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Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 68

post #2011 of 2029
6/13/13 at 4:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by howletus View Post

Hey Mike. Doesn't the HW50 come with 2 pairs of glasses? I only got one.

Check the box carefully. One set of glasses is buried in the packaging...looks like filler. You wouldn't be the first not to see this!
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post #2012 of 2029
6/13/13 at 5:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

Check the box carefully. One set of glasses is buried in the packaging...looks like filler. You wouldn't be the first not to see this!

Yeah, double check the box contents. From what I remember when I unboxed mine I had to search for them too. They do not place the glasses next to each other so it throws you off.
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post #2013 of 2029
6/13/13 at 7:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

Check the box carefully. One set of glasses is buried in the packaging...looks like filler. You wouldn't be the first not to see this!

Yep. It would have saved us (probably Sony also) a few calls if they had located them together. smile.gif
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post #2014 of 2029
6/13/13 at 9:33pm
Hi,

I have been using the Epson Duet Portable Screen for temporary test of the 50es. I finally had a chance
to mount an Elite Spectrum 125" Motorized screen. The picture is just great. I sit back about 9' so
the screen is quite large, fine with me biggrin.gif

My walls/ceiling are standard white paint and even when I watch at night, I tend to use high brightness mode.
Is this because of the white walls or the screen size? I could reduce screen size to approx. 104" but that
is the smallest I can go with limited distance I have.

I'm pretty happy with how a $250.00 screen turned out. My question is jumping to $1K+ screen, will
I really gain better colors, sharpness,details? My limited setup, I still require a motorized screen so
I can use my lcd tv during the day.

The Elite Cinetension is up there in price but they are not in that league like the Stewart, etc...

What motorized 125" would you suggest? I read cinegray's are better when using white walls but they
have lower gain right? So with 3D, it is even worst.
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post #2015 of 2029
6/14/13 at 2:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengali View Post

Hi,

I have been using the Epson Duet Portable Screen for temporary test of the 50es. I finally had a chance
to mount an Elite Spectrum 125" Motorized screen. The picture is just great. I sit back about 9' so
the screen is quite large, fine with me biggrin.gif

My walls/ceiling are standard white paint and even when I watch at night, I tend to use high brightness mode.
Is this because of the white walls or the screen size? I could reduce screen size to approx. 104" but that
is the smallest I can go with limited distance I have.

I'm pretty happy with how a $250.00 screen turned out. My question is jumping to $1K+ screen, will
I really gain better colors, sharpness,details? My limited setup, I still require a motorized screen so
I can use my lcd tv during the day.

The Elite Cinetension is up there in price but they are not in that league like the Stewart, etc...

What motorized 125" would you suggest? I read cinegray's are better when using white walls but they
have lower gain right? So with 3D, it is even worst.

I don't think you will be able to get a much better motorized screen than the Elite at that price point and screen size. Your problem with the brightness is that the Elite has very little to no gain, and you have a relatively large screen. An optically better screen with the other features you want (125", motorized) will very likely cost much more than $1k. Elite offers the Cinetension2 at 120" for about $1k, but it's also rated at 1.1 gain. Now, I've owned both the Cinetension2 and the regular Elite motorized, and the Cinetension2 does look a little better in terms of sharpness and color etc., but it's not a night and day difference. (less screen texture)

Maybe look at used screens?
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post #2016 of 2029
6/14/13 at 7:24pm
Hi Ivan,

Great info, thank you. I have seen several used Stewarts but they are fixed screens and read some review for grey ones, they said the stewart is only good if ceiling mount because of the way it is designed. I will just hold off for now and enjoy what I have, although the using the lamp in full brightness, lose more hours on it.

Btw, I like the square look of the cheaper spectrum. I know the cinetension stretches the fabric for better uniform look but the edges look pretty rough to the eyes. Too bad they did not just cover it up with more black border for normal theater screen look.

I was switching different color modes with the sony remote, it caused the spectrum screen to scroll back up, freaked me out, I t thought it went crazy.
it must have received the correct IR packets for the Up mode :-)
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post #2017 of 2029
6/17/13 at 3:58am
I have Sony HW50ES and 106inch elite fixed frame 1.1 matte white. Do you suggest Darbee? Will i notice a good difference? (viewing distance 12 feet) is it worth to buy?
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post #2018 of 2029
6/17/13 at 5:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

I have Sony HW50ES and 106inch elite fixed frame 1.1 matte white. Do you suggest Darbee? Will i notice a good difference? (viewing distance 12 feet) is it worth to buy?

You can run a Darbee and the RC engine from the projector @ the same time for a sharper image quality .. what color are your walls and ceiling?
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post #2019 of 2029
6/17/13 at 6:30am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

I have Sony HW50ES and 106inch elite fixed frame 1.1 matte white. Do you suggest Darbee? Will i notice a good difference? (viewing distance 12 feet) is it worth to buy?

I have a similar setup and the Darbee makes quite a difference. The source content needs to be of good quality for good results though.
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post #2020 of 2029
6/17/13 at 8:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZaus View Post

You can run a Darbee and the RC engine from the projector @ the same time for a sharper image quality .. what color are your walls and ceiling?

The walls and ceiling are dark matte grey
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post #2021 of 2029
6/17/13 at 8:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by smbsocal View Post

I have a similar setup and the Darbee makes quite a difference. The source content needs to be of good quality for good results though.

can you give an example for good quality? I mean 8-10 gb 1080p bluray movies oke or full bluray movies? thank you brothers
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post #2022 of 2029
6/17/13 at 11:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cemo62 View Post

can you give an example for good quality? I mean 8-10 gb 1080p bluray movies oke or full bluray movies? thank you brothers

Cemo62, Anytime you have dark grey or dark walls you will get get contrast on your picture quality with light control , that is a big plus.. also blu-ray is always great, dvd are good quality..you can also hook it up to a satilite or cable box and take advantage for what it offers. now when you move back to the old VCD/VHS era.. that get's questionable on any projector.. Use the Darbee and the RC engine on.. you will love it.. it does make a difference with both units on.. see for your self..
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post #2023 of 2029
6/17/13 at 7:09pm
I have started getting colored bands of random noise when an all-white scene is shown. I am pretty sure this wasn't always there and happens with different sources. When I get a chance I am going to start trying different cables and direct wiring to make sure it isn't a cable or AVR issue, just checking here to see if anyone has seen a similar issue. It only happens when the screen is all-white (from any source), or when I need to boot my HTPC to BIOS or DOS for some reason.
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post #2024 of 2029
6/17/13 at 11:52pm
If your replacement lamp is flickering or just doesn't work, here is why:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPzRPga6uDg&feature=player_embedded
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post #2025 of 2029
6/17/13 at 11:52pm
Hi,

can some one suggest setting for more color pop (vivid/vibrant colors)? I like the natural accurate colors but sometimes want some extra punch to it.
what color space, etc.. do you suggest. I would like to modify the TV mode so I can jump to it at any time.

thanks
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post #2026 of 2029
6/18/13 at 5:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElCapitano View Post

If your replacement lamp is flickering or just doesn't work, here is why:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPzRPga6uDg&feature=player_embedded

 

That was hilarious!  Better go check my bulb! eek.gif

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post #2027 of 2029
6/18/13 at 9:05pm
The only place I have to mount the projector is using lag bolts in the ceiling beams that also help support one of the HVAC fans in the attic. When the AC is running, there are vibrations being transmitted to the projector that are noticeable (I can feel it shaking if I put my hand on it and can see the image moving). Never noticed this during the winter with just the heater running, but seems to be pretty constant now that summer is here.

This mount from Peerless claims to eliminate the vibration and has a 60lbs capacity (HW50ES is just under 30 lbs).
http://www.standsandmounts.com/peerlessantivibrationceilingplateforstructuralceilings-acc-840.aspx

Anyone have experience with it, or recommendations for another way to prevent vibration? Only negative I can see is that it may interfere with where my outlet (for HDMI/power) currently is located and I really don't have time to deal with more drywall work right now.

EDIT - the projector isn't directly under the HVAC unit, but that unit is mounted on the flooring in the attic that also attaches to this beam.
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post #2028 of 2029
6/18/13 at 9:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BartMan01 View Post

The only place I have to mount the projector is using lag bolts in the ceiling beams that also help support one of the HVAC fans in the attic. When the AC is running, there are vibrations being transmitted to the projector that are noticeable (I can feel it shaking if I put my hand on it and can see the image moving). Never noticed this during the winter with just the heater running, but seems to be pretty constant now that summer is here.

This mount from Peerless claims to eliminate the vibration and has a 60lbs capacity (HW50ES is just under 30 lbs).
http://www.standsandmounts.com/peerlessantivibrationceilingplateforstructuralceilings-acc-840.aspx

Anyone have experience with it, or recommendations for another way to prevent vibration? Only negative I can see is that it may interfere with where my outlet (for HDMI/power) currently is located and I really don't have time to deal with more drywall work right now.

EDIT - the projector isn't directly under the HVAC unit, but that unit is mounted on the flooring in the attic that also attaches to this beam.

I don't think there's anything you can do to eliminate that type of vibration since it will be transmitted through the lag bolts straight into the mount, regardless of any isolation you use.. but you can try to isolate that connection with some rubber grommets. Maybe you could use drwall anchors and mount to the ceiling instead of into the framing. The projector is light and won't fall if you do this properly.
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post #2029 of 2029
6/19/13 at 5:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BartMan01 View Post

The only place I have to mount the projector is using lag bolts in the ceiling beams that also help support one of the HVAC fans in the attic. When the AC is running, there are vibrations being transmitted to the projector that are noticeable (I can feel it shaking if I put my hand on it and can see the image moving). Never noticed this during the winter with just the heater running, but seems to be pretty constant now that summer is here.

This mount from Peerless claims to eliminate the vibration and has a 60lbs capacity (HW50ES is just under 30 lbs).
http://www.standsandmounts.com/peerlessantivibrationceilingplateforstructuralceilings-acc-840.aspx

Anyone have experience with it, or recommendations for another way to prevent vibration? Only negative I can see is that it may interfere with where my outlet (for HDMI/power) currently is located and I really don't have time to deal with more drywall work right now.

EDIT - the projector isn't directly under the HVAC unit, but that unit is mounted on the flooring in the attic that also attaches to this beam.

Rather than trying to keep the vibration from getting into the projector, why not just keep the vibration from getting into the framing? Mount isolators under the the equipment.
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