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Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 106

post #3151 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdoherty972 View Post

Maybe a better way to ask this question is, has anyone's ES50 popped the original bulb yet, and if so at what number of hours?

I've learned after a decade lurking around this forum, that asking anyone on the internet "when their stuff broke?" is like tossing a bag of breadcrumbs into a flock of pigeons in the park......don't do it.

Everyone who's lamp failed will chime in, and everyone who's lamp hasn't isn't really reading this thread so your results back are always going to skew towards the failures.
post #3152 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadRusch View Post

I've learned after a decade lurking around this forum, that asking anyone on the internet "when their stuff broke?" is like tossing a bag of breadcrumbs into a flock of pigeons in the park......don't do it.

Everyone who's lamp failed will chime in, and everyone who's lamp hasn't isn't really reading this thread so your results back are always going to skew towards the failures.

Fair enough, but I'm AFTER failures. Just trying to get an idea of average life expectancy, I see on review sites the bulbs are supposed to be good for about 3000 hours - just trying to see if that gibes with reality.
post #3153 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Done Deal DR View Post

I think I got mine several months sooner, I've got over 1200 on mine with probably half of that in high mode. I don't use it sparingly at all! biggrin.gif

How many hours are people getting out of their HW50 bulbs? Mine is still adequately bright on low mode on my 16:9 159", but I do have a Da-Lite HP 2.4 (thanks Craig at AVS!) so I'm sure that helps quite a bit. So far no bulb flickering or any other apparent issues.



750 and counting on a 16:9 133", all in high mode did not know how to switch to low mode until a week ago (don't like low mode anyway). What a heck if I get a 2500 on it cool, I got the extra bulb waiting for its turn anyway smile.gif.
post #3154 of 3345
Like car tires, a lot of this is in the user realm for failure: "Why did my 50,000 mile tires wear out after 1 year, these things are crap! I only got 20 burnouts out of them!!" etc.

You'll get numbers thrown at you here, but they aren't going to mean anything....you can't get an average out of a tiny group of responders when 3/4 of the readers of this thread are either new owners, or disgruntled owners who have had a problem and want to see if others have had it too.....its sort of a skewed sampling smile.gif

I don't believe the 50 is known for having an excessively high failure rate in any of its components, maybe someone from AV Science will chime in about their rate of returns or defects that required them to send stock back to Sony.....there seems to be some complaints in this thread about losing brightness or developing a flicker. I had some brief flicker in low-lamp mode on mine, but I was using a PC as my source. When I changed the signal from 1080p/60 to 1080p/59hz....the flicker went away. My lamp is at 350h, give or take, and its a refurb. I have a replacement lamp in the closet.

Sony publishes 3000h average (is that in normal or high lamp mode, I don't know)....and projector companies usually do their averages, last time I checked anyways, by setting up projectors and bulbs, turning them on and timing them to failure..not turning them on/off, on/off which will absolutely increase the mean time between failures since sparking the bulb on/off is when lamps fail, same as incandescent bulbs in your lights at home. Turn on the switch, Pop......sometimes if you're lucky your light bulb will flicker and fade and then die, but most times its flicking the switch...popping the bulb. Same thing with a PJ.

So....if you want to get the most life out of your bulb, turn it on/off as little as possible, keep it well ventilated, clean it when its supposed to be clean, and hope mathematics and fate have your back smile.gif
post #3155 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdoherty972 View Post

Fair enough, but I'm AFTER failures. Just trying to get an idea of average life expectancy, I see on review sites the bulbs are supposed to be good for about 3000 hours - just trying to see if that gibes with reality.
Not really related to the 50, but my old HS20 bulb lasted about 2300 hours and I believe it was only rated for 2000. If the 50 bulb is rated for 3000, then you can probably expect close to that, +/- 5%.
post #3156 of 3345
"So....if you want to get the most life out of your bulb, turn it on/off as little as possible, keep it well ventilated, clean it when its supposed to be clean, and hope mathematics and fate have your back "

Perfect advise. When I sold pj's sony and others back in 07-10, we turned them on at 10am and off at about 8:30pm. Day after day. I was the one responsible to keep them looking good and serviced. We would sell a "demo" that had iirc, over 4000 hours occasionally.

Point being as stated by Head... The power cycles are the bulb killers along with dirty filters. I used to tell client that if they were going to watch a film or game, then perhaps have dinner or whatever, then return for another movie to just leave the pj running. Seems counter intuitive I know, but I almost never had to change a lamp.

Doug k
post #3157 of 3345
There was some discussion in here some time ago about using the panel alignment in the projector to get "better" convergence. I didn't really pay attention bc I didn't want to get too caught up in it so I wouldnt be disappointed if my PJ had poor convergence.

Well I finally checked and it did have the convergence off slightly so I used the panel alignment and it honestly looks sharper. It may just be my imagination but I feel like the image looks better overall.

My question was about how many increments consisted of a whole pixel? I remember some back and forth about that so if anyone remembers the discussion and could help I'd appreciate it.
post #3158 of 3345
I used to use very good binocs to "converge" analog pj's.

Since, as you well know from reading the om that you not only have the ability to shift entire colors and the ability to dial in specific areas, the Sony will provide you with wonderful "convergence".

Color uniformity from far upper left to far upper right may not be stellar. The good news is that only during a severe test pattern protocol would the anomoly ever be visable.

Watch a film.... You will most likely never even know it is there.

Cleaning up the convergence is time well spent imo although.

Doug k
post #3159 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by ltd76gold View Post

I used to use very good binocs to "converge" analog pj's.

Since, as you well know from reading the om that you not only have the ability to shift entire colors and the ability to dial in specific areas, the Sony will provide you with wonderful "convergence".

Color uniformity from far upper left to far upper right may not be stellar. The good news is that only during a severe test pattern protocol would the anomoly ever be visable.

Watch a film.... You will most likely never even know it is there.

Cleaning up the convergence is time well spent imo although.

Doug k

Thanks. Just watched a bit of the pro bowl and then a movie and the pj is definitely looking sharper. Maybe its just me but I feel the picture looks cleaner now. It felt like it was a tiny bit out of focus before but now the lines are sharp.
post #3160 of 3345
My new HT was just completed on Friday and I spent the weekend with my new 50ES (yes I’m late to the party but I got a great deal on the older technology).

All I can say is WOW WOW WOW!!!

Mine is mounted 120” from the screen which is an SI TRF110S with 1.3 gain. I spent the weekend with THE BIGGEST grin from ear to ear watching this combo. Granted, I’m a complete newbie to HT in general but the color/sharpness and brightness levels are simply incredible. I had LED hats installed in the theater and I can run them on full and still have amazing clarity on the screen. Obviously with them off the picture is simply stunning. This is also running the iris in partial and the lamp on low.
VERY happy with this combo and I’m already looking forward to football season next year. The Superbowl should look good based on what I saw of the pro-bowl last evening. Looking forward to the Olympics as well as spending weekends watching Blue Rays and catching up on all the movies I was too cheap to go see in theaters. 
post #3161 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by baloo_btru View Post

There was some discussion in here some time ago about using the panel alignment in the projector to get "better" convergence. I didn't really pay attention bc I didn't want to get too caught up in it so I wouldnt be disappointed if my PJ had poor convergence.

Well I finally checked and it did have the convergence off slightly so I used the panel alignment and it honestly looks sharper. It may just be my imagination but I feel like the image looks better overall.

My question was about how many increments consisted of a whole pixel? I remember some back and forth about that so if anyone remembers the discussion and could help I'd appreciate it.

 

Is this process of modifying the convergence on the HW50 detailed somewhere earlier in the thread?  I seem to recall it but... :confused:

post #3162 of 3345
Simply look for panel alignment in the menu and the om. The feature has a reset so any foul up can be easily rectified.

To keep it simple the red and blue grids can be adjusted en masse to the stable green grid. Then,upon close examination, if you see small descrepancies in a specific area, you can use the finer controls available.

Taking your time is a good idea.

Have fun,

Doug k
post #3163 of 3345
Does anyone have any issue with their HW50ES going into screensaver mode randomly?

I have a acer revo running xbmc hooked to a Onkyo receiver going into the sony. Every once in a while the projector will just go black and the screen saver starts up (little white dots start moving around).

I don't think it is an hdmi issue because I can hear sound and it only seems to happen on SD dvd rips. It doesn't seem happen when I play my 1080p content.

While it is in screen saver mode if I stop the player and go back to the xbmc menu, the display comes back.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
mlr
post #3164 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlrtime3 View Post

Does anyone have any issue with their HW50ES going into screensaver mode randomly?
I have a acer revo running xbmc hooked to a Onkyo receiver going into the sony. Every once in a while the projector will just go black and the screen saver starts up (little white dots start moving around).

This sounds like your Acer is running a version of windows with the StarField Simulation screen saver turned on......and after the allotted time expires where you haven't touched the mouse or keyboard in awhile
the screen saver kicks in.
post #3165 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeadRusch View Post

This sounds like your Acer is running a version of windows with the StarField Simulation screen saver turned on......and after the allotted time expires where you haven't touched the mouse or keyboard in awhile
the screen saver kicks in.

Upon further investigation it looks like this is actually the Onkyo screensaver, not the Sony.
post #3166 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlrtime3 View Post

Upon further investigation it looks like this is actually the Onkyo screensaver, not the Sony.

Onkyo Screensaver.......who knew! Glad you got it sorted.
post #3167 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by baloo_btru View Post

There was some discussion in here some time ago about using the panel alignment in the projector to get "better" convergence. I didn't really pay attention bc I didn't want to get too caught up in it so I wouldnt be disappointed if my PJ had poor convergence.

Well I finally checked and it did have the convergence off slightly so I used the panel alignment and it honestly looks sharper. It may just be my imagination but I feel like the image looks better overall.

My question was about how many increments consisted of a whole pixel? I remember some back and forth about that so if anyone remembers the discussion and could help I'd appreciate it.

10 Increments make a whole pixel and I'm pretty sure that is mentioned in the Owners Manual. This is vital to know because then +7 has the same effect as -3 etc.

There's some debate as to the benefits of using panel alignment. Yes it will eliminate color fringing in most normal imaging and it can have a dramatic effect on how the internal menus look. However, it does reduce resolution in the affected color. This effect is more subtle but it can clearly be seen as introducing spurious color into1080P resolution patterns that consist of alternating black and white lines of a single pixel in width.

Personally, I recommend the following:

1. Adjust the panel alignment from up close to the screen to get as good a convergence as possible just using the whole panel adjustments (no zones)
2. Change +/- adjustments so that no adjustment has an absolute value greater than 5 (i.e if you have +8, change it to -2 and vice versa)
3. Watch for a few days/weeks with regular program material (not test patters)
4. Return to your adjustments and take two intervals of correction away to bring it closer to zero alignment adjustment (e.g if you have +5, change it to +3; if you have -4 change it to -2).
5. Don't stress about how it looks right up to the screen but instead watch a few more days/weeks with regular programing.
6. If the fringing really bothers you, return to the adjustment values from step 2, but otherwise leave things as they are.

My testings with 1080P test patterns, show that the "color shifts" that the panel alignment introduces is negligible at adjustments below 2 in value and almost completely imperceptible at a value of 1. As such, one should really use values greater than +2 or less than -2, ONLY if the color fringing is still really driving you mad with regular material when you constrain your adjustments within these limits (-2 to +2).

Otherwise, I think you can get the best of both worlds by limiting your adjustment between -2 and +2.
post #3168 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktoolsie View Post

10 Increments make a whole pixel and I'm pretty sure that is mentioned in the Owners Manual. This is vital to know because then +7 has the same effect as -3 etc.

There's some debate as to the benefits of using panel alignment. Yes it will eliminate color fringing in most normal imaging and it can have a dramatic effect on how the internal menus look. However, it does reduce resolution in the affected color. This effect is more subtle but it can clearly be seen as introducing spurious color into1080P resolution patterns that consist of alternating black and white lines of a single pixel in width.

Personally, I recommend the following:

1. Adjust the panel alignment from up close to the screen to get as good a convergence as possible just using the whole panel adjustments (no zones)
2. Change +/- adjustments so that no adjustment has an absolute value greater than 5 (i.e if you have +8, change it to -2 and vice versa)
3. Watch for a few days/weeks with regular program material (not test patters)
4. Return to your adjustments and take two intervals of correction away to bring it closer to zero alignment adjustment (e.g if you have +5, change it to +3; if you have -4 change it to -2).
5. Don't stress about how it looks right up to the screen but instead watch a few more days/weeks with regular programing.
6. If the fringing really bothers you, return to the adjustment values from step 2, but otherwise leave things as they are.

My testings with 1080P test patterns, show that the "color shifts" that the panel alignment introduces is negligible at adjustments below 2 in value and almost completely imperceptible at a value of 1. As such, one should really use values greater than +2 or less than -2, ONLY if the color fringing is still really driving you mad with regular material when you constrain your adjustments within these limits (-2 to +2).

Otherwise, I think you can get the best of both worlds by limiting your adjustment between -2 and +2.

Thanks so much!

Very helpful and I will definitely mess with it and take your advice. It may be in my head but the projector seemed sharper after making the adjustments. The image just looked less "soft."

I appreciate the info.
post #3169 of 3345
We may be getting some more B-stocks. smile.gif
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post #3170 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

We may be getting some more B-stocks. smile.gif

Been lurking on the forums for quite a while now but In general how much lower are B-stock prices below MSRP or Street. I'm really struggling right now jumping ship to a projector for the first time and trying to realize the true difference between say a BenQ/Epson entry level projector to a lower level JVC/Sony. All relative to the wife approval factor in the end but just getting my ducks in a row.

Thanks!
Edited by Husker41082 - 2/4/14 at 8:19pm
post #3171 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Husker41082 View Post

Been lurking on the forums for quite a while now but In general how much lower are B-stock prices below MSRP or Street. I'm really struggling right now jumping ship to a projector for the first time and trying to realize the true difference between say a BenQ/Epson entry level projector to a lower level JVC/Sony. All relative to the wife approval factor in the end but just getting my ducks in a row.

Thanks!

Pretty big savings when going with a B-stock.
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post #3172 of 3345
I really am tempted to get one of the B stock HW-50ES. Seems like a tremendous value deal. Question is: Is it a significant upgrade from my JVC RS-20?
post #3173 of 3345
Well, much thanks to Mike Garrett at AVS. I am picking up my very own B stock Sony HW50ES. Oh happy day!
post #3174 of 3345
Have a Harmony and need the discrete power codes:
Set up the VPL-VW100 as a second projector, it has the power codes for separate on/off.
Use that 'device' to copy the codes to another programmable remote.
Copy them back to the harmony remote.
Delete the VPL-VW100.
post #3175 of 3345
Oh..the B-stock is an AMAZING price! By amazing...my wife said do it now! (she knew the AVS price on the 55ES).
post #3176 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trepidati0n View Post

Oh..the B-stock is an AMAZING price! By amazing...my wife said do it now! (she knew the AVS price on the 55ES).

Did you get the glasses and the extra bulb as well?

post #3177 of 3345
Hi

I have some jerky motion on my screen - and even on low motion scenes. It is as if the picture starts and stops rapidly - would be the best way to describe it, but occurs at a rate that makes the scene jerky.

My connections - Comcast x1 cable box To Oppo BD 105 (HDMI) to Projector. The Oppo serves as the direct line to the projector.

I have had the projector about 2 months now and this has been relatively recent. (it is a b-stock new one). I know there is a flicker discussion and do not know if this is the same as flicker. I am running the lamp in high mode.
Edited by ChadhaT - 2/8/14 at 1:31pm
post #3178 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChadhaT View Post

Hi

I have some jerky motion on my screen - and even on low motion scenes. It is as if the picture starts and stops rapidly - would be the best way to describe it, but occurs at a rate that makes the scene jerky.

 

What happens if you turn off reality creation and motion flow?

post #3179 of 3345
Looks like turning off Motion Flow did the trick. Thanks NC.
Edited by ChadhaT - 2/9/14 at 8:02am
post #3180 of 3345
So, with three panels, that means no RBE, and the uniformity of DLP..... I'm hoping. I will be using a panamorphic lens for a CIH system and an AT screen 100"X42"

My mitsubishi had horrible RBE
Edited by kgveteran - 2/10/14 at 5:59am
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