AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 14

post #391 of 1897
Looking through the HW50 manual, I could not find any reference to those iris setting you mention.
post #392 of 1897
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

I reviewed the user manual,and have a few important questions:

1) Is there only ONE custom user preset memory to store a custom image preset? If I understand correctly, one can modify any of the existing factory image presets (CINEMA 1 etc) and replace those specific memory settings (losing the original default settings). And then there is a single USER preset that one can additionally toy with. Correct? Im used to having 6 locked factory presets, and 6 user presets! frown.gif

2) If I am modifying a factory image preset (CINEMA 1), and change contrast by 5 steps and exit the menu, Is this going to automatically 'save' the change permanently on that preset, or do I have to specifically go through a set of menus to 'save' and override the prior setting into that memory slot? I prefer the later, so one can test settings momentarily (or for a specific movie) without having to track down what was changed to revert it. (Note: I don't mean revert to default, I want to revert to PRIOR (last saved) setting configuration.

My experience has been that whatever modifications are made to image preset modes like Cinema 1 remain in place each time you exit the menu.

Only one User preset as far as I know. Though a PITA I guess you could modify each of the factory presets to achieve your goal.
post #393 of 1897
Is the throw distance the same as the HW30? Would I be able to project a 110" 16:9 image with the projector mounted 11 feet away?
post #394 of 1897
I believe the throw ratio numbers are the same. I am going by memory but if you go into the right place in the menu you can turn the DI on or off. When its off you are on manual and by arrowing over you get a slider for the iris opening. I don't have a 50 to play with but that's the way it is on my 1000ES.when the iris is on there are several settings to choose how aggressive the DI is. Wish we had such as setting for the people posting. smile.gif
Edited by mark haflich - 11/1/12 at 5:35pm
post #395 of 1897
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

Looking through the HW50 manual, I could not find any reference to those iris setting you mention.

They're not in the menus for the 30 or the 95 either. They're only available in "Service Mode" (enter at your own risk). This is how it works on the 30 and the 95:

- Press Enter-Enter-Left-Enter on your remote, and it will ask if you want to enter service mode. Answer "Yes", and you're in.
- Press "Menu" , and you can now scroll all the way down past the bottom of the list to the bottom of the menu bar where it says "Device". When you highlight "Device", you'll see a bunch more menu options.
- In that menu, select "Other".
- You'll see item 01 - "Iris/Adjust". It's set to "0". Leave it there. Use the "down" button to move to the second menu choice.
- Item 02 is "Iris/Open Reg". Use your left and right buttons to set the value you like. I'd recommend starting by going down between 50-75 from the stock value (stock is normally around 620-670, but this number is different on each machine). RECORD YOUR STOCK VALUE so you can go back to that setting if you like.
- Once you've set your "Iris/Open Reg" value, press the "down" button to go to "Iris/Close Reg", and again lower by 50-75 or so to start. The stock value for this one is probably around 350 somewhere. As per the last one, record your stock value first.
- When you're done, press enter, and you're back to the "Device" menu. The last menu item within the "Device" menu lets you save your settings if you like. If you don't, they will be reset on your next power-up.

Don't play with any of the other settings. Once you crank those down by maybe 50-75 to start, do some testing and see what you think.

My 95 is currently running with Iris/Open Reg at 550 and Iris/Close Reg at 225, down from stock values of about 640 and 340 (can't find my old settings sheet....).
post #396 of 1897
those are settings for the various DI modes. when the DI is off and manual iris is selected in the user menu, the iris can be set between largest and smallest. that's the way it is in my 1000ES and from memorary that's what was in the 30 and the 95. Of course I could be wrong.
post #397 of 1897
Yeah....I don't think we're "supposed" to get into the service menu, although all us tweaker do anyways. There's even a way to adjust the white balance of specific points on the screen if a uniformity issue arises. I just wish there was a way to adjust the overall gamma/brightness/white balance of a given IRE verses all those 'points' they give. Granted, it's very flexible, but very cumbersome.
post #398 of 1897
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbaseuser View Post

Yeah....I don't think we're "supposed" to get into the service menu, although all us tweaker do anyways. There's even a way to adjust the white balance of specific points on the screen if a uniformity issue arises. I just wish there was a way to adjust the overall gamma/brightness/white balance of a given IRE verses all those 'points' they give. Granted, it's very flexible, but very cumbersome.

I don't know the 50, but I would investigate if Sony's ImageDirector software works with this model for tweaking gamma curves. With the 95, you can create custom gamma curves that are amazingly accurate. The flexibility of this software almost makes up for the fact that it's several generations old and only works via serial connection. I wrote a how-to in either the 95 or the 30 thread for how to get this software to do what you want it to do.
post #399 of 1897
According to the hw50 manual, image director is fully supported.
post #400 of 1897
FINALLY......I am a member of the projector owner community and the HW50 is my first projector. I appreciate all of the posters here. I've realized that I am on the short end of the learning curve at this point. I can only hope that I've made a sound choice in selecting this projector. (Kudos to AVS for the purchase experience....great work).

Of course, I have a novice question, so forgive me in advance. My question is around compatible 3d glasses. The Sony's glasses are sooo pricey and uncomfortable. I've read on the Xand 103s and Monster 3D glasses being used with this projector. My questions are:

1. Is there a particular brand that works better with the Sonys than another?
2. is there pair that works "out of the box" or have a "less manual" setup.
3. Do I lose 3D video by going outside of Sony?

I need some options....I believe 3D will be in high demand over the holidays.

Thanks,
Mike
post #401 of 1897
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

those are settings for the various DI modes. when the DI is off and manual iris is selected in the user menu, the iris can be set between largest and smallest. that's the way it is in my 1000ES and from memorary that's what was in the 30 and the 95. Of course I could be wrong.

That's correct. On the HW50, when the DI is off, you can manually set the iris anywhere between 0 & 100, in 1 step increments.
post #402 of 1897
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

I reviewed the user manual,and have a few important questions:
1) Is there only ONE custom user preset memory to store a custom image preset? If I understand correctly, one can modify any of the existing factory image presets (CINEMA 1 etc) and replace those specific memory settings (losing the original default settings). And then there is a single USER preset that one can additionally toy with. Correct? Im used to having 6 locked factory presets, and 6 user presets! frown.gif
2) If I am modifying a factory image preset (CINEMA 1), and change contrast by 5 steps and exit the menu, Is this going to automatically 'save' the change permanently on that preset, or do I have to specifically go through a set of menus to 'save' and override the prior setting into that memory slot? I prefer the later, so one can test settings momentarily (or for a specific movie) without having to track down what was changed to revert it. (Note: I don't mean revert to default, I want to revert to PRIOR (last saved) setting configuration.
3) Manual has typical disclaimer on 'dead pixels'. Are people getting users with any dead pixels at all on these units? For 4 grand, one dead pixel is enough for me to return it!!!
4) Is the firmware user upgradeable ?

1) Yes there is only one user preset. But as you already found out you can customize all of the named presets like Film 1 etc. as you like. I prefer this over just having different settings named User1, User2 and so on. And all of the presets are doubled in 3D. You can make different settings for e.g. Film1 for 2D and Film1 for 3D. HW50 remembers for which input signal which preset has been set and recalls ist once the same input signal is on.

2) Yes, if you make a change in a preset it is automatically saved. Theres no save button. That's a bit of a disadvantage you're right. Btw with JVC projectors its the same.
You can always reset the whole preset to the factory settings and you can reset each item separately with the reset button on the remote. The HW50 also has a Settings Lock to prevent changing settings by accident once you've found your perfect settings.

3) No good dealer will sell you a unit with any dead or hot pixels. I myself check my projectors that I buy at my dealers shop for dead/hot pixels, shading and convergence and some other things, before buying it.

4) That's a good question. I hope so but I don't know. Maybe a user of HW30/VW95 could say something about this point?
post #403 of 1897
That's a small disappointment, thanks for the answers. If settings/changes are saved automatically, that is going to be a huge headache for me. I normally find myself tweaking at least one 'control' of any given settings while watching a movie (Sharpness, contrast, or brightness or whatever), and love that when I switch my PJ off, and back ON, the original settings are restored. It really is a big disadvantage to not have this, because I can see myself having to write down every setting (after calibrating) and remembering to go back and reset to calibrated values every so often.

Oh well. I think the Panasonics at least force you to have to save/overwrite to make the change permanent. My Sanyo certainly does.
post #404 of 1897
If you've properly calibrated your display there shouldn't need to be any 'tweaking' while watching a film especially over such major controls as the brightness and contrast: You are either clipping black/white or not once set correctly, so if you change according to disc content, then you're possibly just crushing blacks/whites just because you think the image should look different to what it does when calibrated. Ergo I think it's a non issue. smile.gif

EDIT: I certainly wouldn't use it as an excuse to buy a Panasonic, IMHO there are better projectors out there for the money (or less) these days.
post #405 of 1897
Yes I agree with Kelvin1965S. Especially contrast and brightness you only set once with a test disc, and then never change.

I for my part HATE tweakint around any settings while watching movies. I want to go with one setting or a few presets that I don't change anymore.

You even have direct +/- keys for brightness, contrast and sharpness on the Sony remote and I think this is nonsense, especially for contrast and brightness.


As I said I had a preproduction unit for testing and now I published a long review, compared to a JVC X30.
You find my (very) long review here: http://www.hifi-forum.de/index.php?action=browseT&back=1&sort=lpost&forum_id=94&thread=12413

It's in german so you have to use an online translator. I could translate it in english but that would take me another week or so and nobody pays me for this....

If you have questions ask here.
post #406 of 1897
All good points. To be honest I used Brightness/Contrast only as an example, but I hardly ever mess with those myself. Other settings such as noise reduction for example I do find turning on/off depending on content (Satellite/TV especially), and sometimes even Gamma. I think TV source is so variable that I find myself changing settings to meet my needs, occasionally. Bluray is another story, I never touch my HDMI Bluray settings.... fully calibrated once, never touch again.

The fact that the Sony has Brightness/Contrast on the remote makes things even worse. If my kid, or I myself press this in the dark by mistake (yes, it will happen for sure) then the calibrated settings are now changed without me knowing this... I think this is poor design. However since there is a LOCK feature I think this can be avoided. At least I hope it locks the settings from ever being changed through the remote Brightness/Contrast buttons directly!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

If you've properly calibrated your display there shouldn't need to be any 'tweaking' while watching a film especially over such major controls as the brightness and contrast: You are either clipping black/white or not once set correctly, so if you change according to disc content, then you're possibly just crushing blacks/whites just because you think the image should look different to what it does when calibrated. Ergo I think it's a non issue. smile.gif
EDIT: I certainly wouldn't use it as an excuse to buy a Panasonic, IMHO there are better projectors out there for the money (or less) these days.
post #407 of 1897
Haven't checked the settings lock myself, but you can find it in the manual, p. 61/62: http://www.docs.sony.com/release/VPLHW50ES.pdf
It says it clears the display of several menu items. So I suppose they won't be displayed any more. but then you won't be able to make any chances to the Reality Creation, NR and so on also.
So the best thing would be to have different presets with different RC settings for different materials.

one thing that can't be saved with the presets in the picture menu is the setting of the RCP color management. And THAT I think is really poor design...
post #408 of 1897
I watched a couple of movies this weekend with the HW50 and am more impressed now than after my initial viewing. Unlike the JVC, the projector does not lose much brightness as it is changed from Max zoom to Min zoom. I ceiling mounted the Sony towards the back of the theater (something that I could not do with the RS1 since I would lose too much light output). At this position, the fan in high lamp mode is virtually inaudible - very nice. Contrast is very good on the Sony - better than the JVC in medium to high APL scenes. Presumably this is due to the ANSI contrast of the Sony. On very low APL scenes the JVC sometimes achieves a lower black level but this is partly due to its much lower light output, and not for scenes which are very dark for more than a few seconds. On extended low APL scenes the Sony has a lower black level than the RS1 due to its dynamic iris. This is evident by looking at the top and bottom bars of a 2.35 movie on my 1.78 screen. Shadow detail is MUCH better on the Sony than the RS1. I am not using RC. I find that RC even in its minimum setting adds significant noise to the picture which is evident in scenes where large parts of the screen have a uniform colour (i.e. blue sky). When there is detail throughout an entire scene, this video noise is not as evident, and RC offers a nice boost in apparent sharpness. The thing is, I am not going to sit there and constantly turn RC on or off depending on the scene, and therefore, I am leaving it off for now. I am undecided on my favorite gamma setting. I like 2.4 on very dark scenes, but 2.2 for everything else. For now, I have it set for 2.2.

Now that I have the Sony properly set up, I have had a chance to better assess its uniformity and sharpness. I noted brightened corners in my initial observations. This was with the projector setup almost as close to the screen as possible. WIth the Sony ceiling mounted near the back of the theater, the uniformity is better and the brighter corners are much reduced. Also sharpness with RC off seems pretty good across the entire screen and is at least as good as the RS1. I suspect that positioning the Sony close to Min zoom means that the center part of the lens is being used where the tolerances are higher.

Overall a very nice projector. Now who wants a perfect condition RS1 with two lamps at a good price?
post #409 of 1897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post

I watched a couple of movies this weekend with the HW50 and am more impressed now than after my initial viewing. Unlike the JVC, the projector does not lose much brightness as it is changed from Max zoom to Min zoom. I ceiling mounted the Sony towards the back of the theater (something that I could not do with the RS1 since I would lose too much light output). At this position, the fan in high lamp mode is virtually inaudible - very nice. Contrast is very good on the Sony - better than the JVC in medium to high APL scenes. Presumably this is due to the ANSI contrast of the Sony. On very low APL scenes the JVC sometimes achieves a lower black level but this is partly due to its much lower light output, and not for scenes which are very dark for more than a few seconds. On extended low APL scenes the Sony has a lower black level than the RS1 due to its dynamic iris. This is evident by looking at the top and bottom bars of a 2.35 movie on my 1.78 screen. Shadow detail is MUCH better on the Sony than the RS1. I am not using RC. I find that RC even in its minimum setting adds significant noise to the picture which is evident in scenes where large parts of the screen have a uniform colour (i.e. blue sky). When there is detail throughout an entire scene, this video noise is not as evident, and RC offers a nice boost in apparent sharpness. The thing is, I am not going to sit there and constantly turn RC on or off depending on the scene, and therefore, I am leaving it off for now. I am undecided on my favorite gamma setting. I like 2.4 on very dark scenes, but 2.2 for everything else. For now, I have it set for 2.2.
Now that I have the Sony properly set up, I have had a chance to better assess its uniformity and sharpness. I noted brightened corners in my initial observations. This was with the projector setup almost as close to the screen as possible. WIth the Sony ceiling mounted near the back of the theater, the uniformity is better and the brighter corners are much reduced. Also sharpness with RC off seems pretty good across the entire screen and is at least as good as the RS1. I suspect that positioning the Sony close to Min zoom means that the center part of the lens is being used where the tolerances are higher.
Overall a very nice projector. Now who wants a perfect condition RS1 with two lamps at a good price?

Good report back on your new projector. You feel it is that much better than your 6 year old JVC?
post #410 of 1897
The RS1 is still a good projector. It has given me 0 problems, it still has better contrast than most other projectors, and it has good brightness. The HW50ES, however, is noticeably brighter (an important consideration for me), very quiet (some people really don't care about this), has more accurate colours out of the box (the RS1 can be calibrated with an external colour processor), and has better shadow detail. The Sony also has 3D. The RS1 may have a slightly smoother looking image. For my priorities I am happy with my decision to purchase the Sony. Older model JVCs are good projectors, and I think better than most/all of the newer LCD projectors.
post #411 of 1897
On the buzzing issue, does anyone have an educated guess on how long it will take corrected units to hit retail shelves -- I would guess several weeks, at least. Even more helpful:D would be to know whether there was any Serial Number bracketing information that numbers XXXX and onward should be okay, and/or a build date after which any unit should be free of the issue (if build date is available to consumers on this unit). Thanks in advance.
post #412 of 1897
I want to know this to. Not buying mine until buzzing is GONE.
post #413 of 1897
Quote:
Originally Posted by mogrub View Post

On the buzzing issue, does anyone have an educated guess on how long it will take corrected units to hit retail shelves -- I would guess several weeks, at least. Even more helpful:D would be to know whether there was any Serial Number bracketing information that numbers XXXX and onward should be okay, and/or a build date after which any unit should be free of the issue (if build date is available to consumers on this unit). Thanks in advance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

I want to know this to. Not buying mine until buzzing is GONE.

Once I hear back from Sony with this answer, I will post the info.
Reply
Reply
post #414 of 1897
I appreciate that. There are $4 grand waiting for a response here!
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Once I hear back from Sony with this answer, I will post the info.
post #415 of 1897
Those that want a machine that does not buzz are going to need to wait a little bit. Sony does not have a guaranteed batch of non buzzing projectors to choose from. So sending in for exchange right now does not mean your replacement would not have the same problem.
Reply
Reply
post #416 of 1897
Thank you sir. If you manage to find out whether the wait is week or months, please post back.
post #417 of 1897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post

I watched a couple of movies this weekend with the HW50 and am more impressed now than after my initial viewing. Unlike the JVC, the projector does not lose much brightness as it is changed from Max zoom to Min zoom. I ceiling mounted the Sony towards the back of the theater (something that I could not do with the RS1 since I would lose too much light output). At this position, the fan in high lamp mode is virtually inaudible - very nice. Contrast is very good on the Sony - better than the JVC in medium to high APL scenes. Presumably this is due to the ANSI contrast of the Sony. On very low APL scenes the JVC sometimes achieves a lower black level but this is partly due to its much lower light output, and not for scenes which are very dark for more than a few seconds. On extended low APL scenes the Sony has a lower black level than the RS1 due to its dynamic iris. This is evident by looking at the top and bottom bars of a 2.35 movie on my 1.78 screen. Shadow detail is MUCH better on the Sony than the RS1. I am not using RC. I find that RC even in its minimum setting adds significant noise to the picture which is evident in scenes where large parts of the screen have a uniform colour (i.e. blue sky). When there is detail throughout an entire scene, this video noise is not as evident, and RC offers a nice boost in apparent sharpness. The thing is, I am not going to sit there and constantly turn RC on or off depending on the scene, and therefore, I am leaving it off for now. I am undecided on my favorite gamma setting. I like 2.4 on very dark scenes, but 2.2 for everything else. For now, I have it set for 2.2.
Now that I have the Sony properly set up, I have had a chance to better assess its uniformity and sharpness. I noted brightened corners in my initial observations. This was with the projector setup almost as close to the screen as possible. WIth the Sony ceiling mounted near the back of the theater, the uniformity is better and the brighter corners are much reduced. Also sharpness with RC off seems pretty good across the entire screen and is at least as good as the RS1. I suspect that positioning the Sony close to Min zoom means that the center part of the lens is being used where the tolerances are higher.
Overall a very nice projector. Now who wants a perfect condition RS1 with two lamps at a good price?

The higher the zoom ratio is, it is 2 on the JVC, the higher the light loss will be going from short to long. The Sony zoom ratio is around is around 1.5. The effective F stops ar both the long and short ends of the two lenses of course enters into it.
post #418 of 1897
I see it as a benefit to be able to place the Sony further back in my HT with little loss in light as compared to the JVC. The further distance of the projector from the first row of seating coupled with a much lower fan noise than the JVC makes the Sony virtually inaudible even in high lamp mode. Nice.
post #419 of 1897
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post

I see it as a benefit to be able to place the Sony further back in my HT with little loss in light as compared to the JVC. The further distance of the projector from the first row of seating coupled with a much lower fan noise than the JVC makes the Sony virtually inaudible even in high lamp mode. Nice.

Minus the ridiculous buzzing :-P

I actually run it in low lamp + high fan mode b/c it's so quiet to begin with I can get away with it. Would have these things running cooler rather than hotter.

Though the funny thing with that is I actually want the projector to heat up fast when I first turn it on, as it takes an hour for focus drift to settle (I've measured this with highly zoomed in shots of a test pattern).
post #420 of 1897
I never noticed focus drift and I have no intentions on looking for it:) My HW50ES has pretty good focus across the entire screen now that I have it set up close to minimum Zoom.

Is there any reason why I should have a preference for a gamma setting of 2.4 over 2.2 in a dark HT with about 15 FL on the screen?

I am going to have to try RC with NR set to Low to see if that reduces the video noise to a level that I feel is acceptable. With NR Off I generally prefer the image without using RC because of the noise that I find it puts into many scenes.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread