed enclosure. It sounds like some kind of rubbing but I really can't figure out where it is coming from. Tried to make a video with my phones video but the mic sucks too bad to hear the noise. Tried out a number of different subs to rule out the amp or anything in the signal chain but the XXX is the only one that makes this noise.

The bright side is RE Audio is about 15 minutes from me so I am just waiting to hear back on an RMA # to get it repaired or replaced. Too bad this things weighs about 114 lbs in it's shipping box

Hope they get this turned around quickly for you; I was really looking forward to your impressions.

Larry

I found out 1 problem with mine, it is not sealed around one of the mounting holes so when I push on the cone when it is in a sealed enclosure you can feel the air escape big time. Sealed that up with some plumbers tape, just need to run some power through it and listen for the noise I heard when playing it free air and also in the enclosure. Running the sub free air would not account for the mounting hole not being sealed up unless one part of the cone is lifting more due to not enough glue around the outside lip?

I have never heard of much problems with these subs so I think I just got unlucky.

Could be a bent basket, warped wood as well as a few other things. Easiest way to check for air leaks is to put tissues around the sub and push down in the middle of the driver, even the slightest leak will be found extremely easily.

The way the baskets bolt together there is a slight protrusion on the bottom rim at each of the basket arms. If you dont use a thick gasket it will not seal raight sometimes. Double up the thickness of gasket material on these.

Thanks for the tips.

I doubled up on the gasket tape, there is no way air is escaping that way. I removed the teflon tape around the mounting hole that was leaking after I made sure there were no other air leaks using N8's tissue technique. Once I removed the teflon tape and put the screw back in the air leak was big time bad again through the screw hole. Looking at the sub from the side it does appear to be higher at the side were the mounting hole leaks air so I have to think it is leaking from a bad seal around the cone.

Luckily I am only about 20 minutes from RE Audio so will take it down to get fixed and gone over next week when I have a chance.

I have to say that it was impressive to listen to when I had the leak sealed up with the teflon tape. It is even more impressive to look at, it is the most beastly sub I have ever owned

How's everything going Dave?

Any updates?

I actually wound up using the normal TC Sounds screws to mount up mine: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=293-685

I personally would never use T-Nuts or Hurricane's again as I have just not had the best experience with them. If you are mounting the XXX's to a good quality 13ply plywood then just drill and screw the drivers in and you will not have any problems.

A quick update on my XXX 18" since I did mention it here. The XXX I got was a refurb and they did not do a good job around the mounting hole sealing it up so RE cleaned it up and remounted it correctly and now it works perfectly. The vendor I got it from was in the East coast so they used someone else for the re-cone but RE made it right and had it back to me the next day, excellent service. RE checked it all out to and told me it was a new re-cone kit and everything else checked out OK.

I am curious to see this thing finished! I can imagine how good it is going to sound!

Since there has been so much talk about the XXX here I think it would be interesting to see how a 12" would compare...I was thinking of a 12" XXX in a ported box tuned to 15-18hz. I know its not as low as what everyone here is talking about but it would be a good "David" to Ricci's "Goliath" haha.

Nice progress.

If I remember correctly, doesn't that baffle wall lean forward at the top?

Gotcha, will the Quested monitors have any toe in? Fire straight? Any directional aiming at all?

This is going to be quite the system, for sure.

I do like those better, never used them to mount drivers but for everything else I have never had a problem. I think people who use these to mount subs use a little glue to make sure they stay in place. I have never used them for that purpose though so maybe someone with more experience using these can chime in.

Nice… How is the 10KQ working out for you? Did you test it out and make sure everything was fully functional? You are a puddle jump away from China, so if you get a faulty amp you could catch a hop to Shanghi to punch Johnson in the face for all of the drama he has put us AVSers through… lol

J/K! He definitely knows the martial arts…

Wait? You already mounted your LMS with these? If so, and it worked out for you, then cool. If not, then I would be very careful with these Dave. Make sure you experiment on some spare wood (preferably the same type of wood you will be mounting your subs too).

These look very thick in diameter, and if the instructions don't clearly indicate the pilot-hole size required, when you attempt to screw these bad boyz in, it could crack your wood. Of course I just want you to err on the side of caution.

The mounting screws that come with the LMS are pretty serious. Screwing them into the 2 ¼" bracing you have identified seems like it should provide you with enough support IMO (unless I am missing something). In fact, I don't know the diameter of the screws you are considering, but make sure they will actually fit through the mounting holes of the driver itself.

Sorry I haven't checked back on this thread in awhile. I apologize if I am regurgitating anything that has already been conveyed.

I can't tell if you know it's a real LabGruppen, or thnk it's a clone.

LabGruppen has an impeccable reputation with both QC, and field reliability. Typically, these things are entirely bullet-proof. They pump full tilt all day, in the harshest conditions (hot summer sun, very low impedance loads, deep bass @ full output), .... their reputation depends on it.

My bad, that's how long I have been away from this thread. I now remember that it's a real LG! That makes all the difference in the world. Thanks for the reminder FOH.

Hurricane and T nuts both suck. Even when you glue them they still spin out sometimes. They also tend to cross thread a lot. After you have had to break off a couple, and cut or grind a few off with a dremel tool with half of your body inside of a box you will know why most of us hate those.

The ones in your pic are WAY better. Danley uses these on the DTS-10 kits and I can't tell you how many times I took the drivers in and out or removed panels and they worked pretty good. I did cross thread one and had to grind it out but I believe I had a screw with the wrong thread pattern so it was probably my fault. These are in my Othorn and Gjallarhorn cabs too and I have had no problems. Make sure they are glued in and keeping them straight is a priority.

Unless you have already bought these the TC sounds screws work really well just screwed into 2 sheets of wood.


Your bracing will be fine.

I'd be careful gluing and clamping like that. Glue is a good lubricant and the pieces can slide relative to each other. I'd suggest a few screws to stop that or a few perpendicular clamps to hold the sides flush.