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Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 26

post #751 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by dupin67 View Post

Got a Colormunki Display to calibrate my HW50 last week.
Everything is nice but....
Measured 3D brightness is LOW!!!
2D with lamp @ low, I got 15+ fL which is nice and proper (between 12~16 fL).
100 inch 1.0 gain white screen. Close to max wide angle.
3D User mode with Gamma correction = Cumstom 5 (prioritize brightness according to Sony), Color Temp = 9 (more brightness according to Sony).
Glasses Brightness setting is 3 (the second brightest).
Without the Glasses (I used PS3 glasses and the Sony Glasses is about the same), measured 30+ fL.
With the Glasses, before calibration there is 3.0+ fL. After caliabration there is ~2.7 fL.
Before the meaurement, I was (and still am) satisfied with the 3D brightess. I think it's brighter than local cinema.
Now I know it's far from 4.5fL, the suggested brightness for 3D, so just cannot help imagining how nice it would be if I could have 4.5fL....
Changing the screen is not an option because the new screen is a huge investment along with the HW50. It's a very good improvment for 2D compared to my previous cheap grey screen.
Scratching my head... Ignorance is indeed bliss!


Guy´s


I really dont think you can meassure the 3D brightness with just putting the colormeter/spectometer etc. behind the lens off the one glass - more things will go wrong IMO :

1. you just meassure one eye - that´s only the half output ( so the logic must be anyway to double the ( 2 x ) output because off two eyes !? )
2. a meter and and eye dont see / "measure" the same way
3. the lamp pulsing can maybe "trick" the meter ?

I know that cine4home wrote somewhere, that they still researching in a more? correct way to measure it !? ( maybe Eki could comment him self ? )

Anyway one thing I do know is - I trust my eyes ( in this questions anyway biggrin.gif ) more, then some "meters" because I have seen a lot off measurements about my 95ES, thats says it measure higher/ more 3D brightness ( with lamp pulsing technic ) then the 1000ES - wich I happen to have seen in the same place,screen etc ( in my own "cinema" ) and there was NO doubt that the 1000ES was brighter then my projector !! so something about the way we measure must be wrong confused.gif

Unfortunately, I have not even a better suggestion for how we measure it correctly redface.gif so in my opion for now would be to forget the numbers ( just a little wink.gif ) and judge it with your eyes ,if you find it dim or not smile.gif ( when I saw the HW50 showing 3D, it looked very bright and good - FWIW )


dj


BTW. do anybody know, how they measure the 3D brightness i cinema´s with passive systems ?
Edited by d.j. - 12/17/12 at 2:25pm
post #752 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by mac_hs10 View Post

Do these come with any 3d glasses? How do the 50es compare to the 95es? I don't know if its worth it to buy the 95es now.

Mac

I think it depends a lot on what you priority´s are !? for pure 2D, "natural" sharpness/ focus ( meaning no RC, just the lens ), black level, CR, noise, convenience ,no buzzing transmitter, cinemascope screens, and overall quality feel and owner pride wink.gifbiggrin.gif
the 95ES beats the 50

But for 3D, + a little better /less crosstalk, big screens, light output in generel ,good physical exercise when changing formats (wink.gif) and the very good RC and probely the price !? , the 50 beats the 95ES - pick your poison biggrin.gif


dj



BTW. I do own a 95Es, but have seen the very good HW50 too
velvetpoet had some good points too !
Edited by d.j. - 12/17/12 at 2:20pm
post #753 of 3345
dj,

Are we still going to see 95ES V.20 with increased brightness and RC ?
post #754 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagdeepp View Post

Just received my ISCO anamorphic lens.. Friggin awesome! Got rid of the box. A little pincushion - noticeble on PJ menu rather than during any movie playback. Have to say i much prefer the image with a lens in place than zooming out. Whilst the latter is a bonus if you have a lens memory function, the lens simply means less zoom and a more pleasing cinematic experience.
Also discovered the 'blanking' feature. Excellent! Much better than the masking i had on my JVC 350 which would only mask by 2.5 or 5%. This PJ allows masking from either top,bottom, left or right from a scale of 1 - 100! Brilliant! I've managed to clear up the bowing within 5 minutes of putting the lens in front of the PJ. The Isco II is also a dead perfect fit for the Sony's lens. Perfect infact. I know the ISCO II is the ISCO III's poor cousin but to be honest it more than serves its purpose. Less zoom, tider image and I'm now on a full and neat 4mtrs wide! Also pleased to see that the RC feature also works a treat with the lens in place.
Did alot of tweaking last night and realised that the PJ's RC feature is far more blu-ray player friendly than it is HTPC friendly. I've saved a library of movies on my HTPC (ISO files) but find that the RC and/or Darbee performs better with my bluray player. Of course, better video cards etc could make the difference.
Watched a few sequences out of the 'X men The Last Stand' bluray. Slightly grainy in parts but you can really see the detail coming through with RC and Darbee. I'm preferring the RC off with Darbee on with some movies whilst others are great with RC alone. I'm finding that heavilly cgi'd movies are better with Darbee alone whilst animations benefit from RC.
For earlier posters commenting on ghosting, i found that by adjusting the depth under 3d settings you could lose the ghosting totally. -2 was perfect for Sammys adventures.
Enjoy your Pj's chaps.. I'm off to the theatre for some more fun.

Jag,

Have some questions cause I'm also interested in this combination:
How you watch 16:9 material?
What's is your screen dimension?
Do you use a scaler like the lumigen?
What's your seating distance or SW value?
Which gain you use?
How much is the lens and is it motorised?
Any side masking?

That's about it :-). Tia.
post #755 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by mac_hs10 View Post

Do these come with any 3d glasses? How do the 50es compare to the 95es? I don't know if its worth it to buy the 95es now.

2 pairs of 3d glasses.

Its brighter than the 95ES. No lens memory and manual shift/zoom. 95Es is supposed to still have the better blacks but the difference is fairly incremental.
post #756 of 3345
Hey Jagdeepp...finally came out of your cinema room. smile.gif Glad to hear you got the lens and it meets your expectations. Sounds like you've got it all set up already too. Sorry I couldn't sell you mine, but I guess you know why now. wink.gif
post #757 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Hey Jagdeepp...finally came out of your cinema room. smile.gif Glad to hear you got the lens and it meets your expectations. Sounds like you've got it all set up already too. Sorry I couldn't sell you mine, but I guess you know why now. wink.gif

Hi Kelvin. Good to see you here on AVS! Received the lens earlier today. In mint condition. Set it up earlier this evening and just been in there tweaking it a little more. A slight bowing which i've managed to reduce. No visible softening of the image anywhere. Only thing is.. and it may just be a case of getting used to it: motion. PJ seems to be reacting differently with lens in place and vertical stretch. It may just me be.. and probably is! Motion appeared easier on the eye with zoom. Again, it may be me 'looking' for it. In terms of sharpness overall I can see the significant difference picture wise to zooming. Better pixel density and more filmic overall.

I've just enjoyed the second half of Avengers Assemble with the lens in place and vertical stretch. Yes, its a 16:9 movie and i lost some picture but it didnt affect it at all. This is also the first disc where i noticed how well Reality Creation can work. ZERO artefacts. Visibly sharper picture. Seriously impressive. Reference material for me. Most dissapointing transfer so far for me of the recent bunch is the new Batman disc.

Loving the anamorphic lens. Less zoom, sharper picture. Just need to adjust to the motion. Again, as i accept above that may just be me...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash3d View Post

Jag,
Have some questions cause I'm also interested in this combination:
How you watch 16:9 material? Either squeeze image or.. not ideal.. but i've marked out the location of the lens. I just remove it, put it back when done. Alternatively, i watch 16:9 material with vertical stretch and just lose the top and bottom portion of a movie.. it all happens in the centre anyway right?! Honestly, 2nd half of avengers and i was mroe than happy.
What's is your screen dimension? -4mtrs wide 2.40:1 aspect ratio
Do you use a scaler like the lumigen? No, nothing. I watch movies either on the bluray player or my HTPC which has FFD show and other bits of software. A scaler maybe a good idea but currenty budget doesn't permit.
What's your seating distance or SW value? Front row is just over 3 metres from the screen.. Yep, fairly imax! Rear row is 14ft from screen to eye
Which gain you use? 1.4 gain. It's a dulux brilliant matte painted wall. Simple. I've put my carada screen against it and couldn't tell the difference. Honestly. The image has pop and guests so far haven't been able to tell that its not a screen!
How much is the lens and is it motorised? Bought 2nd hand for £950 here in the UK. It's not motorised. I'd imagine a motorised one would cost around 4 times the price. I'm sure this lens can be had cheaper in the US. They are however fairly rare now.
Any side masking? Nope. Don't need it. I have black velvet curtains that i can draw in. Been there, done that and got bored. The black levels are really good. Once a movie is on i get absorbed. I'm not that fussy. As said above though, i'm happy to lose part of the 16:9 image by staying scope.
That's about it :-). Tia.
post #758 of 3345


Here's an image of my theatre for anyone interested in my viewing environment.smile.gif
post #759 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

Are you using both the Sony and Monster glasses together? I believe you got the external 3D emitter from Sony for the buzzing issue. Is there a way to use both of these glasses together with direct connections (i.e. not having to tape the RF to IR emitter of the MV3D to the external Sony emitter? I've read somewhere (perhaps in the MV3D thread) about a custom patch cable that could be used but I don't have any details on the configuration. I'm trying to get rid of my buzzing and be able to use the Sony glasses (for guests) together with the MV3D or the 2nd generation Bit Cauldron glasses (3DNOW/3DVIP RF). I don't have either the external emitter or the RF glasses yet as I'm trying to determine the best course of action with Sony when I call them about the buzzing. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated! Thanks.

I'm using the internal IR emitter on my Sony right now (never hooked up the external one, though I may do so in the future). I just point the MV3D sensor toward the screen & it works fine. In fact when I point it toward the internal IR emitter, for whatever reason it doesn't work.
post #760 of 3345
Jagdeepp, can you post a photo of 16:9 material (like your Avengers) on your 2:40:1 screen? Lovely setup by the way...
post #761 of 3345
when doing this I get indeed an extra setup menu in the hw50 main menu. However, I cannot find a setting where I can change the IR blaster intensity (with the goal to reduce the tweeting sound comming from it)
post #762 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

when doing this I get indeed an extra setup menu in the hw50 main menu. However, I cannot find a setting where I can change the IR blaster intensity (with the goal to reduce the tweeting sound comming from it)

You have to get into the service menu (enter-enter-left-enter). Find the '3D sync emitter strength' (under 'Other') and change it to 1 (default is 0). For me, the lower signal isn't strong enough, so it doesn't work for me.
post #763 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

By studying how these devices work:
It isn't just a question of a little flap that opens or closes according to picture level. There is other processing going on with the signal as well. Otherwise when the scene is dark anything that is brighter than black will look dim, so the processing attempts to maintain the same brightness for those elements of the picture.
Imagine this process in action:
You have a dark black sky, perhaps a camp fire scene, so the ground area may be very dark, so almost black, but you have the flames of the fire and the reflection of the fire on the faces of the people around it. If the iris just closes down because it's a dark scene, then the flames and the faces will get darker too, making them look dull. The near black ground will blend to black too. The electronics increases the contrast (within limits of course) to try to make the flames/faces look as bright as before the iris closes down. Try measuring the gamma of a display (with the iris fixed) and at different contrast settings and guess what? The gamma will measure differently.
Now this won't work for a star scene because the stars might be at peak white and the sky at black, so closing the iris will just lower the black, and also lower the brightness of the stars (the contrast can't go any higher as they are already at peak white). A scene like this is already using the maximum native contrast of the display, so no amount of iris and contrast changing can increase the contrast of this scene. The better iris systems will be able to detect this and won't try to 'fix' what it can't so you won't get pumping of brightness for no gain in contrast.
FWIW I pulled apart my first projector a Panasonic AE1000 and made lots of measurements of the effect the iris had (I only had an i1LT back then but it was still pretty good for measuring gamma if not so accurate for greyscale or colour gamut). I was troubled by the poor dark scene performance and wondered if there was any way to improve it by tweaking and better understanding how it worked. I made many measurements with the dynamic iris enganged, but physically unplugged to see how the image was manipulated. Eventually I moved away from a sequence of dynamic iris AExxxx models as I realised that my preference is for better native contrast that DILA/LCOS can provide, but it was an interesting voyage of discovery.
While the above shouldn't cause a colour shift, in a dark scene the contrast might change such that a 60% part of the image gets boosted to 80% (and the iris closes down to bring the brightness optically back to 60%). It's not unusual for there to be a difference in greyscale between 60% and 80% points especially if the display only has a two point greyscale correction.
I should add that I haven't done these measurements on the 50ES, but the principle is likely to be similar (it's more the algorithms used to decide the iris and contrast boost that differentiates between different projectors as well as the native contrast available). For scenes that don't contain peak whites, then the iris can close down some, the contrast can go up to make the non black areas brighter (up to just under the point of clipping) meaning that the black level goes down, but hopefully the other parts of the image are maintained at the same brightness they should be.

Studying how they work can show you that the image may shift in brightness, not that the image gamma has changed. Regardless of what manipulations have occurred, it's the overall image that must be considered. This is a very important distinction. To state that the image gamma is altered by the dynamic iris (or any accompanying image manipulation), supporting measurements must be presented.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

I don t know with which equipment you measure but I have both the HW50 and VW95 running in my house and both the grayscale and gamma change (quite dramatically) with the iris ON and OFF. You can see this easily with your calibration software with 30 and 80ire patterns.

Are you saying that the grayscale changes from having your iris off versus having it on? Why would that matter as long as you calibrated accurately for your respective mode (either iris off or iris on)? My 95 is calibrated with a very flat 2.22 gamma and very accurate grayscale done in 5% increments (and calibrated primaries and secondaries), and I don't record a grayscale shift when turning the iris on/off. However, I only run in one mode so I don't think I would care if I did. I'd just store another gamma table with the necessary corrections for the other mode.

The only potential reason for any change in grayscale is an uncalibrated projector that's doing as Kelvin described above, but this should not be the case with your machine. Otherwise, I'd say something is wrong. I watch a ton of black and white (Kurosawa, Hitchcock, etc), and such a colour shift would have driven me insane by now. But that's anecdotal.

As for the gamma, HOW are you measuring a gamma change? That's the thrust of my curiosity. You can't measure gamma with a standard window or full-screen IRE pattern using a dynamic iris. This method measures (gamma * scene brightness), and it's impossible to separate the two variables. This is the mistake I most commonly see, which is why I was asking how you made your determination.

You can test such theories either by using or creating a test pattern with a range of IRE values on a single screen (requiring moving the sensor to predefined locations), or by creating a series of pattern-alternating screens that display the same IRE values but in different order (to keep your sensor stationary), and measuring that range with dynamic iris and fixed iris.

I think you'll be surprised by the results.

To those disabling the iris, I think you're really kneecapping the capabilities of this machine. There's no way I would have kept a Sony projector to disable the dynamic iris; I would have switched back to the JVC.

However, to each his own. smile.gif
post #764 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Call them again on the emitter. The lamp issue is being worked on. everybody is still waiting for their lamp.
I've heard (read somewhere) that Sony is not giving external emitters to projectors after a certain serial number because they have fixed the board issue that is causing the buzzing. Does anyone know what that serial number is?
post #765 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

You have to get into the service menu (enter-enter-left-enter). Find the '3D sync emitter strength' (under 'Other') and change it to 1 (default is 0). For me, the lower signal isn't strong enough, so it doesn't work for me.
when I enter-enter-left-enter I get a question if I want to enable the service menu. I can choose YES or NO here. When I choose YES I get no menu but the HW50 just goes in normal mode (with no menu s showed). When I choose the regular menu (button)after that I get an extra menu option at the bottom of the normal HW50 menu but I do not have the option '3D sync emitter strength'.
post #766 of 3345
Jagdeepp, the motion may be different due to using the projector's vertical stretch, time for a Lumagen perhaps? wink.gif Does using the stretch disable or change the motionflow setting perhaps?

FatDave, there are plenty of threads in the calibration section that discuss how dynamic irises can effect gamma and greyscale, so I'm not just making it up. I'm not saying don't use the iris, but just to be aware of this when calibrating. I've long since lost any measurements that I made on my AE1000 so I'm very sorry that for me to comment further my data must be supported. Sorry for the further off topic, but I'll leave it there
post #767 of 3345
Quote:
Are you saying that the grayscale changes from having your iris off versus having it on?
Yes, that is a fact for sure. ALL projectors that have a dynamic iris change both the grayscale and gamma when you enable the dynamic iris. Grayscale is ALWAYS affected by it. Like I said, you can test this by running a grayscale measurement (does not matter at all if you do it in 5% or 10% increments) with the iris ON and OFF. Because the grayscale is changed (this is what the measurement proves) the gamma will also be changed because the grayscale and gamma always work in conjunction.
Quote:
Why would that matter as long as you calibrated accurately for your respective mode (either iris off or iris on)?
You can calibrate your display in a fixed mode with the iris on but the problem comes in when you will actual content.
Quote:
My 95 is calibrated with a very flat 2.22 gamma and very accurate grayscale done in 5% increments (and calibrated primaries and secondaries), and I don't record a grayscale shift when turning the iris on/off
then you have a serious measurement problem. I ve measured quite some VW90s, VW95s and HW50s. ALL show significant grayscale changes when calibrating with the iris ON or OFF.
Quote:
To those disabling the iris, I think you're really kneecapping the capabilities of this machine. There's no way I would have kept a Sony projector to disable the dynamic iris; I would have switched back to the JVC.
However, to each his own. smile.gif
You are of course free to use the dynamic iris but when you want a perfect ISF picture you cannot use the dynamic iris. There are more drawbacks of using the dynamic iris. The biggest drawback for me is that not a single scene will have the same whites and blacks because all scenes have different mixed blacks/whites. Just look at a starry sky. A dynamic iris won t be able to give the white stars a good contrast because the scene is 95% black. When going to a next scene with a lot of whites the white will have a much higher contrast. I defenitaly prefer the same contrast for all scenes so a dynamic iris is a no-go for me just for this reason. The dynamic iris also affects the ansi-contrast which I don t want. The most important reason for me to not use a dynamic iris however is the grayscale and gamma which just don t act good anymore.
post #768 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Yes, that is a fact for sure. ALL projectors that have a dynamic iris change both the grayscale and gamma when you enable the dynamic iris. Grayscale is ALWAYS affected by it. Like I said, you can test this by running a grayscale measurement (does not matter at all if you do it in 5% or 10% increments) with the iris ON and OFF. Because the grayscale is changed (this is what the measurement proves) the gamma will also be changed because the grayscale and gamma always work in conjunction.
You can calibrate your display in a fixed mode with the iris on but the problem comes in when you will actual content.
then you have a serious measurement problem. I ve measured quite some VW90s, VW95s and HW50s. ALL show significant grayscale changes when calibrating with the iris ON or OFF.
You are of course free to use the dynamic iris but when you want a perfect ISF picture you cannot use the dynamic iris. There are more drawbacks of using the dynamic iris. The biggest drawback for me is that not a single scene will have the same whites and blacks because all scenes have different mixed blacks/whites. Just look at a starry sky. A dynamic iris won t be able to give the white stars a good contrast because the scene is 95% black. When going to a next scene with a lot of whites the white will have a much higher contrast. I defenitaly prefer the same contrast for all scenes so a dynamic iris is a no-go for me just for this reason. The dynamic iris also affects the ansi-contrast which I don t want. The most important reason for me to not use a dynamic iris however is the grayscale and gamma which just don t act good anymore.

+1 as another Chromapure user
post #769 of 3345
Hello!

I've been thinking hw30es or hw50es projector for my htpc. Can I get 3D out from my htpc blu-ray and from mkv clips, or is the some restrictions how these sony projectors work with 3D?
post #770 of 3345
Quick question, perhaps for kelvin since he raises it... Could the vertical stretch produced by an external scaler produce better results to a projectors internal 'vertical stretch' ?

Kelvin, your lumagen is £1k+ I only really need a scaler rather than Cms and all that fancy stuff. Do lumagen do a budget model servicing my single requirement ?
post #771 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by anidabi View Post

Hello!
I've been thinking hw30es or hw50es projector for my htpc. Can I get 3D out from my htpc blu-ray and from mkv clips, or is the some restrictions how these sony projectors work with 3D?

Yes you can play mkv's if they are sbs . Play them in your media player and switch the pj over to 3d sbs and bobs your uncle
post #772 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

when I enter-enter-left-enter I get a question if I want to enable the service menu. I can choose YES or NO here. When I choose YES I get no menu but the HW50 just goes in normal mode (with no menu s showed). When I choose the regular menu (button)after that I get an extra menu option at the bottom of the normal HW50 menu but I do not have the option '3D sync emitter strength'.
I got stuck on this too. After choosing yes, go into the menu and you'll now have an option near the bottom called "Device" I think. Then go to "Other" and then I think the emitter is #21. Change it from 0 to 1.

I did this and still heard a buzzing but it was not as loud.
Edited by blipszyc - 12/18/12 at 8:23am
post #773 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjsbuyer View Post

I've heard (read somewhere) that Sony is not giving external emitters to projectors after a certain serial number because they have fixed the board issue that is causing the buzzing. Does anyone know what that serial number is?
I have #231 and they told me I didn't qualify. I'm doing an Advanced Exchange so I'll see which one I get next.
post #774 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by d.j. View Post

Guy´s
I really dont think you can meassure the 3D brightness with just putting the colormeter/spectometer etc. behind the lens off the one glass - more things will go wrong IMO :
1. you just meassure one eye - that´s only the half output ( so the logic must be anyway to double the ( 2 x ) output because off two eyes !? )
2. a meter and and eye dont see / "measure" the same way
3. the lamp pulsing can maybe "trick" the meter ?
I know that cine4home wrote somewhere, that they still researching in a more? correct way to measure it !? ( maybe Eki could comment him self ? )
Anyway one thing I do know is - I trust my eyes ( in this questions anyway biggrin.gif ) more, then some "meters" because I have seen a lot off measurements about my 95ES, thats says it measure higher/ more 3D brightness ( with lamp pulsing technic ) then the 1000ES - wich I happen to have seen in the same place,screen etc ( in my own "cinema" ) and there was NO doubt that the 1000ES was brighter then my projector !! so something about the way we measure must be wrong confused.gif
Unfortunately, I have not even a better suggestion for how we measure it correctly redface.gif so in my opion for now would be to forget the numbers ( just a little wink.gif ) and judge it with your eyes ,if you find it dim or not smile.gif ( when I saw the HW50 showing 3D, it looked very bright and good - FWIW )
dj
BTW. do anybody know, how they measure the 3D brightness i cinema´s with passive systems ?

Many thanks D.J!

I've been told at local forum that in order to get acurate reading (to be used to compare against standard), I should use some "DCI light meter" instead of colormeter, and measure at the seat instead of close to the screen.
He explained this is the way how commercial 3D cinema to measure the brightness as to maintain the lamp.

He tested the HW50 and on a 100 inch 1.0 gain white screen and with glasses set to 3, he got 3.5fL. With glasses set to max, he got 4.5fL which had too much ghosting.
post #775 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagdeepp View Post

Quick question, perhaps for kelvin since he raises it... Could the vertical stretch produced by an external scaler produce better results to a projectors internal 'vertical stretch' ?
Kelvin, your lumagen is £1k+ I only really need a scaler rather than Cms and all that fancy stuff. Do lumagen do a budget model servicing my single requirement ?

But if you bought a Lumagen I'd be able to do an autocal using the full 125 point CMS for you...what's not to like, plus you saved more than that by not buying the X55. wink.gifbiggrin.gif

I have compared the vertical stretch in my old HD350 and the Lumagen using test patterns and watching films: IMHO the Lumagen does a better job than the JVC, so I've stuck to using it, plus it's a neater one touch button selection without going into a menu as the HD350 was. I've no idea if the Sony's V stretch is any better or worse than the JVC and I've not repeated the test with my X35.

The cheaper option is to find a Lumagen HDQ but they have various issues such as being DVI inputs and outputs so you need to use HDMI to DVI cables, 1080/24p input works but only 1080/60i not 1080/60p and thinking about it they aren't 3D compatable, so that's probably out.

The other option might be an Oppo player, but that won't help with the HTPC content.

I could always bring the Mini3D round at some point just for you to try out to see if the motion issue is any better using an external scaler, but have you checked that using it doesn't turn off or change the motionflow setting?

EDIT: Just a thought that perhaps you could confirm the V stretch is the problem by watching with it set to the non stretch mode. The picture will be stretched widthways by the lens but not as tall, but perhaps it might allow you to judge if the motion is better or worse.
post #776 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

I'm using the internal IR emitter on my Sony right now (never hooked up the external one, though I may do so in the future). I just point the MV3D sensor toward the screen & it works fine. In fact when I point it toward the internal IR emitter, for whatever reason it doesn't work.

Thanks for the reply. Are you using both glasses together? Perhaps I'm confused then because I thought the MV3D glasses used the external IR port on the Sony (same as the Sony external emitter thereby bypassing the internal IR emitter)? I only have the pictures of the MV3D to go by and that's what appears to be on the end of the emitter:



As I said, my goal is to use both the Sony and the MV3D glasses at the same time. A byproduct of this setup was to bypass the internal emitter to eliminate the buzz. I still have to try the service menu option but since I'm still in the process of hanging my projector, I'm waiting to test the strength with everything setup in its final location.
post #777 of 3345
unless you build a custom cable for the MV3D transmitter, you will need either the internal IR or the external IR from the Sony to drive the MV3D transmitter. You plug in the IR receiver shown in the photo and aim it at the Sony's IR sender.

You can use both at the same time without a problem.

Also, you will need a microUSB power supply (blackberry charger works fine) to power the transmitter.
post #778 of 3345
Thanks for the reply Zombie. Could you elaborate a little more on the "custom cable" option? What exactly does each end look like? Would I still need a power supply for the transmitter if I go this route? I was hoping to be able to power the MV3D transmitter from the projector (the same as I would the Sony external IR emitter). Is this even possible? Currently, I only have one 12V plug available for the projector and that's actually a recessed pro powerkit from Monoprice.
post #779 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger View Post

dj,
Are we still going to see 95ES V.20 with increased brightness and RC ?


Ranger

No, I dont think so - it was probely wishful rumors and a natural relative logical development to expect if you look at the HW30 to HW50 development.
Im back to think a new model between the 95 and 1000 ( maybe RC, 1700 lumens and 4K wink.gif ) and sadly for the impatient ( like me redface.gif ), I do think, that there are going to go some time, before it arrive ( think year, not month´s )eek.gif

But ofcause this is just me guessing ( but not plucked out of thin air) smile.gif

But sometimes things change along the way, especially in such a fast changing area such as electronics.


dj
post #780 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkasanic View Post

Thanks for the reply Zombie. Could you elaborate a little more on the "custom cable" option? What exactly does each end look like? Would I still need a power supply for the transmitter if I go this route? I was hoping to be able to power the MV3D transmitter from the projector (the same as I would the Sony external IR emitter). Is this even possible? Currently, I only have one 12V plug available for the projector and that's actually a recessed pro powerkit from Monoprice.

Click on the 2nd link in zombie10k's signature labeled JVC / Monster Vision 3D Splitter cable. wink.gif
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