I'm a newbie and will have some stupid questions....this is one.

grats on the projector.. i read thru some of your other posts. i think you'll be happy.

by the manual, the offset (height above of below screen) is12%.. other s have posted it's 13.2%. if your screen is 48" high, that means the center of the lens will be 48 x .132= 6.33 inches above the top of your screen.

You don;t say how low your celigns are, or how low your mount is but with 7' celings and 1" total drop from the mount.. that puts the top of the screen at 5'6" and the bottom at 18"

if that doesnt; work for you.. you could use the (auto) keystoning.. basically it distorts the image into a trapezoid so that when you tilt the projector to the ceiling, im image is square again. you lose some resolution and brightness. you will also have grey triangles visible on the wall, if you don;t use masking.

try it out and see if you can live with it. the only other option is to mod your mounting plate to maybe get a 6" total drop from the ceiling, if you think its worth the trouble. good luck.

the smallest image from 16' is 142" (70" tall) no wonder it's a foot off the floor. or am i misunderstanding something?

you use the projector pro calculator? for some reason it doesn;t have the offset or it would calculate that too.
if the projector lens is exactly 12'.. that gives you a vertical range of 48 (great for homebuitl screen) to 52 (98-107 diagonal) 100 and 106 are standard screen sizes so you have that option later on. just remember the screen will come out from the wall 1"

i've used that monoprice mount.. had trouble getting it not to sag as theres no easy way to tighten the ball joint, especially with heavy wires on a small projector. but it works pretty good for drop ceilings because you can but a 2" notch in the edge of a tile, and all the wires get routed internally. the top of the mount then gets attached to a 2x6 with a hole thru the top between the joists. really, with 8' ceilings you should be good. there is code about putting wires above ceiling tile so... you know.

as long as you keep the lens 7', the bottom of the screen will be 3'

use some blue painters tape to mark the level and plumb lines on the wall. the H5360 even has an alignment grid built in if you get the menu with no input. anyway, don;t worry about placing the image in a specific spot since you are on a wall. just make sure it's perfectly square, level and centered. it helps to have somebody actually measuring the sides of each image to the 1/8 for this and checking focus in all 4 corners.



hope this helps
Edited by DragonSixGolf - 10/14/12 at 2:27pm

even flat black paint reflects.. no way around it. i'm not a big fan of black borders anyway, it just makes the black level of the projector look more gray by comparison. i actually suspend my screen in front of a lit, neutral wall..and keep adjusting til it's accurate to the pixel. blacks actually appear blacker and it looks like a floating window ..

anway, you cant do that on a wall so if you want a border, consider wrapping rounded door casing with a neutral dark grey cloth. you actually have an advantage because you can install it at the edge of the image, and even if it isn;t square, it will still look perfect.

im only mentioningthis because of the expense effort and difficulty of leveling, priming, painting, framing a painted screen than you can;t adjust or move but have you considered a screen?

http://www.amazon.com/Elite-Screens-M109UWX-Manual-Projection/dp/B005TFUUR4/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1350250695&sr=1-10&keywords=elite+manual+screen

i can;t speak to the quality but nice gain, concealable or even removable if you want..and a lot less work. just an idea to consider.
Edited by DragonSixGolf - 10/14/12 at 2:49pm