Originally Posted by LTD02
that's not where i was going james. i was just a little surprised that is what he said.
if you drive a ferrari and live in a malibu mansion, i'll go along with the sub2 idea...in multiples. :-)
If you drive a Ferrari and live in a malibu mansion, just get a Thigpen Rotary sub and end it there
Originally Posted by datranz
You will not spend less with DIY, I repeat, you will not save with DIY, you just get more performance, and then upgrade, rinse, repeat.
I believe you get more performance for less, then you upgrade (or add more), again for less. Who says commercial buyers don't upgrade? And when they do , they more than likely sell the old stuff for a large loss...
Originally Posted by datranz
what i am trying to say is once you start diy, and sees its plus side (no restrains such as size and tuning and eq). you will want to out do yourself over and over again. onto my third reiterations from 10"s to 15"s, now 18"s. when will it end?
LOL! I am sanding my 2nd DIY now, and have another in the hopper!
Originally Posted by mjaudio
I personally never use t-nuts anymore, there a pain in the a$$, I just drill a pilot hole and use wood screws to mount the drivers. Make sure you seal the driver well like beast mentions and you will want to use a speaker gasket like this: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-542
you can also use weatherstripping from your local hardware store but they generally don't have the same adhesive strength the one I just linked to does but it is not a huge difference.
T-nuts are definitely not the best choice for MDF. Hurricane nuts are most likely the better choice. I use threaded inserts since they come with my kits and I use gorilla glue with them. As for the comment about the weatherstrip from local hardware store, I disagree. My drivers and PRs are REAAAALLY stuck on there with closed-cell weatherstrip. I had to pry them off slowly with a lot of force. (3/8" wide, 1/4" thick)
Originally Posted by doodoobutter
Haha. I can assure you, that you have never heard anything like that driver. Since you are going the diy route, do you have your plans for your box finalized? We can help you model with the software.
Some tips for building. It looks like you're going the sealed route. Someone can jump in and correct me if they have tips better than mine. When you go to put your panels together, it's easiest to lay down your line of pl construction adhesive pretty thick, you can always wipe away the excess later. Secure glued panels together with clamps. Then predrill the holes for the screws, using a step bit so that the holes are recessed. Then screw the piece together. It's as simple as that. Once it's all put together, bondo works great for filling the holes. Then sand the bondo and any irregularities. Then you can prime and paint.That's the absolute most simple way
. Some people really want that retail quality finish. They sand and paint and sand and paint to get it really shiny. If you want to put in the time and do some reading, you can get a really good finish. I personally like the look of a stain finish on decent quality plywood. I'm sure you've already been reading up on this stuff extensively though, haven't you?
Since you have decided on something, please feel free to ask as many questions as you want, to finalize your design.
The simple way and proven as well!! You don't even need screws, as long as you have the patience to wait a day between each panel (for the glue to dry). No priming needed if you use Duratex as well, which also does a good job at hiding imperfections.