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Official Sony VPL-HW50ES Owners Thread - Page 32

post #931 of 1897
1/10/13 at 8:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony71 View Post

Be sure to turn off the film projection mode in motionflolw menu !

Definitely check this setting. I tried it out to see if it did what it claimed. All it did was drive me crazy with flicker.
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post #932 of 1897
1/10/13 at 9:31pm
Just wondering if anyone in Northern California knows where I can see this projector. I tried calling about 5-6 BB Magnolia stores and they all still show the 30.
Thanks in advance
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post #933 of 1897
1/11/13 at 4:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE-C View Post

Just wondering if anyone in Northern California knows where I can see this projector. I tried calling about 5-6 BB Magnolia stores and they all still show the 30.
Thanks in advance

BB doesn't even carry the HW50. If they did it would likely show on their website before hitting their stores. You're most likely going to have to seek out smaller boutique shops and see if any of them have it. I'm in the same boat here in St. Louis. I can only see the HW30 or RS45 in person. Nobody has the new stuff on display.
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post #934 of 1897
1/11/13 at 4:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE-C View Post

Just wondering if anyone in Northern California knows where I can see this projector. I tried calling about 5-6 BB Magnolia stores and they all still show the 30.
Thanks in advance

Yes, call AVS science. Many of us bought from them and are happy customers. Great price and service.
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post #935 of 1897
1/11/13 at 8:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tallnick View Post

Th
these ones?

These. Playstation. The others you linked (BR250 are very similar to those in the projector box but I'm pretty sure they require a filter kit to work.)
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post #936 of 1897
1/11/13 at 8:45am
I was at a BB that only had the HW30 up and of course the 50 is brighter and has the RC engine, but picture quality and black levels of even the 30 i found to be REALLY nice, it just needed to be a little brighter ( no idea what pic mode they had it on etc.. i think it was a calibrated picture so it will be a little more dim than most.



I was reading another thread where someone was saying LCOS suffers from bright corners which cause the contrast ratio to be different on different units. I wanted to ask you guys if anyone on here who bought the hw50es is having any issues at all with bright corners or any issues at all ?
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post #937 of 1897
1/11/13 at 9:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frohlich View Post

Yes, call AVS science. Many of us bought from them and are happy customers. Great price and service.
Thanks I have purchased 2 projectors from AVS in the past- agree great prices and service. I was wanting to see the projector in action first and am having difficulty finding any place that has it.. I was hoping someone knew of someplace to view it in the SF Bay area.
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post #938 of 1897
1/11/13 at 10:15am
Quote:
Thanks I have purchased 2 projectors from AVS in the past- agree great prices and service.

Heck, I bought 3 projectors and 2 or 3 screens from A V Science before I was assimilated..........like a Home Theater version of The Borg ! eek.gif
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post #939 of 1897
1/11/13 at 11:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mac_hs10 View Post

How can I complain to Sony? Call them? They probably have me send it in and take a quick look and say nothing is wrong. What's wrong with your first projector?

Call Sony Installer Support: 1-866-924-7669

Or email them: installsupport@am.sony.com

They'll probably ask for a video, like they did for me. Here's a Youtube video I uploaded showing flicker (note: Youtube transcoding makes it hard to see the flicker in the latter clips, but it's really evident in the first one): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJcbfPkaMlo

And, yes, 'Film Projection' (Dark Frame Insertion) is most certainly off. DFI is unusable for 24p content unless you 3:2 pulldown it to 60Hz. But I'd rather not since I don't like the motion judder that induces. Off-topic, but one would figure there must be a way to make DFI work with 24p content if it works (barely any visible flicker) with 60p content... if I had a 120Hz signal generator/video card, I'd test this stuff out myself smile.gif

What was wrong with my first projector? Here you go: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1436740/sony-vpl-hw50es-focus-nonuniformity

Cheers!
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post #940 of 1897
1/11/13 at 11:54am
Just hooked up my 50es, thank you AVS for the great price and fast shipping! This replaced an Epson 6010. My first impressions are that I am really going to like this projector and might have found one that satisfies my A/V OCD for a bit! I noticed the screen door effect on the Epson due to my large screen and close seating arrangement, but after watching the Sony I had no idea how bad it was! The image is silky smooth with no indication of spacing between the pixels. I will never go back to LCD! Blacks are about on par with the Epson, and Reality Creation is a definite plus. Especially when paired with my Darbee at low settings.

I think I read through here that someone has ordered a ND filter to further drop the black levels down due to them having a HP screen. Any update on that? I might be interested since I have a HP as well.
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post #941 of 1897
1/11/13 at 12:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksbarnz View Post

...I think I read through here that someone has ordered a ND filter to further drop the black levels down due to them having a HP screen. Any update on that? I might be interested since I have a HP as well.

I tried that with the 30, but found I got better results by adjusting the iris settings in the service menu.

By better results, I mean increased contrast as well as being able to more accurately set the brightness I wanted.

Moving forward, I'd definitely recommend the iris settings tweak over the ND filter.
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post #942 of 1897
1/11/13 at 12:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Dave View Post

I tried that with the 30, but found I got better results by adjusting the iris settings in the service menu.

By better results, I mean increased contrast as well as being able to more accurately set the brightness I wanted.

Moving forward, I'd definitely recommend the iris settings tweak over the ND filter.

Thanks, I'll try different Iris settings over the weekend. Blacks are still really good, I'm just always on the lookout for the little tweak or improvement.
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post #943 of 1897
1/11/13 at 3:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tallnick View Post

Th
these ones?
or
These ones




Absolutly NOT thise ( the TDG-BR250 ) - they are for the Sony TV´s - NOT projectors ( they need additional filters to work with projectors )


dj
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post #944 of 1897
1/11/13 at 3:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjsbuyer View Post

These. Playstation. The others you linked (BR250 are very similar to those in the projector box but I'm pretty sure they require a filter kit to work.)


your right smile.gif

dj
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post #945 of 1897
1/11/13 at 5:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ksbarnz View Post

...I think I read through here that someone has ordered a ND filter to further drop the black levels down due to them having a HP screen. Any update on that? I might be interested since I have a HP as well.

I bought an ND2 filter off of ebay for less than $10 and my projector is about 2' or so above viewing level and I sit about 1 seat off to the side. Having said that the brightness from my viewing position is decreased quite a bit and I'm not sure that tradeoff is worth it. In my setup it does appear that you have to angle the ND2 filter so as not to see reflections. I might toy around with it later but results were not as good as expected. Just my opinion.
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post #946 of 1897
1/12/13 at 1:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by xb1032 View Post

I bought an ND2 filter off of ebay for less than $10 and my projector is about 2' or so above viewing level and I sit about 1 seat off to the side. Having said that the brightness from my viewing position is decreased quite a bit and I'm not sure that tradeoff is worth it. In my setup it does appear that you have to angle the ND2 filter so as not to see reflections. I might toy around with it later but results were not as good as expected. Just my opinion.

It will also degrade sharpness alot.
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post #947 of 1897
1/12/13 at 2:08am
If you are happy with the brightness with the ND2 filter in place, then you need to go out and spend a bit more money than $10 on a decent coated filter. I used to have a Hoya HMC filter which is glass and coated. Like you I tested the idea with a cheap plastic filter first with similar poor results, but it proved the brightness setting was what I wanted back then. You will still lose some ANSI contrast due to reflections, but coating should minimise this and sharpness shouldn't really be effected much at all (it's possibly better than the lens in the projector anyway).

Best option of all though is to close down the manual iris as that's what it's for, but of course you lose out on the dynamic aspect.This was always the nagging doubt I had about chosing the Sony as I really don't need the extra brightness (I'm running with my X35 iris at -15 for 16:9) but as it turned out that the Sony wouldn't fit in my setup (for 2.35:1 use with my lens the image just would have been too big) so I didn't bother getting a demo in the end.
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post #948 of 1897
1/12/13 at 5:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tallnick View Post

Th
these ones?
or
These ones

The first link.
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post #949 of 1897
1/12/13 at 10:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

...Best option of all though is to close down the manual iris as that's what it's for, but of course you lose out on the dynamic aspect.This was always the nagging doubt I had about chosing the Sony as I really don't need the extra brightness (I'm running with my X35 iris at -15 for 16:9) but as it turned out that the Sony wouldn't fit in my setup (for 2.35:1 use with my lens the image just would have been too big) so I didn't bother getting a demo in the end.

To keep the dynamic iris but with smaller apertures, you just close down Iris Open Reg and Iris Close Reg in the service menu to meet your desired brightness target. I did this with my 30 and I'm doing it now with my 95.
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post #950 of 1897
1/12/13 at 11:04am
What Kelvin said. You can't buy a $4k projector & put a $10 ND filter in front of it.

I forget if my HW50 has a filter thread on the lens. If so, get the a B+W multi-coated (MRC) ND filter. B+W filters always have a great multi-layered coat that reduces reflections that would otherwise kill contrast or cause flare. That's my experience with cameras; don't know if it perfectly translates to projectors... as there's a really bright light source behind that lens!

The other advantage of closing the iris a bit is you increase sharpness/focus uniformity.

If you still want the advantages of the dynamic iris, just go into the service menu (Enter-Enter-Left-Enter) and adjust the Iris Open Reg & Iris Close Reg settings. Just cap the 'Open' setting at something relatively low (starts at 659, I believe, and goes up to slightly above 1000) to limit how open the iris will get, and lower the Iris Close Reg number (starts at 375, I think). Note that as you increase the range between Open & Close, you'll start seeing the iris working during viewing.
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post #951 of 1897
1/12/13 at 11:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sarangiman View Post

What Kelvin said. You can't buy a $4k projector & put a $10 ND filter in front of it.

I forget if my HW50 has a filter thread on the lens. If so, get the a B+W multi-coated (MRC) ND filter. B+W filters always have a great multi-layered coat that reduces reflections that would otherwise kill contrast or cause flare. That's my experience with cameras; don't know if it perfectly translates to projectors... as there's a really bright light source behind that lens!

The other advantage of closing the iris a bit is you increase sharpness/focus uniformity.

If you still want the advantages of the dynamic iris, just go into the service menu (Enter-Enter-Left-Enter) and adjust the Iris Open Reg & Iris Close Reg settings. Just cap the 'Open' setting at something relatively low (starts at 659, I believe, and goes up to slightly above 1000) to limit how open the iris will get, and lower the Iris Close Reg number (starts at 375, I think). Note that as you increase the range between Open & Close, you'll start seeing the iris working during viewing.


What are the steps to get to the iris settings after entering service mode? I do the enter enter left enter and get a pop up asking to enter service mode. Where do I go from there?

Edit: Never mind. Found it in the other settings.
Edited by ksbarnz - 1/12/13 at 11:17am
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post #952 of 1897
1/12/13 at 12:44pm
The settings are different with each machine (they're set at the factory), so be sure to write down your factory settings.

I'd try lowering your Iris Open Reg and Iris Close Reg by about 100 or so to start, and tweak away to taste!
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post #953 of 1897
1/12/13 at 10:19pm

#881 of 952
9 days ago
satfam
I just installed my new HW50ES which replaced an Epson 1080UB with only 800 hours. I am throughly impressed! I do have a 3D synch issue. I am sitting about 12' from a 110" Dalite HCCV screen. The glasses won't synch from that distance. If I stand up and walk about 2' feet closer then they synch. Of course the simplest solution is to move the seats closer but that seems too close for normal 2D viewing. Has anyone used the external emitter? If so, do they put out a stronger signal? Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

I got an external emitter installed and it solved the synch problems. It puts out a much stronger signal. But I had to pay for it. I told with a Sony tech and there was no solution other than me buying one to try. Not very helpful.

At least there is a solution.
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post #954 of 1897
1/13/13 at 5:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by satfam View Post


#881 of 952
9 days ago
satfam
I just installed my new HW50ES which replaced an Epson 1080UB with only 800 hours. I am throughly impressed! I do have a 3D synch issue. I am sitting about 12' from a 110" Dalite HCCV screen. The glasses won't synch from that distance. If I stand up and walk about 2' feet closer then they synch. Of course the simplest solution is to move the seats closer but that seems too close for normal 2D viewing. Has anyone used the external emitter? If so, do they put out a stronger signal? Any other suggestions?

Thanks.

I got an external emitter installed and it solved the synch problems. It puts out a much stronger signal. But I had to pay for it. I told with a Sony tech and there was no solution other than me buying one to try. Not very helpful.

At least there is a solution.

Why is Sony behind the times here and not using RF glasses by now?
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post #955 of 1897
1/13/13 at 10:16am
aren't these monster vision glasses with emitter and simple and (reasonably) cheap solution?
the only problem being the emitter needs a usb charger?

anyone know any other RF glasses that will work?
Edited by tallnick - 1/13/13 at 10:23am
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post #956 of 1897
1/13/13 at 11:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tallnick View Post

aren't these monster vision glasses with emitter and simple and (reasonably) cheap solution?
the only problem being the emitter needs a usb charger?

anyone know any other RF glasses that will work?

I have that kit as well, but haven't tried it out yet. Get my projector tomorrow. I read somewhere the optoma glasses work with it. These in particular http://www.amazon.com/OPTOMA-TECHNOLOGY-BG-ZF2100GLS-Shutter-Glasses/dp/B008PQJXFO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1356751288&sr=8-3&keywords=optoma+3d . The optoma emitter also looks like the monster one minus the ir receiver. The monster glasses are not very fancy but they are semi comfortable. I do already have them but for functionality test I'll have to wait a few days.
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post #957 of 1897
1/13/13 at 1:36pm
Does the emitter with those optima glasses work with the hw50es? Own amazon it says "plugs into VESA port on compatible projectors." Is the hw50 a compatible projector?
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post #958 of 1897
1/13/13 at 1:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tallnick View Post

Does the emitter with those optima glasses work with the hw50es? Own amazon it says "plugs into VESA port on compatible projectors." Is the hw50 a compatible projector?

you would have to make a custom cable. The MV3D kit has the IR receiver which works fine with the Sony IR emitter. You just have to power the RF device with a micro-usb charger (blackberry or cell charger is fine)
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post #959 of 1897
1/13/13 at 2:11pm
And the mv3d glasses look pretty good through the glasses?
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post #960 of 1897
1/13/13 at 2:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by satfam View Post


...I got an external emitter installed and it solved the synch problems. It puts out a much stronger signal. But I had to pay for it. I told with a Sony tech and there was no solution other than me buying one to try. Not very helpful.

At least there is a solution.

My internal emitter was working VERY poorly as well but thanks to AVS they contacted Sony and had a new external IR emitter sent to me and I did some testing and we finally watched a 3D movie last night and no sync issues so it appears the issue has been solved. Worked well with the included Sony glasses as well as the Xpands. The Xpands are a little more confortable but straight out of the box the Xpands have an obvious yellowish tone to them as mentioned before.
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