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Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 62

post #1831 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post

Does anyone know where to find the Sony PJ1 glasses for less than $100? I can't believe how hard it has been to find these things for even a decent price. Why are the PS3 glasses so much cheaper, and is there any downsides to just buying those instead? I'm fairly happy with the PJ1's, field of view is good, colors seem fairly accurate, and the fit is okay, I only wish the nose piece had a bit of rubber on it.
Several others have found the cheaper PS3 glasses to work well and at the cheaper price, seem to be a good alternative.
post #1832 of 3345
Hi,

I wear prescription glasses. What 3d glasses do you recommend for the 50es?
post #1833 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengali View Post

Hi,

I wear prescription glasses. What 3d glasses do you recommend for the 50es?

If you're interested in RF glasses, the Monster Vision 3D glasses fit great over prescription glasses.

http://www.amazon.com/MonsterVision-Eyewear-System-Active-Sync/dp/B004443WRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368494006&sr=8-1&keywords=monster+vision+3D

These can work at the same time as the Sony glasses.

MV3D.jpg
post #1834 of 3345
I'm in canada and I want to buy an 50es. I can't find any online. Does anyone know how I can get a hold of one? I don't want to drive over the border to get one because of warranty problems. Thanks!!
post #1835 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamd View Post

I'm in canada and I want to buy an 50es. I can't find any online. Does anyone know how I can get a hold of one? I don't want to drive over the border to get one because of warranty problems. Thanks!!

Try here:

http://dealerlocator.sony.ca/locator/init.do

You may have to buy from a local dealer..oh no...... tongue.gif
post #1836 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

Several others have found the cheaper PS3 glasses to work well and at the cheaper price, seem to be a good alternative.

Yeah I know, I just don't understand why they are a fraction of the cost as the PJ1's. What's the catch?
post #1837 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post

Yeah I know, I just don't understand why they are a fraction of the cost as the PJ1's. What's the catch?
I have both and can't tell a difference.
post #1838 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamd View Post

I'm in canada and I want to buy an 50es. I can't find any online. Does anyone know how I can get a hold of one? I don't want to drive over the border to get one because of warranty problems. Thanks!!

Not sure if they are in stock but worth a call.


http://www.quebecacoustic.com/Sony_VPL-HW50ES_projector_Montreal_canada
post #1839 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post

Does anyone know where to find the Sony PJ1 glasses for less than $100? I can't believe how hard it has been to find these things for even a decent price. Why are the PS3 glasses so much cheaper, and is there any downsides to just buying those instead? I'm fairly happy with the PJ1's, field of view is good, colors seem fairly accurate, and the fit is okay, I only wish the nose piece had a bit of rubber on it.

Not much markup on glasses.
Reply
Reply
post #1840 of 3345
I have owned the HW-50 for about 6 months. I have used both the included glasses and the PS3 version that I picked up on sale at Best Buy for $19.99. My last projector was the Sony Pearl. The HW-50 was calibrated to ISF standards for both 2D and 3D. I have found very little difference between the two models of glasses. The PS3 are smaller and fit just a bit tighter, so for long viewing sessions, they tend to be less comportable. The field of view also seems just a little smaller. Otherwise, while some has said that they are not quite a bright, I have not noticed any dimunition in light transfer. I use "Bright Cinema" mode for viewing 3D and it is acceptibly bright with either model. In fact, I bought 5 pairs of the PS3 version for kids and guests.
post #1841 of 3345
Thanks Zombie.

Do you have the links to the lower cost ones that works? I have been reading through first few pages on this forum, too much to cover in one sitting.

Btw, since the focus is manual, does it make sense to use the lens cap? Would that not move the focus ever time you remove the cap or
Put it back on? Or there is some kind of mechanical focus lock?

Waiting for my 50 this week :-)
post #1842 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by prohoc View Post

I have owned the HW-50 for about 6 months. I have used both the included glasses and the PS3 version that I picked up on sale at Best Buy for $19.99. My last projector was the Sony Pearl. The HW-50 was calibrated to ISF standards for both 2D and 3D. I have found very little difference between the two models of glasses. The PS3 are smaller and fit just a bit tighter, so for long viewing sessions, they tend to be less comportable. The field of view also seems just a little smaller. Otherwise, while some has said that they are not quite a bright, I have not noticed any dimunition in light transfer. I use "Bright Cinema" mode for viewing 3D and it is acceptibly bright with either model. In fact, I bought 5 pairs of the PS3 version for kids and guests.

Thanks, that is probably what I will do as well. I really would only like a couple extra pairs, I don't watch a ton of 3D and when I do it's normally just me and maybe Mrs Done Deal. It'd just be nice to have a couple extra pairs just in case of that rare time when a couple friends want to check out 3D.
post #1843 of 3345
Hi prohoc,

Since you mention the included glasses are slightly larger, I will try those first. I was not sure if the included glasses were large enough for presc. glasses.

Thx
post #1844 of 3345
Hi,

Just tried Megamind 3d BD with stock glasses. I can see a lot of flickering. Is this movie dependent or there is something I can adjust?
post #1845 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengali View Post

Hi,

Just tried Megamind 3d BD with stock glasses. I can see a lot of flickering. Is this movie dependent or there is something I can adjust?

you might find yourself sensitive to the flicker in 3D. It will be more evident with a bright animation vs. some of the non-animations.

It's not something you can adjust, it's a side effect of the refresh rate of the SXRD panels / glasses.

Here is an example of the HW50 and a DLP projector. The DLP panels are much faster and there is no detectable flicker in 3D, even for those who are highly sensitive to it.

The effect is being exaggerated by the camera's sensor, but it gives a basic idea of how different these technologies handle 3D.

HW50

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjtCzs1oraM

BenQ W7000

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrAK4hogX8

Give it some time, you'll likely get used to it after a while.
post #1846 of 3345
Do you get flicker with RF glasses as well? Alice in wonderland 3d was nice to watch since it had darker scenes. During the bright scenes flicker is much more noticable as you mentioned.
post #1847 of 3345
I have the S790 blu ray. Is there some general consensus for best settings when using with the 50es? Should I turn off the 4k setting in s790? I had hdmi deep color set to 4:2:2 instead of auto since it was quite dull on my lcd tv.

Thx
post #1848 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengali View Post

Do you get flicker with RF glasses as well? Alice in wonderland 3d was nice to watch since it had darker scenes. During the bright scenes flicker is much more noticable as you mentioned.

Yes, the Monster Vision 3D's will look the same as the factory glasses. If we use the same MV3D glasses on the Sharp 30K DLP, the 3D image will appears as solid as watching regular 2D. This is one of the benefits of the DLP panels since they are much faster than the SXRD panels.

Many folks don't directly see it but I do think it subconsciously lends itself to headaches that some folks get from watching 3D. There appears to be a direct correlation for flicker based on the panel speed. So for those sensitive to it, it goes from perfect to migraine in this order:

Any 3D DLP > Epson 5010/5020 (480hz) > Sony HW50 (240hz) > Any 3D JVC (120hz)

As time goes on, you'll likely get used to it. Reducing screen reflections off adjacent walls and ceilings can help minimize the perception of the flicker.
post #1849 of 3345
Something I've been trying to figure out for the last week or so deals with the 3d performance. On 3d Blurays the performance is outstanding. Rock solid sync given you keep your head pointed forward (or at least don't look away for 3plus seconds. However any 3d streamed from cable on demand has a blink every 5-10 seconds that renders it unwatchable for me. I'm not authorized to speak for my company, but I will say that I have access to virtually limitless settops of various models and firmware versions and they all have had this issue. In our lab with a 3d television I do not see this symptom, though the actual 3d affect is much weaker than my HW-50.

I've tried playing with settings but haven't been able to fix it. My best guess is that it has something to do with the over-under configuration of the content but I can't be sure.

Any ideas?
post #1850 of 3345
Hey guys I will be getting a 50es soon, I remember hearing about the projector making a sound while in 3d, it was a high pitch sound. Has this problem been fixed?

Thanks
post #1851 of 3345
I don't think it was a high pitched sound, I think it was more of a buzzing sound. I purchased mine a few weeks back and don't have any issue with buzzing in 3D, but it seems to be a mixed bag even on new units. I wouldn't worry about it, worst case you get an external emitter which resolves the issue.
post #1852 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Yes, the Monster Vision 3D's will look the same as the factory glasses. If we use the same MV3D glasses on the Sharp 30K DLP, the 3D image will appears as solid as watching regular 2D. This is one of the benefits of the DLP panels since they are much faster than the SXRD panels.

Many folks don't directly see it but I do think it subconsciously lends itself to headaches that some folks get from watching 3D. There appears to be a direct correlation for flicker based on the panel speed. So for those sensitive to it, it goes from perfect to migraine in this order:

Any 3D DLP > Epson 5010/5020 (480hz) > Sony HW50 (240hz) > Any 3D JVC (120hz)

As time goes on, you'll likely get used to it. Reducing screen reflections off adjacent walls and ceilings can help minimize the perception of the flicker.

Thanks Zombie. I definately overlooked the flicker issue. I was reading about brightness, crosstalk. I have no issues with those :-)

Oh well, I won't be watching as much 3d as I would like to. Don't know if I will get use to it, like you said, headache afterward is no fun.
post #1853 of 3345
How do you guys find the black levels on the sony, in a light controlled room would it compete with plasma black level or am I hopping for to
much.
post #1854 of 3345
I think you're hoping for too much. My understanding is that even a JVC (widely recognized to achieve the best black levels in this range) doesn't quite reach plasma (e.g. Pioneer Kuro or Panny VT series) level blacks even in a "blacked out" room. HST, I still own a 60" Kuro and on my 126" screen at 16' throw and 14' seating, I think it's very acceptable in a light controlled basement with white ceiling and beige walls. YMMV
post #1855 of 3345
Is anyone using their Sony with an anamorphic lens? If so, which one and how is it working out? What screen are you currently using and why?
I just got my hw50 last week and I'm still in the process of deciding on a screen.

Thanks all...
post #1856 of 3345
With front projection what your absolute black level is is a bit more complicated than with a flat panel TV. You have the value k, which is the minimum light output that your projector is capable of, which will be influenced by things like iris settings and bulb aging, and then you must use that number with the total area of your screen and its gain, just as if you were calculating brightness. Home Theater measured the contrast ratio of the 50ES (with dynamic iris engaged) at 20,894:1. They measured a minimum brightness (taken from the lens, then converted to ftL) of .0008 ftL. They used a 96-inch wide 1.3 gain Stewart screen. The black level measured from various Kuros over the the years is somewhere between .0005 ftL and .001 ftL, so you're in the ballpark. How that will look subjectively in a room dark enough to take advantage of a black level that low with a projector is another matter.

BTW, k in the above example would be .0233 lumens.
post #1857 of 3345
Thanks for the input guys sounds like I will be happy with the black levels. I have a panasonic vt50 in our family room and a wt50 I the bedroom so I'm used to good blacks. When I had the w1070 benq I would go to it a be disappointed in the grey levels. The vt hits .002fl so that reading on the sony makes me very happy.
post #1858 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by howletus View Post

Is anyone using their Sony with an anamorphic lens? If so, which one and how is it working out? What screen are you currently using and why?
I just got my hw50 last week and I'm still in the process of deciding on a screen.

Thanks all...
I am using the new isco xl with a Cineslide on a 150" wide Enlighter 4k screen. I love this combo.
post #1859 of 3345
See next post
post #1860 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by karcs View Post

So far I have tried 4 different HDMI cables. My original 25ft, 2 different 10ft, and a 6ft I borrowed from my dealer. All cables seem to work fine with the laptop and blu-ray (standalone) player, but as soon as I hook up my HTPC I get those issues. And with the HTPC, ONLY with the new projector, other display devices with the same output work flawlessly.

Again, it is not always immediate, sometimes 5, sometimes 10 minutes of clean image before it either blacks/blanks out or lines. Sometimes I have even got what looks like a ghosted image of whatever is on the screen on the bottom half of the picture.

All equipment direct to the projector, not going between anything else. No other switches, no receiver, just the source and 1 of the (now) 4 cables smile.gif

I am sure you already saw this from the troubleshooting section of the manual:
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