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Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 47

post #1381 of 3345
There is a thread in the Home Theater PC forum that has a good tutorial on configuring MPC-HC

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1357375/advanced-mpc-hc-setup-guide
post #1382 of 3345
so still having the same problem

I ran the tearing test and watched frame rate.. as the red line goes across the screen, it is definitely tearing every 10-13 sec. and i noticed when it does tear, the framerate says 24FPS but the rest of the time it switches between 23.9 and 24 rapidly


if there was a way to keep it form hitting 24 we would be good but i have no idea why it is doing this or how to correct it.


also noticed sync mode jumps from 1 to 2 when on the projector, but on my LCD pc monitor, stays at 0, and will sometimes freeze on 23.9 FPS never freezes on 24 like on the projector
post #1383 of 3345
tothjm

I too use a HTPC for ALL my movie playback (bluray m2ts, 3d iso, mkv, avi, vob, etc) and don't have this issue. I play everything back through XBMC 12.0 Frodo which I highly recommend. In my XBMC settings, I have video playback set to "adjust display refresh rate to match video" and all my movies play back silky smooth.

With that said, MPC-HC, TMT5, PowerDVD, etc all play back my movies smoothly. I just prefer XBMC.
post #1384 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by plasmaowner View Post

tothjm

I too use a HTPC for ALL my movie playback (bluray m2ts, 3d iso, mkv, avi, vob, etc) and don't have this issue. I play everything back through XBMC 12.0 Frodo which I highly recommend. In my XBMC settings, I have video playback set to "adjust display refresh rate to match video" and all my movies play back silky smooth.

With that said, MPC-HC, TMT5, PowerDVD, etc all play back my movies smoothly. I just prefer XBMC.

i am going to try this next and see what happens.... right now watchign the ps4 announcement hehe
post #1385 of 3345
EDIT: so i tried XBMC and once i figured out how to work it, seems the video plays normally... from what i can tell, the stutter was caused by an issue with 24 vs 60hz .... when i play normally from PC, projector stays at 60 hz which was causing issues ( didnt work if i manually set to 23 24 ) but when i use the correct options to match the screen to video, it forces it to 23.998 or whatever it is and works fine.

Thanks for the tip plsmaowner
post #1386 of 3345
Newbie to the projector world here. I just received my HW50ES and am preparing to mount it on my ceiling. My dilemma is deciding which of two throw distances to use. I have a 123" screen and can mount either at 12'8" or 14'3" (from the lens). The Projector Central Calculator gives a minimum throw of 12'5" for this screen size. I remember reading someone's opinion stating that you shouldn't mount within the most forward 10% of the throw range. Is this true? I am using this in a multi-purpose room with medium tone walls & a little bit of ambient light.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated, thanks smile.gif
post #1387 of 3345
Before any knowing answer can be profered, please state what screen material you are using.
post #1388 of 3345
I did a DIY screen (Silver fire v2.5 3.0) over Sintra.
post #1389 of 3345
I am clueless about painted screens. As a general rule with favric screens, at leat white ones with gains, the minimum throw ratio is that of the screen gain. Thus, if a screen had a gain of 1.3, the minimum throew should be 1.3 to avoid hotspotting. I think your paint is a gain of 3/ god help you in your current choices of throws. I would go to the longer of the two. Good luck. And if you don't know what hotspotting is, do not try to learn what it is. you will be happier in the long run. Enjoy your new projector.
post #1390 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I am clueless about painted screens. As a general rule with favric screens, at leat white ones with gains, the minimum throw ratio is that of the screen gain. Thus, if a screen had a gain of 1.3, the minimum throew should be 1.3 to avoid hotspotting. I think your paint is a gain of 3/ god help you in your current choices of throws. I would go to the longer of the two. Good luck. And if you don't know what hotspotting is, do not try to learn what it is. you will be happier in the long run. Enjoy your new projector.

Ha! "..do not try to learn what it is.." Good stuff Mark! Makes me laugh as I recall my recent anxiety over the whole "sub pixel shift" discussion you guys have been having here! Unfortunately, I read much about hotspotting as well before going this DIY route on the screen although I will TRY to avoid looking for it while watching movies! The old saying of "Ignorance is bliss" probably holds true to some degree. smile.gif

If I am remembering correctly, the Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 formulation is a 1.3 gain. So I apologize upfront for my ignorance but when you say if the gain is a 1.3, the min throw should be also 1.3. For my 107" wide screen, that puts a minimum projector distance about 11'7". Following that, then my 12'8" option is ok? And more importantly, preferred to the longer 14'3" option?
post #1391 of 3345
If the gain is 1.3, then any throw 1.3 or longewr should minimize hot spotting but generally the longer the throw the better for all characteristics other than getting maximum lumens out of the projector and on the screen. The minimum throw a Sony wil do is about 1.4. And that is a good number to go no closer than even if a few .01 lower ratio is possible. But I think as a general rule staying away from the extremes in lens throews is a good idea. It leaves room for a little measurement instalation error and lenses tend to perform optically better away from the short throw extreme keeping the exit from the glass area smaller. if it were me, I would use the longer of your two options.


There is no 10% rule or anything like that. Just a generalization to stay away from the close up extreme.
post #1392 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

But I think as a general rule staying away from the extremes in lens throews is a good idea. It leaves room for a little measurement instalation error and lenses tend to perform optically better away from the short throw extreme keeping the exit from the glass area smaller. if it were me, I would use the longer of your two options.

There is no 10% rule or anything like that. Just a generalization to stay away from the close up extreme.

Thank you Mark for taking the time and providing me some insight. smile.gif
post #1393 of 3345
Hello How can I boost yellow @Sony hw50es? In a review I read The Grandview's big pluses are its 3.2" wide frame, and ease of assembly. Its color tone is somewhat colder than that of the Elite White, and you will need to boost yellow on your projector to compensate for it.

Thank you brothers
post #1394 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by tothjm View Post

EDIT: so i tried XBMC and once i figured out how to work it, seems the video plays normally... from what i can tell, the stutter was caused by an issue with 24 vs 60hz .... when i play normally from PC, projector stays at 60 hz which was causing issues ( didnt work if i manually set to 23 24 ) but when i use the correct options to match the screen to video, it forces it to 23.998 or whatever it is and works fine.

Thanks for the tip plsmaowner

Good to hear! With this feature you can keep your display set to 1920x1080p at 60Hz and XBMC will adjust your refresh rate accordingly. With this combo I never have to mess with any display settings. cool.gif
post #1395 of 3345
Does the HW50ES have a manual or motorized zoom?

Thanks
post #1396 of 3345
Manual.
post #1397 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

Hello How can I boost yellow @Sony hw50es? In a review I read The Grandview's big pluses are its 3.2" wide frame, and ease of assembly. Its color tone is somewhat colder than that of the Elite White, and you will need to boost yellow on your projector to compensate for it.

Thank you brothers

three chip projectors do not have yellow as a primary. Just RGB. Gray scale should be measured off the screen and by adjusting the RGB gains and cuts the correct temperature for the gray scale can be dialed in. If a screen shifts to yellow you simply crank in more blue until the metered results read correctly.
post #1398 of 3345
Has anyone else noticed some artifacting on text/subtitles with motionflow activated? (Even on low)
post #1399 of 3345
15 Hours on the bulb and I'm starting to see some flickering when in Low Lamp mode. Switched to High for 1 min and then back to Low fixed it this past time. Did anyone talk to Sony about a long term fix? Or is this just the bulb breaking in?
post #1400 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

15 Hours on the bulb and I'm starting to see some flickering when in Low Lamp mode. Switched to High for 1 min and then back to Low fixed it this past time. Did anyone talk to Sony about a long term fix? Or is this just the bulb breaking in?

This is something common on many different projectors. What's happening is the current moving in the bulb is creating arcs. You should keep the bulb in high lamp mode for a while (at least a few hours) to get rid of the issue. Once it's broken in a bit the issue should be gone completely no matter what lamp mode you're in.
post #1401 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

This is something common on many different projectors. What's happening is the current moving in the bulb is creating arcs. You should keep the bulb in high lamp mode for a while (at least a few hours) to get rid of the issue. Once it's broken in a bit the issue should be gone completely no matter what lamp mode you're in.
The PJ goes into High lamp mode for 3D correct? I've got a couple on my upcoming playlist, so that will help.
Edited by blipszyc - 2/22/13 at 3:07pm
post #1402 of 3345
:)Well I finally got my replacement VPLHW50. It came last Friday and I have switched it back and forth 5 times using different HDMI cables. Here are my results: I returned it because the motion artifact shacking whatever you care to call it was driving me nuts and the projector had a slightly gritty sandy grain in the picture that I could not completely get rid off.
New Unit:
A. Sight sandy grain is completely gone. The detail is significantly better. The pixel structure is very sharp, uniformity and focus outstanding. a very pristine picture quality.

B. The motion artifact is noticeably better. The motion artifact is not nearly as hyper. I do not have to run FI unless I just want to. The motion artifacts seem to be generated from the sources instead of from the projector itself. I no longer just sit and look for them.

C.This one is interesting. The original projector had outstanding panel alignment but the pixels on the left side were slightly soft compared to the right side of the screen. I confirmed this by moving the menu from left bottom to center of screen. Further tweaking with the positioning I found the projector was not absolutely straight. Upon further positioning I got the softness problem 99.5% corrected but still the new projector is significantly better. The catch is the new projector panel alignment is not as precise out of the box as the original but the errors are completely correctable and once corrected the projector panel alignment is better than the first unit.

D: As quiet as the original proj. Was the new one is even quieter. Also the 3D transmitter is much better.

E: The not so good is the grey scale and color is slightly less good. Slight uniformity on a pure white field and when watching black bad white movies.

F: The deep blacks also are not as deep but shadow detail is better.

There you have it. I also want to add that Sony treated me well.
post #1403 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by plasmaowner View Post

tothjm

I too use a HTPC for ALL my movie playback (bluray m2ts, 3d iso, mkv, avi, vob, etc) and don't have this issue. I play everything back through XBMC 12.0 Frodo which I highly recommend. In my XBMC settings, I have video playback set to "adjust display refresh rate to match video" and all my movies play back silky smooth.

With that said, MPC-HC, TMT5, PowerDVD, etc all play back my movies smoothly. I just prefer XBMC.
Do you also use wait for vertical sync option, or just "adjust display refresh rate to match video" option?
post #1404 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by anidabi View Post

Do you also use wait for vertical sync option, or just "adjust display refresh rate to match video" option?

If you are referring to vertical blank sync, i have it set to "Always"

I will admit, i am not sure what that option does, but it works fine like that. I have not tried turning it off.
post #1405 of 3345
When will Sony update this projector? Do they usually release an updated model each year?
Any chance this price bracket Sony model ever gets a motorized zoom with lens memory? I suppose that could canibilize sales of the 95ES model though
post #1406 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by anidabi View Post

Do you also use wait for vertical sync option, or just "adjust display refresh rate to match video" option?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tothjm View Post

If you are referring to vertical blank sync, i have it set to "Always"

I will admit, i am not sure what that option does, but it works fine like that. I have not tried turning it off.

I have mine set to "Always"
post #1407 of 3345
anybody using the cinevista anamororphic lens on this unit? if so how does the 3d work?
post #1408 of 3345
My hw50es should be here tomorrow. For people that have used it in conjunction with the lumagen radiance mini 3d how big of a difference did you notice? I also have a darbee that should be here shortly. Do you feel it is worth the cost to add the lumagen radiance to the chain? I will be projecting on a 123" Stewart Firehawk 3g screen. Currently the mount would have the lense 16ft from the screen. Is that a good position or should I move the ceiling mount? Thanks guys.
post #1409 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidibecker View Post

My hw50es should be here tomorrow. For people that have used it in conjunction with the lumagen radiance mini 3d how big of a difference did you notice? I also have a darbee that should be here shortly. Do you feel it is worth the cost to add the lumagen radiance to the chain? I will be projecting on a 123" Stewart Firehawk 3g screen. Currently the mount would have the lense 16ft from the screen. Is that a good position or should I move the ceiling mount? Thanks guys.

If you are willing to get a Lumagen with say a Chromapure meter and autocal I would say it's worth it. It's quite satisfying to hit a button, leave and come back in 45 or so minutes and have a fully calibrated picture.
post #1410 of 3345
What about the performance of hw50es in an living room? (planning for watching at nights with 1.1 gain elite screen)
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