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Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 40

post #1171 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by quick99 View Post

Can someone tell me the distance between the center of the lens and the bottom of the projector? I would like to replace my AE2000 but the vertical shift is going to be tight and I need to know if I'll need to extend my mount to get 11.34" I'll need for my 110" screen.

Thanks

at my place, at around 12 feet back, with max zoom i am able to achieve about 111in.
post #1172 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

did you test it with half sbs content, i heard it sucks can you make a test for us pls thank you bro
I too worried about HSBS content, though most of my 3D content is BD3D. But I watched about 5 movies already and fortunately I didn't see any crosstalk. Honestly, I was surprised after all comments on ghosting with HSBS.
post #1173 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by plasmaowner View Post

Wow found the perfect combo for 2d, RC set to minimum, NR set to High, MPEG NR set to OFF, Darbee set to 30.
And btw I'm definitely keeping my Darbee for 2d, it's really makes the Sony POP.

 

Which Darbee mode are you using?  HiDEF?  I've found pretty good results with RC 10 and Darbee HiDEF 35.  This includes compressed HDTV signals.  I've found the better the source, the higher you can crank both RC and Darbee.

post #1174 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

did you test it with half sbs content, i heard it sucks can you make a test for us pls thank you bro

I don't have any half sbs content, I'll try to acquire some and test this week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buckley44 View Post

Do you use the Darbee for the 3d also?If so what setting did you have it at.

NO. For me it causes eye strain in 3d. For 2d I absolutely love it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

Which Darbee mode are you using?  HiDEF?  I've found pretty good results with RC 10 and Darbee HiDEF 35.  This includes compressed HDTV signals.  I've found the better the source, the higher you can crank both RC and Darbee.

I use Hidef and 30 for most all 2d content. Some times i'll bump it up to 40 but thats max for me. I use RC at minimum, NR high, and MPEG NR off for all 2d. With colors calibrated the picture looks impeccable with these settings.
post #1175 of 3345
@plasmaowner did you fully calibrated (isf or anything else) your projector?
post #1176 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yusuf.0088 View Post

I too worried about HSBS content, though most of my 3D content is BD3D. But I watched about 5 movies already and fortunately I didn't see any crosstalk. Honestly, I was surprised after all comments on ghosting with HSBS.

if you leave 3d depth on 0, you likely wont see much of any, but when you set it to 1 or 2.. it gets bad.


also a good test, set it to 1... then pause a sceen, close one eye, you will see the crosstalk constantly there.
post #1177 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

@plasmaowner did you fully calibrated (isf or anything else) your projector?

No I didn't, I used my Disney Wow disk and for everything except RGB. Here are my settings for 2d.

User 1
RC set ON, minimum, noise filtering 30.
CB Pro Auto Full, Lamp Low.
Film Projection OFF (NEVER turn this on, causes massive flickering)
Motionflow (FI) OFF
Contrast, Brightness, Color, Hue (All default settings)
Color Temp. Custom 3
(RGB Settings)
  • Gain
  • R 7
  • G 0
  • B 3
    Offset
  • R 0
  • G 1
  • B -1
Sharpness minimum

Expert Settings
NR HIGH
MPEG NR OFF
Film mode Auto 1
Contrast Enhancer OFF
Gamma Correction OFF
xvColor OFF
Color Space BT.709

Real Color Processing (RCP)
Color setting
[*] Red -7
[*] Yellow -1
[*] Green -5
[*] Cyan -3
[*] Blue -17
[*] Magenta -6

Darbee (If you have one) set to 30 HiDef

I use the exact same settings for 3d except:
RC set to 20
Motionflow (FI) LOW
MPEG NR LOW
Glasses 3
Depth 0
Darbee OFF
Edited by plasmaowner - 1/28/13 at 10:08am
post #1178 of 3345
To calibrate RGB and RCP without real tools is quite meaningless and you have probably made things worse than the out of the box settings.
post #1179 of 3345
Thanks bro, i remember a setting like Gamma 2.2 2.4 2.8 etc which one do u use and d6500 or over, sorry if i m asking boring questions
post #1180 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andreas21 View Post

To calibrate RGB and RCP without real tools is quite meaningless and you have probably made things worse than the out of the box settings.

This might quite well be true but to my eyes (which is the only thing that matters right?) it looks near perfect. Besides nothing you do in the settings are permanent. Until I can get it ISF calibrated I'm very content with the settings above and don't mine posting them for anyone else to try. If they don't like it theres a reset button on the remote. biggrin.gif
post #1181 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

Thanks bro, i remember a setting like Gamma 2.2 2.4 2.8 etc which one do u use and d6500 or over, sorry if i m asking boring questions

Those settings are under Color Temp. Custom 3 is basically D65 and allows for further adjustment.

Gamma 2.2 2.4 2.8 etc are under Gamma Correction which I leave OFF.
post #1182 of 3345
The best thing about this projector is how little time I have spent messing with settings. I used my WoW disc focus pattern and I think that's about it. Beyond that I've been playing with rc res, noise filter, FI, and dynamic iris. Everything else just looks so damn good on default I've left it alone.

Does anybody have a good description of what the mpeg noise filter does under the rc menu? The manual is no help, and I've noticed it makes my uverse cable look better if I up it to ~50 and my rc to 30. For blurays I'm still running rc 20, and noise filtering 20. I'm guessing it softens the picture a little before the rc algorithm to reduce noise effects but I can't say for sure.
post #1183 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by daWill View Post

Has anybody tried the playstation brand 3d glasses with the hw50es? I ordered a pair for $20 off best buy the other day, but still don't have an emitter so I won't be able to try them out for awhile. Reviews are positive so I'm hopeful. However I wanted to see if anybody else had already tried these on this specific projector and what their performance is.

Link:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony+-+3D+GLASSES/2904117.p?id=1218459141544&skuId=2904117&st=sony%203d%20glasses&cp=1&lp=1

I have a local Best Buy with 4 of these in stock for $19.99, gonna pick them all up, will give impressions.
post #1184 of 3345
@plasmaowner do you have a chance to test 3d games bro? i heard sony has a weakness in that area
post #1185 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

@plasmaowner do you have a chance to test 3d games bro? i heard sony has a weakness in that area

I have not, personally I don't really like gaming in 3d as it causes me to feel nauseated. I'll give it another try though with the Sony and report back.
post #1186 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by daWill View Post

Does anybody have a good description of what the mpeg noise filter does under the rc menu? The manual is no help, and I've noticed it makes my uverse cable look better if I up it to ~50 and my rc to 30. For blurays I'm still running rc 20, and noise filtering 20. I'm guessing it softens the picture a little before the rc algorithm to reduce noise effects but I can't say for sure.
I too would love to know this. I've tried the manual and checked on line. Can't find a definitive answer to what this setting affects. I've been running the RC around 12 most of the time for 2d, 20 for 3d with a Darbee in line set on HD 35. For me personally, I found that to be a nice pic. I've just been using the same RC setting on the Mpeg Noise filter because I haven't really figured that setting out yet.
post #1187 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by plasmaowner View Post

I have a local Best Buy with 4 of these in stock for $19.99, gonna pick them all up, will give impressions.
I have 5 pairs of the Playstation glasses and using them for about a month with the little 3d that we watch. Like most have said they work as well as the ones that ship with the unit picture wise. Both are a little uncomfortable after a while. I don't know why anyone would pay $80 for an extra pair of the included ones when you can find the playstation ones easily for $20.
post #1188 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by tothjm View Post

at my place, at around 12 feet back, with max zoom i am able to achieve about 111in.

I'm actually looking for the distance from the bottom of the projector itself to the center of the lens. From what I understand I can only be 11.34" above the top of my 110" screen. The top of my screen is 18.25" below my ceiling so I need to find just over 7". The gap from the mount is 3" so I'm hoping the center of the lens will be at least 4" away from the bottom of the projector.
post #1189 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by quick99 View Post

I'm actually looking for the distance from the bottom of the projector itself to the center of the lens. From what I understand I can only be 11.34" above the top of my 110" screen. The top of my screen is 18.25" below my ceiling so I need to find just over 7". The gap from the mount is 3" so I'm hoping the center of the lens will be at least 4" away from the bottom of the projector.
From the owners manual. Looks like it is about 3.75". I would use an extension pole on the mount to get the projector down around the top of your screen. Less lens offset required then.
LEAD Technologies Inc. V1.01
post #1190 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjsbuyer View Post

I have 5 pairs of the Playstation glasses and using them for about a month with the little 3d that we watch. Like most have said they work as well as the ones that ship with the unit picture wise. Both are a little uncomfortable after a while. I don't know why anyone would pay $80 for an extra pair of the included ones when you can find the playstation ones easily for $20.

I have two pair and the look fine. The tint isn't nearly as dark as the factory glasses though so you'll want to calibrate for a particular set and keep it that way. Also, the Sony factory replacements are down to $50 at BB now.
post #1191 of 3345
Ithis maybe a dumb question. How does one tell if you have verticals or horizontal shifting engaged? I was expecting to see some sort of indicator on the lens shift dials to know when i have shifting turned off. I aligned everything's on the wall without making any horizontal shifts but I have no idea if the projector was zeroed out on the horizontal dial. I do know the verticle was not...when I turned it on with a 18 inch drop most of the image was on the ceiling. If there is no indicator would I feel something on the dial...maybe it's more stiff when I hit no shifting?
post #1192 of 3345
Simply view the lens from an angle in front and see where the chip image exits the lens. The chip image only occupies a rectangulat portion of the round lens and the more the projector is zoomed, the smaller the exit image becomes. Assuming you have zeroed the lens shift out, the image should be centered with of course the side edges beeing closer to the round lens edge BECAUSE of course the chip image width is 1.7777777777777 times the chip image height meaning there will be less room on either side. because the chip image horizontally is closer to the edges, its a much bigger no no image quality wise to use horizontal lens shift and less so to use vertical.h
Edited by mark haflich - 1/29/13 at 5:22pm
post #1193 of 3345
Expert Settings
NR HIGH

Setting the NR to high caought my eye. I am curious about the reasons for setting it to high? Is this to help compensate for noise from RC? What do others have this set to?

Thanks
post #1194 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by fingersdlp View Post

Expert Settings
NR HIGH
Is this to help compensate for noise from RC?

Yes, it does a great job keeping noise from RC down while remaining sharp and crisp.

Playstation glasses work great and I actually prefer them over the Sonys that came with the projector. The PS glasses are lighter and brighter and slightly more comfortable IMO. Colors seem to be a tad more accurate too. At 20 bucks a pop it's a steal!
post #1195 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by natas777 View Post

Ithis maybe a dumb question. How does one tell if you have verticals or horizontal shifting engaged? I was expecting to see some sort of indicator on the lens shift dials to know when i have shifting turned off. I aligned everything's on the wall without making any horizontal shifts but I have no idea if the projector was zeroed out on the horizontal dial. I do know the verticle was not...when I turned it on with a 18 inch drop most of the image was on the ceiling. If there is no indicator would I feel something on the dial...maybe it's more stiff when I hit no shifting?

 

I actually asked the same thing several posts ago.  You'd think they could put a mark on the dial or something?!  My projected image was also well into the ceiling when I got my imaged flipped and mirrored correctly which had me freaking out thinking there was no way I had enough lens shift!  Luckily, this was only temporary...it seems they may all be set to one side of the shift from the factory.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

Simply view the lens from an angle in front and see where the chip image exits the lens. The chip image only occuppies a rectangulat portion of the round lens and the more the projector is zoomed, the smaller the exit image becomes. Assuming you have zeroed the lens shift out, the image should be centered with of course the side edges beeing close to the round lens edge BECAUSE of course the chip image width is 1.7777777777777 times the chip image height meaning there will be less rom on either side.

 

Thanks for the tip!

post #1196 of 3345
After slogging through 40 pages of comments, I had to post a few comments. The VPL-HW50ES is only my third projector in my home theater since I built it in 1997. I started with a Runco CRT, but since 2005 I have had a VPL-SW100ES centered on the ceiling of my 30x12 foot space. The 100 has worked flawlessly for seven years, but frankly, was never bright enough for me, even though the image was awesome.

I have auditioned projectors for the last year, and for a an under 4K investment--no I want to say for an under 8K investment--the 50 is the best projector you can buy, if you want to hang it and forget it instead of endlessly tweaking. It beats the 95 on brightness and 3D handily and has a better RC circuit and nearly as good blacks.I find the image brighter than I need and use the lamp mode on low all the time in 2D, and the iris set to auto-limited. I have no problem getting intense deep blacks that have detail but are nearly as black as the bezel; of my Stewart Studio-tec 1.3 gain 120 inch screen even though I have set the gamma in Reference mode to 1.8 to maximize shadow detail and the color temp to D75, which gives me the most neutral whites.

Like many posters, I have had problems with the emitter but I tried a kludge that seems to work pretty well: I taped a small 4x4 mirror to the bottom of the projector (it's hanging upside down from the ceiling) that sticks out over the emitter by 3 inches and I have had few synch problems since then. I am not a big 3D fan, but sitting 8 feet from the screen can be very exciting. Of course the 3D image is not awesome, but then it seldom is in the movie theater either. My projector is in the upper 300s and I hear no buzz at all.

I have tweaked every setting on the projector, and leaving most NR things off or very low works best with most material. The RC seems to work as well as the Darbee, and who needs more junk in the signal path? The dirty little secret (and oh how I am reminded of my audiophile obsession) most of the stuff you watch varies in color temperature, black setting, noise and sharpness. Unless you refuse to watch anything but Blu-rays (and many of them are awful too--check out the Adele concert disk) the projector is TOO revealing of source flaws. My goal has always been to set it and forget it, but there is just too much temptation to fiddle. I try to limit it to brightness and contrast, but the Motionflow is so weirdly fascinating on film material, it has become a guilty pleasure.

So, until a worthy 4K projector under 10 grand rears its ugly head (I am talking to YOU, RED) I think I will be pretty happy.
post #1197 of 3345
Where cah I buy one of these VPL-HW50ES now? There seems to be a dearth of them.
post #1198 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by robsugar View Post

After slogging through 40 pages of comments, I had to post a few comments. The VPL-HW50ES is only my third projector in my home theater since I built it in 1997. I started with a Runco CRT, but since 2005 I have had a VPL-SW100ES centered on the ceiling of my 30x12 foot space. The 100 has worked flawlessly for seven years, but frankly, was never bright enough for me, even though the image was awesome.

I have auditioned projectors for the last year, and for a an under 4K investment--no I want to say for an under 8K investment--the 50 is the best projector you can buy, if you want to hang it and forget it instead of endlessly tweaking. It beats the 95 on brightness and 3D handily and has a better RC circuit and nearly as good blacks.I find the image brighter than I need and use the lamp mode on low all the time in 2D, and the iris set to auto-limited. I have no problem getting intense deep blacks that have detail but are nearly as black as the bezel; of my Stewart Studio-tec 1.3 gain 120 inch screen even though I have set the gamma in Reference mode to 1.8 to maximize shadow detail and the color temp to D75, which gives me the most neutral whites.

Like many posters, I have had problems with the emitter but I tried a kludge that seems to work pretty well: I taped a small 4x4 mirror to the bottom of the projector (it's hanging upside down from the ceiling) that sticks out over the emitter by 3 inches and I have had few synch problems since then. I am not a big 3D fan, but sitting 8 feet from the screen can be very exciting. Of course the 3D image is not awesome, but then it seldom is in the movie theater either. My projector is in the upper 300s and I hear no buzz at all.

I have tweaked every setting on the projector, and leaving most NR things off or very low works best with most material. The RC seems to work as well as the Darbee, and who needs more junk in the signal path? The dirty little secret (and oh how I am reminded of my audiophile obsession) most of the stuff you watch varies in color temperature, black setting, noise and sharpness. Unless you refuse to watch anything but Blu-rays (and many of them are awful too--check out the Adele concert disk) the projector is TOO revealing of source flaws. My goal has always been to set it and forget it, but there is just too much temptation to fiddle. I try to limit it to brightness and contrast, but the Motionflow is so weirdly fascinating on film material, it has become a guilty pleasure.

So, until a worthy 4K projector under 10 grand rears its ugly head (I am talking to YOU, RED) I think I will be pretty happy.

completly agree
post #1199 of 3345
We're is everyone placing the emitter for the Sony 50esat the screen or on the projector?
post #1200 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by buckley44 View Post

We're is everyone placing the emitter for the Sony 50esat the screen or on the projector?

My projector is ceiling mounted. I have the emitter on top of the projector facing the screen.
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