Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 53

Thanks randman. The projector is ceiling mounted and is plugged in a surge protector but not an UPS. I have a finished theater so it is difficult at this point to properly install an UPS. I realize that in standby mode, the bulb is off. I just want to know if the projector is receiving any electricity in standby mode that could potentially shorten the life of the projector.

I will try your suggestion tonight, RC to me at my seating of 12-13' is terrible. I'm shooting onto 110" screen with a throw of 12' to 13.5', I'm trying different throws. I know I'm new to projectors but for this much money one would figure a decently bright picture and a sharp picture, just my thought. Right now I feel the hw95 is a better picture. My wife even commented that it had a crisper picture with more visible detail. Last night I even wondered if I made the right decision jumping into this, maybe I am over critical.
Edited by huggerx - 3/21/13 at 5:35am

How is the 3d with the 95? or is that even an issue for you.I am coming from a sony 90es and one of the main reasons i went to the 50 was for the lumens in 3d.Your 95 i would imagine has an awesome 2d picture. The 50 for me has a very good 2d and 3d picture quality for me, but one thing i miss with the 90 is the moterized lens, although now that the 50 is set up i rarely ever touch it.

 

I'm at 14' and 126" diagonal (110" wide) and I like RC at 20 or below but I also have a Darbee in the chain.  I also think that RC is very source dependent and some sources will make it appear much more grainy even with a lower setting.  I would recommend trying a Darbee before giving up on it altogether though.  That should still be significantly less expensive than a HW95 (unless you're doing CIH and need the added features of the 95?).

Does anyone know how to reset the vertical lens shift back to its neutral position? I may lower the project at a later time to minimize using the vertical lens shift. Thanks.

In the 10+ years I've been using projectors, I haven't had any issues leaving my projectors in standby mode with current on. I have a whole house surge projector and also in the past had my projectors connected to a dedicated surge protector. Later, I started using a UPS. I had to use an inlet type setup for this since putting a UPS up in the ceiling is impractical. I have something like this:

http://www.panamax.com/PDF/Datasheets/MIW_Fact_Sht_PwrKitTL-2.pdf

I demoed the hw95 and you're right, it's sharper natively then the hw50 but personally I liked the hw50 much better due to RC.

Try this settings...

RC set ON, minimum, noise filtering 0
Sharpness 2
NR HIGH
MPEG NR OFF
Film mode OFF
Contrast Enhancer OFF
Gamma Correction OFF
xvColor OFF
Color Space BT.709

I

Here are my full settings for anyone to try.

User 1
RC set ON, minimum, noise filtering 0
CB Pro Auto Full, Lamp High OR Low.
Film Projection OFF (NEVER turn this on, causes massive flickering)
Motionflow (FI) Low
Contrast, Brightness, Color, Hue (All default settings)
Color Temp. Custom 3
(RGB Settings)
Gain
R 7
G 0
B 3
Offset
R 0
G 1
B -1
Sharpness 2

Expert Settings
NR Meduim
MPEG NR OFF
Film mode OFF
Contrast Enhancer OFF
Gamma Correction OFF
xvColor OFF
Color Space BT.709

Real Color Processing (RCP)
Color setting
[*] Red -7
[*] Yellow -1
[*] Green -5
[*] Cyan -3
[*] Blue -17
[*] Magenta -6

Darbee (If you have one) set to 35 HiDef

Yeah I took them down for now, I put a few up on youtube if you search for tomb raider hw50. Quality is not near as good but should give you a ideal of what I see.

I am aware of the this type of setup. I used something similar for my wall mounted TV. It would be more challenging to retrofit and run Romex through the finished ceiling, although not impossible. I probably will do this down the road.

Hello? bump? Surely someone out there has a ruler and 60 seconds to check this for me...

Thanks in advance

Check the manual at the esupport.sony.com site. I think the manual has a detailed drawing with measurements.

I measure about 9 inches width and 8 inches depth.

Do you have a projector or Tv display that you use these settings with.

Thanks!

Does anyone have the IR codes for the commands Reality Creation, Gamma Toggle, Motion Enhancer and Reference Picture mode?

yes I uploaded them about two weeks ago, they are the hex codes,   the most important one to me was the discrete power off!!  and it works

 

 

 

hw50 IR Hex Codes.docx 13k .docx file

Yeah, I did this myself for my TV and it took me a while to do. My home theater would've been much more challenging and probably would've taken me a large part of the day, but I decided to get an electrician and he did it in an hour. My electricians is amazingly good at snaking wires, even across studs!

 

Can  I use this on my Harmony 900?  I still haven't figured out how to power down my projector with the codes in the Harmony database.  I still have to try more than 2 power toggles as others have reported success doing this.

Thanks for posting this!

The only one missing is the Reality Creation. RCP is in there but not RC. If only the learned worked on my itach.

So the spare lamp is a limited time offer from what I've heard. I think AV Science mentioned it may be ending soon also. Not sure if it translates to other countries or not. What I will tell you is that it does not come in the box. It is shipped as a second package and may not arrive at the same time as the projector. Mine happened to arrive the same day, but others have reported up to a few months wait time. I think it depends. The glasses on the other hand should have both came in the box. Certainly your dealer or Sony should take care of you there.

missing glasses - Check the bottom of the box next to the 2 foam pieces that hold the projector. I know several folks who thought it was just part of the packaging, but the 2nd pair of glasses is at the bottom of the box.

I just installed the HW50ES and I'm having trouble when I switch inputs. I have a Time Warner cable box and a PS3 feeding into an Onkyo TX-SR805. I have a Monoprice Redmere HDMI cable running from the Onkyo to the HW50ES.

Whenever I switch from "cable" to "PS3" the screen just goes to snow. When I switch from "PS3" to "cable" it will show snow for about 5 seconds and then lock on and show the picture. The only way to fix the problem is to power down the receiver and PS3 and unplug the HDMI cables, then restart.

I replaced an old Optoma projector and updated the HDMI cable, otherwise I haven't changed anything in my system and it worked perfectly before. The only new components are the HW50ES and the HDMI cable.

Does anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this problem? Does it sound like a bad HDMI cable? Is there a setting on the HW50ES that I'm missing, maybe a source lock or something? This is driving me nuts!

Thanks in advance...

Do You have the Redmere running in the right direction?

I have a Sony HW50ES with a Stewart Firehawk G3 and am very pleased with it. I was considering a black diamond type screen, but chose the Firehawk for it's better side light rejection capabilities, for the few times I might watch in the afternoon. mostly I watch in the evening. I have very low lamp time thus far, and have the projector set to ecolow lamp output, giving me a very bright image; like watching a plasma in the evening. If you don't care much about 3D, I would go for a 110" Firehawk.

I just installed the HW50ES and I'm having trouble when I switch inputs. I have a Time Warner cable box and a PS3 feeding into an Onkyo TX-SR805. I have a Monoprice Redmere HDMI cable running from the Onkyo to the HW50ES.

Whenever I switch from "cable" to "PS3" the screen just goes to snow. When I switch from "PS3" to "cable" it will show snow for about 5 seconds and then lock on and show the picture. The only way to fix the problem is to power down the receiver and PS3 and unplug the HDMI cables, then restart.

I replaced an old Optoma projector and updated the HDMI cable, otherwise I haven't changed anything in my system and it worked perfectly before. The only new components are the HW50ES and the HDMI cable.

Does anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this problem? Does it sound like a bad HDMI cable? Is there a setting on the HW50ES that I'm missing, maybe a source lock or something? This is driving me nuts!

Thanks in advance...

This is a long shot. You may want to check the HDMI control function in the HDMI setting. I don't remember if the PS3 has this function or not; try to set them both to "off" to see if it helps. I had to turn both the projector and the bluray player to off. Otherwise, I had to re-insert the HDMI cable in order to turn on my player. I know it is a different problem but it won't hurt to try.

^^ sorry. I meant to quote Brox's question.

FWIW, I use a Monoprice redmere HDMI cable from my Marantz AV8801 processor to my HW50ES and have no issues. You probably know this already, but just in case, make sure that your redmere cable is in the correct direction (each end is labeled where it's supposed to be plugged in).

Yeah, from a review that I've read, the Firehawk is better at rejecting light coming in from the sides, while the Black Diamond is better at rejecting light coming in from the ceiling. In my case, the daytime ambient light is coming in from the rear right side of the room, so the Firehawk sounds like it would be better for me. Stewart's web site says that the minimum throw distance for the FireHawk G3 is 1.6 x image width, while the minimum throw distance for the FireHawk SST is 1.4 x image width. A 106" screen is the biggest my room would be able to handle (can't fit a bigger screen in). A 106" screen has a width of 92.5". My projector is about 11' from the screen, so that would be a throw distance of (11 * 12) / 92.5 = 1.43. So, it sounds like a FireHawk SST is better suited for my throw distance than the FireHawk G3. The SST was supposedly designed in collaboration with Sony (back when an old Sony VPL 50 projector came out). The SST's gain is 1.1 while the G3's gain is 1.3. I've read that hot spotting becomes more of an issue at shorter throw distances, so the SST, with its lower gain is more suitable than the G3 for short throw distances. So, sounds like the SST is more appropriate for my needs. Probably not an issue, but I'm wondering what if I were to replace my projector sometime in the distant future (if and when 4K hardware & software become more ubiquitous) to a new projector that is not a Sony, whether there is anything inherent in the SST that wouldn't work as well on a non-Sony projector as on a Sony projector.

You mentioned "If you don't care much about 3D, I would go for a 110" Firehawk". What do you mean by "if you don't care much about 3D"? Is it because the larger the screen the lower the brightness, thereby making 3D even darker? I can't fit a 110" screen in my room anyway. 106" is the biggest I can hold, unfortunately.