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1st time HTPC builder needing TLC

post #1 of 59
10/12/12 at 4:13pm
Thread Starter 
I bought a unit for my first HTPC see thread http://www.avsforum.com/t/1433303/bought-new-pc-instead-of-bulding-comments

After yall's kind comments I decided to build.

Bought this today:
Giga B75-D3H http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4315#ov
AND
i3-3225
for $158.98 with tax.

Also bought this case for $12.68 with tax:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811145004
OK, I know it is silver and old(er).

So now I need to get the rest of the stuff.

Suggestions?

I've tinkered with PCs since the days of 8080 and 286s etc and MS-DOS and WFWG but never actually built one.
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post #2 of 59
10/12/12 at 5:02pm
You're going to need memory. your board supports DDR3 1600/1333/1066 MHz memory modules. Should be easy to find on newegg. While you're shopping, drives would be good. Most folks on this forum are big fans of SSD (solid state) drives. Pick up one SSD (120Gb or better) for your operating system and a larger (traditional) SATA drive for your data (500Gb or better.. as close to 1Tb as your budget allows). And, you'll probably want to think about a DVD drive. Blu-ray if that's your intent.

Then, it's just a matter of assembling all the pieces into the case. If you've built computers back "in the day", you've got the skills you need. Much easier nowadays though.. no jumpers to screw around with, no conflicts, plug & play. First thing you should do is step carefully through all the BIOS options and understand what they do (but you know that).

If you intend this to be a home theater PC, there are a few more pieces to consider (remote control, wireless keyboard/mouse, etc).. but one disaster at a time.

A few suggestions:

SSD Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820239374

Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236070

Memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820239060

Keep us posted.
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post #3 of 59
10/12/12 at 7:10pm
I'd get a H77M-D3H - one extra SATA_3 port and a Samsung 830 128GB SSD instead of that Kingston. Its much faster.
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post #4 of 59
10/12/12 at 7:13pm
I agree, go SSD. It is the single biggest improvement I have ever made to my HTPC, and I have been building them for about 6 yrs now. I only have a 64gb SDD, so if your budget is tight it will do, but as ajkrishock get a 120gb or greater if you can. I would also suggest getting a remote, it really adds to the whole experience, something like this is only about $15 USD. Use this forum for all your questions, if you search and can't find an answer, ask, someone here will be able to help.

Also, probably more then you are asking for at the moment but look into mediabrowser. Its free and really makes your movie/TV collections stand out.
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post #5 of 59
10/12/12 at 8:58pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I'd get a H77M-D3H - one extra SATA_3 port and a Samsung 830 128GB SSD instead of that Kingston. Its much faster.

I can see you recommending for the H77 because of the B75 only has 1 6gb port and the H77 has 2.
The store didn't have any H77. They had Z77 at a final price $30 more than the B75. Didn't think about the SSD needing a port and the 1T HDD needing one. Hummm..... May rethink that one. But, then again, I had not planned on a SSD since there is some consensus here that the SSD has minimal speed difference in a HTPC box..

I have a new 60GB SSD but the conversation (here in AVS) of it being overworked to keep the even wear valid points to a 128GB size. Don't remember the Kingston being mentioned around AVS very much.
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post #6 of 59
10/12/12 at 9:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterBoyz View Post

I can see you recommending for the H77 because of the B75 only has 1 6gb port and the H77 has 2.
The store didn't have any H77. They had Z77 at a final price $30 more than the B75. Didn't think about the SSD needing a port and the 1T HDD needing one. Hummm..... May rethink that one. But, then again, I had not planned on a SSD since there is some consensus here that the SSD has minimal speed difference in a HTPC box..
I have a new 60GB SSD but the conversation (here in AVS) of it being overworked to keep the even wear valid points to a 128GB size. Don't remember the Kingston being mentioned around AVS very much.

A 60GB SSD will not be "overworked". That's rubbish.
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post #7 of 59
10/12/12 at 9:06pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajkrishock View Post

You're going to need memory. your board supports DDR3 1600/1333/1066 MHz memory modules. Should be easy to find on newegg. While you're shopping, drives would be good. Most folks on this forum are big fans of SSD (solid state) drives. Pick up one SSD (120Gb or better) for your operating system and a larger (traditional) SATA drive for your data (500Gb or better.. as close to 1Tb as your budget allows). And, you'll probably want to think about a DVD drive. Blu-ray if that's your intent.
Then, it's just a matter of assembling all the pieces into the case. If you've built computers back "in the day", you've got the skills you need. Much easier nowadays though.. no jumpers to screw around with, no conflicts, plug & play. First thing you should do is step carefully through all the BIOS options and understand what they do (but you know that).
If you intend this to be a home theater PC, there are a few more pieces to consider (remote control, wireless keyboard/mouse, etc).. but one disaster at a time.
A few suggestions:
SSD Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820239374
Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236070
Memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820239060
Keep us posted.

WHy did you recommend 4 sticks (4x2) as compared to 2 sticks (2x4)?

Glad you mentioned the WD HDD brand. That is pretty much the only brand I consider.

No immediate plan for Blu-Ray or DVD player ... yet.

Edited by WaterBoyz - 10/12/12 at 9:16pm
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post #8 of 59
10/12/12 at 9:15pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by assassin View Post

A 60GB SSD will not be "overworked". That's rubbish.

This is what I got for $30.

Someone mentioned to go to their blog/forum for tips and tricks to enhance the speed. I've not been there yet so I'm not sure if that suggestion is valid yet.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/398376/Vertex_Plus_R2_Series_Series_60GB_SATA_3Gb-s_25_Solid_State_Drive_%28SSD%29

P.S.
Assassin, do you ever sleep? I see you all over this place.

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post #9 of 59
10/12/12 at 9:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterBoyz View Post

This is what I got for $30.
Someone mentioned to go to their blog/forum for tips and tricks to enhance the speed. I've not been there yet so I'm not sure if that suggestion is valid yet.
http://www.microcenter.com/product/398376/Vertex_Plus_R2_Series_Series_60GB_SATA_3Gb-s_25_Solid_State_Drive_%28SSD%29
P.S.
Assassin, do you ever sleep? I see you all over this place.

You don't need any of those tips and tricks. Not needed and will likely cause more problems than not.

No, I never sleep. I am a workaholic.

PS - I am also the Moderator at the HTPC Forum at Anandtech. Keeps me on my toes.
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post #10 of 59
10/12/12 at 9:32pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by assassin View Post

You don't need any of those tips and tricks. Not needed and will likely cause more problems than not.
No, I never sleep. I am a workaholic.
PS - I am also the Moderator at the HTPC Forum at Anandtech. Keeps me on my toes.

Yea, kinda hard to fall asleep while being "on point".

While you are here I also need W7.
I've seen Home Premium 64 OEM version and RETAIL version.
I'm guessing the OEM is the one to get.
Somewhere I saw a 3- license pack that was around $175 but could not locate the website readily.
W8 is waaaaaaaay into the future since I usually give new software 12-18 months of real time before I even think about it.
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post #11 of 59
10/12/12 at 10:13pm
The OEM version of Win 7 can only be used on one particular PC. Its tied to its motherboard. If you want to use it elsewhere you'll need to call Microsoft and plead your case. That or tell them the old mobo died and you are buying a new one and need to reuse the licence. They'll usually give you a new key on the spot.

The difference between the B75M and H77M is that the H77 has a better audio codec (marginally, but still), an extra 2 USB 2 ports and an extra SATA_3 port. I'd say its worth it although if you've got the B75 then all that is irrelevant.

Finally, that case has a rather poor PSU, I wouldn't rely on it to efficiently power any parts you buy.
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post #12 of 59
10/13/12 at 12:57pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiddles88 View Post

I'd get a H77M-D3H - one extra SATA_3 port and a Samsung 830 128GB SSD instead of that Kingston. Its much faster.

Looks I'll swap out the B75 for GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP Micro Center doesn't have the H77 board.
For the $30 difference and since I plan on using my Vertex Plus R2. Sale ends 10/14/12.

Oh wait, that SSD is only SATA II (3gb/s).

Hummmmm.........now what?

If I keep the B75 and run the SSD on the SATA II for the W7 and the HDD 1T on the SATA III then what?
Splitting nanoseconds?
Splitting minutes?

$30 bucks for an additional SATA III may not be worth it.

Micro Center and NewEgg have SATA III as low as $60 for 60Gb.

That is why I am here to pick your brains full of experiences.

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post #13 of 59
10/13/12 at 1:01pm
A SATA_2 SSD isn't that fast and that Vertex is a fairly slow model. I'd stick with the B75 then although I'd take the H77 over it if its available.
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post #14 of 59
10/13/12 at 2:40pm
I have a SATA II SSD in my HTPC and it is pretty fast.. Much faster than the HDD it replaced. That said, if I were buying now rather than 18 months ago, I'd go with the SATA III for sure. It won't be money wasted in this case.
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post #15 of 59
10/13/12 at 3:48pm
You don't need SATA 3 for the mechanical drive. It won't make a bit of difference if it's SATA 3 or SATA 2. Probably wouldn't make much if any difference if it was SATA 1. Spinners just aren't fast enough. If an extra SATA 3 port was the only reason to get the more expensive board, don't. If you just want a nicer board then go ahead.
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post #16 of 59
10/13/12 at 4:30pm
WaterBoyz. I have completed a similar build. Same processor/mb, Sentry 2420 case/ps(250w actual), old micro center 64gb sata II ssd, 8gb gskill 1600 ram. I have other computers with the os's on sata III SSD's and I see no real world differences. Besides this is a HTPC. I use external drives for my entertainment. What have you purchased so far? From what I can tell you have the hardware already.
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post #17 of 59
10/13/12 at 7:53pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiddles88 View Post

A SATA_2 SSD isn't that fast and that Vertex is a fairly slow model. I'd stick with the B75 then although I'd take the H77 over it if its available.

Looks like I'll be staying with the B75.
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post #18 of 59
10/13/12 at 7:55pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy2 View Post

I have a SATA II SSD in my HTPC and it is pretty fast.. Much faster than the HDD it replaced. That said, if I were buying now rather than 18 months ago, I'd go with the SATA III for sure. It won't be money wasted in this case.

Looks like Vertex ($30) on SATA III and HDD on SATA II.
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post #19 of 59
10/13/12 at 8:15pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by khcv63 View Post

WaterBoyz. I have completed a similar build. Same processor/mb, Sentry 2420 case/ps(250w actual), old micro center 64gb sata II ssd, 8gb gskill 1600 ram. I have other computers with the os's on sata III SSD's and I see no real world differences. Besides this is a HTPC. I use external drives for my entertainment. What have you purchased so far? From what I can tell you have the hardware already.

All I have so far is:
CPU
Motherboard
SSD
Case

I know I have to replace the power supply than came in the case.

Need:
Memory
Power Supply
HDD
W7
Fans for the case
Remote
HDMI cable
Over-the-air tuner
Cable card tuner

I was looking at the Harmony's.
WOW
Budget busters for sure.

Was looking at the Homerun Prime for cable card.

Not sure for OTA card or box.

I forgot to say that this is a no-gamer HTPC.

Oh yea, I have not even thought what I will do for the bedroom TV. Right now it has the Comcast box without DVR. I never watch that TV. Mrs WaterBoyz listens/watches the news in the AM when getting ready and some TV at night prior to following asleep. Usually watching the last 15 minutes of whatever show she was watching in the living room. I watch about an hour or 2 a week of TV. Eventually I want to cut the TV cable-cord.

Thanks for everybody's input.
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post #20 of 59
10/13/12 at 8:36pm
Quote:
I know I have to replace the power supply than came in the case.
Not necessarily. I used pretty much the same components (http://www.avsforum.com/t/1428437/new-3225-build-need-to-order-by-midnight-tomorrow/0_40) and running a full load only measured about a 70 watt draw from the wall. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1426856/ivy-bridge-i3-cpus-seen-in-the-wild/0_40#post_22438236
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post #21 of 59
10/13/12 at 8:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by olyteddy View Post

Not necessarily. I used pretty much the same components (http://www.avsforum.com/t/1428437/new-3225-build-need-to-order-by-midnight-tomorrow/0_40) and running a full load only measured about a 70 watt draw from the wall. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1426856/ivy-bridge-i3-cpus-seen-in-the-wild/0_40#post_22438236

Not the quality though. If there any spikes or surges I'm fairly certain that PSU will blow. I doubt it will last as long as a decent PSU too. I'd get a Corsair Cx 430 v2 for $20 after rebate or a Seasonic S12 430B if you want to spend a bit more.
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post #22 of 59
10/17/12 at 7:45am
Thread Starter 
Well, looks like I need to look for a PSU that is small.
OR
Buy another case.
But it has to be way less than $75.

OEM PSU measures 3.95x2.53x4.92


Standard issue PSU
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post #23 of 59
10/17/12 at 10:28am
This is what your power supply looks like. It's model number LP6100A.

LP6100A-unit.jpg

This is an SFX12V power supply, not an ATX/PS2 power supply.

This is a very good replacement: FSP Group FSP300-60GHS(85) 300W SFX12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply - OEM
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post #24 of 59
10/18/12 at 3:13pm
Thread Starter 
Ordered this unit.
Thanks StarDog for your research/knowledge.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104075

My current OEM unit is 3.95x2.53x4.92 and this fits.

Onto other items to buy.
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post #25 of 59
10/20/12 at 11:56am
Thread Starter 
I'm onto buying memory.

What a world of confusion.

My m/board is Gigabyte B75M-D3H with i3-3225

DDR3 @ 1.5V
1600
1333
1066

Supports Extreme Memory Profile (EMP) whatever that is.

I'm just looking for a kit of 2 sticks of 4GB for a total of 8GB.

I go to Gigabyte site and search for memory modules and I find a "partial listing" list.
I go to some of the major memory websites and my MB is not even listed or the chipset (B75) is not listed.
Some sites just list the 1333 and not 1600.
Some sites list a latency of only 11. (I'd like a 9 just so I can brag to the Mrs and her friends. Ha Ha)

My question is should I just buy the memory based on the known facts of DDR3 1600 1.5V and ignore compatibility?

Will I notice the difference between 1600 and 1333?
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post #26 of 59
10/20/12 at 12:36pm
Get a 1600MHz Crucial kit at Cas 8 if you want great memory. You can order direct off their website.
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post #27 of 59
10/21/12 at 5:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterBoyz View Post

I'm onto buying memory.
What a world of confusion.
My m/board is Gigabyte B75M-D3H with i3-3225
DDR3 @ 1.5V
1600
1333
1066
Supports Extreme Memory Profile (EMP) whatever that is.
I'm just looking for a kit of 2 sticks of 4GB for a total of 8GB.
I go to Gigabyte site and search for memory modules and I find a "partial listing" list.
I go to some of the major memory websites and my MB is not even listed or the chipset (B75) is not listed.
Some sites just list the 1333 and not 1600.
Some sites list a latency of only 11. (I'd like a 9 just so I can brag to the Mrs and her friends. Ha Ha)
My question is should I just buy the memory based on the known facts of DDR3 1600 1.5V and ignore compatibility?
Will I notice the difference between 1600 and 1333?

I have never worried about the compatibility charts of MB vendors and have never had any issues . However , I don't make it a practice of buying cheap / no name ram either . Gskill , Mushkin , Crucial , Corsair are all great ram . Cas 9 1600 Mhz is more than fine. There's not a ton of diff between 1333 and 1600 mhz but there is also no or little price diff either so why not and you do get a slight boost . Just fyi but the lower the cas latency number , the lower the latency or delay wink.gif
Edited by flocko - 10/21/12 at 5:33am
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post #28 of 59
10/21/12 at 4:42pm
Thread Starter 
All ritee then, I spent more money.

Got this HDD: Western Digital WD Green WD20EARX 2TB 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"
Got this Memory
Got this Fan times 3

$109.99
$39.99
$9.84
$2.99 shipping
======
$162.81


So what's next? ... remote and a cablecard device and ???
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post #29 of 59
10/21/12 at 6:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaterBoyz View Post

Ordered this unit.
Thanks StarDog for your research/knowledge.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104075
My current OEM unit is 3.95x2.53x4.92 and this fits.
Onto other items to buy.

Ok, but one I pointed you at had a higher level of 80+ certification (Bronze instead of Plus) and it was $5 cheaper. frown.gif
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post #30 of 59
10/21/12 at 6:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajkrishock View Post

You're going to need memory. your board supports DDR3 1600/1333/1066 MHz memory modules. Should be easy to find on newegg. While you're shopping, drives would be good. Most folks on this forum are big fans of SSD (solid state) drives. Pick up one SSD (120Gb or better) for your operating system and a larger (traditional) SATA drive for your data (500Gb or better.. as close to 1Tb as your budget allows). And, you'll probably want to think about a DVD drive. Blu-ray if that's your intent.
Then, it's just a matter of assembling all the pieces into the case. If you've built computers back "in the day", you've got the skills you need. Much easier nowadays though.. no jumpers to screw around with, no conflicts, plug & play. First thing you should do is step carefully through all the BIOS options and understand what they do (but you know that).
If you intend this to be a home theater PC, there are a few more pieces to consider (remote control, wireless keyboard/mouse, etc).. but one disaster at a time.
A few suggestions:
SSD Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820239374
Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236070
Memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820239060
Keep us posted.

I've got to ask. I understand why folks would want to use an SSD for the OS makes sense. But if Winows 7 for example is only about 30GBs wouldn't a 120 be a bit much. I guess my question is being I green with all of this, what else other than the OS should one place on the SSD for better performance.
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