Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 46

Well, I tried every 3d option I have(auto, sumulated-3D, side-by-side and over-under). Why there is not frame packet option? Or is it possible to just set 3d without goingo to the submenus where those over-under, sbs, etc. options are?

My player is arcsoft toal media player 5.xxx

FINALLY, my screen arrived on Wednesday and I got it hung yesterday so now I'm able to really play with this thing! I've got a couple of quick questions:

1. Any quick way to tell what type of signal is being received?
2. When I look at the last page that shows serial # and lamp hours, etc., I notice that sometimes it says "No. 12" under the serial # and other times "No. 14" - What does that mean?
3. Picture looks pretty darn good to me out of the box - I'm using Cinema 1 instead of User. Anything I'm missing with this preset?

BTW - I tried to watch some H-SBS content off my WDTVLive and it was pretty ghosty. Nothing I did to the PJ helped, next I'll try to mess with the glasses. (Using MonsterVision glasses) Skyfall in 2D was AMAZING!

Hello, when u try half-sbs content with mvision glasses can you pls report the difference here?

I have a Sony 60A3000 SXRD rear projection TV. It's about 5 years old, but it has a feature called "detail enhancement". I've found that the medium setting brings out a lot of detail and really improves the sharpness nicely (IMO) with minimal noise enhancement.

I was wondering if someone who is familiar with this feature on the A3000 (or other Sony TVs) can comment on how it compares to the current "Reality Creation". Are they basically the same thing?

So I just spent a good couple hours messing around with the glasses and settings and found that the following works the best for me. You may have different results.

In General - I saw this posted in the MV3D thead and like how it looks - 1170 Delay, 89 Duty Cycle on the glasses and 3D Brightness at 3 on the PJ. I tried following the instructions to do a factory reset on the transmitter, but it kept defaulting to 20 Delay and 10 Duty Cycle, so I just set it with the PC tool and left it.

However, for each source, I needed different Brightness, Contrast, Gamma settings, etc.

H-SBS playing from a WDTV Live - Increased Brightness to 65, Contrast to 94, Gamma 2.1. This looked the best to me and reduced ghosting tremendously. I also didn't notice any flicker in the MKVs I played. (Paranorman, Brave, TinTin) I did notice some flicker in MIB3, so I need to play around a little if I'm going to watch that.

3D Blu-ray through PS3 - After playing with the settings and going back and forth, I settled on just using the "Bright Cinema" preset. It seemed to give the best balance of brightness and contrast and the colors looked amazing to me.

One thing I noticed - if I played around with the settings, ghosting would be vary prevalent. However, if I stopped and started the movie and let the 3D "re-initialize," the ghosting would be gone. Not sure why this is, but I noticed it especially when testing Titanic 3D. So, basically, dial in your settings, then stop and restart your movie to make sure the ghosting is gone.

I didn't go as deep as I usually do since its been out awhile but I will say I am a fan of the 50ES. The Reality Creation on its 2K panels works amazingly well. It has an even more positive effect then on the 1000ES's 4K panels. It is an excellent projector and deserves the hype. I can see why it is well received by many.

http://hstrial-jrodriguez996.homestead.com/Sony-VPL-HW50ES-Review.html?_=1361139751384

I recently got a chnce to play with a new $6K 4K signal generator. Say that quickly several times in a row. With RC on there is a noticeable chroma shift on the 1000ES.. Not subtle. It goes away with RC off .I have noticed the chroma shift when using external 1080p on off pixel patterns from my Lumagen. Very careful use of the resolution and noise filtering settings on the RC can minimize it and not make it not noiceable on white field screens or on normal picture content. The RC IMNSHO needs work though on balance the default setting for the mode one is in, such as reference, seem to work best and overall RC makes a small PQ improvement.
Edited by mark haflich - 2/17/13 at 5:20pm

Awesome review Joerod!!!!

User 1, colormode 3, REC709 color space, Gamma set to 2.2 is about as close as you can get to D65/R709 out of the box. Give it a shot and see what it looks like.

His PJ needs to turn on panel alignment. It seem the default convergence is not really good.

4K signal gen is 6k? wow..
Don't you run Darbee as well? I even saw Chroma errors from Darbee unless lowering it down less than 15. The thing is I lose all the enhancments when sliding down the near 0 or 5.

Where do I set the Colorspace to REC709?

Under the 'expert settings' menu you should see 'Color Space'. I believe the default is 'Color Space 3'. Change this to 'BT.709'.

http://www.docs.sony.com/release/VPLHW50ES.pdf (page 53 has info on the different settings)

Zombie how do you get into the service menu to turn the 3d IR transmit signal strength up on the HW-50. I simply cannot get a lock in my room.
The Panasonic 8000 I am using has a selector in its 3d menu mode to increase the signal that works quite well. I have not lost the signal one time.
The HW-50 will hardly lock on the signal at all and when it does you have to sit really still. Even when I sit dead still the signal drops as well. I will eventually get the add on device but Sony is out. Do you know that service code?

Ok, but then what is Colormode 3?

The manual says 'color mode for watching movies'... not sure what that's supposed to mean, but it's a wider color space than R709. It would be a good starting point for calibration if the R709 wasn't so close to begin with.

Your original post said "colormode 3, REC709 color space". I assumed they were two different settings. Looks like it's just the one.

I basically took Cinema 1, bumped Contrast to 91, Brightness to 53, Color SPACE to BT.709 and the Gamma to 2.1 and am quite happy with the picture and brightness in 2D. (Lamp is on Low) for 3D from my WDTV (H-SBS), I bumped brightness up to 65 and Contrast to 94. For 3D from my PS3, oddly enough, I like how the Bright Cinema preset looks.

I watched Avengers in 3D (PS3) last night and was pretty impressed and happy with the picture. I saw some ghosting in a few scenes, but mostly near the top or bottom of the screen or when there was a lot of action/movement happening. The faces never ghosted, so I was pretty happy. I might play around a bit more with the duty cycle on the glasses to see if I can get it any better.

sorry for the confusion - here is more info to clarify:

Under Color temperature settings, there are several options. Setting this to 'Custom 3' is the baseline for D65 and is pretty close depending on sample variance.

In the expert menu under color space, that's where the Color Space 3 setting is default, recommend changing to R709.


Avengers 3D looks very good on the HW50. I usually set the RC @ 25 or so, the 50 default is a little too aggressive.

custom settings start at default and match,,,,,,,,,,,, ie custom 3 is d65 but allows adjustment where as d65 does not allow adjustment. Custom 2 is d75 ect. Custom 5 is different and for brightness mode above all else. Mine is a little green in 5 and I like custom 2 or d75 most of the time. It will vary from one unit to the next.

correct, I use custom 3 since it's relatively close to D65 depending on the lamp quality of the specific sample i'm calibrating. I generally use Custom 2 or 4 as a basline when calibrating in 3D mode.

The great thing about the HW50 is that it can switch between the 2D and 3D calibrated modes with no end user changes required. This is one of the only projectors this year I've seen that can do this.

Assuming the HW50 works like this HW30, this is definitely one great feature that doesn't get a lot of press.

Specifically, for each input, each video format holds its own configuration. This means for Input 1, with a 1080i input you can set the values to X, Y and Z and for 1080p24 you can set it to P, Q and R, and for 1080p24 3D to Z, Y Z and so on. Then you can also do this for input 2.

The only negative is that you need to set the parameters for each mode, which can require doing it a few times for your common inputs and formats. But I think it's a small trade-off to know you are using the right configuration and not rely on a universal remote to send the right button (and sometimes check to see if you are in the right mode)

Color temperature is gray scale settings. If you enter when you get to custom the you willsee how the RGB cuts and gains are set from the factory. These are user adjustable and I set my calibrated grayscale with custom 1, but it makes no diffeence. Its just three user adjusrable RGB cuts and drive memories.

color space is how the primary points are set. Rec 709 has defined coordinates just like DCI etc. Obviously rec 709 is the one ome would normally use.

but movies in a theater use a wider colorspace. DCI though our blurays are not so coded.
Edited by mark haflich - 2/18/13 at 2:48pm

Just ordered a 50ES wih AV Science. I am having it calibrated (with zombie is what i was told) before it is shipped out. Thanks in advance zombie:D

Now it all makes sense and thanks for the explanation. I was wondering how my HW50 seems to remember my settings and change them according to the source I select on my Denon 3312CI. My Uverse sends out 1080i and the Sony auto switches to TV presets. When I which to my HTPC (1080p) it knows and switches the preset to my User1, and so on and so fourth. Works the same for 2d/3d as you have stated. Very nice feature if you ask me.

I believe that number references the memory preset slot. ie) you can specify settings of each input type and it will place it in a memory slot. like one for 1080 24. vs. 1080 60., etc. I believe I read this somewhere. I hope someone else chimes in to concur or correct.

Yeah, I found it in the manual this morning. Funny - I read through that thing 50 times online before actually getting the PJ, but once it got here, it's like my memory was erased.

Hi can some HE50 owners help me.

I have an optoma HD33, i love 3D gaming (ps3 @ 720p) and watching 3D blu rays. The optoma is fantastic at 3D blu rays. The picture is crosstalk and ghosting free 99.9% of the time (even for gaming), Stunning. 2D gaming is awesome, minimal input lag. However 3D gaming the lag increases to the point where fast games such as superstardust and FPS can not be played. Racing games are ok as they dont require fast responce.

Can HW50 owners who have tried 3D gaming on ps3, is it better in terms of input lag over the HD33?

Also coming from the amazing DLP 3D of the optoma, will i find the sony 3D acceptable or would i simply hate the crosstalk/ghosting?

Thanks.

I love the projector except as soon as the signal is shut off, the lamp shuts off! I have lamp cut off set to off, and standby mode set to standard. Anyone else having this problem? The search function definitely did not help.

Turn off hdmi control under hdmi setting

Hdmi control is off