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Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 92

post #2731 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post


Same here - doing the poor man's scope. Most of my material is Scope so it's not a big deal, and the wife and I are getting used to watching most of our TV zoomed in anyway. At this point I really only change it for gaming and sports, and when I do that, it's 10-20 seconds at the most. I've found that I don't even need to touch the focus ring, but your results may vary. I was looking at either getting a lens or a Radiance, but don't really see the need to spend the $$ now.

Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking/hoping that would be the case. Accessing my projector won't be an issue as it will be right above 2nd row on riser.
post #2732 of 3345
Just received my Carada 118" screen and HW50ES today, assembled the screen, leaned it up against the wall for now and fired up the projector. And, oh. My. Goodness. I am thoroughly impressed. I'm pretty sure I told Mike wrong room dimensions so my screen isn't quite filled all the way with the current setup, but I don't really care too much. Also, I could remedy this by mounting the screen on the adjacent wall and just vowing never to use my back door again, (only here on a 3 year assignment so it shouldn't be too bad biggrin.gif).

Also, honestly, it's bright enough to watch some casual stuff with my living room lights on full blast. We'll see how it performs in the day though. Gah! I'm in love already!
post #2733 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyS84 View Post

Just received my Carada 118" screen and HW50ES today, assembled the screen, leaned it up against the wall for now and fired up the projector. And, oh. My. Goodness. I am thoroughly impressed. I'm pretty sure I told Mike wrong room dimensions so my screen isn't quite filled all the way with the current setup, but I don't really care too much. Also, I could remedy this by mounting the screen on the adjacent wall and just vowing never to use my back door again, (only here on a 3 year assignment so it shouldn't be too bad biggrin.gif).

Also, honestly, it's bright enough to watch some casual stuff with my living room lights on full blast. We'll see how it performs in the day though. Gah! I'm in love already!

Ahhhh, the honeymoon, always so memorable and best the first few times indeed. You may want to turn the lights down a little or you may have the neighbors watching biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifwink.gif
post #2734 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by roxiedog13 View Post

Ahhhh, the honeymoon, always so memorable and best the first few times indeed. You may want to turn the lights down a little or you may have the neighbors watching biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifwink.gif

Haha, it's so glorious!! Neighbors better not be mooching off of MY screen. They've got a baby and I live by the words of the great Dave Chappelle, "Betta not bring yo kids!" so they're not invited over. cool.gif
post #2735 of 3345
Random (maybe stupid) question for y'all. I'm renting this place so I don't have many options, but I was wondering if you had any suggestions on how to run the power cable. I imagined just running an extension cord along with the HDMI through some cable hider type things up the wall and ceiling. But if you've got any more elegant ideas in mind, please help a brotha out.
post #2736 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyS84 View Post

Random (maybe stupid) question for y'all. I'm renting this place so I don't have many options, but I was wondering if you had any suggestions on how to run the power cable. I imagined just running an extension cord along with the HDMI through some cable hider type things up the wall and ceiling. But if you've got any more elegant ideas in mind, please help a brotha out.

I used a small cable chanel/track to hide the HDMI, it could have easily held the small lamp sized wire necessary for power as well. The piece I had was peal and stick, it comes in a 8ft length and the profile is about 1/2" X 1 1/4" wide. It is a two piece such that
the cable track is stuck onto the surface, the cable placed inside and then the cover snaps on. I had this stuff in inventory, so that was easy for me and I live in a small remote city. I'm sure a large center would have this same cable track in many colors to suit
your specific needs.
post #2737 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyS84 View Post

Random (maybe stupid) question for y'all. I'm renting this place so I don't have many options, but I was wondering if you had any suggestions on how to run the power cable. I imagined just running an extension cord along with the HDMI through some cable hider type things up the wall and ceiling. But if you've got any more elegant ideas in mind, please help a brotha out.
Since you're renting the cable track will probably be the best compromise unless you have access to the ceiling through an attic and can convince your landlord to cut a hole in the ceiling. (tell them It could later be a fan or chandelier outlet smile.gif ) There are also flat HDMI cables that can be painted.
post #2738 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

Is anyone running the 50ES on a scope screen? I'm wondering how big of a pain in the a$$ it is to manually zoom the lens when switching aspect ratios.

I am using a 125" 2.35 scope Cinetension2 screen with the 50es. I'm running mine with a Lumagen so I can change aspect ratios on the fly and even use NLS to make 16:9 content fill my 2.35 screen (it does cut off some of the top and bottom of the video). I love this combination, I just couldn't go without being able to change the AR on the fly. This is my fourth projector, the three previous ones I had were all Panasonic models (AE4000, 7000, 8000) which all had lens memory.

I would like to purchase a cheap used anamorphic lens to complete my setup but they are so expensive and rare to find at a good price online (either on forums or ebay).
post #2739 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by madurodave View Post

So it the extrenal transmitter from Sony also?

I guess I should ping Mike from AVS for info.

Yes, the external emitter is a Sony product. AVS have the best price but didn't have any in stock when I wanted one. Eventually I got tired of waiting and ordered one from Best Buy on-line (at this link). Shipping was free and it arrived the next day. As (bad) luck would have it, AVS got a shipment of transmitters in right after I installed the one from Best Buy. Wasn't worth dealing with the hassle of a Best buy return for a few bucks, so I kept the one I had.

I didn't like having to spend anymore to get the 3D to work reliably, but when you factor in how cheaply one can get compatible 3D glasses, it probably pays for itself in my set-up (7 seats) as opposed to using a RF solution with more expensive glasses.

I NEVER experienced any buzz whatsoever when using the internal emitter. I do know that was a problem with the very earliest units, but later shipment included a revised board which eliminated the buzz.

I watched the Croods movie in 3D with my wife last night. The 3D effects were somewhat restrained but they had a few instances when embers, dust particles, flower petals would float out of the screen right at you. Fortunately, apart from one scene early on when the family was hunting the egg, the image was almost always very solid with no discernible flicker.

I used the PS3 glasses and while the image quality was fully on par with the glasses that came with the projector, I found the arms to be a little tight on my head. I think I'll keep them for the kids.
Edited by ktoolsie - 10/3/13 at 11:32am
post #2740 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoneyman2323 View Post


I would like to purchase a cheap used anamorphic lens to complete my setup but they are so expensive and rare to find at a good price online (either on forums or ebay).
Not sure why you would still want a lens if you're using a Lumagen? What is your reasoning?
post #2741 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktoolsie View Post

I watched the Croods movie in 3D with my wife last night. The 3D effects were somewhat restrained but they had a few instances when embers, dust particles, flower petals would float out of the screen right at you. Fortunately, apart from one scene early on when the family was hunting the egg, the image was almost always very solid with no discernible flicker.
After watching several 3D movies in a real theater and then back in my own theater, I think the main problem with "pop" is the distance to the screen. In a real theater, almost the entire field of view is taken up by the screen and so to our eyes (and brain) the 3D pops more. However, back in our home theaters, I'm guessing most of us sit far enough away that we have floors, walls, and ceilings in our periphery and that somehow convinces our brains that the 3D isn't as prevalent. I haven't tested this theory yet by sitting closer, but will get a chance in a few weeks when my niece and nephew are in town and they want to watch Yogi Bear in 3D.
post #2742 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

After watching several 3D movies in a real theater and then back in my own theater, I think the main problem with "pop" is the distance to the screen. In a real theater, almost the entire field of view is taken up by the screen and so to our eyes (and brain) the 3D pops more. However, back in our home theaters, I'm guessing most of us sit far enough away that we have floors, walls, and ceilings in our periphery and that somehow convinces our brains that the 3D isn't as prevalent. I haven't tested this theory yet by sitting closer, but will get a chance in a few weeks when my niece and nephew are in town and they want to watch Yogi Bear in 3D.

It's totally true I made the choice to sit closer since I discovered this fact. My recommendation: distance between your head and your screen = width of the screen
post #2743 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

Not sure why you would still want a lens if you're using a Lumagen? What is your reasoning?

Just to have all 1920x1080 pixels. Zooming in with the lumagen roughly 20% of the pixels are being used by black bars that overshoot the screen onto the wall. So really you can expect a slightly sharper picture. I never had a lens or even seen one in person so I don't know if it's worth the pricetag or not, but I would like one to see what all the fuss is about.
post #2744 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

After watching several 3D movies in a real theater and then back in my own theater, I think the main problem with "pop" is the distance to the screen. In a real theater, almost the entire field of view is taken up by the screen and so to our eyes (and brain) the 3D pops more. However, back in our home theaters, I'm guessing most of us sit far enough away that we have floors, walls, and ceilings in our periphery and that somehow convinces our brains that the 3D isn't as prevalent. I haven't tested this theory yet by sitting closer, but will get a chance in a few weeks when my niece and nephew are in town and they want to watch Yogi Bear in 3D.

There is no doubt that the 3-D effects become more pronounced the closer you are to the screen. I've walked up the screen with a movie playing and seen the images jump out more as i approached the screen. That being said, I prefer a more restrained 3-D presentation that I get from my back row of seats as opposed to the "pop" of the front row. Don't get me wrong, I like the jaw-dropping 3-D moments but I don't want them coming along every 30 seconds.
post #2745 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoneyman2323 View Post

Just to have all 1920x1080 pixels. Zooming in with the lumagen roughly 20% of the pixels are being used by black bars that overshoot the screen onto the wall. So really you can expect a slightly sharper picture. I never had a lens or even seen one in person so I don't know if it's worth the pricetag or not, but I would like one to see what all the fuss is about.

I read a professional assessment of the A lens a while back and it convinced me to steer clear. If I can find the article I will post the same. In a nut shell the little you gain is insignificant and the price way high for a descent A lens.

OK, so I found it in a quick search, have a read.

http://www.tlvexp.ca/2012/06/2-35-lens-versus-zoom-fight/
post #2746 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulnight View Post

It's totally true I made the choice to sit closer since I discovered this fact. My recommendation: distance between your head and your screen = width of the screen

I too figured this out by accident, trial and error...what ever. For 3D to work in my brain my field of vision has to be full. When I go back a row and other items in the room
become part of my peripheral vision the 3D effect is lost almost entirely.
post #2747 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by roxiedog13 View Post

I read a professional assessment of the A lens a while back and it convinced me to steer clear. If I can find the article I will post the same. In a nut shell the little you gain is insignificant and the price way high for a descent A lens.

OK, so I found it in a quick search, have a read.

http://www.tlvexp.ca/2012/06/2-35-lens-versus-zoom-fight/

I've seen that article numerous times...unfortunately it isn't objective. There is so many numbers that are not substantiated that I can't take it seriously. The 1.4% light number is complete ********. It may have been true for that specific setup, but it is not true in general, not even remotely! I've just never seen a lens drop that much light. The much light absorption would probably distort the lens do to heat. The loss of 25% light on a perforated screen. Is he serious? The only way to lose 25% light on a perf screen is to have nearly 25% of the screen material removed which is NEVER true. Again, where is the measurement. The picture will be "sharper"? Where was a nice screen camera shot proving his point? If he could afford to have that level of gear to test, he had enough for a decent SLR + lens to PROVE his point. But he didn't. He wanted zoom to win...PERIOD.

The truth of the matter is this, zoom will NEVER be as good an A-lens for scope material. But, it can get you a large portion of the way there with out spending extra $. Anybody who writes otherwise is being disingenuous. With 4k coming quickly, that line may shift a bit more. But we will see.
post #2748 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoneyman2323 View Post

Just to have all 1920x1080 pixels. Zooming in with the lumagen roughly 20% of the pixels are being used by black bars that overshoot the screen onto the wall. So really you can expect a slightly sharper picture. I never had a lens or even seen one in person so I don't know if it's worth the pricetag or not, but I would like one to see what all the fuss is about.
But aren't those black bars already part of the signal? All you're doing is moving them off screen. An A lens isn't going to magically convert those black bars into footage. I don't have either at the moment so I can only speak from what I've seen at local stores that do have the setups, but personally, I don't see the need for both. So, if you do get a lens and want to get rid of that Lumagen, shoot me a IM. tongue.gif
post #2749 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

But aren't those black bars already part of the signal? All you're doing is moving them off screen. An A lens isn't going to magically convert those black bars into footage. I don't have either at the moment so I can only speak from what I've seen at local stores that do have the setups, but personally, I don't see the need for both. So, if you do get a lens and want to get rid of that Lumagen, shoot me a IM. tongue.gif

The black bars are not part of the picture when using an anamorphic lens and a scaler like a lumagen or a oppo bd player or something. The scaler (in my case a lumagen) is used to perform a vertical stretch to the image which turns the picture back into like a 16:9 ratio (using all pixels in the projector, eliminating black bars) but now the sides would be squeezed in and the image will be distorted because the original image was formatted in 2.35 not 16:9 so we need to stretch the picture back out horizontally as well. Then you put the anamorphic lens in the view of the projector and the lens performs a horizontal stretch on the image, without black bars and you get all available pixels for the 2.35 image. Whic should in theory result in a sharper image because you are using those extra 20-30% of pixels that were being used as black bars before. Some projectors can perform the vertical stretching for you, so some people don't need a scaler but the Lumagen can be used for much more than scaling needs.

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, as I don't have a lens I'm just going off of research.
post #2750 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

But aren't those black bars already part of the signal? All you're doing is moving them off screen. An A lens isn't going to magically convert those black bars into footage. I don't have either at the moment so I can only speak from what I've seen at local stores that do have the setups, but personally, I don't see the need for both. So, if you do get a lens and want to get rid of that Lumagen, shoot me a IM. tongue.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmoneyman2323 View Post

The black bars are not part of the picture when using an anamorphic lens and a scaler like a lumagen or a oppo bd player or something. The scaler (in my case a lumagen) is used to perform a vertical stretch to the image which turns the picture back into like a 16:9 ratio (using all pixels in the projector, eliminating black bars) but now the sides would be squeezed in and the image will be distorted because the original image was formatted in 2.35 not 16:9 so we need to stretch the picture back out horizontally as well. Then you put the anamorphic lens in the view of the projector and the lens performs a horizontal stretch on the image, without black bars and you get all available pixels for the 2.35 image. Whic should in theory result in a sharper image because you are using those extra 20-30% of pixels that were being used as black bars before. Some projectors can perform the vertical stretching for you, so some people don't need a scaler but the Lumagen can be used for much more than scaling needs.

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, as I don't have a lens I'm just going off of research.

Since the vertical stretch is a scaling function and the Lumagen specializes in scaling, you will probably find that the scope image using the lens is sharpest if using the Lumagen for the stretch mode rather than the projector. This is one of the reasons why I use a Lumagen, even though my projector has anamorphic stretch.
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post #2751 of 3345
I just ordered my 50ES and it will arrive in 2 weeks. I got the last one Sony in Asia Pac will be bringing in apparently. Unfortunately, they had only white left so I have a couple of questions please:

1) I presume this projector works fine upside down?
2) I have an AmberTec 106" Motorized Screen 3.9M from the lens, I presume this is ok ?
3) Anyone have any comments about how a white projector looks in a living room with a white celing but darkish carpet and black furniture. We never really notice the big black box that is the
4) I will need some additional glasses, which ones are best and does someone have a bead on where they might be most cost effectively located.
5) Calibration. I have a Spyder 3 TV calibration kit I got with my HC6800 I never used still in it's box. Will this do an ok job? Should I use any of the calibration recommendations by other people or is it individual and irrelevant? I keep second guessing my calibration choices wondering if they are "right"


I am very excited about my new toy. I have 2 new next gen consoles coming and hopefully some spare time over xmas!
post #2752 of 3345
Hey guys, im pretty new to projectors and recently picked up a w1070. Maybe in the future I will pick up a hw50es, I understand that this is a tough question to ask but how would the black levels compare to say my NX810? (In a room with lights off)
Yesyerday I was comparing my w1070 and the colors seemed close to the LED but the blacks........eek.gif made me sick aha

Its mostly the black bars that annoy me in movies, I am even thinking of grabbing some velvet and making 2 planks to put up when I watch movies...
post #2753 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by networkn View Post

I just ordered my 50ES and it will arrive in 2 weeks. I got the last one Sony in Asia Pac will be bringing in apparently. Unfortunately, they had only white left so I have a couple of questions please:

1) I presume this projector works fine upside down?
2) I have an AmberTec 106" Motorized Screen 3.9M from the lens, I presume this is ok ?
3) Anyone have any comments about how a white projector looks in a living room with a white celing but darkish carpet and black furniture. We never really notice the big black box that is the
4) I will need some additional glasses, which ones are best and does someone have a bead on where they might be most cost effectively located.
5) Calibration. I have a Spyder 3 TV calibration kit I got with my HC6800 I never used still in it's box. Will this do an ok job? Should I use any of the calibration recommendations by other people or is it individual and irrelevant? I keep second guessing my calibration choices wondering if they are "right"


I am very excited about my new toy. I have 2 new next gen consoles coming and hopefully some spare time over xmas!

Works fine upside down.

I think the white will blend with a white ceiling very well. I would have liked white and was disappointed it wasn't available in the US. I'd try to get a white mount if I were you...

You can get cheap PS3 3D glasses on amazon. They are usually around $17, but go on sale. I got some for $13. If you're not in a hurry, set a price alert on amazon and wait...
post #2754 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by networkn View Post

I just ordered my 50ES and it will arrive in 2 weeks. I got the last one Sony in Asia Pac will be bringing in apparently. Unfortunately, they had only white left so I have a couple of questions please:

1) I presume this projector works fine upside down?
2) I have an AmberTec 106" Motorized Screen 3.9M from the lens, I presume this is ok ?
3) Anyone have any comments about how a white projector looks in a living room with a white celing but darkish carpet and black furniture. We never really notice the big black box that is the
4) I will need some additional glasses, which ones are best and does someone have a bead on where they might be most cost effectively located.
5) Calibration. I have a Spyder 3 TV calibration kit I got with my HC6800 I never used still in it's box. Will this do an ok job? Should I use any of the calibration recommendations by other people or is it individual and irrelevant? I keep second guessing my calibration choices wondering if they are "right"


I am very excited about my new toy. I have 2 new next gen consoles coming and hopefully some spare time over xmas!


Abort calibrating. Forget the spider stuff.
You have a better result with settings like this On the hw50.
Cinema 1, iris auto full (((high))) on lumen, color space rec709, greyscale D65.
The color space is very good out of the box, in high...I have checked 6 hw50
Not 100% but god enough. And the greyscale will be better untouched compared with a spider3 forget it.
post #2755 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dj Dee View Post

Abort calibrating. Forget the spider stuff.
You have a better result with settings like this On the hw50.
Cinema 1, iris auto full (((high))) on lumen, color space rec709, greyscale D65.
The color space is very good out of the box, in high...I have checked 6 hw50
Not 100% but god enough. And the greyscale will be better untouched compared with a spider3 forget it.

Thanks, I presume this will all make sense once it arrives and I can see the various menus etc?

Appreciate the reply.
post #2756 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by madurodave View Post

Hopefully!

I watched Star Trek Into Darkness 3D last weekend. I thought it was ok, not great. Seems a little too fake (yes, I know it is fake) to my eyes. My wife actually got a headache (some people experience this).

I was surprised when I went to Best Buy and looked at a LG 3D tv demo. That had passive glasses. A lot of pop on that tv.

I am hoping it is either the movie or maybe I have to trweak my settings some? I gave it a "B" for the effects.

I watched the same movie last night and thought it was really good . I was avoiding watching it after reading your comment actually . It had really great pop to the picture, unlike the latest Spiderman
which I find a little too dark. Maybe it was the adjustments I made prior to viewing not sure. Granted it was in the 2.35:1 format and I loose a lot of brightness on my CIH screen watching 3D in this format.
Normally most 3D is 16:9 and I don't loose any brightness having to spill the black bars off the screen. 16:9 ratio on my CIH screen is 95 inches diagonal, so a little less surface area to fill. Nevertheless
it was really good, the other 6 people really enjoyed the movie as well.
post #2757 of 3345
Heya, today i was checking the projector and i noticed some dust particles inside of the lens... only visible when it's on..
Here is a pic: (not actually from this pj, but looks the same)


Screen is perfect, but this got me worring, as it's pretty new, with only around 200 hours.

I cant really remember if they were already there... could it be from the manufacter process? i thought it was sealed...
post #2758 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by leila80 View Post

Heya, today i was checking the projector and i noticed some dust particles inside of the lens... only visible when it's on..
Here is a pic: (not actually from this pj, but looks the same)


Screen is perfect, but this got me worring, as it's pretty new, with only around 200 hours.

I cant really remember if they were already there... could it be from the manufacter process? i thought it was sealed...

This so funny, I just logged on to post the same thing biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
I tried cleaning the surface with an air blast and realized soon enough the dust was inside. Mine looks worst than yours but then again could be the same, hard to tell from the picture you posted.
I only have 75 hours on mine but to be honest I noticed this really soon after installation.

I'm going to search the net, Sony site and if I can find the manual have a look there too. I'm blaming my problem on excessive dust in my home post renovation process. I am running a air purifier
with HEPA filtration around the clock though.
post #2759 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by roxiedog13 View Post

This so funny, I just logged on to post the same thing biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
I tried cleaning the surface with an air blast and realized soon enough the dust was inside. Mine looks worst than yours but then again could be the same, hard to tell from the picture you posted.
I only have 75 hours on mine but to be honest I noticed this really soon after installation.

I'm going to search the net, Sony site and if I can find the manual have a look there too. I'm blaming my problem on excessive dust in my home post renovation process. I am running a air purifier
with HEPA filtration around the clock though.

I just spoke with a dealer who claims that dust inside the lens on these projectors is normal. Unless you can see it on the screen when you focus in and out then it is not affecting the PQ. Only DLP
projectors have a sealed chamber ....apparently .
post #2760 of 3345
Good to know... so far screen is perfect, at least i cant see any defect...

Though I wonder if with time it can accumulate more and become a problem...
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