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Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 23

post #661 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

when it's in 3D, change it to user mode again. It should be a separate user mode for 3D. The only thing you have to change is the color temp setting since it has to be different from the 2D mode.
Use 'custom 3' for 2D mode, it should be closest to D65 and possibly 'custom 2' or '4' for the 3D mode baseline. You have to run the 30 and 80 IRE patterns in 2D - > 3D mode with the meter behind the glasses for best results.
but if i cannot use custom3 in 3d (because i already use this in 2d) how can I get a good 6500K for 3d?? custom 2 and 4 are way off 6500K.......
post #662 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

when it's in 3D, change it to user mode again. It should be a separate user mode for 3D. The only thing you have to change is the color temp setting since it has to be different from the 2D mode.
Use 'custom 3' for 2D mode, it should be closest to D65 and possibly 'custom 2' or '4' for the 3D mode baseline. You have to run the 30 and 80 IRE patterns in 2D - > 3D mode with the meter behind the glasses for best results.

Are you saying that 'custom 3' is closer to D65 than the D65 setting itself? Thanks.
post #663 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

but if i cannot use custom3 in 3d (because i already use this in 2d) how can I get a good 6500K for 3d?? custom 2 and 4 are way off 6500K.......

Haven't done this yet but my take is that for 3d the preset is a much cooler temp like 8500. Through the glasses it warms up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

Are you saying that 'custom 3' is closer to D65 than the D65 setting itself? Thanks.

Believe User 3 is same as D65 and you use it as a starting point to calibrate and then save your own.
post #664 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjsbuyer View Post

Haven't done this yet but my take is that for 3d the preset is a much cooler temp like 8500. Through the glasses it warms up
Ok, so a good starting point for calibrating the 3D is to choose Custom2 (because that is cooler then Custom3 and Custom is already used for the 2D calibration)
post #665 of 3345
Does anyone who owns this projector use iRule and control this app? Or am I going to be the first one to try this out?
post #666 of 3345
Over in this review of the HW50ES:
http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/sony-vpl-hw50es-review-201212042380.htm?page=Picture%20Quality

... I'm surprised the author(s) finds Dark Frame Insertion (DFI) to be usable for 24p content. There's so much flicker when I enable it on 24p content that it's unwatchable. I believe others on these forums have reported similar. For 60p content, it's watchable. Or if you take the 24p & dow 3:2 pulldown & then use DFI, it's watchable. Which makes me wonder why they can't get it right for 24p content without flickering by doing some frame doubling/tripling, etc.

Anyone around here actually use DFI? I can't say I've noticed much difference with it on anyway, or maybe that's just b/c I'm so distracted by the flicker.

Incidentally, I do notice the sharpening (mentioned in the review) induced by DFI, which is weird.
post #667 of 3345
Am I correct that if I enable the MANUAL iris and put it on 1 (MIN) i will get the same (or even better in mixed scenes) black level as with the iris in Auto - Full or Auto - Limited at the cost of less bright level?
Reason I ask this is that I found out (after quite some reading) that the dynamic iris (both the Full and Limited ones) affects the grayscale and gamma a lot and if I enable the manual iris and set it on a fix value and calibrate from that point I keep the grayscale and gamma that I calibrated. Only thing I don t want to loose is black level. I m fine with losing bright level.
post #668 of 3345
I was in Singapore last weekend and had the chance to see the Sony 50ES in action... WOW! would not begin describe it! Definitely the BEST projector I have ever seen (for home theater), but that was on a 106 inch screen running on eco mode. It's like watching 4K, literally.

I wish they had like a 160-180 inch. That's the size I am thinking of getting and don't quite know if the projector can handle it without losing it's pop!!
post #669 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Am I correct that if I enable the MANUAL iris and put it on 1 (MIN) i will get the same (or even better in mixed scenes) black level as with the iris in Auto - Full or Auto - Limited at the cost of less bright level?
Reason I ask this is that I found out (after quite some reading) that the dynamic iris (both the Full and Limited ones) affects the grayscale and gamma a lot and if I enable the manual iris and set it on a fix value and calibrate from that point I keep the grayscale and gamma that I calibrated. Only thing I don t want to loose is black level. I m fine with losing bright level.

Not sure that Auto-Full actually ever clamps down the iris fully. Fat Dave a few posts back said:
Quote:
I'm running IrisOpenReg at 600 and IrisCloseReg at 175 right now (though I move things around), from stock settings of around 640 / 340 on my 95.

... sounds to me like the stock settings are not as aggressive at closing down the iris.

Everyone's setup will vary, but with my 110" High Contrast High Power screen, I'm quite happy with lamp LOW & iris at a manual setting of 20.
post #670 of 3345
Hello.

I ordered Sony HW50 because venture with Epson Tw9100 didn’t go well. Have two questions :

- I have universal celling mount from Vogels, can I use it with Sony HW50 ? It was OK for Epson and others PJ before, so question is, did sony have also standard holes for screws placing on the bottom ?
- How is 3D on Sony comparing it to Epson 5020, is it worse, dimmer or on par ?

Best regards,

Tozo
post #671 of 3345
I saw the HW50 this weekend and it didn't blow me away. The picture looks soft and not very HD. The colors were off as well. It was very bright in Cinema 1 mode though and the contrast and blacks are very good. Maybe it was not set up properly and RC wasn't on. I saw the VW95 at another store last year and that sucker blew me away !
post #672 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger View Post

I saw the HW50 this weekend and it didn't blow me away. The picture looks soft and not very HD. The colors were off as well. It was very bright in Cinema 1 mode though and the contrast and blacks are very good. Maybe it was not set up properly and RC wasn't on. I saw the VW95 at another store last year and that sucker blew me away !

I would suggest that the projector was not set up properly. Go into many stores and they have no ideal on how to set the units up.
post #673 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger View Post

I saw the HW50 this weekend and it didn't blow me away. The picture looks soft and not very HD. The colors were off as well. It was very bright in Cinema 1 mode though and the contrast and blacks are very good. Maybe it was not set up properly and RC wasn't on. I saw the VW95 at another store last year and that sucker blew me away !

If you said it's soft, RC was definitely not on. Once on, it'll blow you away, and it's no longer soft. It's crystal clear. You can see each pore on a person's face. Much like 4K. Not sure how they did that!
post #674 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger View Post

I saw the HW50 this weekend and it didn't blow me away. The picture looks soft and not very HD. The colors were off as well. It was very bright in Cinema 1 mode though and the contrast and blacks are very good. Maybe it was not set up properly and RC wasn't on. I saw the VW95 at another store last year and that sucker blew me away !

The 50 definitely does not appear soft with RC turned on. Get them to turn RC on and take a second look.
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post #675 of 3345
Anyone using the hw50 on a very large screen? 140"+? If so how close to you need to get to see pixels? I like sitting 1 screen width back (very close). Is this possible with the hw50 on a very big screen? I read one review that said screen door effect is basically zero on this projector, but sowk bought the jvc with e shift instead because his screen is so large and he sits so close.
post #676 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by tallnick View Post

Anyone using the hw50 on a very large screen? 140"+? If so how close to you need to get to see pixels? I like sitting 1 screen width back (very close). Is this possible with the hw50 on a very big screen? I read one review that said screen door effect is basically zero on this projector, but sowk bought the jvc with e shift instead because his screen is so large and he sits so close.

I have the HW50 & was projecting onto a 120" screen with a sitting distance of 1.15x screen width. So, pretty close to what you want. I'd say it's definitely watchable, given you engage RC & a Darbee. In fact, it's quite good with that combo, as long as you have a unit with decent focus uniformity (i.e. NOT this: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1436740/sony-vpl-hw50es-focus-nonuniformity).

I decided to go with a new 110" screen though (1.25x SW sitting distance), as my eyes were darting around too much with the 120" screen. I like looking around the screen... to a certain extent. At 1.25x SW, I'm still darting around every now and then, but not much. Which allows me to see the full composition. I found that with the 120" screen at that sitting distance, I didn't get a good sense of the composition of the image b/c it was too big. And since I'm a photographer, I like seeing (good) compositions.

At 110" 1.25x SW sitting distance, the image is spectacular. I think I hit the sweet spot for size vs. detail. It (obviously) looks sharper on the 110" screen; though I don't know if you should fault the projector or 1080p content for that.

I might consider the JVC with e-shift for your scenario. Certainly wouldn't be looking at the Panasonic (just subpar all-round compared to Sony) or Epson (SDE at your sitting distance). The Sony does put out a film-like image due to its SXRD inter-pixel spacing (better than DLP). The JVC probably has better focus uniformity too... though I finally got my Sony to have good focus uniformity by (1) getting it replaced & (2) adjusting focus with a monocular to find the best compromise where most of the image is in focus, just not the upper left & bottom right corners. YMMV.

Btw, Sony says the extra lamp comes through the dealer... so AVS should be placing the extra lamp orders for us. Any word on that, Mike?
post #677 of 3345
Thanks for the very helpful info. At 140" I'll be at 1.18 sw and at 150" I'll be at 1.1sw so I'm still undecided. The hw50 with RC and darbee sounds pretty sweet for the price though. I was all set on the BenQ w7000 but then found a direct importer who can give me a deal on the Sony so now I'm up in the air again. I'll see how the jvc reviews come back but I feel they may have trouble filling such a big screen with good brightness. Plus their 3D issues, etc. anyway, thanks for the help.
post #678 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Am I correct that if I enable the MANUAL iris and put it on 1 (MIN) i will get the same (or even better in mixed scenes) black level as with the iris in Auto - Full or Auto - Limited at the cost of less bright level?
Reason I ask this is that I found out (after quite some reading) that the dynamic iris (both the Full and Limited ones) affects the grayscale and gamma a lot and if I enable the manual iris and set it on a fix value and calibrate from that point I keep the grayscale and gamma that I calibrated. Only thing I don t want to loose is black level. I m fine with losing bright level.

What you read was inaccurate. Dynamic iris doesn't affect gamma at all, however you will not be able to accurately measure gamma with auto-iris on. Dynamic iris affects overall scene brightness only. Gamma remains exactly as if the iris was off.

Calibration and measurements must be done with the iris off (or locked).

edit - addendum

I didn't address what you mentioned about grayscale, but closing or opening the iris will not shift the colour balance either. It just lets out more or less light - the colour or composition is unchanged.
post #679 of 3345
Enabling Auto Iris affects Gamma and Grayscale. Especially the Gamma at high IREs will be apparently changed in your Sony PJs.
post #680 of 3345
The dynamic iris will adjust the gamma at the low end as well in order to help compensate for the darkening effect of closing the iris on the lighter parts of the image. It will try to use the maximum (native) contrast of the projector in a scene by actively turning up the contrast so that the brightest part of the image will remain as bright as it should be without the iris. It helps if the projector has a good native contrast to start with (as the Sony has) which will mean that the dynamic iris doesn't have to work so hard, so there are less side effects.
post #681 of 3345
Like Kelvin says, the dynamic iris affects both the grayscale AND gamma a lot. You can test this by putting up a 80ire pattern and measure with dynamic and manual iris (eg. with ChromaPure). Personally I want to avoid the dynamic iris so atm I m trying to figure out what the best settings are while still getting 48 cd/m2.
post #682 of 3345
Someone knows how to get imagedirector work on the HW50? I bought a usb => serial adapter but somehow it won t connect to my HW50..... I selected the right COM connection. Maybe I have to change some other settings in the RS232 settings in my hardware properties?
post #683 of 3345
I know of at least one guy who projected onto a 150 inch screen and said the picture was ok gor 2D... Anyone else used this projector on a bigger than 150 inch diagonal inch? How's the brightness/picture quality for 2D and 3D? I would like to go as large as is possible. ProjectorCentral only recommended at most 110 for 3d.
post #684 of 3345
Ability to project onto large screen (150") depends on several variables, such as calibrated lumens, you HT environment and personal brightness preference.

To give you an idea I will describe my situation, even though I am not using the HW50ES.

I am using JVC DLA-HD250pro projector, which has approximately 800 lumens calibrated output.
This compares with the HW50ES output of ~1,050 lumens in Cinema Film 1 mode or 775 in Cinema Film 2 mode. Cinema film 2 is comparable to my JVC.

I am using Elite Screens 150" Lunette 19x9 screen.
My home theater is completely light controlled (no windows) with dark walls, black ceiling and front wall. Thus there is minimal wall reflection.
Front row seating is ~9ft from screen and 2nd row ~16ft from screen.
My projector has about 650 hours on the lamp, running normal mode, with lens to screen distance of ~ 15'6". Iris is on 1 (minimum opening for max blacks)

In my environment and to my eyes (taste - movie theater) this projector has sufficient output for this screen for 2D (projector does not have 3D)
So far, I have not felt the need to open up the iris or run the projector in high lamp mode.
I have ordered JVC DLA-RS4810 to get e-shift and 3D. To my understanding, it has calibrated Cinema output of ~1,000 lumens, which is a 20% increase.
My only concern is output in 3D mode. However, as my taste is not a plasma like image, I am hoping it will be sufficient in 3D mode, to my liking.

Now, if your expectation is to have an image that looks like plasma TV at Best Buy (way too bright) then you may not be happy with the HW50ES Cinema Film 2 mode or even in Cinema Film 1 mode.
If your tastes and HT environment are comparable to mine, I would expect that you would be more than happy with the HW50ES on a 150" screen.

This screen size really makes for a theater like experience. Even the 2.35 image is equivalent to ~130" 2.35 screen.

Hope this helps
post #685 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dionyz View Post

Ability to project onto large screen (150") depends on several variables, such as calibrated lumens, you HT environment and personal brightness preference.
To give you an idea I will describe my situation, even though I am not using the HW50ES.
I am using JVC DLA-HD250pro projector, which has approximately 800 lumens calibrated output.
This compares with the HW50ES output of ~1,050 lumens in Cinema Film 1 mode or 775 in Cinema Film 2 mode. Cinema film 2 is comparable to my JVC.
I am using Elite Screens 150" Lunette 19x9 screen.
My home theater is completely light controlled (no windows) with dark walls, black ceiling and front wall. Thus there is minimal wall reflection.
Front row seating is ~9ft from screen and 2nd row ~16ft from screen.
My projector has about 650 hours on the lamp, running normal mode, with lens to screen distance of ~ 15'6". Iris is on 1 (minimum opening for max blacks)
In my environment and to my eyes (taste - movie theater) this projector has sufficient output for this screen for 2D (projector does not have 3D)
So far, I have not felt the need to open up the iris or run the projector in high lamp mode.
I have ordered JVC DLA-RS4810 to get e-shift and 3D. To my understanding, it has calibrated Cinema output of ~1,000 lumens, which is a 20% increase.
My only concern is output in 3D mode. However, as my taste is not a plasma like image, I am hoping it will be sufficient in 3D mode, to my liking.
Now, if your expectation is to have an image that looks like plasma TV at Best Buy (way too bright) then you may not be happy with the HW50ES Cinema Film 2 mode or even in Cinema Film 1 mode.
If your tastes and HT environment are comparable to mine, I would expect that you would be more than happy with the HW50ES on a 150" screen.
This screen size really makes for a theater like experience. Even the 2.35 image is equivalent to ~130" 2.35 screen.
Hope this helps

Definitely helps. I too will have a controlled light room and like the theater like images... What's your screen's gain. The one I am getting has i think a realistic of 1.0, although they publish it at 1.2 (people have tested it to actually only 1).

I am actually looking for many people's perspective on this. Since I don't live in the US, i'll have to buy thins based on 'well researched faith', without ever seeing them first hand.... so, the more people tells me it's good, the better it is for me.
post #686 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Definitely helps. I too will have a controlled light room and like the theater like images... What's your screen's gain. The one I am getting has i think a realistic of 1.0, although they publish it at 1.2 (people have tested it to actually only 1).
I am actually looking for many people's perspective on this. Since I don't live in the US, i'll have to buy thins based on 'well researched faith', without ever seeing them first hand.... so, the more people tells me it's good, the better it is for me.

My screen material is the CineWhite with rated gain of 1.1, which realistically is probably between 1.0 and 1.1
post #687 of 3345
Does anyone know where the zero vertical offset is for this projector or a way to calculate?
post #688 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Definitely helps. I too will have a controlled light room and like the theater like images... What's your screen's gain. The one I am getting has i think a realistic of 1.0, although they publish it at 1.2 (people have tested it to actually only 1).
I am actually looking for many people's perspective on this. Since I don't live in the US, i'll have to buy thins based on 'well researched faith', without ever seeing them first hand.... so, the more people tells me it's good, the better it is for me.

agreed, in new zealand there is literally zero places to try multiple projectors so this forum is my main source of information/help. I found the post very very helpful and have decided on a 150" 16:9 acoustic screen (1.16 gain) since I have a perfectly light controlled and blacked-out room. 3D might be a bit dim but with the sony glasses it should be watchable. I also found it helpful that someone sits ~9' from a 150" screen which is about the distance (1 screen width) that I like to sit at. awesome.
post #689 of 3345
Hi guys

Could I get some advice on 3D please? So far I've found crosstalk really distracting on several discs. Monsters vs Aliens is near unwatchable and Hugo caused loads of ghosting with the gendarme's hat. Also Puss In Boots had quite a bit. Avatar was much less afflicted but unless I turned the glasses to minimum brightness there was still a lot. The only disc that has been perfect really was Prometheus. Am I doing something fundamentally wrong? The issue is the same with both the supplied Sony glasses and the xpand 104. I tried the app with the xpand 104 but couldn't get any visible improvement. 2d is sensational on this thing so I'm really hoping I've just got a setting wrong? Anyone had a similar experience?

Thanks.
post #690 of 3345
Could someone remind me how to get into the service menu of the HW50? There should be a sticky thread for Service Menu access :-P
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