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Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 45

post #1321 of 3345
just ordered an HW50 today (AVS can hook you up with an excellent deal, btw) and have an Onkyo TX-NR1008 receiver, so I'm definitely interested in your outcome.

Knew before I ordered of this possible issue from reading the thread, but I'm hopeful the 1008 and the HW50 will still get along. Anyone here using that combo?
post #1322 of 3345
I also have an HW50ES on it's way to me from AVS (Mike Garrett). I'm replacing a JVC RS35 and hoping I like and use 3D while the PQ is close to as good as the RS35. We shall see ... smile.gif
post #1323 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

I also have an HW50ES on it's way to me from AVS (Mike Garrett). I'm replacing a JVC RS35 and hoping I like and use 3D while the PQ is close to as good as the RS35. We shall see ... smile.gif

That should be an interesting comparison; looking forward to hearing your thoughts. How big is your screen again?
post #1324 of 3345
Update on my Sony VPL -HW 50es . I have concluded that the only problem with the Sony is that it is hiper critiical of source material.
I have a replacement unit coming and will double check the motion issues I have experienced. It still looks more digital than the Panasonic AE-8000.
The Panasonic draws you into the source material, is lower in noise and has better depth. If you enjoy a lot of old movies the Sony has much better gray scale uniformity looking at black and white movies but I still adjust the sharpness settings on the Sony a lot. The Panasonic has more flaws but I just watch movies. Have not done any 3D comparasions yet. I see the motion issues using the Panasonic but am not obsessed wit the flaws.
post #1325 of 3345
Forgot a couple of things. I also think the Panasonic 8000 is more film like with a sharper more natural image. The powered focus is much eaiser to setup.
The Panasonic is a brighter picture 2D. Also the preset settings on the Sony are much better. Using Arts settings on the REC 709 I think helps a lot on the Pansonic but when I just sit and look the Panasonic is cleaner in noise level has noticable better depth and overall better sharpness with a more natural fim image. I dont want to keep adjusting the picture.
post #1326 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by home theater View Post

Forgot a couple of things. I also think the Panasonic 8000 is more film like with a sharper more natural image. The powered focus is much eaiser to setup.
The Panasonic is a brighter picture 2D. Also the preset settings on the Sony are much better. Using Arts settings on the REC 709 I think helps a lot on the Pansonic but when I just sit and look the Panasonic is cleaner in noise level has noticable better depth and overall better sharpness with a more natural fim image. I dont want to keep adjusting the picture.

How big is your screen? Seems that you are comparing apples to oranges if in "best" mode as the Sony should be much brighter.
post #1327 of 3345
Clearly, pana can't compete with X35/HW50 or even epson this year...
post #1328 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by MFLUGSTA View Post

That should be an interesting comparison; looking forward to hearing your thoughts. How big is your screen again?

It's a Seymour XD 16:9, 125" diag.
Edited by RMK! - 2/15/13 at 9:58am
post #1329 of 3345
Yes, I am 5 years to late for the prom but I still plan to post my Review this weekend. smile.gif
post #1330 of 3345
My screen is a Carada Precision Series. Screen Ratio 1.78. Screen size 126". I sit 14'6' (1.6) screen width.
I use the Reference setting on the Sony low bulb output. On the Panasonic I use Rec 709. In those settings
the two units seem about the same in brightness with the Sony having a much more acurate color balance
to the eye. I also noticed that when the Sony Reality Creation is completely off the Panasonic is sharper.
When Reality Creation is on and Resoloution set to minimum (Default is 20) and Noise filtering is set to 20
(Default is 30) the Sony looks much more natural but still has a slight digital sandy look that the Panasonic
does not have at all. You know nothing in life is perfect. Im going to wait till the replacement unit comes. If the
motion issue is reduced on the new unit which from what every one has told me it will be the Holy Grail for me.
I have also read that the new Redmere HDMI cables are not only thin but have a lower noise level than the older
MONOPRICE cables. I know many scientist out there say its a digital signal it either makes the signal or it does
not. Well I purchased the Blue Jeans certified BJC Belden Series-1 Bonded-Pair HDMI Cable: Best for long runs.
Well the less expensive Monoprice silver same length was much better. My 12 yr old Daughter saw the difference.
My point is mayby the Redmere HDMI cables will be better as well. i will keep you posted.
post #1331 of 3345
Anyone watching blyrays from computer? I can't get 3D to work with total media arcsoft and sony. It looks like black and white picture with massive red shadow on each object. Like it's showing 3D but not right. Tested 3D also with H-SBS content and it worked.
post #1332 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by anidabi View Post

Anyone watching blyrays from computer? I can't get 3D to work with total media arcsoft and sony. It looks like black and white picture with massive red shadow on each object. Like it's showing 3D but not right. Tested 3D also with H-SBS content and it worked.

how is the h-sbs performance? are u happy? some friends wrote its bad
post #1333 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by home theater View Post

My screen is a Carada Precision Series. Screen Ratio 1.78. Screen size 126". I sit 14'6' (1.6) screen width.
I use the Reference setting on the Sony low bulb output. On the Panasonic I use Rec 709. In those settings
the two units seem about the same in brightness with the Sony having a much more acurate color balance
to the eye. I also noticed that when the Sony Reality Creation is completely off the Panasonic is sharper.
When Reality Creation is on and Resoloution set to minimum (Default is 20) and Noise filtering is set to 20
(Default is 30) the Sony looks much more natural but still has a slight digital sandy look that the Panasonic
does not have at all. You know nothing in life is perfect. Im going to wait till the replacement unit comes. If the
motion issue is reduced on the new unit which from what every one has told me it will be the Holy Grail for me.
I have also read that the new Redmere HDMI cables are not only thin but have a lower noise level than the older
MONOPRICE cables. I know many scientist out there say its a digital signal it either makes the signal or it does
not. Well I purchased the Blue Jeans certified BJC Belden Series-1 Bonded-Pair HDMI Cable: Best for long runs.
Well the less expensive Monoprice silver same length was much better. My 12 yr old Daughter saw the difference.
My point is mayby the Redmere HDMI cables will be better as well. i will keep you posted.
Is it possible that HDMI cable makes difference ? I came from IT world where 0 is zero and 1 is one, it does not make sense to me. But you guys can prove me wrong...........
post #1334 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

how is the h-sbs performance? are u happy? some friends wrote its bad
That's I try to dtermine by watching blyray and hsbs, but so far can't get bluray work properly. I have mixed feelings about sbs. Brave looked really good, ghosting looked non issue, but avengers looked bit weird. Not sure if it was ghosting or fliker, maybe both, but looked lot worse than brave. Have to do more testing and need to get blyray working with computer, I don't have stand alone player, and not gonna get one too.
post #1335 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by anidabi View Post

That's I try to dtermine by watching blyray and hsbs, but so far can't get bluray work properly. I have mixed feelings about sbs. Brave looked really good, ghosting looked non issue, but avengers looked bit weird. Not sure if it was ghosting or fliker, maybe both, but looked lot worse than brave. Have to do more testing and need to get blyray working with computer, I don't have stand alone player, and not gonna get one too.

which program do you use? splash pro player or another?
post #1336 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by home theater View Post

My screen is a Carada Precision Series. Screen Ratio 1.78. Screen size 126". I sit 14'6' (1.6) screen width.
I use the Reference setting on the Sony low bulb output. On the Panasonic I use Rec 709. In those settings
the two units seem about the same in brightness with the Sony having a much more acurate color balance
to the eye. I also noticed that when the Sony Reality Creation is completely off the Panasonic is sharper.
When Reality Creation is on and Resoloution set to minimum (Default is 20) and Noise filtering is set to 20
(Default is 30) the Sony looks much more natural but still has a slight digital sandy look that the Panasonic
does not have at all. You know nothing in life is perfect. Im going to wait till the replacement unit comes. If the
motion issue is reduced on the new unit which from what every one has told me it will be the Holy Grail for me.
I have also read that the new Redmere HDMI cables are not only thin but have a lower noise level than the older
MONOPRICE cables. I know many scientist out there say its a digital signal it either makes the signal or it does
not. Well I purchased the Blue Jeans certified BJC Belden Series-1 Bonded-Pair HDMI Cable: Best for long runs.
Well the less expensive Monoprice silver same length was much better. My 12 yr old Daughter saw the difference.
My point is mayby the Redmere HDMI cables will be better as well. i will keep you posted.

I'm using 40ft Monoprice Redmeres with my Sony, and the picture looks stunning when given the right material. The sad part (and it isnt so much a bad thing) is that the Sony looks so good, and the picture is large enough that there are many flaws exposed when I'm watching something on Satellite or Netflix when compared to bluray. Bluray however, looks stunning. As I stated in the comparison thread, Skyfall looks particularly stunning.
post #1337 of 3345
+1 to source material and Redmere. I'm using a 60 ft Redmere between projector and Darbee and the shortest Redmere from Darbee to my Integra 80.3. Before the short one, I was using a regular Monoprice HDMI cable and the pic would cut in and out. I thought the Darbee was the issue because going direct to the HW50 was fine...turns out it was the cable! I'm a big Redmere fan as a result!
post #1338 of 3345
Jkasanic

You are using a darbee. Do you turn off reality creation sharpening or have it and the darbee going at the same time? I am wondering this because the reality creation seems to do a good job to the point where a darbee is not needed. Does the darbee look much better?
post #1339 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by anidabi View Post

Anyone watching blyrays from computer? I can't get 3D to work with total media arcsoft and sony. It looks like black and white picture with massive red shadow on each object. Like it's showing 3D but not right. Tested 3D also with H-SBS content and it worked.


yes i have gotten it to work,

you need to go into the 3d settings and make sure its set to the right mode. It sounds like its trying that anaglyphic ( whatever its called ) instead of doing the correct type


i actually do all 3d from Cyberlink DVD as it is just easier and works better in my opinion. I have tried both.
post #1340 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by havok2022 View Post

I'm using 40ft Monoprice Redmeres with my Sony, and the picture looks stunning when given the right material. The sad part (and it isnt so much a bad thing) is that the Sony looks so good, and the picture is large enough that there are many flaws exposed when I'm watching something on Satellite or Netflix when compared to bluray. Bluray however, looks stunning. As I stated in the comparison thread, Skyfall looks particularly stunning.

agreed


watching anything in HD on Fios, the squares that you see on a smaller screen are far bigger on this... but this is in NO WAY the fault of the Sony, it is just how the content is downloaded and its resolution from Verizon Fios.... but you can easilly get over it..


blue ray content is GREAT... watched Avatar BD50 in 3D..just great. I was watching at 111in from about 7 feet away...get right in the action smile.gif
post #1341 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by natas777 View Post

Jkasanic

You are using a darbee. Do you turn off reality creation sharpening or have it and the darbee going at the same time? I am wondering this because the reality creation seems to do a good job to the point where a darbee is not needed. Does the darbee look much better?

Yes, using both at same time. RC set very low and Darbee on HiDef abt 35 or 40. I might be imagining things but when I took the Darbee out of the chain (due to HDMI cable issue), I felt like I could see more of a digital effect with RC. It seems to me the Darbee adds a different kind of processing that makes the pic look more realistic. I would almost say it softens it a bit (like a DLP) but the sharpness remains if that even makes sense. I guess I just prefer the pic with the Darbee rather than without but YMMV.
post #1342 of 3345
Anyone using a Lunagen Radiance for their superb gray scale, gama , and great overall color control with the Sony HW50ES. If so, how easy, or difficult was it , and how much of an improvment do you think it made? Did you calibrate it yourself , or have it done? I am considering on getting a Radiance XS 3D, as I presently have no 1.4 HDMI switching with my older AV prepro. that I am otherwise satisfied with. My AV prepro has optical and digital coax for DTS and DD that I'm satisfied with. More concerned with image improvment than audio inhancement.
Edited by NewConnection - 2/16/13 at 3:08pm
post #1343 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewConnection View Post

Anyone using a Lunagen Radiance for their superb gray scale, gama , and great overall color control with the Sony HW50ES. If so, how easy, or difficult was it , and how much of an improvment do you think it made? Did you calibrate it yourself , or have it done? I am considering on getting a Radiance XS 3D, as I presently have no 1.4 HDMI switching with my older AV prepro. that I am otherwise satisfied with. My AV prepro has optical and digital coax for DTS and DD that I'm satisfied with. More concerned with image improvment than audio inhancement.

Lumagen Mini 3D
Chromapure and AutoCal

I think the overall package adds a bit to the picture. The autocal makes it so easy to just click a button and walk away and come back to a very nice calibration.
post #1344 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewConnection View Post

Anyone using a Lunagen Radiance for their superb gray scale, gama , and great overall color control with the Sony HW50ES. If so, how easy, or difficult was it , and how much of an improvment do you think it made? Did you calibrate it yourself , or have it done? I am considering on getting a Radiance XS 3D, as I presently have no 1.4 HDMI switching with my older AV prepro. that I am otherwise satisfied with. My AV prepro has optical and digital coax for DTS and DD that I'm satisfied with. More concerned with image improvment than audio inhancement.

Perhaps wait on this. Lumagen has a new line coming soon that will support 4K and have a built in Darblet among other things. I only suggest this for the XS because it is such an expensive piece of equipment, it would be a shame to drop so much cash on something that will be obsolete within the year. Lumagen has been very good about keeping their units updated for the latest standards, but it will be impossible for the XD/XS/XE/mini to work with the new HDMI standard. I love my XD with calman autocal, but I think now is just the wrong time to buy (even with Lumagen's common upgrade programs), maybe the mini3D is still worth it, if you can get it closer to 1k that 2k.
post #1345 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dmaven View Post

Perhaps wait on this. Lumagen has a new line coming soon that will support 4K and have a built in Darblet among other things. I only suggest this for the XS because it is such an expensive piece of equipment, it would be a shame to drop so much cash on something that will be obsolete within the year. Lumagen has been very good about keeping their units updated for the latest standards, but it will be impossible for the XD/XS/XE/mini to work with the new HDMI standard. I love my XD with calman autocal, but I think now is just the wrong time to buy (even with Lumagen's common upgrade programs), maybe the mini3D is still worth it, if you can get it closer to 1k that 2k.
the exact reason I haven't bought one. No need to spend that much on something that's about to be obsolete
post #1346 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by tothjm View Post

yes i have gotten it to work,

you need to go into the 3d settings and make sure its set to the right mode. It sounds like its trying that anaglyphic ( whatever its called ) instead of doing the correct type


i actually do all 3d from Cyberlink DVD as it is just easier and works better in my opinion. I have tried both.
Well, I tried every 3d option I have(auto, sumulated-3D, side-by-side and over-under). Why there is not frame packet option? Or is it possible to just set 3d without goingo to the submenus where those over-under, sbs, etc. options are?

My player is arcsoft toal media player 5.xxx
post #1347 of 3345
FINALLY, my screen arrived on Wednesday and I got it hung yesterday so now I'm able to really play with this thing! I've got a couple of quick questions:

1. Any quick way to tell what type of signal is being received?
2. When I look at the last page that shows serial # and lamp hours, etc., I notice that sometimes it says "No. 12" under the serial # and other times "No. 14" - What does that mean?
3. Picture looks pretty darn good to me out of the box - I'm using Cinema 1 instead of User. Anything I'm missing with this preset?

BTW - I tried to watch some H-SBS content off my WDTVLive and it was pretty ghosty. Nothing I did to the PJ helped, next I'll try to mess with the glasses. (Using MonsterVision glasses) Skyfall in 2D was AMAZING!
post #1348 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

FINALLY, my screen arrived on Wednesday and I got it hung yesterday so now I'm able to really play with this thing! I've got a couple of quick questions:

1. Any quick way to tell what type of signal is being received?
2. When I look at the last page that shows serial # and lamp hours, etc., I notice that sometimes it says "No. 12" under the serial # and other times "No. 14" - What does that mean?
3. Picture looks pretty darn good to me out of the box - I'm using Cinema 1 instead of User. Anything I'm missing with this preset?

BTW - I tried to watch some H-SBS content off my WDTVLive and it was pretty ghosty. Nothing I did to the PJ helped, next I'll try to mess with the glasses. (Using MonsterVision glasses) Skyfall in 2D was AMAZING!

Hello, when u try half-sbs content with mvision glasses can you pls report the difference here?
post #1349 of 3345
I have a Sony 60A3000 SXRD rear projection TV. It's about 5 years old, but it has a feature called "detail enhancement". I've found that the medium setting brings out a lot of detail and really improves the sharpness nicely (IMO) with minimal noise enhancement.

I was wondering if someone who is familiar with this feature on the A3000 (or other Sony TVs) can comment on how it compares to the current "Reality Creation". Are they basically the same thing?
post #1350 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

Hello, when u try half-sbs content with mvision glasses can you pls report the difference here?
So I just spent a good couple hours messing around with the glasses and settings and found that the following works the best for me. You may have different results.

In General - I saw this posted in the MV3D thead and like how it looks - 1170 Delay, 89 Duty Cycle on the glasses and 3D Brightness at 3 on the PJ. I tried following the instructions to do a factory reset on the transmitter, but it kept defaulting to 20 Delay and 10 Duty Cycle, so I just set it with the PC tool and left it.

However, for each source, I needed different Brightness, Contrast, Gamma settings, etc.

H-SBS playing from a WDTV Live - Increased Brightness to 65, Contrast to 94, Gamma 2.1. This looked the best to me and reduced ghosting tremendously. I also didn't notice any flicker in the MKVs I played. (Paranorman, Brave, TinTin) I did notice some flicker in MIB3, so I need to play around a little if I'm going to watch that.

3D Blu-ray through PS3 - After playing with the settings and going back and forth, I settled on just using the "Bright Cinema" preset. It seemed to give the best balance of brightness and contrast and the colors looked amazing to me.

One thing I noticed - if I played around with the settings, ghosting would be vary prevalent. However, if I stopped and started the movie and let the 3D "re-initialize," the ghosting would be gone. Not sure why this is, but I noticed it especially when testing Titanic 3D. So, basically, dial in your settings, then stop and restart your movie to make sure the ghosting is gone.
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