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Final LV wiring sanity check...

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
I'm wrapping up my wiriing and wanted to just run a quick sanity check by the group to make sure I've caught everything before my drywallers seal everything up. In addition to conduit to my front, rear and PJ locations, here's what I've got "naked":

  • 2 runs each to Front Left, Center, Front Right - Probably won't bi-wire or bi-amp, so I can use extra runs for other channels if I want to go more than 7.
  • 1 run each to Side right and left, and Rear right and left.
  • 1 run RG6 to each corner for possible Sub placement
  • 1 HDMI from closet to PJ
  • 1 run Component cables (3 RG6) from closet to PJ - for legacy connections
  • 2 runs Cat6 from closet to front - for IR and Wii bar and future expansion
  • 1 run Cat6 from closet to PJ

While I've got the ceiling and walls open, anything else I should throw in?
post #2 of 13
I would do a few more runs of Cat6 to the PJ for future proofing if needed. (hdmi over cat6 etc)
post #3 of 13
If the conduit is big enough for HMDI cables, you're probably OK. I would consider a redundant HDMI cable - have you checked the cables (especially HDMI) to ensure they work with your stuff? Wouldn't want to have broken cables before you even start.

Edit - I am planning for more than 4 sub locations myself.
post #4 of 13
A couple of the builds I've worked on had conduits to the front of the riser to connect whatever laptop or gaming device that might come along that the owners might want to hardwire to the equipment stack.
Thermostat for theater zone?
Wire for security device
Smoke alarm
The last project had a Cat6 wire to the light switch box to connect the Creston Master unit to the Creston light control.
post #5 of 13
Here is my LV diagram that's in my thread.

wiringplans-1.jpg

Few others i saved.

Mcascio

Wiring--Electric-Plan.jpg

Other

Visio-Wiring-Design.jpg
post #6 of 13
Looks good - you covered all the things I wired for or cared about. Only input I'd have is put a switch height cat5, buried near the entrance, for a future control panel or dock. And maybe one more Cat6 to the front so you have two for any future 120" flat panel. smile.gif.

Jeff
post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

A couple of the builds I've worked on had conduits to the front of the riser to connect whatever laptop or gaming device that might come along that the owners might want to hardwire to the equipment stack.
Thermostat for theater zone?
Wire for security device
Smoke alarm
The last project had a Cat6 wire to the light switch box to connect the Creston Master unit to the Creston light control.
Thanks for all the input.

I had gone to the trouble of wiring comp., cat5, and hdmi to the front of the riser in my first theater and never used them, so I'm going to pass on those this time around. Will probably run a couple more Cat6 per the suggestions even though I know most things are going wi-fi.
post #8 of 13
Just when you don't wire the riser, Play Station 5 will have some feature that will make you wish you did.
post #9 of 13
Maybe I'm missing something. Why would you want conduit and wire to the riser to help future proof? Who would want their PS5 on the riser for example? I would think that would sit in the rack.
post #10 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Maybe I'm missing something. Why would you want conduit and wire to the riser to help future proof? Who would want their PS5 on the riser for example? I would think that would sit in the rack.

You never now with new technology but I suppose the more common application is an HDMI cable or something to the riser so you could run a laptop or other device. If you can add the conduit I say why not - much easier than ripping walls apart later
post #11 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Maybe I'm missing something. Why would you want conduit and wire to the riser to help future proof? Who would want their PS5 on the riser for example? I would think that would sit in the rack.

I'm not talking about a game system, I'm thinking about laptops and other handhelds. Also corded game controllers. Granted that most things are wireless but for pure speed you may want a hard connection. Perhaps you will want to play some 4K videos from your 5th generation Ipad on the big screen and still have the Ipad in your lap.
post #12 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I'm not talking about a game system, I'm thinking about laptops and other handhelds. Also corded game controllers. Granted that most things are wireless but for pure speed you may want a hard connection. Perhaps you will want to play some 4K videos from your 5th generation Ipad on the big screen and still have the Ipad in your lap.

I think it depends a lot on the kind of person you are. I used an HDMI connection in my riser for a laptop before. Now that I have an HTPC I don't necessarily need to do it. But I have done it. I also had a USB wired to the riser before in order to use a wired controler to a console before. You don't even have to run wires, just having the conduit there so you CAN do it some day is very useful. There are so many places in my house I wish I had conduit to for new wires. It's not like it is expensive or that time consuming to do.
post #13 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I'm not talking about a game system, I'm thinking about laptops and other handhelds. Also corded game controllers. Granted that most things are wireless but for pure speed you may want a hard connection. Perhaps you will want to play some 4K videos from your 5th generation Ipad on the big screen and still have the Ipad in your lap.
Actually, I'm going to add a couple extra outlets to the front of the riser for game controllers. Don't need to hardwire them back the game system, but they always need charging. smile.gif As for iPad or whatever, you should really looking to AirPlay or DLNA streaming - it's pretty amazing what these little guys can do wirelessly. As for plain old conduit to the riser - I'll see if I have room. I have an LVL that I have to go around and the hole for the first conduit was just big enough for the one. Perhaps I can tie into that one somehow.
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